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Reassembled Engine - Zero Compression. valve Issue?
So the saga, continues...
...had my engine reassembled at a repair shop. they swear the timing is correct. they did NOT do a valve job nor replace the rings. the top end worked when i dropped it off.
so right now, across the board, i'm gettign ZERO compression (used gauge).
the shop suggested that the hydro-rockers needed to be bled.
i took them out and compressed each one until there was no more oil coming out of the little bleeder hole. put them back in.
same result.
it sounds like im starting the engine with no plugs in it. it spins up fine, but no kick....
there is spark coming to each plug wire, there is fuel on each one, the fluids are full, and vacuum hoses are all connected.
Hydraulic lifters need to be pumped while submerged in oil. You have collapsed the lifter by pumping all the oil out of it. Who tighten down the valve train in firing order?
__________________ Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?
George Carlin
not sure what you're asking about firing order? i put the lifters back on the motor
so youre sayign i submerged the lifter in motor oil and compress it all the way down the way ive been doing it? than it will stay all the way down or at least be in neutral position?
EDIT:
if there is an order what is it?
also, describe if you can the proper way to "clear" the lifters so they dont overextend on the valves and stick them open once i return them to the head.
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Last edited by Chibi Archillies; 11-26-2008 at 07:51 PM.
tried to submerge them in oil. pushed the open one, up and down, nothign happeend. the other one stayed down where i put it.
heres a pic for visual help.
again, the shop suggested i have all the lifters in the down position, as they are supposed to fill with oil once the car is started and runnign for abotu 15-20 seconds...
...so i need to figure out how to return them to that state. the ones i actually got down, were easy. bled them out with a small C-clamp. the otehr bled out as well, but an internal spring i guess keeps them in the up position....
The only way it could be lifters causing the problem would be if they were stuck all of the way out and not let the valves to close... Watch the valves as you turn the motor over by hand does the valves open and close right? Try a compression test with the rockers off so all of the valves are closed. Remove the spark plugs and compression test. This way you rule out alot of unknowns and timing does not matter at this point. IF it passes then valve train is the problem. Test fails- bad tester? bad pistons? good luck!
What about a leakdown test with the rockers off? That should tell you if anything is leaking past the valves or rings. If it passes that, then it's definitely the valvetrain.
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'02 MCS, Sport, Premium, Webb Sportbox RAF, 15% pulley, Milltek cat back, H-Sport comp rear swaybar, Powerflex engine and gearbox inserts, Stewart Warner boost and oil temp gauges in E-Pod, Optima Red Top 35, Whalen knob, M7 front grill, Hella FF200 fog lights on Out Motoring brackets, MCAW
What about a leakdown test with the rockers off? That should tell you if anything is leaking past the valves or rings. If it passes that, then it's definitely the valvetrain.
I would do this.
The car should still start and build some compression even with collapsed lifters.
__________________ -Rick
'03 EB/B MCS
Crap, gotta change my name to Not-so-rednwhite-or-darksilvernwhite-but-electricbluenblackcooper.
I don't understand why the repair shop that 'reassembled' your engine isn't the one worrying about this. Have they ever rebuilt a MINI engine before? Sounds like not, to me.
Because the motor has been turned the links do not matter now unless you can see the crank timing marks and redo the chain PITA. I would at this point bolt down the rockers drop a coat hanger type wire into the #1 spark plug hole with all of the other plugs removed by hand "turn the motor the same direction as if it was running". What you will/ should see will be as the intake valves open the piston should be going down per the wire that is riding on top of the piston as the piston comes back up the intake valves should then shut and the wire with just alittle more turn should be TDC. If things differ from this alot I would say its out of time. The lifters should compress as you bolt down the shaft this should not be the problem if anything like someone stated they should just be to loose.
somethign i didi must have worked, as the car starts and ive driven it baby steps to see if anythign leaks, or rattles, etc.
everythign seems to be running fine.
the check engine light is on solid, so ill ahve to find someone with a reader and see what code its spitting out.
thanks for the advise guys/gals. hopefully the next time i have to do this its on someone else's car. but at least i knwo now how to take a motor out and put it back.
