Chances are, if you have ABS and DSC lights on in your car (sometimes a flat tire warning in with the mix too), it's a problem with your wheel speed sensor. Don't take my word for it though, get your local mechanic/autozone/napa to read the codes that your car has thrown.

If it is indeed the wheel speed sensor, there is hope. While you may not be able to just clean the sensors to fix the problem, replacing them is easy.

Read This:
I will put a disclaimer on this and say that I took my car to an experienced mechanic (Stephen's Garage here in Birmingham, AL who specializes in Mini's). He used a fancy and very expensive diagnostic computer with a touch screen like BMW dealerships have and was able to narrow my speed sensor problem down to the driver's side front tire. I recommend getting your own car tested by a diagnostic computer of this caliber because then you know where the problem is and don't have to play trial and error.

Since I had heard that cleaning these sensors fixes the problem, I thought I'd give that a try first. It worked for a week...lights went away, all was well. As soon as I thought the problem was fixed, it was back again. I'll also take this opportunity to say that if a wheel speed sensor goes bad, you DO lose DSC and ABS to some degree. I don't know if that is completely or if you just lose some functionality. While my sensor was bad and all of these lights were on, I braked rather firmly one day and ended up locking up my brakes and skidding through two construction barrels. Not pleasant. Anyway, on to fixing the problem.

Tools Needed:
Jack (I used the OEM Jack that Mini gives you to change flats)
Lug Nut Wrench (Also OEM)
Phillips Head Screwdriver (ONE THAT FITS)
5mm? Allen Wrench (I used a 3/4 inch allen wrench but you're probably better off with the 5mm. 3/4 doesn't fit quite perfectly. I think 5mm is the actual size but this is just a guess)

Step 1: Identify the tire with the defective speed sensor...here is mine.
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/mi...31/dsc3815.jpg

Step 2: Loosen the lug nuts just 1 turn, jack up the car at the jack point nearest the wheel with the defective speed sensor and then loosen the bolts all the way and remove the wheel. Make sure you don't rotate the rotor too much. With the passenger side front wheel on the ground, rotating the driver's side front without a differential isn't good.
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/mi...31/dsc3817.jpg

Step 3: With the wheel removed, you can now see the lines leading to your rotor. The one on top is your wheel speed sensor, the line running to your caliper is of course your brake/abs line.
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/mi...26/dsc3828.jpg

Step 4: Look behind the rotor on top (I believe it may be in a different location for the rear wheels...let me know) and you will see a screw requiring the 5mm allen wrench. Remove the screw. You can now grip the part where the screw was inserted and twist it back and forth while pulling upward.
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/mi...10/dsc3827.jpg

Step 5: With the sensor removed, you can clean it if you choose. It's deceiving. They do look really dirty...but i cleaned the sensor and the slot that it came out of very thoroughly and it was only a temporary fix.

This concludes the cleaning procedure. Like I said...it didn't work for me. I ended up having to replace mine. Should you choose to replace it, read on.

Step 6: Remove all plastic screws that holds your wheel well trim on. There are also two metal screws on the top and one hiding under the front bumper/air splitter. PLEASE believe me when I say use a screwdriver that fits. The plastic screws strip more easily than a stripper at a night club. I RUINED at least 3 in order to do this writeup because I was trying to do it fast and used a power tool. Huge mistake. Unscrew the plastic screw and then remove the "nut" that it was threaded through. These should come out easily...you just have to get your fingers behind them. They will not however come out easily if you have stripped the screws...so don't mess it up. I mean it.
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/mi...26/dsc3829.jpg

Step 7: With the screws all out you can slowly peel away the wheel well cover. After it is removed, you can follow the speed sensor line to a blue connector. This connector has a clip that you must depress before pulling it out. Make sure to undo all of the rubber ties to remove it.
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/mi...31/dsc3838.jpg

Step 8: Put it all back together. If you need help doing this...you probably shouldn't have done this project. Just playin.

Send me an email for clarification or if you have any more questions. I'm happy to help.

