High Pressure Fuel Pump Replacement
#251
UPDATE: The HPFP failure ruined a fuel injector. My dealer got MINI to authorize the walnut shell treatment and the fuel injector replacement, even though the car is six weeks out of warranty (in addition to the covered HPFP). Picked it up today, and the CEL came on while driving back home.
And on it goes (I suspect more plugged injectors or the catalytic converted has failed, but what do I know). Back to the dealer a dawn.
And on it goes (I suspect more plugged injectors or the catalytic converted has failed, but what do I know). Back to the dealer a dawn.
#252
UPDATE: The HPFP failure ruined a fuel injector. My dealer got MINI to authorize the walnut shell treatment and the fuel injector replacement, even though the car is six weeks out of warranty (in addition to the covered HPFP). Picked it up today, and the CEL came on while driving back home.
And on it goes (I suspect more plugged injectors or the catalytic converted has failed, but what do I know). Back to the dealer a dawn.
And on it goes (I suspect more plugged injectors or the catalytic converted has failed, but what do I know). Back to the dealer a dawn.
#255
#257
#258
Mini 2007 s turbo hpfp failure
I hope this applies to Canada! and if I understand well this applies to models -7-09 which are not under warranty or still are?
I'm undecided about going to Mini or to a regular garage. An estimation for hpfp change in a garage that deals with minis only is 500$ for the piece and an hour of work.
If it applies to Canada it means mini might change it the first time right?
#259
I hope this applies to Canada! and if I understand well this applies to models -7-09 which are not under warranty or still are?
I'm undecided about going to Mini or to a regular garage. An estimation for hpfp change in a garage that deals with minis only is 500$ for the piece and an hour of work.
If it applies to Canada it means mini might change it the first time right?
I'm undecided about going to Mini or to a regular garage. An estimation for hpfp change in a garage that deals with minis only is 500$ for the piece and an hour of work.
If it applies to Canada it means mini might change it the first time right?
#260
I have reason to believe that my HPFP is on its way out, periodic misfire in one and sometimes all four cylinders on WOT, I believe there's just not enough fuel pressure being delivered on WOT causing my engine to ping like its running lean which it is. My engine has stopped running on two cold start-ups right after turning it on. I hear some wear noise occurring at or around the HPFP/vacuum pump. Has anyone every had their HPFP go bad without any cells?
1. Had carbon cleaning 1500 miles ago.
2. Timing chain components replaced in June.
1. Had carbon cleaning 1500 miles ago.
2. Timing chain components replaced in June.
#261
My HPFP started acting up a month back. The colder it got, the more likely it would start, stumble or stall, and drive poorly until the pump started to warm up. Fuel economy was also getting worse as time went along. I did a hand full of data collections on the motor at start up and found it would not make the 50 bar at idle. Sometimes when it stalled, fuel rail pressure would spike way up just as it stalled. This seemed to match the general information about the pump not making required pressure and possibly the solenoid that directs fuel to the rail sticking.
Ordered a new pump from ECS Tuning and replaced it yesterday. Biggest problem is pulling the fuel feed line off. The connector requires a special tool or a carefully modified cheap clamp to squeeze it just enough to get the catches to release. After a cold soak overnight at 6 degrees it started right up this morning and idled fine.
So, being a curious individual I pulled the old pump apart to see what makes it tick. The attached picture shows the parts I was able to disassemble. From left to right:
1. The drive assembly that fits into the end of the camshaft. The pump interior is a disc tilted about 30 degrees.
2. two pistons with the return springs that fit internal to the pistons. The tops are set on a ball end to follow the drive disk as it spins around.
3. The main body. the two holes in the middle are the bores the two pistons fit into. At the bottom of the bores are complex mechanisms, possibly on a spring. Could not get the bores apart without major effort.
4. Just below the body is the fuel inlet. Note the small filter fitted inside the inlet to catch any random junk that makes it's way past the in tank filter.
5. Next is the oil sump (top). It bathed the pistons and drive disc in oil. The oil sump is an interesting assembly. Its a spring loaded reservoir for the oil that you see in the plastic cup at the far right. The oil is as black as it appears in the picture.
6. The solenoid (bottom) that may be the culprit in the failures. Surprised they don't just replace the solenoid as it is retained by two screws and comes right out without issues.
Would love to have gotten this further apart but some parts appear to be pressed in and I didn't spend the time trying to get it further apart.
