Don't know. My car was still warm (not hot) when I did mine. It's really easy to do. All you need is a ShopVac and a container to put the old coolant in when you take it to the auto parts store to recycle it.

 

No , I believe that the amount negative air pressure and gravity (top of lines are above the engine) are enough to pull everything from the hoses leading to the thermostat. The majority of the coolant is going to be located in the radiator and the engine-block regardless.

 

That's my point I guess. So how do you get it out of the radiator and engine block? There should be 6.3 quarts (MCS) that need to come out of there and replaced.

Seems to me, that if you can't get a low point vent that this vacuum method will only get a portion of it out...the portion that is at or above whatever vent you open. Then, if your vent is below the thermostat, you have to deal with pulling the fluid through the thermostat. Ideally, there should be a low point drain. I hear it exists but hard to get to. If that's the case and you can get it open, then gravity makes more sense.

 

"Seems to me, that if you can't get a low point vent that this vacuum method will only get a portion of it out"

I have a powerful Shopvac and the amount of negative pressure was enough to get all of it out. In fact, there was even some debris that was knocked loose and sucked out. I bet that a regular coolant change ("just a drain") would not have knocked anything loose.

Just vacuum in conjunction with flushing the system with deionized h20. Make sure you have a hose or line that feeds from one of the open hoses to some deionized h20 as you Shopvac from the other hose. That way you know for certain that you have everything out. If your not happy with the result, then drain and refill. All of the old coolant was removed and replaced by new coolant/redline water wetter. Since I do not have an aftermarket temp gauge to give you an exact number, I can say that the needle is dead center on my stock temp gauge in 105 degrees (Az. heat). The car runs smooth and I will do it again when the time comes.

The next trick will be to find an easier way to change the Supercharger fluid without having to remove the front end.

 

The trick REALLY is to get all 6.3 qts of antifreeze out. That's what I'd like to acheive and that's the question I'm asking. You said you got a half gallon out (2 qts). I won't do this method as you suggest...wink wink, nudge nudge, if you know what I mean.

 

If I stated earlier that I got 2 qts. out, then I was mistaken because I have 4 gallons of used antifreeze sitting in my garage that I have not recycled yet. I'm not sure why I said 2qts. Sorry. Maybe I meant 2 gallons. 2 gallons antifreeze/ 2gallons dionized h20.

 

I think you want distilled water (the kind you put in steam irons) not deionized ! you are trying to keep the minerals out of the system.deionized water still has the minerals in it and some bottled waters have added minerals in them too. Flushing with a garden hose adds minerals to the system too ! flushing with the hose followed by the vacuum method , then filled with water wetter and distilled water only, this would give max cooling , add 50% non phosphorus anti freeze for cold weather that would be the best for all season. in my opinion.

 

Has anyone tried 'pushing' the coolant out using a shop-vac blower?
Also, what direction does the coolant flow, e.g. left to right, top to bottom?

 

Well, I would like to tackle this....I have a ShopVac, and this sounds relatively easy. But, can I ask you to just walk me through this one more time?

Here's what I get so far:

1) Wait till the car is cooled off.
2) Open the reservoir cap.
3) Open the bleeder point on the upper radiator hose (where is that, BTW?? I have a 2005 MCS Conv.)
4) Stick the shopvac hose into the reservoir and suck out what I can.
5) Fill the reservoir with distilled water (do I now close the bleeder valve, replace the reservoir cap, and turn the car on? Or do I just fill the system with distilled water, let it sit, and suck it back out - and do that 2 or 4 times?)
6) After it sems like I have gotten the old coolant out, I refill the system (with a 50/50 mix of Zerex G-05, which is what I bought).

The parts that are confusing to me are: finding the upper radiator hose air bleed screw, and whether or not I turn the car on during any of this process....

Many thanks,
melanie

 

Is the air bleeder point the little plug shown in gray above? It sits between two clamps at the back of the radiator?
It seems to be rubber with a large slotted + head...Do you use a standard screwdriver on it?

Thanks!

 

Yes it is.
Yes you can.

Hope this helps...