David Butler
dsbutle1@samford.edu

 

Thanks for the detailed write up on this! The light trifecta hit me over the weekend and I've been trying to research what it could be. Plenty of people are saying it's the wheel speed sensor, so that's what I'm going with. I'm hoping that they just need a good cleaning!

PS. The pictures are extremely helpful!

 

Well, I just did all the work cleaning the sensors and their seats but alas, I still have all three lights lit on the dash. I'm guessing this can only mean that one of the sensors has failed?

The sensors on the rear are in fact in a different location, but once you find the sensors on the front, finding the rears are easy. I took a photo just to give some extra reference.

 

Do you know if you have to reset something after replacing the wheel speed sensor on the mini?
I was not sure which sensor was faulty so I jacked up the front left side and replaced the sensor and started the car while it was still jacked up.
The sensor lights were still on.
So I replaced everything and tried the new sensor on the front right side with the same results.
Should the lights immediately go off?

 

I would think that once the sensor was replaced the lights should go off. Perhaps being a speed sensor though, the wheel needs to rotate a bit so the car can begin receiving signals from the newly replaced sensor?

I do know that I cleaned all mine then went for a drive around the neighborhood just to be sure and my lights were still on.

 

Looks like I'm on a countdown to replacing the front driver's side speed sensor. I get the light trifecta once every couple of weeks, and I scanned the codes at a local mechanic with the BMW diagnostic tool. Eventually they just go away in my case, but come back every so often.

How much does a replacement sensor cost (more or less)?

 

They cost about $130 each.

Make sure you both clean the sensor, AND unplug it and clean the plug with electrical contact cleaner and reassemble with dielectric grease (on the plug, not on the sensor itself).

Mine was intermittent like yours for quite a while... after doing the above, no issues in the past year.

 

The nearest MINI dealer is hours away from me.

Is there another option besides the MINI dealer for getting this scanned to tell me which sensor(s) are faulty?

 

I'm in the same situation. The nearest dealer is a few hours away, and there is only one MINI certified shop in town, so they're basically running a monopoly. They want $110 just to hook up to the diagnostics computer! I haven't been able to find any other place that can read the MINI.

 

MOST BMW specialist can do it no problem....the computer and the software is the same (for gen1 anyway, but I would assume the newer cars are too).

 

I'm from Birmingham too. Its good to know there is a mechanic there that specializes in minis! I have an r56 and currently have 2 codes popping (only at start up.)

1. the low tire sensor pops up on the tach computer screen but doesnt on the center stack spot where it should as if there is a flat tire.

2. The emergency brake light on the tach stays lit at all times. It throws the symbol showing a car on a lift.

The suspension is heavily modded, so i wouldnt dare take it to the dealer. Any suggestions?

 

Anybody know which OBD software will tell specifically which sensor is faulty?

 

Before spending the big bucks, take Blimey's advice and give it a go. I did and all is well. It is a very easy DIY.

 

Ditto

 

Thanks very much for posting this DIY.

I've recently had the three lights come on in my 2004 R53 and, though my knowledge is pretty entry-level, I'm thinking about attempting this fix on my own. I know that at least the front driver's side sensor isn't working because I had it into a shop for normal balance and rotation, and the mechanic showed me where the clip holding the sensor to the wheel had broken off.

Two questions for those who have done this before:

1) Is it possible that it's just the clip and not the sensor itself that's broken? Do they sell these clips individually, do they come with sensor cables, or would I need to replace something more extensive than the sensor as shown in this DIY? (I know that's more than one question, but they all seem to fit together.)

2) A local independent shop said that they could replace the sensor, but that then they'd have to reprogram the car for the light to go off. Is this normally the case, or would the light go off automatically when the new sensor is installed?

 

If you replaced the correct sensor (fixed the fault) the light goes off after you drive a short distance. Guess the computer is checking the values. If you really pay attention, you can hear the ABS pump give a little test rumble in those first few feet, also...

Some BMW also require you to turn the steering wheel from lock to lock to initialize the steering angle sensor. Don't recall if MINI requires that, but it wouldn't hurt.

