You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
My local stealership scanned a code for (((boost pressure deviation))) which is Code 2885 on my baverian technic. They told me they wanted another 140 bucks to diagnose it further by pulling the exhaust etc.........I said no LOL.
07 MCS with 112k no warranty.
Well today i done a few test my self and need some help from the mini gurus
i hooked up a temporary boost gauge and found out that I'm only boostin 8-10psi , when I'm out of the limp mode(half power), after few pulls i got the half power 2885code, and zero boost,
boost leak tested ----no boost leaks
After that i tested the vacuum to the waste gate and found out its working ok, 20-25 vacuum and zero when the ecu goes to limp mode.
pulled the diverter valve and it looked clean (Is there anyway to test it to see if works.)
connected the hand vacuum pump to the waste gate actuator ,,,so i can bypass the factory solenoid and close the flapper manually on a test drive, what i found out was that i still only boosted 10 psi max with the waste gate actuator closed which is not normal.
I pulled the down pipe, and looked the the flapped and found what looks like wear on the flapper arm which is leak in exhaust gassed, with the wate gate closed i can take a pick and pry the flapped open with little effort .
What do you guys think should the flapper arm be flat or angled like the pics.
And I'm assuming you checked the impellars for play of any sort also right? Have you checked the rubber ens of vacuum hose to the vacuum pump and the valve located under the intake? Just follow the vacuum hose from the pump around the block down under intake. I have seen those 2 ends swell up and not securely hold. Will also give you boost problem.
SAVE THE WAVE!!!!!
2002 EB MINI 15% pulley, JCW injectors, K&N Intake, Detroit Tuned Bypass valve, H&R coilovers, SSR18in Competition Wheels, JCW Big Brake kit, JCW spoiler, Thumper ported & polished Head, RMW Header, Borla Sport Exhaust, Dinan Strut Bar, 19mm Rear sway bar, Alcantara Steering wheel, JCW cabron fiber dash & shift ****, JCW Aero Kit, Projector Xenons, GRS Motorsport Intercooler
YES,checked the all the hoses, and there is 0 play on the shaft and it spins freely. I'm 80% sure its the the waste gate, it opens with no resistance from the wear on the arm. Causing a open waste gate effect,causing low boost.
I'm going to try few tricks to fix that if that don't work....I guess ill have to buy a new turbo for 1800 bucks. THANKS MINI FOR BUILDING SHIIIT quality parts......
with that milage I've seen the wastegate seat burn up causing loss of boost. The first one was mind bottling because I checked everything liek you have listed and I couldn't find out what was wrong. Once the turbo was replaced it worked fine. Sucks to hear, but you probably do need a turbo. Lucky for you its not that hard to do the job yourself. No special tools are needed to do it. just make sure you get a few essential parts so that way you don't end up having to go back in after the fact.
I have a stock K03 turbo from my 08 if you are interested....PM me if so. I'll give it to you a lot cheaper than what a dealer wants!
__________________ 2006 MINI Cooper S JCW GP--GP#1599 -231whp,195wtrq 2014 MINI Cooper F56--Midnight Black/Black
------------------------------------------------------------ 2008 MINI Cooper S R56--Astro Black/White--Gone -225whp, 260wtrq
I just went through this with my 07 MCS that was supposed to be still under warranty. Mini denied my warranty for the turbo because of they said the original owner was late on the first oil, however they provided me no proof in writing. That is another story for another thread.
Back on point. If you want to get your turbo rebuilt, PM me and I found a vendor that will do it for much less than the cost of a new turbo and they do great work. At 44,000 miles my hot side impeller was shot, but you could not tell by just looking at the openings on the hot and cold side once removed. You needed to seperate the housing of the turbo to see the damage. The symtoms you have sound very similar to what happened with my car. They rebuilt mine and it worked great.
BTW they told me they had at least 2 other Mini Cooper S turbos there to be rebuilt after mine, so it is not an uncommon problem. It was obvious the damage to my turbo was not an oiling problem. Still replace your oil feed and oil drain lines with new ones to be safe and they warranty their work for 1 year or 12,000 miles if I remember correctly.