So, I've been lurking the past couple months since I bought my clubman. But the past week I've been having some startup/idling issues. I searched around a while but didn't find anything that really seemed to point me in the right direction (it seems most of the threads are specific to the S models, and the HPFP).

Upon starting (definitely cold starts, I feel like it does it with warm starts too) sometimes the engine just stalls immediately unless I give it a little gas to lift the RPMs up.

After starting (whether or not it's warmed up), when the car is either in neutral or the clutch is disengaged, the idle will dip. If the car is rolling, then the idle generally recovers. But once I come to a stop it seems that MOST of the time the idle will drop below 400 and stall.

When the car is actually moving, however, there is no noticeable symptom. This leads me to believe that its NOT a vacuum leak (or the MAF sensor), since I would think that the car would perform noticeably different.

I do not have any CEL coming on. Anybody have any ideas? The only lead I've had so far is the T-MAP sensor, but I haven't convinced myself that that's the problem enough to go drop the money.

 

Just because there is no CEL, have you scanned the ECU for faults?
There can be faults present without the CEL illuminating.

- Erik

 

My cheapo scanner said there were no codes. Should I take it to a shop to have one of the nice OBD-II scanners read it? I know those say all sorts of information.

 

Definitely; see what an approved MINI-protocol scanner reports back with.

- Erik

 

Does that mean a MINI dealer? Or should a regular shop be fine? I ask because I have a buddy that works at a regular shop. I'm not trying to have the local mini dealership rob me just to read the code.

 

No, it doesn't mean only a dealer; some independent shops purchase scanners that read different platforms.
An independent MINI shop should have the appropriate equipment, like a Bavarian Technic scanner or equivilent.

Head over and see what they have; if you do scan there, grab the manufacturer and model of their scanner as a reference.

- Erik

 

*bumpity bump bump... bump*

My 2009 R55 non-S has been screwy with idle on startup since we bought it at 68k miles (now 75k), always stabilized and the dealers serviced it 4 times without a mention. In the last few days it refused to restart after refueling, until I stepped into the throttle and it picked up - then didn't want to idle.

I'm 4 hours one way from a MINI dealer, and don't have a clue as to who works on MINI's anywhere near the middle of Missouri.

The day after the first trouble starting - cranked fine and caught when I stepped on it - I get a warning "close fuel cap" - and it was closed. I checked it, removed it, closed it again, and no more warning. Car ran fine at speed, no issues, and usually idled 98% of the time.

Today I get a check engine warning, CEL light remains on the speedo, and it's idling up around 1,200rpm.

I'm thinking vacuum leak. I replaced the 7k mile Mann air filter with a K&N (just because it was dirty), looked around under the hood (no room in the garage yet as we just moved), and noticed a few things.

1) slight coolant smell
2) coolant level just below the MIN line when at operating temp
3) nothing else remarkable whatsoever

So, like most modern emissions crazy cars, I'll probably replace the fuel cap first - it looks like it's got a vapor valve in it. Then I'll see why my coolant level is lower than normal (not usually a GOOD SIGN at all). I seriously love this car, and I'll do what it takes to keep her running right :-D

And tonight I get to see if I can make my MATCO MD9000 OBD-II Scanner "MINI-compliant" - we'll see.

 

Problem with my '10 Justa seems identical to OP. Picking up the car at dealer this AM after they replaced the DME. +- $2000 item. Will let you all know if this does it.

 

If that's the first time you've topped off a little bit with coolant I wouldn't worry about it. A little bit will evaporate over a long period of time.

 

Certainly glad the car is still under warranty. Car stabilizes now as throttle lets up and revs drop to around 1000 rpm and not much further. In addition to the dme, two solenoids were replaced.

 

What's a DME? *yikes*

 

I have no idea whether the coolant has been touched, but this car has been serviced by MINI dealers in both Atlanta, GA and Florida. I thought I got a whiff of coolant opening the hood the other day, and without a water temp indicator (?!!) I'm hoping my code scanner (Matco MD9000) will read the temp for me.

Talked to a MINI tech about 4 hours away, he'll help via email. I'm hoping it's a fuel cap to fix the stalling, and a thermostat fixes this engine code. And that the two weren't in any way related. :-)

Thanks for the help friends!

 

Digital Motor Electrics. It can be used to refer to the whole engine management system, but in this context is most likely referring to the computer ("brain" or ECU) that runs the system.

 

I thought this was fixed by recent warranty work. BUT the car stalled yesterday in traffic. Hopefully it's a one time thing. Ha ha i said that before. Now at the dealer

 

Thanks for the heads-up (new MINI term?) and that sounds like a blanket term for anything computer managed....

Digital - so not an analog sensor (coolant temp, etc)
Motor - only influencing the drivetrain
Electrics - obviously, since it's a little difficult to have "digital" without "electrics".

:-) I had to have some fun with that - bad habit.

 

YUCK! Stalling absolutely sucks - seriously. So sorry to hear that. I just hope the dealer is on top of things, and you don't wind up feeling like I do about VW's now - need to buy 2 and keep one at the dealer. LOL. ugh.

 

Just noticed that the rubber floor mat anchors unscrewed themselves and a couple of inches were resting on the throttle. Who knows what the elec throttle thinks of this. So. I removed the mat and will see if the problem recurs

 

Not the floormats. Car stalled at a stop sign last night. Back to the dealer on Monday

 

I've been experiencing cold start stumbling and on a few occasions stall outs. I read all I could find on the forum and it appeared people who got fuel pumps replaced, solved the problem. I don't agree with that solution because a failing pump is very noticeable. It makes a lot of noise and still pumps. I believe these people had their problem fixed because when the pump was replaced they also replaced the fuel filter. When I would start my car stumble or not you could hear a faint whine and tick sequence about 5 times from under the car at the pass side of the fuel tank. That is where the filter resides. The pump side is dead quiet. I replaced the fuel filter. It was filthy! I believe the dirty filter restricted flow especially at startup. The noise was the check valve system working to build pressure on a cold start. The first thing I notice with the new filter installed is the car starts immediately at key turn. No more crank,crank,start. My problem started around 50k miles. I expect the problem is solved. Cheap easy fix compared to new pump. Easy if you work on cars. Not easy as far as fuel filters go. Read the forum how to and run your tank really low before you start.

 

It warmed up around here the last few days (70deg F in December!), so I was out of excuses on messing with the Mini. I missed driving it, but you know how busy we all get.

My Matco MD9000 Code Tool (2004) mated to the car with no trouble, and came up with these codes:

P2187 System too lean at idle - bank 1

P0442 Evap Emission Control System Leak (minor)

P2187 System too lean at idle - bank 1

only 3 codes on record - I then erased (reset) the codes.


I've driven the car about 50 miles since then over the past few days, no new codes - however, I did get the *close gas cap* warning again after topping it off yesterday.

I'll be ordering a new OEM fuel cap and replacing that as soon as convenient to keep that straight.

Does anyone have any insight on the code/condition P2187 ?

I'm thinking fuel quality....

Thanks again everyone!

 

Update on my 2010 MCa. Back from the dealer. They tested a page full of things and found a couple of corroded wires near drivers frame rail that effected the neutral safety switch. Soldered new wire sections. So far so good.