 

I've had the car side of the electrical connector go bad. Replacements sockets/pins/etc are available at the dealer for a few bucks. They have to be soldered in. Look for bent/ broken pins or crumbly plastic

 

No DSC on my R50 but I do get the double- the ABS and Tire light come on together. Not every time I drive but probably once a day at least. Restarting the car clears the code until next time. Sometimes in the morning I get just the ABS light for a half a block or so, then it goes off.

Will my handheld code reader tell me which sensor it is or do I need to go to a shop with a more comprehensive tester? Will the car store the codes or do I need to plug into the OBD port when they are lit?

Thanks-

Val

 

I know if you have a BMW reader it'll tell you which one, but not sure about a generic one and codes are stored until cleared. Can always plug it in and see what it says. You could also test the resistance and see which one is bad that way. Good info about it here in this NAM thread. ABS sensors here if needed.

 

After this started I got the scraping sound coming from the rear brakes. But I just took a look at them, I thought. Actually taking the wheel off and the brakes apart revealed why I thought they were good- the inside pad was worn down to the metal and the outside pad was at least 50%.

Step back in time a few years when I had to do an emergency rear brake job on my car while we were on a trip to see my mom in the midwest. Emergency because I didn't bother to inspect the car fully before we left. Anyway, 1500 miles from home in North Dakota and I had to replace the brakes with what was available that day. Cheap junk from O'reillys was put in and lasted until now, but it wore very poorly. After tearing down and inspecting (and ordering EBC brake parts from minicarparts.net tomorrow) I noticed that I don't get the warning lights anymore. It's only been a day but they were coming on right away and the minute you stepped on the brakes. I can only surmise that the ABS system thought the poor rear braking action brought about by the uneven wear was a wheel that was skidding or not skidding or whatever.

Not sure why the tire light was coming on as well but they have been off since I pulled the pads and put them back on. If this changes I will come back here to edit this.

So if you are getting warning lights check your pads for uneven wear. And use good quality brake pads- they wear much better.

Val

 

Check your slider pins - inside being worn indicates that the piston is pushing, but the caliper isn't transferring the force to the outside. That, and the pads could be crap.

 

OK, that was bogus as you might have suspected. Neither the inspecting or the replacing of the rear brakes took care of the ABS light. My right front sensor was bad, diagnosed by wiggling the wire and having the light turn on. If you have the ABS/DSC/tire light coming on try wiggling the wires for the sensor one at a time- you will find the bad one that way.

Val

 

Zombie thread revival and cross posting for updated images and how-to for future searches on the topic.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4203102

Happy Motoring!

 

ok, so where do I start. Similar issue as above but issue is not fixed by replacing speed sensors. I have the brake/abs/traction/check engine lights on. After scanning it with my tools and determining it was the driver side rear speed sensor i replaced it with one from autozone. No fix. decided to do the passenger side rear. No fix. I then checked with a volt meter both cables. 14.2-14.3 volts. Ohm out the old and new sensors. Couldn't find a thing wrong. Decided to go to the dreaded dealer to have them scan it. Scan came back saying I was seeing speed when the car wasn't moving and needed new rear sensors. When I told them i already replaced them they said you can't trust those, buy hours for double the price. I did not win the argument as they would just walk away when i told them the sensors are not the issue. I bought the over priced mini sensors. No fix. The car runs perfectly fine, no issues other than the fact that with these alerts i am punished with no cruise control. Has anyone ever seen this issue. I am going back to the dealer to get my 395.00 back tomorrow but i want them to help diagnose this and not just buy expensive parts. In MA if you have these lights you can't get a passing inspection which will junk this car. 2014 Countryman S with just over 100K on it.

 

Did you ever find a solution? I too have replaced the speed sensor

in my case 5DB3 rear left

I then switched out the bearing for a new one

yet I still have the abs and traction light
when I start driving the tyre pressure sensor comes on

i have reset the lights with the scan tool, however they quickly return

a mini nightmare