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High Pressure Fuel Pump Replacement

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  #251  
Old 05-22-2013, 05:01 PM
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UPDATE: The HPFP failure ruined a fuel injector. My dealer got MINI to authorize the walnut shell treatment and the fuel injector replacement, even though the car is six weeks out of warranty (in addition to the covered HPFP). Picked it up today, and the CEL came on while driving back home.

And on it goes (I suspect more plugged injectors or the catalytic converted has failed, but what do I know). Back to the dealer a dawn.
 
  #252  
Old 05-23-2013, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by pmsummer
UPDATE: The HPFP failure ruined a fuel injector. My dealer got MINI to authorize the walnut shell treatment and the fuel injector replacement, even though the car is six weeks out of warranty (in addition to the covered HPFP). Picked it up today, and the CEL came on while driving back home.

And on it goes (I suspect more plugged injectors or the catalytic converted has failed, but what do I know). Back to the dealer a dawn.
UPDATE to the update: Dealership confirmed that the catalytic converter burned up. They now tell me that when the HPFP failed, it was pumping 10 bar/pressure of fuel into the intake. New cat ordered (not in stock).
 
  #253  
Old 05-29-2013, 10:41 AM
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HPFP question

hello forum, does anybody know what's the warranty on the hpfp? first time around.
thanks
 
  #254  
Old 05-29-2013, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by vicsbimmer
hello forum, does anybody know what's the warranty on the hpfp? first time around.
thanks
If you're an owner, you should have received a letter about this. Without running out to my glove compartment, I think it's 10 years, 120,000 miles.
 
  #255  
Old 05-29-2013, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by daffodildeb
If you're an owner, you should have received a letter about this. Without running out to my glove compartment, I think it's 10 years, 120,000 miles.
That's correct, but it may only be for 2007-2009 models.
 
  #256  
Old 05-29-2013, 11:20 AM
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  #257  
Old 10-31-2013, 11:35 AM
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Count me in on HPFP at 27500 miles

Same story here. First noticed highly irritating fume in the cabin. Week later pump failed. Fume is still there though. Dealer has no clue what could cause this failure and how get rid of fume.
 
  #258  
Old 11-28-2013, 08:59 AM
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Mini 2007 s turbo hpfp failure

Originally Posted by pmsummer

I hope this applies to Canada! and if I understand well this applies to models -7-09 which are not under warranty or still are?
I'm undecided about going to Mini or to a regular garage. An estimation for hpfp change in a garage that deals with minis only is 500$ for the piece and an hour of work.
If it applies to Canada it means mini might change it the first time right?
 
  #259  
Old 11-28-2013, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Mini Lila
I hope this applies to Canada! and if I understand well this applies to models -7-09 which are not under warranty or still are?
I'm undecided about going to Mini or to a regular garage. An estimation for hpfp change in a garage that deals with minis only is 500$ for the piece and an hour of work.
If it applies to Canada it means mini might change it the first time right?
I'd call MINI of Canada ASAP and ask them.
 
  #260  
Old 11-28-2013, 06:02 PM
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I have reason to believe that my HPFP is on its way out, periodic misfire in one and sometimes all four cylinders on WOT, I believe there's just not enough fuel pressure being delivered on WOT causing my engine to ping like its running lean which it is. My engine has stopped running on two cold start-ups right after turning it on. I hear some wear noise occurring at or around the HPFP/vacuum pump. Has anyone every had their HPFP go bad without any cells?

1. Had carbon cleaning 1500 miles ago.
2. Timing chain components replaced in June.
 
  #261  
Old 02-09-2014, 01:29 PM
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My HPFP started acting up a month back. The colder it got, the more likely it would start, stumble or stall, and drive poorly until the pump started to warm up. Fuel economy was also getting worse as time went along. I did a hand full of data collections on the motor at start up and found it would not make the 50 bar at idle. Sometimes when it stalled, fuel rail pressure would spike way up just as it stalled. This seemed to match the general information about the pump not making required pressure and possibly the solenoid that directs fuel to the rail sticking.

