MINI Cooper MINI Cooper specs
 

Go Back   North American Motoring > 1st Generation MINIs > Stock Problems/Issues
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Welcome to North American Motoring !
Welcome to North American Motoring,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


» Latest Main Topics
Side designs
5 Replies, 197 Views
Advertisement

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #76  
Old 08-03-2011, 04:57 PM
Wolfeee's Avatar
Wolfeee Wolfeee is offline
6th Gear
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: New Yawk
Posts: 17,379
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via AIM to Wolfeee
Gallery
My dilemma.. My ABS/Brake/DSC lights came on too.. Took it to the dealer today..Just heard back from them, the ABS control module is bad, an internal fault, meaning the electrical component failed. I have an 08 Clubman with 62K miles. Part Cost: 1165.00 (choke)
Labor: 1230. (double choke)
The dealer said that MINI will cover the part but NOT the labor. Does this sound excessive, should MINI cover the labor IF they're covering the part. The part failed. Please, can someone have this make more sense to me.. Thanks!!
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #77  
Old 08-03-2011, 08:41 PM
ofioliti's Avatar
ofioliti ofioliti is offline
6th Gear
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Always curious ...
Posts: 2,273
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfeee View Post
My dilemma.. My ABS/Brake/DSC lights came on too.. Took it to the dealer today..Just heard back from them, the ABS control module is bad, an internal fault, meaning the electrical component failed. I have an 08 Clubman with 62K miles. Part Cost: 1165.00 (choke)
Labor: 1230. (double choke)
The dealer said that MINI will cover the part but NOT the labor. Does this sound excessive, should MINI cover the labor IF they're covering the part. The part failed. Please, can someone have this make more sense to me.. Thanks!!
I am not too familiar with the 2nd generation, but the price for the ABS module is similar to that of the first gen. I can't imagine the labor being $1230! That price must be part + labor (gosh, I would hope so!)
__________________
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l116/ofioliti/NAM%20sig/Presentation1.jpg
'04 MCS "Blue Meanie" / WMW 15% pulley / one-ball exhaust / DDM intake / H-Sport 19 mm anti-sway bar / JCW plugs / Kingsborne wires / magnetic drain plugs / Speedy wheels / Hawk pads + ATI rotors / Craven ST defenders / Whalen shift **** / Scan Gauge II / Gominigo 3rd brake light / Powerflex LCA bushings / WMW street tune / TSW jack points / Ian Cull v. 7 auto-up switch
Reply With Quote
  #78  
Old 08-03-2011, 09:55 PM
AKIndiMini's Avatar
AKIndiMini AKIndiMini is offline
6th Gear
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kodiak, AK
Posts: 7,882
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via ICQ to AKIndiMini Send a message via AIM to AKIndiMini Send a message via MSN to AKIndiMini Send a message via Yahoo to AKIndiMini Send a message via Skype™ to AKIndiMini
Gallery
I'm with ofioliti - labor shouldn't cost that much for the part! Do you have other dealers in the area (or perhap a NAM member recommended independent shop) that can give you a 2nd opinion?
__________________
Darren Asuncion
Kodiak, Alaska

04 MCS IB/W - Indi Blue Owner's Club #76, MMC#515
Flickr Facebook YouTube Myspace
Reply With Quote
  #79  
Old 08-03-2011, 11:32 PM
04liquidS's Avatar
04liquidS 04liquidS is offline
2nd Gear
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
Posts: 55
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via AIM to 04liquidS
Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by AKIndiMini View Post
Ugh. The trifecta came on when I was pulling out of the parking lot at work last night.

If I shut off the vehicle and start it back up, only the ABS and DSC lights remain on. And if I am able to just drive straight, the ABS/DSC lights shut off. The moment I turn the steering wheel, the trifecta pops back on again.