Ordered a new pump from ECS Tuning and replaced it yesterday. Biggest problem is pulling the fuel feed line off. The connector requires a special tool or a carefully modified cheap clamp to squeeze it just enough to get the catches to release. After a cold soak overnight at 6 degrees it started right up this morning and idled fine.
So, being a curious individual I pulled the old pump apart to see what makes it tick. The attached picture shows the parts I was able to disassemble. From left to right:
1. The drive assembly that fits into the end of the camshaft. The pump interior is a disc tilted about 30 degrees.
2. two pistons with the return springs that fit internal to the pistons. The tops are set on a ball end to follow the drive disk as it spins around.
3. The main body. the two holes in the middle are the bores the two pistons fit into. At the bottom of the bores are complex mechanisms, possibly on a spring. Could not get the bores apart without major effort.
4. Just below the body is the fuel inlet. Note the small filter fitted inside the inlet to catch any random junk that makes it's way past the in tank filter.
5. Next is the oil sump (top). It bathed the pistons and drive disc in oil. The oil sump is an interesting assembly. Its a spring loaded reservoir for the oil that you see in the plastic cup at the far right. The oil is as black as it appears in the picture.
6. The solenoid (bottom) that may be the culprit in the failures. Surprised they don't just replace the solenoid as it is retained by two screws and comes right out without issues.
Would love to have gotten this further apart but some parts appear to be pressed in and I didn't spend the time trying to get it further apart.
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cjv2 (01-05-2018)
#262
My HPFP started acting up a month back. The colder it got, the more likely it would start, stumble or stall, and drive poorly until the pump started to warm up. Fuel economy was also getting worse as time went along. I did a hand full of data collections on the motor at start up and found it would not make the 50 bar at idle. Sometimes when it stalled, fuel rail pressure would spike way up just as it stalled. This seemed to match the general information about the pump not making required pressure and possibly the solenoid that directs fuel to the rail sticking.
Ordered a new pump from ECS Tuning and replaced it yesterday. Biggest problem is pulling the fuel feed line off. The connector requires a special tool or a carefully modified cheap clamp to squeeze it just enough to get the catches to release. After a cold soak overnight at 6 degrees it started right up this morning and idled fine.
So, being a curious individual I pulled the old pump apart to see what makes it tick. The attached picture shows the parts I was able to disassemble. From left to right:
1. The drive assembly that fits into the end of the camshaft. The pump interior is a disc tilted about 30 degrees.
2. two pistons with the return springs that fit internal to the pistons. The tops are set on a ball end to follow the drive disk as it spins around.
3. The main body. the two holes in the middle are the bores the two pistons fit into. At the bottom of the bores are complex mechanisms, possibly on a spring. Could not get the bores apart without major effort.
4. Just below the body is the fuel inlet. Note the small filter fitted inside the inlet to catch any random junk that makes it's way past the in tank filter.
5. Next is the oil sump (top). It bathed the pistons and drive disc in oil. The oil sump is an interesting assembly. Its a spring loaded reservoir for the oil that you see in the plastic cup at the far right. The oil is as black as it appears in the picture.
6. The solenoid (bottom) that may be the culprit in the failures. Surprised they don't just replace the solenoid as it is retained by two screws and comes right out without issues.
Would love to have gotten this further apart but some parts appear to be pressed in and I didn't spend the time trying to get it further apart.
Ordered a new pump from ECS Tuning and replaced it yesterday. Biggest problem is pulling the fuel feed line off. The connector requires a special tool or a carefully modified cheap clamp to squeeze it just enough to get the catches to release. After a cold soak overnight at 6 degrees it started right up this morning and idled fine.
So, being a curious individual I pulled the old pump apart to see what makes it tick. The attached picture shows the parts I was able to disassemble. From left to right:
1. The drive assembly that fits into the end of the camshaft. The pump interior is a disc tilted about 30 degrees.
2. two pistons with the return springs that fit internal to the pistons. The tops are set on a ball end to follow the drive disk as it spins around.
3. The main body. the two holes in the middle are the bores the two pistons fit into. At the bottom of the bores are complex mechanisms, possibly on a spring. Could not get the bores apart without major effort.
4. Just below the body is the fuel inlet. Note the small filter fitted inside the inlet to catch any random junk that makes it's way past the in tank filter.
5. Next is the oil sump (top). It bathed the pistons and drive disc in oil. The oil sump is an interesting assembly. Its a spring loaded reservoir for the oil that you see in the plastic cup at the far right. The oil is as black as it appears in the picture.
