I am going to be replacing my head gasket soon and am trying to compile a list of all the parts I need to complete the task. While searching I found two gasket kits, but I am unsure what exactly they include. The part numbers are 11127508545 and 11120147561. Does anyone know of a DIY or thread on this subject? Also, what bolts need to be replaced when changing the head gasket? Any help is appreciated.

 

you will need a head gasket
supplys to do a coolant flush (coolant)
I would change the oil...
So oil and filter.
Exhaust gasket.
Intake manifold gasket
and a valve cover gasket just cause.
Other than that i think that covers it.
Anyone else want to drop in?

 

You sometimes need to replace head bolts when you pull a head. I do not know if that is the case with the MINI but that is something to find out.

 

I guess I probably should have mentioned what parts I already have on my list...

• Head Gasket (0.65mm) 11127508543
• Valve Cover Gasket 11121485838
• Spark Plug Tube Seals 11127513066 x4
• Oil Cap Seal 11127514981
• VCG Bolt 11121487179 x9
• VCG Threaded Rod 11121487178 x3
• PCV 11127829990
• PCV Hose 11157510750
• Intake Manifold Gasket 11617513044 x4
• Exhaust Manifold Gasket 11621174968

What I would really like to know is what the "gasket set kits" are. They have the following part numbers...

• Gasket Set w/o Head Gasket 11127508545
• Gasket Kit w/ Head Gasket 11120147561

 

I would add a flat edge and a set of feeler gauges to confirm the flatness of the deck and head. I didn't see a torque wrench on that list.

YD

 

Usually a head gasket set just includes the intake / exhaust gaskets and the head gasket, and any other random gasket material particular to the head.

Why are you replacing the head gasket?

 

lol, I didn't think you guys would want to see the list of tools I would be using. I only included the parts needed.

I ended up ordering the "kit", so when I find out what exactly is included, I will let you guys know for future reference.

The motor never overheated, so in theory the head should not be warped, but I will check it anyway.

I am changing the head gasket because I have a small but annoying coolant leak.



So far, I have removed the valve cover gasket and am figuring out how I should copy the BMW special tool that enables you to loosen the camshaft gear from the camshaft. I figure an aluminum or steel plate with two bolts tapped through it.

 

If I only had a very small coolant leak, I would consider using some JB stop leak.... works great and a lot less work than removing the head. If in fact it did not stop the leak, then you could remove the head. JB is the only brand I would consider.

YD

 

All you really need is the Head gasket!! The rest of the gaskets.. intake/ exhaust/ valve cover gasket have been and are being re-used by a lot of people ( RTV on the header and intake , and the stock valve cover and plug tube seals are re usable!!) OR change them all!! cool??

The head bolts NEED to be changed ( torque to yield) up grade to the ARP studs ( $100-130.00 a set)

Just a thought..

Thumper

 

Although I would normally agree with you, I decided to fix the problem for good rather than band-aid it with some JB. Removing the head off this car doesn't seem that bad.

Thanks for the info Thumper. I believe the head "kit" I bought from BMW includes the valve cover gasket, tube seals, in/ex man. gaskets, etc. so I guess I will replace them while I am there. Although I did notice they were still in pretty good condition considering it has over 100k miles.

Good call on the head bolts as well, I ended up adding them to my order too. 12 total, correct? What advantage is there to aftermarket head bolts?

Oh, and I believe the "kit" I bought includes new valve seals. Are those a PITA to replace?

 

The OEM head bolts (10) are single use bolts; they have an initial torque value followed by a torque angle value of 90 degrees, this applies tension to (or beyond) the metal's stretch threshold, the difference between the expansion of aluminum and cast iron usually stretches the OEM bolt further. ARP head bolts and studs can tolerate a second application of torque many heat cycles later after the gasket has compressed (which is what you should do as a follow up). Studs apply less stress to the block’s threads and can handle more uses than bolts, ARP bolts can be reused a couple times and the studs twice that much before risking stretch.

You should get the Bentley service manual; the TIS is slow to navigate through. The valve guide seals are not difficult with the proper tools. Both the Bentley and TIS will show the tools needed.

I recommend having the head pressure tested while off the vehicle, have a crack test, vacuum test, pressure test, and the head deck measured for deviation, you can have the engine builder performing the tests replace the seals at the same time. I also recommend replacing the cam tensioner 11317510801 and cam bolt 07137829910.

 

He has an R50. Did you get the TIS working Gio?

 

I guess that might have been better to know before I bought the 10 OEM bolts, lol. Knowing that the head gasket compresses a little after some time, should I torque it just slightyly more than 90 degrees to compensate for that? I really don't feel like taking off the valve cover later just to re-tighten.

I checked the TIS for help on the valve seals, and it seems like you would need 10 BMW special tools to accomplish the job. Any way of getting around some of them, or generic tools that do the same thing?



Yes, thanks again for that. I really appreciate it.

 

No, 30 ft-lb + 90 degrees. There's nothing wrong with the OEM bolts, you asked for the advantages of aftermarket alternatives.

 

Ok, so I finally finished the job.