In my case, it's the !@#$%^^& left front sensor AGAIN. Figured this one out by getting the lights to shut off as described above, then going out and shaking the ABS wires at each wheel. The lights reliably pop back on any time the wiring at the left front wheel is disturbed, and I've even got it narrowed down to the point where the loom is molded into the sensor itself...
Little behind, check your hub, the back side of my drivers hub was all chewed up from rust. The part that that sensor rides I mean. Also my sensor was pretty much welded into my knuckle, I just drilled that ****er out then chiseled the rest out. I had to replace my hub anyways since I broke off a lug stud in there a year earlier and finally got around to it when I couldnt drill and tap it myself.
__________________
04 Liquid Yellow S
Reply With Quote
  #80  
Old 08-04-2011, 03:21 AM
Wolfeee's Avatar
Wolfeee Wolfeee is offline
6th Gear
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: New Yawk
Posts: 17,379
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via AIM to Wolfeee
Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by AKIndiMini View Post
I'm with ofioliti - labor shouldn't cost that much for the part! Do you have other dealers in the area (or perhap a NAM member recommended independent shop) that can give you a 2nd opinion?
I have 2 other dealers I can check with plus I also have an independant MINI certified tech that does work on my car when needed.. Awaiting his call.. will you keep you updated. Thanks guys, I appreciate it!
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #81  
Old 05-31-2013, 12:23 PM
aguieira aguieira is offline
Neutral
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
I found the part for $15 here: http://www.miparts.com/oem/34%2052%206%20756%20384
Is this a reliable online store?
Reply With Quote
  #82  
Old 06-25-2013, 01:21 PM
Sidewalksam's Avatar
Sidewalksam Sidewalksam is offline
3rd Gear
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: right here
Posts: 206
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
just confirming this picture shows wheel speed sensor connection next to the brake pad sensor correct?

Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
1995 saturn SW1: immortal: donated to high school auto shop after 18 years
2001 suburban: the hauler
2004 MR2 Spyder: Permagrin
2007 cooper S droptop: the new toy
2012 Chevy Sonic (happy B-day daughter #1)
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e342/spyder100/sigpic83285_2gif.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #83  
Old 06-25-2013, 04:53 PM
AKIndiMini's Avatar
AKIndiMini AKIndiMini is offline
6th Gear
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kodiak, AK
Posts: 7,882
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via ICQ to AKIndiMini Send a message via AIM to AKIndiMini Send a message via MSN to AKIndiMini Send a message via Yahoo to AKIndiMini Send a message via Skype™ to AKIndiMini
Gallery
Yup, that's it!
__________________
Darren Asuncion
Kodiak, Alaska

04 MCS IB/W - Indi Blue Owner's Club #76, MMC#515
Flickr Facebook YouTube Myspace
Reply With Quote
  #84  
Old 07-06-2013, 12:09 PM
Sidewalksam's Avatar
Sidewalksam Sidewalksam is offline
3rd Gear
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: right here
Posts: 206
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
Ok just finished my test drive lights are off

Thoughts to add

The left and right front sensors mount differently. the drivers side sensor wire mounts to the brake pad sensor wires (which have rubber clips attached ). they are easy to unclip and reclip pics below
Click the image to open in full size.

Also it is clear that the mounting position left and right are different. The picture posted above in post 82 show the drivers side where the blue end of the cable sits in a white C-clip. On the belt side of the engine the blue end is held in by a zip tie attached to a gromit as posted above in the pics of this thread.

Don't be confused if you do both sides, sensors are the same they just mount differently.

The most challenging (difficult ) part of this procedure is actually getting the old sensor out of the hub carrier. By no means was removal easy. Pull straight up was not doing it.

My strategy was to use a vice grip along with two flat blade screw drivers to shimmy the sensor up. each side took 10-15 minutes. Insertion of the new sensor was far easier.
Have patients they will come out.

here is a good view of the sensor head in the hub carrier (located behind the disk at 12 noon)
Click the image to open in full size.

