Low Speed Fan Resistor - we need solution
#501
#502
My fan only has two wires going into the fan motor, the wire harness has one plug and socket with just three wires. GRD, Low speed wire, high speed wire, all relays Hi and Low are in the fuse panel. The fan housing has a space for a relay under the cover for the resistor but of course mine is in the fuse panel. I checked the resistor it was open, the resistance wire had burned through.
#503
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Has anyone found a different suitable substitute for the mouser part? I've confirmed that my low speed fan is out and would like to bypass the failed unit, but can't wait for mouser to re-stock. If not, I'll order a new fan unit from rock auto and then just order the mouser part when available for the next time. Thanks
#504
I suspect my low speed is not working either...I on the other hand am not capable of diy. This may be a stupid question but I'll ask anyways... would it be cheaper for me to buy the parts myself and have a mechanic do the install? Also if I went this route is there a preferred brand to order?
#505
start reading on page 5
I suspect my low speed is not working either...I on the other hand am not capable of diy. This may be a stupid question but I'll ask anyways... would it be cheaper for me to buy the parts myself and have a mechanic do the install? Also if I went this route is there a preferred brand to order?
#506
Ok- New to the sight- Just got a 2003 MCS with 45,000 mile and I think I might have the same problem. Car doesn't run hot, but fan recycles on high speed when I turn the AC on. Spent last night reading the 21 pages. My fan assembly has the 2 plug wires. Does anyone have the Dorman or TYC part number for the 2 plug fan? Thought I might try O'Reillys to see if they could get it. Thanks in advance
#507
To Minintrigue a few posts up...
Here's a 300 Watt 0.31 ohm wirewound power resistor from Mouser - 9 in stock at the moment - under $36.
It doesn't surface mount like the other but should work fine if you give some space around it for cooling.
However, it's fairly big - 28 x 215 mm (8 1/2 inches long).
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...UfW6QbQ67Go%3d
Better would be two of these 0.68 50W wired in parallel. Much smaller, surface mount - screw onto a metal part with
heat sink compound between them to transfer heat away from the resistor.
29 in stock at $5 each.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...xqvf9%2fvBs%3d
There are several 1 ohm 50W resistors in stock in Mouser - hook 3 up in parallel as above.
Here one (over 400 in stock and about $5 each).
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...2btn4EDpiek%3d
Here's a 300 Watt 0.31 ohm wirewound power resistor from Mouser - 9 in stock at the moment - under $36.
It doesn't surface mount like the other but should work fine if you give some space around it for cooling.
However, it's fairly big - 28 x 215 mm (8 1/2 inches long).
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...UfW6QbQ67Go%3d
Better would be two of these 0.68 50W wired in parallel. Much smaller, surface mount - screw onto a metal part with
heat sink compound between them to transfer heat away from the resistor.
29 in stock at $5 each.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...xqvf9%2fvBs%3d
There are several 1 ohm 50W resistors in stock in Mouser - hook 3 up in parallel as above.
Here one (over 400 in stock and about $5 each).
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...2btn4EDpiek%3d
Last edited by cristo; 07-12-2011 at 07:25 AM.
#509
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Thanks Cristo, I ordered the 2 smaller ones today. But now that I read this thread for the 3rd time I'm not so sure I have a low speed fan problem (yet).
On my '06 MCS, when I start the car, no fan
turn on A/C, fan start up in about 20-30 seconds, which I thought was the high speed but maybe not as there is no cycling as I've read about. I just stays on, and the P/S fan is also on.
If that is the low speed fan, then I don't know that my high speed fan is working. The entire reason I started reading this as it hot here and my fan no longer runs after I shut the car off like it used to when its hot.
Any thoughts?
also, how do I check for high speed fan operation?
On my '06 MCS, when I start the car, no fan
turn on A/C, fan start up in about 20-30 seconds, which I thought was the high speed but maybe not as there is no cycling as I've read about. I just stays on, and the P/S fan is also on.
If that is the low speed fan, then I don't know that my high speed fan is working. The entire reason I started reading this as it hot here and my fan no longer runs after I shut the car off like it used to when its hot.
Any thoughts?
also, how do I check for high speed fan operation?
Last edited by minintrigue; 07-12-2011 at 12:04 PM.