I ended up replacing the following:
-headgasket (with new OEM head bolts)
-vave seals
-valve cover gasket
-spark plug tube seals
-valve cover gasket bolts & grommets
-intake manifold gasket
-exhaust manifold gasket
-throttle body gasket
-PCV & hose
-various other o-rings and seals that were removed to gain access to the head

Everything went pretty smoothly except for 1 thing. ...

The cam chain tensioner re-installation instructions (per BMW TIS) mentioned to compress the tensioner and install it in a compressed state and then stick a long bar into the cam chain cavity to push up against it to release it from it's compressed state (and subsequently put tension on the cam chain). I was able to get it into it's compressed state, but was not able to release it from that state by just pushing on it. So I installed it un-compressed and just made sure the cam chain felt like it had tension on it. I don't know if the TIS instructions were over-complicating things, or if that really is a required step for proper installation? Anyone know?

I will update this thread later today with some picture I took of the process.

 

Oil pressure upon start-up will extend the cam chain tensioner.

 

Your almost there. If you look at the stress/strain curve of most metals (can be seen here), you notice the initial constant slope. This is the elastic region where you can apply force and then release and the material will go back to it's original state. Once you apply enough force to enter the non-linear portion, it becomes plastic. The material will not recover and remain deformed. Re-usable fasteners such as the ARP studs must be used within the elastic region. Torque-to-yield fasteners go past the elastic region into the plastic zone. This is why they can only be used once but also allows them to exert more force than standard fasteners since the curve continues to increase even though the bolt is being plastically deformed.

Also, studs do protect the block's threads but not necessarily from stress. You weaken the threads every time you loosen and tighten a fastener. Adding studs makes the studs the sacrificial part and the threads in the engine are spared from future disassemblies.

At least this is what was explained to me by a guy who knows more about engines in his right pinky than the entirety of most people.

 

Roger that on the tensionar... I just back the sucker out a bit... make the cam and gear change.. then tighten it back up!!

was a fun deal ..huh??

Now enjoy the drive!!

Just me..........................

Thumper

 

To answer your question about the TIS over-complicating things yeah it absolutely does in many of the repairs.

 

Pictures as promised....

 

Nice work! Should be good as new!

 

Thank you for posting this thread. I was told today that my head gasket was blown, $2700 quote. I am a DYI'er and am considering taking it on. I tried to also get a list of parts on what was included in this kit but no luck until I came across this post. I did come across the timing tool kit @ http://www.kochtools.com/index.php?p=product&id=104, it looks pretty good. I have the Bentley book (that I have used many times) and it looks like it will be pretty involved but doable.
I plan to do a compression test before I tear into it because the shop is basing their diagnosis on the color of the coolant. It has me a little doubtful.
Thanks again for the info!

 

I have a head gasket leak in my 2003 R50 MINI. It's external and small, in fact, it seals itself shut
within about 5 miles of driving as the engine gets up to operating temperature.
If I'm going to have the head gasket replaced, I'd like to put in a ported and polished head optimized for
midrange power and a mild cam (Crower NS1).
I'll be using a non-dealer shop and live about an hour plus from the dealer, so getting the parts
all lined up in advance saves a lot of time and waiting.
Here's my thoughts on a part list for cylinder head replacement - I'd like anyone with some
experience to comment further.

- Head gasket 0.65 mm 11127508543 (have to replace this)

- Cylinder head bolts 07131487226 x 10 or ARP stud kit 201-4301
- or ARP head bolt kit 206-3601.
Can anyone expand on the advantages of these options - I think most would
agree not to re-use cylinder head bolts. The ARP stud kit would come with the head I'm considering,
along with the head, valve cover, exhaust and intake gaskets.

Bentley says always replace these:
- Sealing washers to threaded plugs at front of cylinder head 11317514982 x 2
- Camshaft pulse generator o-ring 12147514984

Most but not all would replace the following:
- Valve cover gasket 11121485838
- Intake manifold gaskets 11617513044 x 4
- Exhaust Manifold gasket 11621174968
- Thermostat gasket (with thermostat) 11537596787

Do these need to be replaced?
- Exhaust manifold flange bolts 0136800269 x 8 (I'll bet the heat can do a number on these)
- Intake manifold bolts 07131500899 x 5
- Cam cap bolts 07131500901 x 10
- Two other bolts like above but shorter for cylinder head 11317829911
- Valve cover bolts 11121487179 x 8
- and longer studs for valve cover 11121487178 x 4
- Spark plug tube seals 11127513066 x 4
- Oil filler cap seal 11127514981
- fuel injector o-rings 13641437474 x 4


So of all these, which are essential, which are recommended, which are superfluous, and which have I missed?

 

I would recommend replacing the following:

-headgasket (with new OEM head bolts)
-vave seals
-valve cover gasket
-spark plug tube seals
-valve cover gasket bolts & grommets
-intake manifold gasket
-exhaust manifold gasket
-throttle body gasket
-PCV & hose

Replacing anything else is certainly not going to hurt, but I don't think it is really crucial.

I didn't get ARP head bolts because it is a stock car and OEM is proven to work, so no problems there.