great info here as always if it were not for removing the old sensors this would be easy smeary
__________________
1995 saturn SW1: immortal: donated to high school auto shop after 18 years
2001 suburban: the hauler
2004 MR2 Spyder: Permagrin
2007 cooper S droptop: the new toy
2012 Chevy Sonic (happy B-day daughter #1)
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e342/spyder100/sigpic83285_2gif.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #85  
Old 08-04-2013, 06:48 PM
westernfb westernfb is offline
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 16
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
I finally buckled down and made the time to address my own "trifecta problem" using advice from this great thread. Using only the jack that came with my 2004 S (just to affirm how uncomplicated the inspection was), I inspected individually both front, and one rear, sensor cables, hoping to find some obvious fraying or other damage. Found none, unfortunately. Decided to, similar to others on this thread, just go ahead and purchase two well-priced front sensors and go with the odds that the issue is one or both front sensors and hopefully be done with the issue by replacing both. One hassle that I encountered was removal of the plastic wheel shrouds that make accessing the full length of the sensor cable a bit awkward. I tried unscrewing the center of the plastic screw-clips, with a proper-sized Philips screwdriver, and the plastic heads easily and quickly stripped so badly that I could no longer turn them. What the heck?! Can I just yank these suckers out without the shroud being wobbly when I replace it? Is it possible to get replacement clips? Thanks to all for the pictures and advice.
Reply With Quote
  #86  
Old 08-05-2013, 10:26 AM
AKIndiMini's Avatar
AKIndiMini AKIndiMini is offline
6th Gear
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kodiak, AK
Posts: 7,882
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via ICQ to AKIndiMini Send a message via AIM to AKIndiMini Send a message via MSN to AKIndiMini Send a message via Yahoo to AKIndiMini Send a message via Skype™ to AKIndiMini
Gallery
I hate those stupid clips. I used some pliers to grab the screw head - most of them came out with a firm tug. Once you get the 'screw' part of the plastic clip, the remaining bit of the clip left in the fender should just pull right out. The shroud will be wobbly without these fasteners...but I was lucky enough that most of mine came out normally. The remaining ones held the shroud well enough to get me to the auto parts store and get replacements.
__________________
Darren Asuncion
Kodiak, Alaska

04 MCS IB/W - Indi Blue Owner's Club #76, MMC#515
Flickr Facebook YouTube Myspace
Reply With Quote
  #87  
Old 08-05-2013, 10:32 AM
westernfb westernfb is offline
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 16
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
Thanks AKIndiMini. While I'm waiting for the sensors to arrive in the mail, I'll go to the auto parts store and buy some clips. What exactly should I be asking for? Maybe I should just pull one out to show the folks at the store?
Reply With Quote
  #88  
Old 08-05-2013, 01:55 PM
AKIndiMini's Avatar
AKIndiMini AKIndiMini is offline
6th Gear
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kodiak, AK
Posts: 7,882
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via ICQ to AKIndiMini Send a message via AIM to AKIndiMini Send a message via MSN to AKIndiMini Send a message via Yahoo to AKIndiMini Send a message via Skype™ to AKIndiMini
Gallery
I just had a sample with me when I went to the parts store. They had a binder full of them and I just purchased the ones that most closely matched the original one. The replacements I picked up were of a better (IMHO) design - no screwdriver needed. Just pull on the center 'screw' part with pliers and they come right out. If memory serves, the ones I bought were labeled as "Honda" fasteners.

I just asked to see their selection of plastic body panel fasteners.
__________________
Darren Asuncion
Kodiak, Alaska

04 MCS IB/W - Indi Blue Owner's Club #76, MMC#515
Flickr Facebook YouTube Myspace
Reply With Quote
  #89  
Old 08-05-2013, 01:59 PM
westernfb westernfb is offline
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 16
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
Got it. Thanks very much.
Reply With Quote
  #90  
Old 08-16-2013, 11:09 AM
westernfb westernfb is offline
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 16
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
Just wanted to provide an update on what happened (good and bad) after I decided to work on this common problem by using this forum and a YouTube video. The overall message is that this is a situation that can be addressed by an owner with only moderate experience, skill and resources (such as myself).

First, the URL for the video that I watched:
. It was helpful, just as were the great photos provided in this thread.

Proceeding entirely on belief, based upon statements made in this thread, that the "trifecta" of warning lights would probably disappear if I were to replace one or both of the front wheel speed sensors, I purchased two of the sensors from "fast_parts2u" on Ebay at an amazing price of $16.39 each! Yeah, I know, this seemed too good to be true, and I prepared myself for the possibility that the goods would be worthless.

I jacked up the right-front end using just the jack that came with the car and a jack stand that I own. Out of impatience, I did not remove the plastic splash guard that obscures the inner attachment point of the sensor. I recommend, if you have the time, buying some replacement clips for the guard and then removing it. My attempts to remove the guards when I first investigated the problem started to mangle the inner (screw) part of the clips, and I believed that I would have to replace many of them, if I tried to remove the guards. So I just dealt with the awkwardness of working around them.