Ordered a new pump from ECS Tuning and replaced it yesterday. Biggest problem is pulling the fuel feed line off. The connector requires a special tool or a carefully modified cheap clamp to squeeze it just enough to get the catches to release. After a cold soak overnight at 6 degrees it started right up this morning and idled fine.

So, being a curious individual I pulled the old pump apart to see what makes it tick. The attached picture shows the parts I was able to disassemble. From left to right:
1. The drive assembly that fits into the end of the camshaft. The pump interior is a disc tilted about 30 degrees.
2. two pistons with the return springs that fit internal to the pistons. The tops are set on a ball end to follow the drive disk as it spins around.
3. The main body. the two holes in the middle are the bores the two pistons fit into. At the bottom of the bores are complex mechanisms, possibly on a spring. Could not get the bores apart without major effort.
4. Just below the body is the fuel inlet. Note the small filter fitted inside the inlet to catch any random junk that makes it's way past the in tank filter.
5. Next is the oil sump (top). It bathed the pistons and drive disc in oil. The oil sump is an interesting assembly. Its a spring loaded reservoir for the oil that you see in the plastic cup at the far right. The oil is as black as it appears in the picture.
6. The solenoid (bottom) that may be the culprit in the failures. Surprised they don't just replace the solenoid as it is retained by two screws and comes right out without issues.

Would love to have gotten this further apart but some parts appear to be pressed in and I didn't spend the time trying to get it further apart.
 
Attached Thumbnails High Pressure Fuel Pump Replacement-hpfp-disassembled.jpg  
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  #262  
Old 02-09-2014, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by gvcmel
My HPFP started acting up a month back. The colder it got, the more likely it would start, stumble or stall, and drive poorly until the pump started to warm up. Fuel economy was also getting worse as time went along. I did a hand full of data collections on the motor at start up and found it would not make the 50 bar at idle. Sometimes when it stalled, fuel rail pressure would spike way up just as it stalled. This seemed to match the general information about the pump not making required pressure and possibly the solenoid that directs fuel to the rail sticking.

Ordered a new pump from ECS Tuning and replaced it yesterday. Biggest problem is pulling the fuel feed line off. The connector requires a special tool or a carefully modified cheap clamp to squeeze it just enough to get the catches to release. After a cold soak overnight at 6 degrees it started right up this morning and idled fine.

So, being a curious individual I pulled the old pump apart to see what makes it tick. The attached picture shows the parts I was able to disassemble. From left to right:
1. The drive assembly that fits into the end of the camshaft. The pump interior is a disc tilted about 30 degrees.
2. two pistons with the return springs that fit internal to the pistons. The tops are set on a ball end to follow the drive disk as it spins around.
3. The main body. the two holes in the middle are the bores the two pistons fit into. At the bottom of the bores are complex mechanisms, possibly on a spring. Could not get the bores apart without major effort.
4. Just below the body is the fuel inlet. Note the small filter fitted inside the inlet to catch any random junk that makes it's way past the in tank filter.
5. Next is the oil sump (top). It bathed the pistons and drive disc in oil. The oil sump is an interesting assembly. Its a spring loaded reservoir for the oil that you see in the plastic cup at the far right. The oil is as black as it appears in the picture.
6. The solenoid (bottom) that may be the culprit in the failures. Surprised they don't just replace the solenoid as it is retained by two screws and comes right out without issues.

Would love to have gotten this further apart but some parts appear to be pressed in and I didn't spend the time trying to get it further apart.
Glad to hear it went well! Is the new pump different versus the old? How much is a HPFP anyways, not dealer price though? I heard from my local dealer that Mini stopped using the manufacturers that sold the defective ones. The 2013 HFPF's are different looking.
 
  #263  
Old 02-10-2014, 05:53 AM
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The new pump thru ECS Tuning was only $200 which was not bad. Installation was only about an hour discounting the fooling around making a fuel line disconnect tool out of a cheap clamp.

