Earlier cars w/ 2 plug fan harness have both the high speed fan relay & low speed fan resistor side by side in the fan assembly, Kong. Those w/ single plug only have the resistor up front.

 

Nope!

There is most definitely a resister on both the one and two-plug fans. On the older two-plug fans the relay is there too. Later cars have the relay relocated to the fuse box in the engine compartment.

On the older one plug fans the Dorman/Detroit Tuned assembly is the way to go as it has a resister that will not fail. On the newer one-plug fans, the external resister is a simple elegant fix.

///Rich

 

It's been quite a long time since I regularly posted stuff here, but I figured I would chime in and say thanks to everyone in this thread. I just finished putting a resistor in my 05 R53 with the one plug fan connector. All the pictures surely helped. Tomorrow I will provide the Amazon link where I bought my green Amcio resistor and hopefully a pic of my install location.

Thanks everyone.

edit: The Amazon link. I bought 2 just in case I burned one out.

 

ii figured i would chime back in, just so I can say I Chimed In, that's such word you like to say, Chimed in.
Oh, while i am Chiming, Minsanity, you got your ears on? if you happen to read this post, do you have any detailed instructions on how to and what to Remove to gain access to part number # 64111499122? all the Photos and diagrams do not help any, they do not explain How to remove the parts, nor do they tell you 'Which parts' to remove to gain access to this part? # 64111499122 blower motor resistor for a 2002 mini cooper with the Auto Air option. The Haynes manual and the Clinton manual or useless for this job they only show the other resistor. I even bought the Bentley Service manual but it is 2 weeks out. it was on back order. I need some type of accurate detailed instructions on where this other resistor is located, and what you need to remove, and how to remove the parts to get to it. I cant find anything anywhere, well anything worth a flip. do you have any good 411 on this headache? I man blower motor resistor that is just right there, (But isn't there)
thanks, any 411 on this topic at all would be great,
Kongfish

 

Kong, you're talking about the A/C blower resistor while this long thread has been about the rad fan resistor. Two different animals. Unfortunately, not too many of us have had the problem you're having. I can only share you the fixes I've had 1st hand experience w/.
How were you able to narrow it down to a resistor you can't even find?
Should you finally get it sorted, please share w/ us.

 

I can't tell if you're actually trolling Minsanity or not but here is the location (passenger footwell) with a picture and instructions.

and a link to a diagram:
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...=64&fg=40&hl=2

"IHKA" is the automatic heating/AC system.

 

Appreciate the hand, anyheck!

 

 

Here's where I mounted mine,

 

Hi there,

I have an '03 Cooper S with low speed fan issues. I've read and read and read and now I'm ready to buy some parts.

My car is an early 03 (10/02), so it has the relay located on the fan. The car was showing signs of intermittent overheating and the highspeed fan would run for a while after the car shut off. Found out the coolant level was low (car is new to me), and that seemed to have solved it. Fast-forward 6 months and it did it again, and it's low again. When it overheats, it blows cold so I'm thinking t-stat is stuck closed. But the coolant is low again, so then I'm thinking air bubble. So maybe the expansion tank cap is shot? or did the coolant escape when it overheated? This lead me to notice my low-speed fan was not turning on.

I tested the fan with a multi-meter and found the low speed fan circuit to be open. My problem is that I can't now confirm the high-speed fan is working. It worked the other day (when it last overheated) but I haven't been able to make it come on since. Turning on the A/C does nothing so I suspect I might have unrelated A/C problems as well. Is there another test I can do that will force the fan on? It's winter already here so getting it hot isn't easy. I did swap relays in the fuse box (battery fan for highspeed fan, no difference)

I'm debating between fixing the current fan assembly for good, or just simply replacing the whole thing this time around.

It's also making a knocking noise. I've been lead to believe it's the timing chain tensioner.

So far I plan on ordering:
Expansion tank cap (it's cheap and easy, worth a shot)
T-stat (the car is 10 years old, who knows what kind of shape its in)
Timing chain tensioner
Resistor for Fan, or whole fan assembly

A/C compressor - next spring if required

Any input would be greatly appreciated. I am very mechanically inclined but I deal mostly with diesel VW's so the Mini is new to me. The car also recently had the recall done for the power steering fan.

Thanks!

 

"if the engine is overheating and the cooling fan is not coming on when the engine temperature rises to an excessive level, unplug the fan motor electrical connector, and connect the motor directly to the battery with fused jumper wires. If the fan motor doesn't come on, replace the motor". -Haynes repair manual for MINI

You've already tested the low speed resistor, and found it open, so I guess you know where the plug is on the driver side of the fan shroud. Use the ground and the larger of the red wires to test it connecting power on the high speed side, obviously with your resistor open, connecting through the small red wire will do nothing.