 

Excellent...getting there...
How does this sound this for a revised DIY plan, step by step:

1) Wait till the car is cooled off.
2) Open the reservoir cap.
3) Open the bleeder point on the upper radiator hose.
4) Stick the shopvac hose into the reservoir and suck out what I can.
5) Open the clamp to the short upper hose, stick the shop vac in and suck out what I can.
6) Reconnect the short hose, close the bleeder valve, put the front of the car up on jacks.
7) Open up the lower radiator hose and let drain out what's left.
8) Fill the reservoir with distilled water, and keep pouring it through the reservoir tank till it comes out the lower hose pretty much clear.
9) Reconnect the lower hose, remove the jacks.
10) Refill the system (with a 50/50 mix of Zerex G-05, which is what I bought).
11) Turn on the car, turn the heater on to the hottest setting, run it around the block a time or two, open the bleeder valve and burp any remaining air out. Repeat until only coolant comes out the bleeder valve.
12) Have a Heineken and celebrate the fact that I learned how to do something new on my Mini!

How's that sound???

 

No confirmation yet for Gerldoc's step-by-step procedure. I want to do this and the procedure as documented by Gerldoc seems simple enough. Can anyone confirm this is the process?

Thanks.

 

Really? Haven't you read up on these posts? I did mine back in 08-09 and Gerldoc did hers in April this year the same way that I posted earlier. After 30k miles my car is running nice and cool I am sure Gerldoc is the same way. Don't be afraid and just do it.

 

Attached the shopvac where?

 

Attach the shop vac to one of the lines attached to the overflow tank then switch to the other line. You could also get some extra deionized h2o and "rigg" a line to the h2o bottle, so when you vac out the coolant, you will also flush the system. Dont forget to shop vac from the bottom side of the radiator.

 

I have an '06 R50. See the following cooling system diagram:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...19&hg=17&fg=05

There are bleed points at the vent screw in the upper radiator hose (#9) and at the connection piece (#18) which sits about 8 inches on the opposite side of the overflow cap. I have been trying for 3 days to get this system "burped"... and can't figure it out... Thank heavens I waited til I had some time off to do this!!

Any takers???

 

Have you tried to warm the engine up and SLOWLY open the bleed valve? I do not know the "correct" procedure but I did this on mine and it seemed to work just fine...

 

This is information straight from BMW. Just a little information for preventive maintenance.

These measurements are for 2006 models i dunno if they are the same for other years i haven't checked.
Coupe and Vert it takes 5.5 ltrs. (5.8 qts)
Coupe S Vert S takes 6.0 ltrs (6.3 qts)

 

1) When you say "warm the engine up," how warm? Normal operating temperature? How long are you running it?
2) Are you suggesting bleeding WHILE the engine is running?

My problem seems to be in the heater circuit... I had heat once I got enough fluid in the system, then lost it... can't get it back...

 

You have to bleed it while the water pump is working, so yes, while it is running. Put Heat on high at the same time. There are two bleeder screws and you should use both, though it may be possible to just use the front one.

 

MINI Cooper S R53 AntiFreeze Coolant Flush

The following procedure flushes the cooling system and replaces the defective plastic coolant expansion tank with a superior metal tank.
The MINI R53 coolant capacity is 6.0 L (6.3 qts) with the tank filled to MAX, and this procedure removes ~6 qts.
Duration is a few hours, including the messy clean up.

References:
MINI Owner's Workshop Manual - Haynes
http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-gen...e-coolant.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ush-diy-2.html
http://www.motoringfile.com/mini-r50r53-buyers-guide/ (coolant tank problems)


Parts:
BMW/MINI coolant, 1 gal
Coolant Type:
One Gallon BMW Part #s:
81 22 9 407 454
82 14 0 031 133
82 14 1 467 704 (found this one at BMW dealer)
(note BMW coolant is the same blue color coolant as MINI's)
Distilled water, 6 gal
Funnel that tightly fits on the BMW coolant container top
Catch container (large rectangular plastic storage type with 6" deep sides and cover, Wal-Mart ~$12)
Locking pliers for hose spring clips
Wetvac, 4.5 HP minimum (Stanley from Wal-Mart ~$50)
Wetvac tapered adapter (1 1/4" down to 1/4" dia, Lowe's ~$12) Tip: ShopVac brand hoses seem to leak more. If the unit only has 2 1/2" hoses, then a 1 1/4" adapter is also needed.
Forge Motorsport Aluminum Coolant Tank, optional ($180, http://www.waymotorworks.com/forge-motorsport/)