#510
Cooling fan
What year and model MINI do you have? Location?, someone here may be able to help you out locally or recommend a good MINI mechanic in your area.
If your asking about resistors the, ARCOL HS100 R47 is out of stock till Sept.
But cristo just found these Mouser Part #: 71-RH50-0.68
Manufacturer Part #: RH050R6800FC02, you need two wired in parallel
Replacement fan, I have not purchased one but it seems rockauto.com is popular and reliable for replacement fan assembly's.
If your asking about resistors the, ARCOL HS100 R47 is out of stock till Sept.
But cristo just found these Mouser Part #: 71-RH50-0.68
Manufacturer Part #: RH050R6800FC02, you need two wired in parallel
Replacement fan, I have not purchased one but it seems rockauto.com is popular and reliable for replacement fan assembly's.
#511
cristo;
I like this idea: "Better would be two of these 0.68 50W wired in parallel. Much smaller, surface mount - screw onto a metal part with
heat sink compound between them to transfer heat away from the resistor.
29 in stock at $5 each."
But you know what mine works great, I mounted it with two three sixteenth inch aluminum pop rivets to a quarter inch thick strip of aluminum which has U shape slot that slips under a bumper mounting nut. I have checked it for heat several times after running around and it doesn't seem to be getting to hot. I didn't bother to look for my CPU heat transfer compound, so it's just hanging out there in the air stream. I have pics if interested.
I just checked their site, I must have gotten the last two ARCOL HS100 R47's.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...xqvf9%2fvBs%3d
I like this idea: "Better would be two of these 0.68 50W wired in parallel. Much smaller, surface mount - screw onto a metal part with
heat sink compound between them to transfer heat away from the resistor.
29 in stock at $5 each."
But you know what mine works great, I mounted it with two three sixteenth inch aluminum pop rivets to a quarter inch thick strip of aluminum which has U shape slot that slips under a bumper mounting nut. I have checked it for heat several times after running around and it doesn't seem to be getting to hot. I didn't bother to look for my CPU heat transfer compound, so it's just hanging out there in the air stream. I have pics if interested.
I just checked their site, I must have gotten the last two ARCOL HS100 R47's.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...xqvf9%2fvBs%3d
Last edited by norm03s; 07-12-2011 at 07:34 PM. Reason: added quotes to cristo stuff
#512
I think this is your full link:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...ka2tk5yg%3d%3d
BTW, if you just go to passive components, then resistors, Mouser has a good search feature, especially
if you use the ctrl key to highlight multiple choices of resistance and power rating.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...ka2tk5yg%3d%3d
BTW, if you just go to passive components, then resistors, Mouser has a good search feature, especially
if you use the ctrl key to highlight multiple choices of resistance and power rating.
#513
Fixing 1st stage fan by adding one external resistor.
Hey folks - someone must be able to figure out a cost-effective DIY repair for the prone-to-fail low speed fan resistor. Mine has now failed, but I sure don't want to spend $200+ just for parts, assuming I can complete the replacement myself, since I'm sure that eventually someone is going to determine that its a $5.00 part that is the source of this grief. The next person to have their unit replaced PLEASE save the old one; I'll pay to have it shipped to me and I'll see what I can do.
Last edited by cooperSml; 05-21-2013 at 07:18 PM. Reason: removed invalid reference
#514
I just ordered this part from Mouser: 50w 0.33ohm resistor,
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...hPEIZVwA%3d%3d
Should be here in a week or so. I think I'm going to remove the relay and resistor from the fan altogether and replace with a separate relay and resistor. Would be cool to add a couple of LEDs so you could visually see what fan speed was being called for/running.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...hPEIZVwA%3d%3d
Should be here in a week or so. I think I'm going to remove the relay and resistor from the fan altogether and replace with a separate relay and resistor. Would be cool to add a couple of LEDs so you could visually see what fan speed was being called for/running.
#515
I just ordered this part from Mouser: 50w 0.33ohm resistor,
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...hPEIZVwA%3d%3d
Should be here in a week or so. I think I'm going to remove the relay and resistor from the fan altogether and replace with a separate relay and resistor. Would be cool to add a couple of LEDs so you could visually see what fan speed was being called for/running.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...hPEIZVwA%3d%3d
Should be here in a week or so. I think I'm going to remove the relay and resistor from the fan altogether and replace with a separate relay and resistor. Would be cool to add a couple of LEDs so you could visually see what fan speed was being called for/running.