Hope that helps. BTW, look carefully at your t-stat housing before you remove it, make sure no signs of leaks. I've heard they're a common failure point.

I sure hope your AC works in the end, I'm pretty sure a new fan is the cheaper option. Also there are a couple different fuses in that circuit for the radiator fan -be sure to check them both.

 

Hey folks- Has anyone had any experience with this? Its available at Rock Auto for $21.79. I am wondering if this is an aftermarket fix for the low speed fan problem. Thanks in advance for any tips or advice.

ÜRO PARTS 17117541092R Cooling Fan Resistor Repair Upgrade Kit

 

I just bought one of those, literally got it yesterday, not from Rock Auto, but they're cool vendor.

Haven't put it in yet, but many advised me that the Dorman Resistor is better, and will withstand the heat -and that the one I have will fail again.

Detroit Tuned had the Dorman, it's like $50ish I think.

I found a couple people with the cheap green replacement that said it had worked well for over a year. I guess I'll find out

 

Hey let me know how it works out and any install tips or take-aways you have when you put it in. I have an 05 R53 and I am have the same low speed fan issue. Also starting to get the P/S pump issue intermittently. I guess I'll see how well the recall goes...

 

So I'll be replacing the radiator, and some other stuff too.

I've compared my Bently Manual with the Girls Guide to Service Mode -it's stickied at the top of the R53 forum here on NAM, or google for it. I prefer it for sliding the Modular Front End forward, cause I'll be able to work straight through it instead of flipping back n forth to different sections in the Bently.

Look at the Detroit Tuned sight, find the Dorman Resistor, and there's a PDF of install instructions. Three wires, so it's probably the same, but I'm good at electronic stuff, so once I get there I can look to see which wires are supposed to have resistance and double check myself with multi-meter. I'll also search around a little for instruction specific to the UOR resistor, but I think it's just gotta be the same -they don't change the circuit design -it's just that the Dorman is built a little better to handle the heat in that area right behind the radiator.

I'll let you know if anything is different.

I have a Saturday project at the office, so with Monday off for Veterans Day, I hope to be done and on the road again by Tuesday. -Wish me luck that nothing strips or breaks.

 

That is NOT the one to get. I have yet to hear of a failure of the one on the right:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co..._stuff_001.jpg

Detroit Tuned has them as does eBay and elsewhere.

Rich

 

appreciate your response but, the "made in china" thing scares me

 

I really think he was steering you in the right direction, regardless of where it's made, it is simply a higher industrial grade of resistor, specifically designed to operate under extreme temperatures.

I completely expect the UOR that I got to fail again. -Im thinking I should get a year or two out of it. Do you want to take it all apart again to replace it again? A fair amount of work to get to it.

I was about ready to by-pass the low speed all together, and just jump the low speed wire into the high speed one to omit the resistor all together. When I had to go in there for another reason, I thought what the heck, -another twenty bucks, and I can see what the low speed fan sounds like -it's never worked since I've owned the car. I got by last summer by turning on the AC if ever I got stuck in traffic, that made the high speed fan click on for about 15 seconds about twice a minute.

 

New to the forum, since I bought my R53 last month. Thanks to everyone here, I was able to piece a lot of info on deciding which route to go. First off, I have a 2003 MCS, with a production date of 09/02, so I have the older fan version with the resistor built into the fan assembly. Some of my symptoms were coolant leaking from coolant reservoir cap, plus I could see I was at about 230° + F (using Torque) and first stage fan was still not engaging.


My initial reaction was since I was going to pull the fan, I might as well change it with a new Dorman 620-902 fan. But curiosity got the better of me, and I ordered a set of 100W .33 ohm resistors from Amazon:




I used Gerldoc’s post to get into service mode. I neglected getting the M8 x100mm bolts that were required. Instead I used the one bolt on each side that secures the bumper carrier. Then I followed stevendoll’s post on changing the fan. I didn’t cut the wire ties holding the fan wire in place along the top. I pulled them out as they were attached to some clips.


Once I got the fan out, and inspected the resistor and verified there was a disconnect along the coil. I then used an4sprite’s post as a guide to hack saw off the old resistor. This where I got stuck because I suck at soldering! I ended up going with solderless clips that I crimped on to the “tabs” that were there after removing the old resistor. It took some filing, but I managed to get the connectors crimped on securely. I ran the wire to the front of the bumper carrier where I mounted the new resistor. Tested and all is well! Low speed fan kicks in at 221° F .