The space that you have to work in makes the job awkward, requiring that you hunch your back, stick your head in a hole (with fun surfaces to hit it on), and look at stuff that requires reading glasses for an old guy like me. A flashlight is needed. I recommend using a headlamp.

The bolt holding the sensor in place came out pretty easily with a 5mm allen key (using the long end) held tight and turned using vise grips. A ratchet with an extender and 5mm bit would have been better, but I had all of those things, except for the 5mm end/bit, so I improvised. After unsuccessfully trying to rock and wiggle the sensor up and out, using the same vise grips, I used a hammer to drive a short, standard screwdriver under the plastic sensor body. As I attempted to pry the plastic body up with the screwdriver, I eventually "succeeded" in breaking the plastic body in two and then snapping off the plastic at the very top of the sensor. This required that I use a drill (which did not fit easily into the space) to drill out the hole. I was not a happy boy. Mess from the drilling was sucked up with a shop vac. The other end of the sensor easily separated from its mate, even when working around the plastic guard. The new sensor had to be tapped in (gently) with a hammer and flat-end screwdriver (only short screwdrivers work in this space). Reattachment at the other end of the sensor was awkward, with the plastic shield in the way, and the fit of the new sensor end in its mate was so tight that I thought I may have had the wrong part. I used wire to pull the inside attachment junction and wires away from the pulley that has rubbed against others' sensor wires.

Replacing the right-front sensor did not solve the problem. Started to worry. Bad parts? Human error? Moved on to the left-front.

For the left-front, I tried a new sensor extraction technique: I secured large vise grips to the top of the sensor. Then I used a large flat-end screwdriver (end facing up, placed against the inside of the vise grips' adjustment screw) and hammer to tap with an upward motion, driving up the vise grips, and hopefully the sensor with it. It worked! No drill or F-bombs needed this time! The sensor did not go in as easily this time as did the front-right sensor. I had to lubricate it a bit and then tapped it in gently with screwdriver and hammer. Reattachment on the other end of the sensor was similarly awkward, as with the right-front (working around plastic shield and with a very tight-fitting electrical junction). I again used wire to secure wires away from the engine.

With front-left sensor (and wheel, etc.) replaced, I climbed in the car and started it. Just one light (low tire pressure) was off. Darn! Then drove the car for about 200 yards, and the remaining two lights went off and stayed off. Yes! Looks like the problem has been solved. Thanks to all who contributed to the thread. Hope this account helps someone.
Reply With Quote
  #91  
Old 08-24-2013, 09:01 AM
troyhumann troyhumann is offline
Neutral
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
I have a 2006 mini cooper s convertible. The dummy lights go on and off at random, this is a problem in all 2006 from what I have found on line. The trunk switch turns on the interior light as well.
Reply With Quote
  #92  
Old 08-25-2013, 01:18 PM
westernfb westernfb is offline
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 16
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
Too good to be true? After a few days of experiencing no "trifecta", I took the car to a local place for a combo oil change/tire rotation. The next day, the low-tire-pressure light came on with a "bling!" and has been flashing ever since. Took note of the air pressure in each tire. Average was about 30psi, and the max the tires will take is 50psi, so I just inflated all to approx. 42psi and took the little darling for a short spin. Light still flashing. Cr$#! Now I will search for a thread that addresses just the flashing light.
Reply With Quote
  #93  
Old 08-26-2013, 04:11 PM
JRhea JRhea is offline
3rd Gear
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Orlando FL
Posts: 214
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
I had the quad-fecta of warning lights due to a frayed sensor wire from rubbing the harmonic balancer. I just installed a $16.00 sensor from eBay. My low tire psi light went out for a minute or two and is now back on. I test drove the car for 5 minutes and the lights remained on. Shut off the car for 10 minutes and then test drove again, low tire light went off for a minute and then back on I addition to the ABS, Brake, and DSC
Perhaps it will still reset itself with a few more miles

For now I have a total of 6 lights when you add the SES and airbag light.
SES is on due to the evaporator trouble code. That's my next project.

Any suggestions on getting the lights to reset???

Last edited by JRhea; 08-26-2013 at 05:30 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #94  
Old 02-02-2014, 12:24 PM
Mean Mini's Avatar
Mean Mini Mean Mini is offline
Neutral
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 3
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
Garage
This helped out!