I have a small electronic device that senses each relay is operated and indicates to me what module is operated:
Green: ac clutch
Red : fan first stage (put red here because ran 100% time when AC on)
Yellow: fan second stage
With that if I have a leak on freon when system ran the pressure oscilate to much ECU flip flop the clutch I have indication right on the dash.
I can post information about it if you are interested.
Thanks, ml
#516
Fan low speed more information
On MCS 2006 the fan second stage relay is on the fuse box right side of engine bay on the side of ECU. The resistor is inside of the fan unit.
I have a small electronic device that senses each relay is operated and indicates to me what module is operated:
Green: ac clutch
Red : fan first stage (put red here because ran 100% time when AC on)
Yellow: fan second stage
With that if I have a leak on freon when system ran the pressure oscilate to much ECU flip flop the clutch I have indication right on the dash.
I can post information about it if you are interested.
Thanks, ml
I have a small electronic device that senses each relay is operated and indicates to me what module is operated:
Green: ac clutch
Red : fan first stage (put red here because ran 100% time when AC on)
Yellow: fan second stage
With that if I have a leak on freon when system ran the pressure oscilate to much ECU flip flop the clutch I have indication right on the dash.
I can post information about it if you are interested.
Thanks, ml
Last edited by cooperSml; 05-21-2013 at 07:20 PM. Reason: invalid reference
#517
On MCS 2006 the fan second stage relay is on the fuse box right side of engine bay on the side of ECU. The resistor is inside of the fan unit.
I have a small electronic device that senses each relay is operated and indicates to me what module is operated:
Green: ac clutch
Red : fan first stage (put red here because ran 100% time when AC on)
Yellow: fan second stage
With that if I have a leak on freon when system ran the pressure oscilate to much ECU flip flop the clutch I have indication right on the dash.
I can post information about it if you are interested.
Thanks, ml
I have a small electronic device that senses each relay is operated and indicates to me what module is operated:
Green: ac clutch
Red : fan first stage (put red here because ran 100% time when AC on)
Yellow: fan second stage
With that if I have a leak on freon when system ran the pressure oscilate to much ECU flip flop the clutch I have indication right on the dash.
I can post information about it if you are interested.
Thanks, ml
Please post info about your circuit. It probably deserves its own thread in the Electrical section. I'm not afraid of circuits but I haven't designed any and would be way into the unknown.
#519
#520
This is a good write up with good diagnostic information, however be advised that it only speaks for the control side of the fan circuit; not because a relays coil is energized does not mean the output side (contacts, power supply fuse, wiring, fan motor, etc. is in good working order)
Use an OBD generic tool to monitor the engine coolant temperature along with the relay coil monitoring tool (subject of this post) to determine if the inputs to the ECU are correct.
At 105C the low speed should be on
At 112C the low and high speed should be on together
OR if the refrigerant pressure from the A/C compressor is good then the fan should also be on.
Use an OBD generic tool to monitor the engine coolant temperature along with the relay coil monitoring tool (subject of this post) to determine if the inputs to the ECU are correct.
At 105C the low speed should be on
At 112C the low and high speed should be on together
OR if the refrigerant pressure from the A/C compressor is good then the fan should also be on.
#521
Hey guys,
So I'm quite new to NAM, and first off offer my thanks to everyone here who has put in the time and effort to figure out what is going on.
After a couple of days reading through this thread, I feel like my 10/02 R53 build has NOT encountered the low-speed not working situation....yet. But I want to make sure that my low speed setting is still working.
my scenario: Car is already fairly warm (very close to half way on the temp gauge). Start car up. Low speed fan does not come on. Go on drive for roughly 20-30 min. Standard acceleration/braking/driving all together. No high revs. Park. Low speed fan is not on. Turn A/C on LOW and LOW speed fan comes on. wait about 15 secs and low speed fan is still on(no intermittance). Then turn the A/C on HIGH and HIGH speed fan comes on. Wait roughly 15 secs and High speed stays on with no intermittance. Turn A/C back on LOW and LOW speed fan comes back on. Turn car off.
I bought the car at 83k miles from a private individual who seemed to take care of the car. Just want to make sure that nothing bad happens. and if something does happen to the low speed fan I want to be able to change it asap.