1) While car is running, turn heater on HI and fan speed to Low setting.
2) Park with front-end up on ramps and in reach of an electrical outlet.
3) Turn off and wait until the engine has cooled down; prepare wetvac, tools, etc.
4) Very slowly remove the pressure relief cap on the coolant expansion tank.
5) Remove the under body protection panel and move catch container into position under the lower radiator hose.
6) Wearing safety goggles/gloves/mask, very carefully disconnect the lower radiator hose, drain and catch the coolant.
7) Connect wetvac 1 1/4" end on lower radiator hose and turn on wetvac to draw remaining coolant from water/coolant pump and engine block.
Note, it's a tight fit and requires shoving the wetvac 1 1/4" end up into the lower radiator hose end until a watertight fit.
8) Turn off wetvac. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at the point right after the vent plug (in the direction from the radiator towards the engine).
Tip: The dull flathead screwdriver used for the vent plug, can be used to gently pry the hose loose from vent plug housing.
Do NOT push the tip under the hose end, just use gentle sideways force around the hose end to separate them a bit, then pull the hose off.
9) Turn on wetvac to remove additional coolant drained from upper hose removal/message, then turn off and disconnect wetvac from lower radiator hose.
10) Disconnect the lower and upper hoses of the coolant expansion tank (should be empty). Remove the plastic tank if later replacing with metal Motorsport tank.
11) Completely drain the wetvac by pouring into the catch container (then pour all used coolant into an empty 1 gal container if keeping track of how much coolant removed).
12) Use the wetvac adapter and funnel on upper radiator hose to pour distilled water, flushing the radiator until only clear water drains (~2 gal).
13) Pour a funnel full amount of distilled water into the other upper radiator hose in the direction towards the engine (cleans hose with very slow drain).
14) Reconnect original upper radiator hose.
15) Pour distilled water into the lower coolant expansion tank hose, using wetvac adapter/funnel.
16) Repeat step 15 until drained water appears clear (~1 gal).
17) Reconnect wetvac to lower radiator hose and turn on wetvac.
18) Repeat step 15 until distilled water is removed, flushing the engine block/water pump as much as possible (~2 gal).
19) When all the coolant/water mixture is believed to be flushed, then repeat step 11 to compare the most recent old coolant/water mixture with a new 1 gal distilled water container.
Tip: They should appear similar, but not identical as the drained water may have a sleight off-clear discoloration, indicating when the cooling system is flushed.
20) Reconnect all original hoses. Install the new metal tank.
Tips: Do not install the lower plastic guides on the new tank until it's fully in place and connected.
Remove the #3 spark plug wire from the coil for more room.
Carefully lower the new tank downwards, avoiding contact with any metal surfaces as it's easily scratched.
Rotate it around to connect the two hoses and attach the top bolt. Insert and finger tighten the lower passenger side plastic guide on the bottom bracket.
21) Open the heater hose vent plug. Behind and below the intercooler, under the wiring bundle, is the heating distribution pipe. This is a small, 1" or so, rubber hose. You can see it when looking down over the back of the intercooler. There is a small 6 pt bolt head, looks shiney, cadnium plated or maybe gold colored, screwed into a fitting in the heater hose. May require a foot long extension to reach. This is a vent plug and should be opened (loosened).
22) Open the vent plug in the upper radiator hose. This is visible at the top of the radiator and slotted for a screw driver and is also fitted to a port clamped into the hose.
23) Leave the vent plugs open (but don't remove them) so the system is vented during filling.
24) Using proper type and mixed coolant, pour the coolant into the expansion tank. If coolant emerges from the vent plugs, tighten them (don't overtighten).
25) Fill the expansion tank to the MAX indication line and close the vent plugs.
26) Start the engine, turn the heater on HI and allow to idle until the temperature gauge rises towards halfway, adding coolant if the level drops.
27) Switch off and slowly open the vent plugs to vent air and see if coolant escapes. Close the vent plugs.
28) Repeat steps 26-27, until no air hisses out and coolant emerges.
29) Install the pressure relief cap on the coolant expansion tank and allow the engine to cool.
30) