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I noticed that the above instructions did not include running the engine and shifting transmission through all CVT modes, monitoring temperature of the fluid, etc. all while the car is up on a lift. Prior to this they also attached front rotors to axle hubs using four bolts and washers?
Anyway, if it's simply a CVT replacement I could do it but if it requires a lift and fancy shifting through gears, electronics, etc. I'd leave it to either the dealer or a local shop. Does anyone know if the Bentley book instructions are what a mini dealer or good local shop would do?
I'm far from the nearest dealer and would likely rather take it to a local shop to be done if it's not as simple as the link above demonstrates. Is the general consensus to take it to a shop or are there any owners that have repleced the fluid for an R50 on their own?
I noticed that the above instructions did not include running the engine and shifting transmission through all CVT modes, monitoring temperature of the fluid, etc. all while the car is up on a lift. Prior to this they also attached front rotors to axle hubs using four bolts and washers?
Anyway, if it's simply a CVT replacement I could do it but if it requires a lift and fancy shifting through gears, electronics, etc. I'd leave it to either the dealer or a local shop. Does anyone know if the Bentley book instructions are what a mini dealer or good local shop would do?
I'm far from the nearest dealer and would likely rather take it to a local shop to be done if it's not as simple as the link above demonstrates. Is the general consensus to take it to a shop or are there any owners that have repleced the fluid for an R50 on their own?
Thanks in advance.
Did I miss something here or didn't the link say that the instructions were for a manual
Yes, bad link. I'm looking for information on how to change a mini cooper non-S CVT transmission fluid. Above I meant that the directions for a mini cooper S / agitronic transmission was recommended as being for the life of the CVT (Bentley Manual). Please disregard above link.
Mini Cooper non-S CVT fluid change information is what I'm looking for.
Yes, bad link. I'm looking for information on how to change a mini cooper non-S CVT transmission fluid. Above I meant that the directions for a mini cooper S / agitronic transmission was recommended as being for the life of the CVT (Bentley Manual). Please disregard above link.
Mini Cooper non-S CVT fluid change information is what I'm looking for.
Thanks
I'm with you on this one. My wife has an 05MC and I too need to know the particulars on the fluid change.
That's great, thanks! Seems similar to the Bentley Manual. More than I'd like to handle for my first attempt. However, I think I'll pass along the directions to a local mechanic to see if they're able to do the change for me. If I had access to my own lift I might just have tried to do it myself.
Thanks again!
By the way, what type of online program / manual where you able to get the instructions from? Is this something that only mini dealers have access to?
Sounds good. If you happen to figure ii out I'm sure there'd be a bunch of us interested in the DIY instructions.
Any other thoughts out there? I think I'll chat with one of the local mechanics tomorrow.
Hey I got my fluid for 20 bucks a liter and you run the car on jack stands after you fill it you leave the filler hole open to purge any traped air in the system. The mini dealer by my house only charges 180 for the service
I see some of the pic links are gone for this thread. Anybody have any update on changing the CVT tranny fluid yourself and/or can you repost the missing pics? thanks
Hey, also, are there now suitable substitutes for the CVT fluid that come from other sources than BWM/Mini? Here's a couple links to what appears to be alternatives:
There are two ways to fill the CVT. (1) From the fill hole on the pan, or (2) from the fill hole on the top of the CVT. I choose (2) because it is awkward to add the fluid from the bottom unless you fix up some kind of hose to pour it in.
To use the top fill, you must take out the battery box to get to the hex plug. This plug is a tight fit, requiring me to use a breaker bar. Removing the battery box involves disconnecting a couple of electrical connectors, but it's not too hard.
Measure how much you drain. It should be 4.5 quarts. The easy way is to just add 4.5 quarts of new stuff. The business about shifting the gears, etc., is overkill if you are just doing a drain and refill. If you fill from the top, you can still use the bottom fill hole to check the fluid level.
I also did the filter which requires taking off the pan. It was very hard to take out some of the 10mm bolts, so this could be frustrating. It is doubtful that you will ever need to change the filter.
It is doubtful that you will ever need to change the filter.
Was your used filter pretty clean?
Usually changing filters for things at some point would be regular maintenance. I'm at 114k miles and thinking a new filter with my next fluid change might not be a bad idea.
The filter is encased in a metal housing, so I couldn't see much. Mine had only 40K miles, so you have more reason than I to change the filter. Nevertheless, I have not seen any recommendation that you need to change this filter, and it's a bear to do.
The filter is encased in a metal housing, so I couldn't see much. Mine had only 40K miles, so you have more reason than I to change the filter. Nevertheless, I have not seen any recommendation that you need to change this filter, and it's a bear to do.
I also haven't seen any recommendation to change it. Even the official document from ZF only mentions fluid changes every 45,000km. It still seems like something that should be done at some point, but when that is is anyone's guess.
What else would be involved for the filter change besides the 10mm bolts tightened almost beyond the ability to be loosened?
It's not that the bolts are too tight, it's that a couple of the bolts are almost impossible to get at with a socket or wrench. The official way to take off the CVT pan involves removing sub frame parts.
It's not that the bolts are too tight, it's that a couple of the bolts are almost impossible to get at with a socket or wrench. The official way to take off the CVT pan involves removing sub frame parts.
I see - I'll have to take a look at this next time I'm under the car. With the difficulty of getting at them, did you concede and end up removing any of the sub frame parts?
There are a few jobs when the official way calls for removing subframe parts when it certainly does not need to be done - I think the inner tie rods are one example.
I was able to get all the bolts off. I took a 10mm 1/4" socket, ground a side flat so that I could get the socket on the bolt and turned it with an open end wrench. It can be done.
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'04 MC Red/White CVT
Last edited by Tahoe_Ron; 02-03-2011 at 05:48 PM.
Reason: typo
Is there a how to for this in the Bentley Manual? My nearest dealership is 2 hours away and wants $500 for all the parts, fluid, and labor. That seems outrageous. I'd love to take on this project myself some part #'s and pics that give us a step-by-step would be VERY helpful.
Only thing I wouldn't recommend following is his fluid recommendation. I would use either the recommended Esso fluid or a non-slip CVT fluid. Redline makes one which I plan on using.
Also, there seems to be a consensus that you should overfill the fluid, run the car a little, go through all the gear ratios (manual mode), and then open the "fill" plug further up from the drain plug to let the extra fluid drain out. Once the extra fluid drains, you should be good to go.
This picture I grabbed from another forum post somewhere might help.
I would do your filling from the plug on top of the transmission, not the "fill" plug in the above picture. It should be much easier to get to and fill from than the "fill" plug. To get to it, you just have to remove the battery box.
2003 MC CVT BRG - 121000 miles
