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Hello all. I haven't posted much on the community forums much so I decided I'd start a project thread for my '05 PW/B Cooper S. I had recently purchased this car back in April of this year with 74k on the clock and I was excited to start motoring. Checked out the car, came with a 12mo powertrain warranty . I was off the lot 3 days later and I was grinning immediately.
I have a feeling some components are on their way out and I plan on replacing everything with an aftermarket upgrade for beneficial gains. First to come was a valve/lifter problem I think I was having (July of this year). I was constantly checking my oil because I always thought maybe I might have lost some and there was not enough getting up to the head. I had gotten a full synthetic oil change (Mobil 1) and it ran like a champ, so much better. Noise was gone. About a month later (2 weeks ago), the noise came back for an attack but I've only heard it that one time, hasn't done it since. This is a mystery problem I'll figure out when I have the time.
My current issue now is a broken motor mount. On my way down to Richmond, VA from NOVA and I started hearing knocking. Assumed it was a strut tower and I was going to check it out when I got there. Popped the hood and saw the messy hydraulic fluid all over the place.
Quickly called Way and he told me that I'd be alright to drive it home and he hooked me up with a TSW Engine mount and some new lower Powerflex yellow bushings. Can't wait to throw these bad boys on. Wish I would have ordered a pulley kit when I was on the phone. I'm pretty much working in the same area and doing the same disassembly.
I will update when I get a good feel for how everything feels. The bushings will take a weeks worth of driving to settle, as will the engine mount so I probably won't notice much at first, but at least it's a better fix for an OEM problem.
The engine mount problem is very common... have not installed a powerflex engine mount yet. Let us know how the new engine mount feels. And how much noise and vibration does it transmit. It will probably make the drivetrain feel very nice and tight
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GFs 2006 R52 MCS Alta 15% underdrive, M7 strut plates, PowerFlex A Arms
The mounts were my first problem as well, and like you are thinking now, I went ahead and did the pulley and tensioner bushings while I had the motor on the jack.
Nice choice for your replacement part and Powerflex addition. The vibration will be pretty intense at first but will mellow out more and more in the first month. You also made a great choice for advice and who you purchased from. Way won't steer you wrong! No pun intented
Chad
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[SIGPIC]OZ Ultraleggra's, Conti DW Extreme contact, H&R coilovers,H-Sport Comp rear sway bar, H-Sport control arms, Magnaflow cat back, Maddness 15%, K&N Typhoon CAI, M7 STB, Black projector headlights, Euro taillights, RMW tune, RMW street cam, RMW 450cc injectors,GP intercooler, DDM air diverter, Alta OCC, ATI Super damper, Powerflex bushings, ACT clutch & Streetlight flywheel, OBX LSD
Well, after much work, I finally got that old hydraulic mount out of there. Whoever installed that mount torqued it past 100lbs (what a dumba$$). Had to use air to get that E12 torx off. Glad to say I got the TSW installed and it's ready for business.
However, I'm puzzled as to what to do with these bushings. I had removed the factory pressed rubber bushing and I am not sure how to press the new ones in. Do I need the metal bushing that is still stuck to that other hunk of rubber or can I buy a new one?
I made the same mistake, don't feel bad. You need to insert the Powerflex bushings into the holes of the factory bushing. No removal or modification of the factory bushing is necessary.
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[SIGPIC]OZ Ultraleggra's, Conti DW Extreme contact, H&R coilovers,H-Sport Comp rear sway bar, H-Sport control arms, Magnaflow cat back, Maddness 15%, K&N Typhoon CAI, M7 STB, Black projector headlights, Euro taillights, RMW tune, RMW street cam, RMW 450cc injectors,GP intercooler, DDM air diverter, Alta OCC, ATI Super damper, Powerflex bushings, ACT clutch & Streetlight flywheel, OBX LSD
@croth - It was an easy fix. My stock bushing was torn anyway so that's why I pressed it out, thinking the yellows were replacements. Went ahead and picked up a new one for $60 from Sterling BMW/Mini .
@wrh3 - I wish I had. I actually thought about having one over-nighted from Way yesterday but I didn't want to drop the $$$ on over-night shipping. It'll be an easy task now since I know what I'll need to get into.
All in all, I'm happy with how the car feels now, even though it vibrates like a damn nascar, which actually wasn't as bad as it was earlier today. Got her all washed and I'll snap a pic in the morning.