Can't say the new pump looked different from the old pump externally. I just did a quick stare and compare before throwing the new one on the motor.

This morning at 12 degrees it started right up and idled fine. Afraid though the fuel economy is still down (5 mpg below normal). Hate to think I have a faulty fuel injector now to sort out. May be pull the plugs this coming weekend and see if any look suspect.
 
  #264  
Old 03-12-2014, 05:49 AM
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Well, the check engine light came on the other day on my 2011 Clubman S. The car started rough with backfiring after sitting overnight. I took it to the dealer. The dealer told me they had to replace the high pressure fuel pump. The sad thing is that the car only has 13,360 miles on it. Since my car is a 2011, I guess I am out of luck on the 10 year, 120k mile warranty.
 
  #265  
Old 03-12-2014, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by UAL_Kingpin
Well, the check engine light came on the other day on my 2011 Clubman S. The car started rough with backfiring after sitting overnight. I took it to the dealer. The dealer told me they had to replace the high pressure fuel pump. The sad thing is that the car only has 13,360 miles on it. Since my car is a 2011, I guess I am out of luck on the 10 year, 120k mile warranty.
At 13K, you're covered under your standard warranty. The 10 year/120K probably applies as well, but it doesn't kick in until your standard warranty expires.
 
  #266  
Old 03-14-2014, 02:17 PM
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The MCS we bought two days ago has had the HPFP replaced twice already and its only got 36,000 miles on it.

Has this extended warranty been 'extended' to include 2010 models? I only see reference on this thread to 2009 and earlier models. My standard warranty is about to expire.
 
  #267  
Old 03-14-2014, 02:22 PM
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I believe the part is covered for 120K miles, 10 years, which ever comes first. I am inclined to believe there is only one part number, ever. Just had mine replaced on my '08.
 
  #268  
Old 03-14-2014, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Cngizbleevng
The MCS we bought two days ago has had the HPFP replaced twice already and its only got 36,000 miles on it.

Has this extended warranty been 'extended' to include 2010 models? I only see reference on this thread to 2009 and earlier models. My standard warranty is about to expire.
There's another way that you're likely covered. Parts installed by a dealer, which I assume is the case with your car, are covered for 2 years, unlimited mileage.

I'm really surprised that you've had that many problems. Just out of curiosity, what are you feeding your car? And are you running it to near empty before refilling?

I'm on the original equipment for everything (including HPFP) except for spark plugs, one coil, brake pads, timing chain, battery, and routine maintenance items like oil filters, tires, and such. At 98,000 miles, 7 years. I didn't even replace the battery until last fall, and it was still good--I just didn't want to have a problem over the winter, especially in the rural area where I live.
 
  #269  
Old 03-14-2014, 02:32 PM
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In my case, I didn't notice anything until I turned off the Auto\AC on a nice day a couple weeks ago. The idle quality went to *****. I thought my mods messed it up or something and was a little fearful. My dealer offers free car washes, so I thought I go there an get the big chunks taken care of. While I was sitting in the dealer's lane, I got a half-power light. I had them check it and sure enough, that was it. FREE is always good when it comes to car repairs!
 
  #270  
Old 03-14-2014, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by daffodildeb
There's another way that you're likely covered. Parts installed by a dealer, which I assume is the case with your car, are covered for 2 years, unlimited mileage.

I'm really surprised that you've had that many problems. Just out of curiosity, what are you feeding your car? And are you running it to near empty before refilling?

I'm on the original equipment for everything (including HPFP) except for spark plugs, one coil, brake pads, timing chain, battery, and routine maintenance items like oil filters, tires, and such. At 98,000 miles, 7 years. I didn't even replace the battery until last fall, and it was still good--I just didn't want to have a problem over the winter, especially in the rural area where I live.
That's good to know! I'll have to find out when the last pump was put in.

We just bought the car, so I don't know what the previous owners did.
 
  #271  
Old 03-14-2014, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Cngizbleevng
That's good to know! I'll have to find out when the last pump was put in.