6. The solenoid (bottom) that may be the culprit in the failures. Surprised they don't just replace the solenoid as it is retained by two screws and comes right out without issues.
Would love to have gotten this further apart but some parts appear to be pressed in and I didn't spend the time trying to get it further apart.
#263
The new pump thru ECS Tuning was only $200 which was not bad. Installation was only about an hour discounting the fooling around making a fuel line disconnect tool out of a cheap clamp.
Can't say the new pump looked different from the old pump externally. I just did a quick stare and compare before throwing the new one on the motor.
This morning at 12 degrees it started right up and idled fine. Afraid though the fuel economy is still down (5 mpg below normal). Hate to think I have a faulty fuel injector now to sort out. May be pull the plugs this coming weekend and see if any look suspect.
Can't say the new pump looked different from the old pump externally. I just did a quick stare and compare before throwing the new one on the motor.
This morning at 12 degrees it started right up and idled fine. Afraid though the fuel economy is still down (5 mpg below normal). Hate to think I have a faulty fuel injector now to sort out. May be pull the plugs this coming weekend and see if any look suspect.
#264
Well, the check engine light came on the other day on my 2011 Clubman S. The car started rough with backfiring after sitting overnight. I took it to the dealer. The dealer told me they had to replace the high pressure fuel pump. The sad thing is that the car only has 13,360 miles on it. Since my car is a 2011, I guess I am out of luck on the 10 year, 120k mile warranty.
#265
Well, the check engine light came on the other day on my 2011 Clubman S. The car started rough with backfiring after sitting overnight. I took it to the dealer. The dealer told me they had to replace the high pressure fuel pump. The sad thing is that the car only has 13,360 miles on it. Since my car is a 2011, I guess I am out of luck on the 10 year, 120k mile warranty.
#266
#267
#268
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Hot Springs Village, AR
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The MCS we bought two days ago has had the HPFP replaced twice already and its only got 36,000 miles on it.
Has this extended warranty been 'extended' to include 2010 models? I only see reference on this thread to 2009 and earlier models. My standard warranty is about to expire.
Has this extended warranty been 'extended' to include 2010 models? I only see reference on this thread to 2009 and earlier models. My standard warranty is about to expire.
I'm really surprised that you've had that many problems. Just out of curiosity, what are you feeding your car? And are you running it to near empty before refilling?
I'm on the original equipment for everything (including HPFP) except for spark plugs, one coil, brake pads, timing chain, battery, and routine maintenance items like oil filters, tires, and such. At 98,000 miles, 7 years. I didn't even replace the battery until last fall, and it was still good--I just didn't want to have a problem over the winter, especially in the rural area where I live.
#269
In my case, I didn't notice anything until I turned off the Auto\AC on a nice day a couple weeks ago. The idle quality went to *****. I thought my mods messed it up or something and was a little fearful. My dealer offers free car washes, so I thought I go there an get the big chunks taken care of. While I was sitting in the dealer's lane, I got a half-power light. I had them check it and sure enough, that was it. FREE is always good when it comes to car repairs!
#270
There's another way that you're likely covered. Parts installed by a dealer, which I assume is the case with your car, are covered for 2 years, unlimited mileage.
I'm really surprised that you've had that many problems. Just out of curiosity, what are you feeding your car? And are you running it to near empty before refilling?
I'm on the original equipment for everything (including HPFP) except for spark plugs, one coil, brake pads, timing chain, battery, and routine maintenance items like oil filters, tires, and such. At 98,000 miles, 7 years. I didn't even replace the battery until last fall, and it was still good--I just didn't want to have a problem over the winter, especially in the rural area where I live.
I'm really surprised that you've had that many problems. Just out of curiosity, what are you feeding your car? And are you running it to near empty before refilling?
I'm on the original equipment for everything (including HPFP) except for spark plugs, one coil, brake pads, timing chain, battery, and routine maintenance items like oil filters, tires, and such. At 98,000 miles, 7 years. I didn't even replace the battery until last fall, and it was still good--I just didn't want to have a problem over the winter, especially in the rural area where I live.
We just bought the car, so I don't know what the previous owners did.
#271
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Hot Springs Village, AR
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I now live in Arkansas and have plenty of garage space, so I've had no further trouble with yellowing. Something to think about if you're considering them, and your car has to live outside, though.
#272
#273
My HPFP started acting up a month back. The colder it got, the more likely it would start, stumble or stall, and drive poorly until the pump started to warm up. Fuel economy was also getting worse as time went along. I did a hand full of data collections on the motor at start up and found it would not make the 50 bar at idle. Sometimes when it stalled, fuel rail pressure would spike way up just as it stalled. This seemed to match the general information about the pump not making required pressure and possibly the solenoid that directs fuel to the rail sticking.
