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Following a few sets of instructions found on NAM is not working for me. I had to remove my radiator yesterday to change out the core support.
Now I have it put back together and I'm put new coolant in. Following the directions, I opened up the one bleeder valve on the top hose, started pouring the Zerex G05 into the expansion tank. It only took about 3 quarts then started overflowing. I intended to put a little over 3 quarts of Zerex and a little over 3 quarts of distilled water, according to the capacity guidelines of 6.3 quarts.
I filled up the expansion tank with Zerex and then poured some water in the bleeder valve, but not 3 quarts. I started the car up and got it to temp. The Zerex started expanding and water started coming out of the bleeder valve.
I don't think I have enough fluid in but it won't take any more! I turned the heater on once the car said it was at temp but no hot air comes out.
Since it is likely the block was never drained...or the heater core, it seems you put in about the right amount....about a gallon or so. If you did not pre mix it, I would drop the lower hose, dranin it, then refill again....this will also Drain some of the older fluid still in the block, and you will have a fresher mix overall. Good luck
or you could just bleed out a couple quarts with the bleed valve with the motor running.
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l 2005 MCS l 11-04 Production l owned since new l RMW Tuned l Craven -17% Pulley l Craven Speed STD l Dinan CAI l JCW 380's l H&R 19 MM Swaybar l MSD Ignition l Power Steering Fan Duct l LightInSight l "EURO" MINI Armrest l Euro Parcel Shelf l Brake Light PULSAR(gen2)l Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop l Blitzsafe/xmradio l Cobra 19IV CB l 4.5' Francis CB25 CB Antenna, mounted on the rear tow rig!!
Since it is likely the block was never drained...or the heater core, it seems you put in about the right amount....about a gallon or so. If you did not pre mix it, I would drop the lower hose, dranin it, then refill again....this will also Drain some of the older fluid still in the block, and you will have a fresher mix overall. Good luck
or you could just bleed out a couple quarts with the bleed valve with the motor running.
As I last left it, I had an expansion tank full of Zerex, and plain water flowing in the top hose (water I poured in there). When the car came to temp, I had water flowing out of the bleed valve and Zerex coming out of the expansion tank. I was worried that it was not flowing/mixing because the heater was not heating up. Since I put 3 quarts in the expansion, I could just suck out a 1.5 quarts with a Shop-Vac and replace it with water, right? I don't have jack stands and it was a bear to take the bottom hose off.
I guess you could suck the coolant out with the wet/dry, if it did not already start to mix, however I would not want that sticky coolant going through my shop vac. I suggest using a turkey baster to suck the coolant out. I have large syringes that I use to suck auto fluids, that I got from an animal suppy store.
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2006 MCS JCW GP #1405: Adj Front Camber Plates, 19mm Rear Sway Bar, MM Front Lower Brace, Milltek Cat-Back, TCE 13" Front/11.75" Rear BBK, 15mm Spacers, Wheel Studs, JCM Modified Intake, MM Filter, Gauges
I guess you could suck the coolant out with the wet/dry, if it did not already start to mix, however I would not want that sticky coolant going through my shop vac. I suggest using a turkey baster to suck the coolant out. I have large syringes that I use to suck auto fluids, that I got from an animal suppy store.
Excellent idea. I will try that and then make sure that the net fluid I installed today is a 50/50 mix. I'm still concerned about the heater not working when I was idling the car earlier.
Just set your heater to MAX, with the fan on if you want, and let it idle until the radiator fan comes on...with the AC off of course. While waiting interminably crack the bleed valve, checking the coolant level, ....you will be amazed.....quite a lot of air will come out....and some lost coolant too...just be sure to keep cracking the bleed line till there are no bubbles coming out.....you can squeeze the upper hose...and you will be able to hear the air moving around. Some driving will also help when you are almost blead to get the last few bubbles dislodged, then re-bleed. Then be sure to adjust the level of antifreeze when done in the overflow (you can siphon off the extra)...if it is too high....it will come out the top after a hard drive, and make a mess!!
If you start your car, fan off, radio off and hear gurgling, then like a mini waterfall...no joke, then some air is trapped in the heater core...I fixed mine when it happed by simplely doing some fun, high rpm driving with the heat set to HI, and then re-bleeding. Yes the MINI is a PAIN in the keister to bleed....even the techs at MINI seem to have trouble. There might be an easier way, I'm sure someone will chime in, but the above way worked for me!!
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l 2005 MCS l 11-04 Production l owned since new l RMW Tuned l Craven -17% Pulley l Craven Speed STD l Dinan CAI l JCW 380's l H&R 19 MM Swaybar l MSD Ignition l Power Steering Fan Duct l LightInSight l "EURO" MINI Armrest l Euro Parcel Shelf l Brake Light PULSAR(gen2)l Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop l Blitzsafe/xmradio l Cobra 19IV CB l 4.5' Francis CB25 CB Antenna, mounted on the rear tow rig!!
Just set your heater to MAX, with the fan on if you want, and let it idle until the radiator fan comes on...with the AC off of course. While waiting interminably crack the bleed valve, checking the coolant level, ....you will be amazed.....quite a lot of air will come out....and some lost coolant too...just be sure to keep cracking the bleed line till there are no bubbles coming out.....you can squeeze the upper hose...and you will be able to hear the air moving around. Some driving will also help when you are almost blead to get the last few bubbles dislodged, then re-bleed. Then be sure to adjust the level of antifreeze when done in the overflow (you can siphon off the extra)...if it is too high....it will come out the top after a hard drive, and make a mess!!
If you start your car, fan off, radio off and hear gurgling, then like a mini waterfall...no joke, then some air is trapped in the heater core...I fixed mine when it happed by simplely doing some fun, high rpm driving with the heat set to HI, and then re-bleeding. Yes the MINI is a PAIN in the keister to bleed....even the techs at MINI seem to have trouble. There might be an easier way, I'm sure someone will chime in, but the above way worked for me!!
So by cracking the bleeder screw on the top hose I won't get sprayed with hot coolant? I can only check the coolant level visually in the expansion tank right, since it will overflow when the engine is hot if I take the cap off? 20 questions!
Ok I left the car running at idle for a while and eventually the radiator fan came on and the heater got hot. The car temp stayed where it usually is. I bled off some air out of the valve and eventually it stopped bleeding both air and coolant. I put in some more 50/50 mix and then bled off a little more. Then I went for a short drive and came back, bleeding a little more. But eventually nothing comes out of the valve.
While the engine is hot, I've topped off the coolant. I'll continue to run it and bleed while I'm getting the bumper ready to put back on.
You will not get sprayed by hot coolant when you crack the bleeder. It just kind of bubbles out. It will be hot so be a little careful not to get burned.
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2006 MCS JCW GP #1405: Adj Front Camber Plates, 19mm Rear Sway Bar, MM Front Lower Brace, Milltek Cat-Back, TCE 13" Front/11.75" Rear BBK, 15mm Spacers, Wheel Studs, JCM Modified Intake, MM Filter, Gauges