My second issue to attend to is what ever this chatter/rattle I'm experiencing. It's very annoying and it sounds like it's coming directly from underneath the valve cap, but I could be mistaken. I took a video of it, maybe anyone can make out what might be causing this problem.
The funny thing about this chatter or whatever you want to call it, is that it comes and goes from time to time; usually when I'm driving for at least 30 mins and turn off the car (I ususally let the car sit for 2 mins before turning off), I'll hear this noise on start up, but I'll rev the engine a tad and it goes away.
Finally got annoyed of the noise so I took her into Sterling BMW and the found a shot Timing chain tensioner. Getting a new one as well as a new valve cover gasket and a belt.
My auxiliary fan is also dead. Has anyone ever installed one before?
Yes. The car has 2 cooling fans? not including the PS fan. One fan is high-speed, and one is low speed. the low speed fan is bad, which is why my main (high-speed) fan is usually on.
As for the motor mounts, the TSW poly mount didn't fit right. there was a gap between the fully threaded screw w/ washer and the underside of the engine bay compartment. I went up to my local hardware store and got a spacer that just fits over the bolt threads and secured it well with loctite.
When I started the car up for the first time, it felt as if it was a nascar, awesome haha. They settled over the next day but I didn't want to push the car at all until they soften up for a while. Once I can actually take my car for a good drive, I'll get back to you on my initial reviews.
The high and low speed fan are the same unit. For low speed the current goes through a resistor before hitting the fan, that is the part that usually breaks,
__________________ '05 HB/B MCS.
With: LED lit scoop - DIY AUX cable - Angel Eye running lights - M7 STB - Air horn - Rally Lights -SVT Focus LSD - Poly Control arm bushings - IE fixed plates
UCONN FSAE Engine Systems Head '10-present
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Don't be afraid to push your car while the vibration is greater. The only place you should feel a difference is at idle. It will get a lot better in the next few weeks.
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[SIGPIC]OZ Ultraleggra's, Conti DW Extreme contact, H&R coilovers,H-Sport Comp rear sway bar, H-Sport control arms, Magnaflow cat back, Maddness 15%, K&N Typhoon CAI, M7 STB, Black projector headlights, Euro taillights, RMW tune, RMW street cam, RMW 450cc injectors,GP intercooler, DDM air diverter, Alta OCC, ATI Super damper, Powerflex bushings, ACT clutch & Streetlight flywheel, OBX LSD
The high and low speed fan are the same unit. For low speed the current goes through a resistor before hitting the fan, that is the part that usually breaks,
Thank you for clarifying this. Do you know if the fan is easy to get to? I'm looking to try to replace this myself if I can and I haven't been able to find a dang thing in regards to the cooling fan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRoth
+1
Don't be afraid to push your car while the vibration is greater. The only place you should feel a difference is at idle. It will get a lot better in the next few weeks.
I didn't want to push the car because it was dieseling like no other. I had no clue what was going on so I just resisted for the time being. My car should be ready today and I'll take her through some backroads. I've got a stretch of road that right along the potomac river that is awesome for driving.
I was talking to my dad today. From what he told me, the car's fan is connected via a power connector which is connected to a relay. Now that relay is what's controlling the high and low fan speed I'm assuming. He told me to check the Relay and the two engine cooling fan fuses to make sure they are still in order. any thoughts?
Search this forum for "cooling fan". If you plan to do any work on the car yourself, I highly recommend you get a Bentley Service Manual, the ISBN# is: 0837610680.
I was talking to my dad today. From what he told me, the car's fan is connected via a power connector which is connected to a relay. Now that relay is what's controlling the high and low fan speed I'm assuming. He told me to check the Relay and the two engine cooling fan fuses to make sure they are still in order. any thoughts?
There is a huge thread on this. It is the fan assembly as was mentioned above that is the problem. There is a resistor in there that burns out and there is no way to replace or repair it. You will need a new assembly.
Hmm well it looks like I will be buying a new radiator fan then. I'm not even sure if I have one that can have a resistor changed, but I'd rather feel safe than sorry and just replace the whole unit. Might as well do a coolant flush while I'm there.
. I was off the lot 3 days later and I was grinning immediately.
'05 HB/B MCS. 