Ordered a new pump from ECS Tuning and replaced it yesterday. Biggest problem is pulling the fuel feed line off. The connector requires a special tool or a carefully modified cheap clamp to squeeze it just enough to get the catches to release. After a cold soak overnight at 6 degrees it started right up this morning and idled fine.
So, being a curious individual I pulled the old pump apart to see what makes it tick. The attached picture shows the parts I was able to disassemble. From left to right:
1. The drive assembly that fits into the end of the camshaft. The pump interior is a disc tilted about 30 degrees.
2. two pistons with the return springs that fit internal to the pistons. The tops are set on a ball end to follow the drive disk as it spins around.
3. The main body. the two holes in the middle are the bores the two pistons fit into. At the bottom of the bores are complex mechanisms, possibly on a spring. Could not get the bores apart without major effort.
4. Just below the body is the fuel inlet. Note the small filter fitted inside the inlet to catch any random junk that makes it's way past the in tank filter.
5. Next is the oil sump (top). It bathed the pistons and drive disc in oil. The oil sump is an interesting assembly. Its a spring loaded reservoir for the oil that you see in the plastic cup at the far right. The oil is as black as it appears in the picture.
6. The solenoid (bottom) that may be the culprit in the failures. Surprised they don't just replace the solenoid as it is retained by two screws and comes right out without issues.
Would love to have gotten this further apart but some parts appear to be pressed in and I didn't spend the time trying to get it further apart.
Ordered a new pump from ECS Tuning and replaced it yesterday. Biggest problem is pulling the fuel feed line off. The connector requires a special tool or a carefully modified cheap clamp to squeeze it just enough to get the catches to release. After a cold soak overnight at 6 degrees it started right up this morning and idled fine.
So, being a curious individual I pulled the old pump apart to see what makes it tick. The attached picture shows the parts I was able to disassemble. From left to right:
1. The drive assembly that fits into the end of the camshaft. The pump interior is a disc tilted about 30 degrees.
2. two pistons with the return springs that fit internal to the pistons. The tops are set on a ball end to follow the drive disk as it spins around.
3. The main body. the two holes in the middle are the bores the two pistons fit into. At the bottom of the bores are complex mechanisms, possibly on a spring. Could not get the bores apart without major effort.
4. Just below the body is the fuel inlet. Note the small filter fitted inside the inlet to catch any random junk that makes it's way past the in tank filter.
5. Next is the oil sump (top). It bathed the pistons and drive disc in oil. The oil sump is an interesting assembly. Its a spring loaded reservoir for the oil that you see in the plastic cup at the far right. The oil is as black as it appears in the picture.
6. The solenoid (bottom) that may be the culprit in the failures. Surprised they don't just replace the solenoid as it is retained by two screws and comes right out without issues.
Would love to have gotten this further apart but some parts appear to be pressed in and I didn't spend the time trying to get it further apart.
It's good to know it's available for under $200!
Last edited by Cngizbleevng; 03-16-2014 at 06:51 AM.
#274
I just spoke with a SA today, and he informed me that the 2010 models aren't covered by this extended HPFP warranty.
That ticks me off! It's the same HPFP! It's already been replaced twice on my car with only 36,000 miles on it!
I sure hope they decide to extend the warranty on the 2010 model year cars as well. Unless they changed the pump design, there's no legitimate reason not to.
That ticks me off! It's the same HPFP! It's already been replaced twice on my car with only 36,000 miles on it!
I sure hope they decide to extend the warranty on the 2010 model year cars as well. Unless they changed the pump design, there's no legitimate reason not to.
#275
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Hot Springs Village, AR
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I just spoke with a SA today, and he informed me that the 2010 models aren't covered by this extended HPFP warranty.
That ticks me off! It's the same HPFP! It's already been replaced twice on my car with only 36,000 miles on it!
I sure hope they decide to extend the warranty on the 2010 model year cars as well. Unless they changed the pump design, there's no legitimate reason not to.
That ticks me off! It's the same HPFP! It's already been replaced twice on my car with only 36,000 miles on it!
I sure hope they decide to extend the warranty on the 2010 model year cars as well. Unless they changed the pump design, there's no legitimate reason not to.
You never answered my question a few posts ago--what are you feeding your car? And are you running it to near empty before refilling?