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My '04 MCS lost the lighting behind the right side of the manual heater A/C control panel. The dealer and the popular wisdom both seemed to say that the only answer was to replace the control unit. Since I hate throwing money at a repair needlessly and felt it was probably no more than a blown bulb, I started digging into it. I found a forum post on another Mini website; someone had opened up the control unit and had found the bulbs to be replaceable. That post is found at: http://www.mini2.com/forum/faults-fi...ce-blown-bulb-
heater-control-panel.html.
The post appears to have been made from England; the description of the bulbs needed didn't correlate with anything I could find here. After a few bulb purchases that looked right but weren't, I did find the right bulb at PartsQuick.com. The part is made by Flosser and carries their part #62 11 1 368 299. The PartsQuick stock number for the bulb is 419101.
The secret to getting at the bulbs that I missed the first time through was that the control knobs do have to come off. When I figured that out, it wasn't too difficult as DIY jobs go.
The first time (with the wrong bulbs), probably 2.5 hours as I was concerned about breaking plastic parts as I pried them apart, and didn't really know what I was doing or what to expect. Turns out the plastic is pretty stout stuff. Second time (with the right bulbs), more like an hour since I now had the process figured out.
The link got shortened when I posted. Bigshot has it right, copy and paste the whole link.