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  #1  
Old 05-24-2009, 05:54 AM
xenocide xenocide is offline
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How to remove passenger side drive axle?

I've got a 2003 MCS; what do you have to remove to get at the carrier bearing on the passenger CV axle? Can I remove the Power Steering fan or is there another technique?

Thanks in advance. I know I need to get a hanyes or bentley manual but so far I've never had the need.
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  #2  
Old 05-24-2009, 08:50 AM
miminut miminut is offline
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Bentley

If you live in the Bay Area I'll lend you my Bentley.No mention of removing PS fan though you will be required to drain the transmission; loossen flanged nut on wheel hub; Remove brake caliper; remove steering tie rod; undo ABS sensor; Remove outer control arm ball joint.
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:37 AM
xenocide xenocide is offline
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Thanks for the offer, but I'm in WI so I can't take you up on that.
I'm replacing the wheel bearing too so I already had the knuckle removed as well as the ball joint etc. I didn't know I needed to drain the trans fluid though so thanks for that! I just can't see a way to get at the bolts (specifically the upper one) on the passenger axle carrier bearing so I can then pull the assembly out of the trans.
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Old 05-24-2009, 06:36 PM
Alan Alan is offline
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You do need to remove the power steering fan. That's what I had to do to pull the drive shaft and replace the boot. You do NOT need to drain the transmission fluid.

I was able to get the upper bolt with a long (6 in. I think) extension. It had to be done by feel cause there is very little room. Getting it back in and started is even more fun. Fortunately I had access to a lift.

Alan
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Old 05-25-2009, 03:13 PM
xenocide xenocide is offline
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Thanks Alan, that's what I was looking for. Now I just need time to tackle it.

Any hints on the process of replacing the boot? I'm pulling the axle because the boot closest to the carrier bearing has a very small leak that just started and I'm hoping to rebuild it (got the OEM boot kit from MINI) but I haven't done an axle boot before. I've found several online pictorials which I'm hoping will help.
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:20 PM
Alan Alan is offline
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Its very straight forward. Undo the clasp that holds the boot on. Remove the old boot / squeeze all the grease in / attach clasp to the new boot. Make sure you use the correct grease!!! Different grease for transmission side boot vs. wheel bearing side boot.

Alan
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Old 05-29-2009, 06:09 AM
techtipz techtipz is offline
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You can leave the axle in the car. Remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle, removed the caliper bracket and the rotor. Than remove the 4 13mm bolts from the wheel hub/bearing assembly. You should be able to rotate and get the axle around the replace the outer boot.
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  #8  
Old 10-28-2013, 10:08 AM
brettjameson brettjameson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techtipz View Post
You can leave the axle in the car. Remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle, removed the caliper bracket and the rotor. Than remove the 4 13mm bolts from the wheel hub/bearing assembly. You should be able to rotate and get the axle around the replace the outer boot.
All extra work....just the brake caliber, lower control arm ball joint nuts, and axle nut...power steering fan and 3 shaft bolts....that's it.
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Old 11-03-2013, 08:44 AM
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Quitman Rhinehardt Quitman Rhinehardt is offline
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I didn't touch the power steering fan or the caliper when I did mine. I just removed the outer ball joint, tie-rod, axle nut, and the lower motor mount for some extra room.
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:17 AM
tbearmini tbearmini is offline
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Hate to step in with another question but is it the same for a '06 non-S? Heard clicking noise making turns in the parking deck today.
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:45 PM
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ACallahan ACallahan is offline
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I think basically the same.
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:34 PM
tbearmini tbearmini is offline
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Thanks. Maybe I'll get lucky and it will be the driver side. Not looking forward to this. Was thinking of going with NAPA rebuilt ones since 1/4 the price of rebuilt OEM.
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Old 11-08-2013, 03:21 AM
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Quitman Rhinehardt Quitman Rhinehardt is offline
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Yeah the procedure is the same but the axles are different. Make sure you get the right ones and compare to the old one. Also check the splines and the snap ring on the new axle. I had problems getting mine in. Turned out the snap ring was a little bigger than the old one. Had to swap them.
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Old 11-08-2013, 04:44 AM
tbearmini tbearmini is offline
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Weird, no more clicking sound. Drove in circles in the parking deck to try to see if it would happen again but nothing. It was definitely a mechanical clicking noise before. Rotated the tires on that side when I got home and checked the axle boots. They look perfect.

Not sure what to do at this point.
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:53 AM
mikeson mikeson is offline
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Found this.


R53 DIY MINI Copper S Drive Shaft Axel Boot Removal Procedure the easy way - YouTube
"> R53 DIY MINI Copper S Drive Shaft Axel Boot Removal Procedure the easy way - YouTube
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  #16  
Old 12-01-2013, 07:51 PM
tbearmini tbearmini is offline
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Thanks. Going to have to replace my passenger side axle. Have been getting a vibration when car is turning to the right (and noise) which goes away when driving straight ahead.

Not good because I have to leave for Orlando on Saturday.
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  #17  
Old 12-03-2013, 04:31 PM
tbearmini tbearmini is offline
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I'm in love...

For the axle nut, I've read where the car has to be on the ground. My wheels don't have a center cap for that. Will I need someone to hold the brake pedal down?

Nevermind - I remembered the HF impact wrench that I bought and never used. Five seconds, that was awesome!

Last edited by tbearmini; 12-03-2013 at 05:02 PM.
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  #18  
Old 12-18-2013, 06:28 PM
tbearmini tbearmini is offline
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Dust cover

Got the axle in but I must have damaged the seal (big leak). Bought the OEM seal but didn't have time to take it all apart again so took it to a garage. They wouldn't use my part but the seal they bought didn't fit so it leaked again.

They finally used my seal and it's not leaking now but I looked under the car and the dust cover is gone (I mangled it up when I put the old one back on). I do not want to take it apart again. Any ideas of how to rig something up or could I get away without it?
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:05 AM
tbearmini tbearmini is offline
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Well, I think I am going to get a new cover and try to cut it and fit it or buy a rubberized gasket maker and just cover the area.
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  #20  
Old 12-19-2013, 09:17 AM
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BlwnAway BlwnAway is online now
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The only "possible" patch would be if you had an old boot, trim the ends off (where the clamps go) split it open completely, clean both boots really well (outside of the one on the car, inside of the patch boot) put silicone all over the inside of the patch boot & wrap it around the other with the split 180° from the crack, then zip tie it together.
It would be a long shot, but worse case, you have to take out apart & fix it right anyway.
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:52 AM
tbearmini tbearmini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlwnAway View Post
The only "possible" patch would be if you had an old boot, trim the ends off (where the clamps go) split it open completely, clean both boots really well (outside of the one on the car, inside of the patch boot) put silicone all over the inside of the patch boot & wrap it around the other with the split 180° from the crack, then zip tie it together.
It would be a long shot, but worse case, you have to take out apart & fix it right anyway.
Sorry, probably described it poorly. The metal dust cover (the metal ring) where the axle shaft goes into the transmission is missing. Since it covers the actual seal I didn't know how critical to replace it versus cutting something out and trying to cover it up.
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  #22  
Old 12-19-2013, 10:33 AM
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Oops, thought you were talking about the boot itself, but go ahead & give it a try, again, worse case, you have to pull it & replace it, just keep it clean & watch it carefully.
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:33 AM
 
 
 
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