We just bought the car, so I don't know what the previous owners did.
I found out in an interesting way. While my car was still under warranty, I replaced the Union Jack mirror covers on my car because the white parts on the top sides had yellowed. A couple of years later under the hot Texas sun, I was seeing the same thing, but by now the warranty had expired. I mentioned it to my dealership's manager, and he asked me when I'd replaced them because he told me parts had a 2 year warranty. I didn't know exactly, but his computer did. Turns out I was about 2 weeks short of 2 years! Voila, brand new mirror covers!

I now live in Arkansas and have plenty of garage space, so I've had no further trouble with yellowing. Something to think about if you're considering them, and your car has to live outside, though.
 
  #272  
Old 03-15-2014, 11:44 AM
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I have had mine replaced twice so far
I only use QT premium fuel and never let the
tank get low. Both times it died was upon start-up.
Once at home in the morning before going to work
and once at the store, towed in for repairs.
 

Last edited by Peanut61; 03-15-2014 at 11:50 AM.
  #273  
Old 03-15-2014, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by gvcmel
My HPFP started acting up a month back. The colder it got, the more likely it would start, stumble or stall, and drive poorly until the pump started to warm up. Fuel economy was also getting worse as time went along. I did a hand full of data collections on the motor at start up and found it would not make the 50 bar at idle. Sometimes when it stalled, fuel rail pressure would spike way up just as it stalled. This seemed to match the general information about the pump not making required pressure and possibly the solenoid that directs fuel to the rail sticking.

Ordered a new pump from ECS Tuning and replaced it yesterday. Biggest problem is pulling the fuel feed line off. The connector requires a special tool or a carefully modified cheap clamp to squeeze it just enough to get the catches to release. After a cold soak overnight at 6 degrees it started right up this morning and idled fine.

So, being a curious individual I pulled the old pump apart to see what makes it tick. The attached picture shows the parts I was able to disassemble. From left to right:
1. The drive assembly that fits into the end of the camshaft. The pump interior is a disc tilted about 30 degrees.
2. two pistons with the return springs that fit internal to the pistons. The tops are set on a ball end to follow the drive disk as it spins around.
3. The main body. the two holes in the middle are the bores the two pistons fit into. At the bottom of the bores are complex mechanisms, possibly on a spring. Could not get the bores apart without major effort.
4. Just below the body is the fuel inlet. Note the small filter fitted inside the inlet to catch any random junk that makes it's way past the in tank filter.
5. Next is the oil sump (top). It bathed the pistons and drive disc in oil. The oil sump is an interesting assembly. Its a spring loaded reservoir for the oil that you see in the plastic cup at the far right. The oil is as black as it appears in the picture.
6. The solenoid (bottom) that may be the culprit in the failures. Surprised they don't just replace the solenoid as it is retained by two screws and comes right out without issues.

Would love to have gotten this further apart but some parts appear to be pressed in and I didn't spend the time trying to get it further apart.
So this is the pump you purchased? http://www.ecstuning.com/ES240641/

It's good to know it's available for under $200!
 

Last edited by Cngizbleevng; 03-16-2014 at 06:51 AM.
  #274  
Old 03-18-2014, 06:43 PM
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I just spoke with a SA today, and he informed me that the 2010 models aren't covered by this extended HPFP warranty.

That ticks me off! It's the same HPFP! It's already been replaced twice on my car with only 36,000 miles on it!

I sure hope they decide to extend the warranty on the 2010 model year cars as well. Unless they changed the pump design, there's no legitimate reason not to.
 
  #275  
Old 03-18-2014, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Cngizbleevng
I just spoke with a SA today, and he informed me that the 2010 models aren't covered by this extended HPFP warranty.

That ticks me off! It's the same HPFP! It's already been replaced twice on my car with only 36,000 miles on it!

I sure hope they decide to extend the warranty on the 2010 model year cars as well. Unless they changed the pump design, there's no legitimate reason not to.
You didn't ask if they'd changed the design?

You never answered my question a few posts ago--what are you feeding your car? And are you running it to near empty before refilling?
 


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