Some tips, get your hardware (screws) for mounting the new resistor ready. Figure out if you have the skills to solder, if not get some good solderless connectors you can crimp on.



Now on to the passenger door lock assembly...

 

hey guys ive read the forum for a while but had to register to post ive got the early setup that looks like this one here

ive tried a couple of ways wireing the setup up and it doesnt work for me ive tried

thin red low speed wire from relay into resistor then out into thick red high speed fan wire

thin red low speed wire from cars loom relay into resistor then out into thick red high speed fan wire

thin red low speed wire from relay into resistor then out into thick red high speed fan wire

thin red low speed wire from relay into resistor then out into thick blue wire that goes directly to the fan

thin red low speed wire from relay into resistor then out thin red low speed wire on cars loom side (this is where the original resister was)

id really appreciate if anyone has done this early version who could help me out

 

I'm not sure I understand your goal.

Are you installing a new resistor? Are you trying to do-away with the low speed function?

There are 3 wires coming from the car:
1. Thin red (low speed power) this one goes to the resistor.
2. Thick red ( high speed power) this one essentially goes straight to the fan, but splices into the blue one.
3. Ground (straight to fan)

Your picture is confusing me,.. Do you have your old and new resistor sitting side by side?

If you have a new resistor you want to use, the thin red one should go to one side of the resistor opposite the blue wire.
If you want to bypass the resistor (at your own risk), then the thin red one goes right to the blue one (or the thick red one further up stream)

I hope that makes sense. BTW, from what I read above; seems like it "should" work.

Check fuses I'd say.
Also does your fan work if you jumper it straight to the battery? (this is safe, technically there should be a fuse in your test lead -that's the Haynes Repair Manual method to test fan)

 

sorry dude i should of said im trying to add a new resistor to my cooper s and ive got the early setup with the relay in the picture it has 2x plugs on the other side a 3 wire and a small 2 wire

but a lot of the guides are for the later setups witch are single plug without a relay

i just wanted to confirm witch wires i use 100% as i couldn't get mine too work

i have powerd the high and low speed fan wires with +12v and the fan works , and ive checked all the fuses under the hood ,

i think my problem is a mixture of not being sure witch wires to use and or not letting the car get hot enough as i was switching it off at 100c useing test mode coolent temp

hope this helps

 

theres got to be a member whos done this mod on an older setup like mine with the relay on the fan housing


at the moment ive got the resester wired in the exact place the original one was but ive still got no fan with air con and no fan untill 112c witch is the high speed one

ive got 2x plugs on the right hand side of the car

ones got 3 wires that goto the relay in the fan housing

black = ground

thicker red = permanent 12v feed

thinner red = slow speed this has the original resister wired between that and the relay

theres also a small plug with 2x thinner wires that go into the relay

 

Hey guys i need some help. Last night i drove out to st louis from my hometown springfield, mo and at my stop in rolla i left the car running as my newborn son and fiance waited in the car. When I came out from the gas station my scan gauge thermostat reading was at 225ish or so. No fan sound at all, and thermostat wasn't opening. I also saw coolant burning smoke as my reservoir tank was dripping from the lower hose. So I turned it off, and popped the cap off and the tank was full to the brim. It was only half way full when i checked my fluids about 8 hours before the trip. So I figured I had vapor lock and it was keeping the thermostat from opening up. It was just way too cold out (28 degrees) and I also have a csf racing radiator (all aluminum). So I put the cap back on and drove the rest of the way. Temps stayed at 187-198 as i watched it the rest of my journey (3 hour drive to st louis from rolla). I tried the a/c force low speed fan trick and it still did not come on. So I know its my fan resistor. The problem is i dont really have the 120$ autozone wants for the fully assembly, and right now i cant really order a new resistor online. I was wondering if i could cut the big green resistor out and then just solder in a little piece of wire in between the contacts for the resistor. Will this work and just cause the fan to run on highspeed when the low speed is triggered on? Please let me know as I need to fix my vehicle to get back home safely. We can't afford to break down on the road as the weather conditions are frantically changing for the worse and being on the side of the road could cost us our lives. Please inbox me or reply to this post so I am notified. Tomorrow(feb 2) i am going to go back to my friends and either pick up that fan and shell out money i dont have to spend or see if i can pick up the dorman 902-706 resistor/relay replacement box.

 

You can just bypass the resistor by soldering a jumper wire in place of the resistor. Ive done it and it works just fine. But test and make sure that your resistor is bad first. Also check all fuses that relate to the fan.