I just changed out my sensor. I used PB Blaster to loosen things up. It went effortless. Thanks for all the great information!!Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by Mean Mini; 02-02-2014 at 12:27 PM. Reason: Spelling
Reply With Quote
  #95  
Old 05-04-2014, 02:24 PM
hangupndrive's Avatar
hangupndrive hangupndrive is offline
Neutral
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 7
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
Fasteners

Quote:
Originally Posted by westernfb View Post
I finally buckled down and made the time to address my own "trifecta problem" using advice from this great thread. Using only the jack that came with my 2004 S (just to affirm how uncomplicated the inspection was), I inspected individually both front, and one rear, sensor cables, hoping to find some obvious fraying or other damage. Found none, unfortunately. Decided to, similar to others on this thread, just go ahead and purchase two well-priced front sensors and go with the odds that the issue is one or both front sensors and hopefully be done with the issue by replacing both. One hassle that I encountered was removal of the plastic wheel shrouds that make accessing the full length of the sensor cable a bit awkward. I tried unscrewing the center of the plastic screw-clips, with a proper-sized Philips screwdriver, and the plastic heads easily and quickly stripped so badly that I could no longer turn them. What the heck?! Can I just yank these suckers out without the shroud being wobbly when I replace it? Is it possible to get replacement clips? Thanks to all for the pictures and advice.
Did the same to mine - used a small drill then an easy out ... Came right off and was able to reuse ... Gonna replace them though just the same... here's a link to replacement clips... http://parts.miniofsouthatlanta.com/...130702966.html
__________________
'05 MCSC Too much fun!

Last edited by hangupndrive; 05-04-2014 at 04:06 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #96  
Old 05-13-2014, 07:11 PM
hangupndrive's Avatar
hangupndrive hangupndrive is offline
Neutral
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 7
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfeee View Post
My dilemma.. My ABS/Brake/DSC lights came on too.. Took it to the dealer today..Just heard back from them, the ABS control module is bad, an internal fault, meaning the electrical component failed. I have an 08 Clubman with 62K miles. Part Cost: 1165.00 (choke)
Labor: 1230. (double choke)
The dealer said that MINI will cover the part but NOT the labor. Does this sound excessive, should MINI cover the labor IF they're covering the part. The part failed. Please, can someone have this make more sense to me.. Thanks!!
Well after searching and reading all the "trifecta" issues bought a c110 OBDII /ABS scanner. Told me I had 3 bad sensors. I all started after cleaning the engine compartment and disconnecting the battery preparing to replace my broken engine mount. Somehow three simultaneous failures didn't seem right ... So threw in the towel and took it to the shop ... Bad ASC unit (the one with all the brake lines running to it) $1,450 to get it going again... they told me they do one a month.... Can't complain too much after 125k miles but... My advice - don't steam clean the engine bay, be extra careful disconnecting the battery ... Mine arced a couple times as the leads tapped the battery post one - of these two may have torched my ASC ...
__________________
'05 MCSC Too much fun!
Reply With Quote
  #97  
Old 06-07-2014, 11:30 AM
MervCarr MervCarr is offline
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Ancaster, ON
Posts: 16
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Gallery
I have to replace ABS sensors too (thanks for all the info here). Priced around a bit

Mini Stealer - $175
NAPA - $155 (Pex)
Autopartsway.ca - $46 plus $19 shipping - also Pex (bought 2 so shipping works out to $9.50 each)

All prices plus tax. Something tells me someone is making a huge profit???
Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2014, 11:30 AM
 
 
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump


MINI CooperMINI Cooper PrivacyMINI Cooper Terms of UseMINI Cooper Guidelines MINI Cooper Advertising The North American MINI Cooper Community
  MINI Cooper news, forums, FAQs, and reviews for enthusiasts and owners of the North American MINI Cooper
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:36 PM.
 Copyright © 2002-2008 North American Motoring. All Rights Reserved.     Powered by vBulletin and vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:36 PM.



Powered by vBulletin and vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
North American Motoring is an independently operated web site supporting MINI owners and enthusiastsworldwide. As such it has no official relationship with MINI USA, BMW AG, or BMW of North America.All original artwork and design is Copyright © 2002-2004 North American Motoring.
Admin Account Passwords