And as for the power steering pump FAN, on my 10/02 build, the PSP FAN does NOT come on until the high speed circuit is activated?
Wouldn't this be bad for the PSP motor, as it is only being cooled very little by an external fan?
I'm very worried about my PSP going bad, and I feel like the PSP problem is related to the PSP fan not working properly because of the resistor on the low speed circuit.
But in my model, the psp fan won't come on unless the high speed setting is activated, which means that even if my low speed setting didn't work, the psp fan wouldn't come on anyways, unless the high speed setting was activated. correct?
sorry for my noobness.
My last car caught on fire and didn't have an extinguisher by :( and I'm really paranoid about things braking/going bad in my mini.
Thanks for the help and understanding!
So I'm quite new to NAM, and first off offer my thanks to everyone here who has put in the time and effort to figure out what is going on.
After a couple of days reading through this thread, I feel like my 10/02 R53 build has NOT encountered the low-speed not working situation....yet. But I want to make sure that my low speed setting is still working.
my scenario: Car is already fairly warm (very close to half way on the temp gauge). Start car up. Low speed fan does not come on. Go on drive for roughly 20-30 min. Standard acceleration/braking/driving all together. No high revs. Park. Low speed fan is not on. Turn A/C on LOW and LOW speed fan comes on. wait about 15 secs and low speed fan is still on(no intermittance). Then turn the A/C on HIGH and HIGH speed fan comes on. Wait roughly 15 secs and High speed stays on with no intermittance. Turn A/C back on LOW and LOW speed fan comes back on. Turn car off.
I bought the car at 83k miles from a private individual who seemed to take care of the car. Just want to make sure that nothing bad happens. and if something does happen to the low speed fan I want to be able to change it asap.
And as for the power steering pump FAN, on my 10/02 build, the PSP FAN does NOT come on until the high speed circuit is activated?
Wouldn't this be bad for the PSP motor, as it is only being cooled very little by an external fan?
I'm very worried about my PSP going bad, and I feel like the PSP problem is related to the PSP fan not working properly because of the resistor on the low speed circuit.
But in my model, the psp fan won't come on unless the high speed setting is activated, which means that even if my low speed setting didn't work, the psp fan wouldn't come on anyways, unless the high speed setting was activated. correct?
sorry for my noobness.
My last car caught on fire and didn't have an extinguisher by :( and I'm really paranoid about things braking/going bad in my mini.
Thanks for the help and understanding!
#522
my scenario: Car is already fairly warm (very close to half way on the temp gauge). Start car up. Low speed fan does not come on. Go on drive for roughly 20-30 min. Standard acceleration/braking/driving all together. No high revs. Park. Low speed fan is not on. Turn A/C on LOW and LOW speed fan comes on. wait about 15 secs and low speed fan is still on(no intermittance). Then turn the A/C on HIGH and HIGH speed fan comes on. Wait roughly 15 secs and High speed stays on with no intermittance. Turn A/C back on LOW and LOW speed fan comes back on. Turn car off.
#523
The power steering fan relay K69923 is activated by relay RII that is the one that activate the FAN 1 stage. What that means is if the FAN 1st stage is on, the Power Steering FAN should be on as well.
The FUSE for the Power Steering is the inside box close to the kick panel on driver's side, F41 5A last fuse. It is labeled Park Control because it is shared with that sub system if your car have that.
The following video demonstrate that when fan 1st stage comes on the power steering fan will be activated as well.
The FUSE for the Power Steering is the inside box close to the kick panel on driver's side, F41 5A last fuse. It is labeled Park Control because it is shared with that sub system if your car have that.
The following video demonstrate that when fan 1st stage comes on the power steering fan will be activated as well.
Last edited by cooperSml; 05-21-2013 at 07:22 PM. Reason: removed invalid reference
#524
That sounds like normal to me.
I'm in the process of contacting the owner before me (who owned the car for about its whole life) and trying to obtain a detailed list of all maintenance and parts that have been made new.
And supposedly, they replaced the super charger already! I wanna say around 70k miles?
Hopefully they replaced the engine fan also?
#525
If not already, join the MINI Owner's Lounge. There you will be able to see a record of all service done by a MINI dealer on your car.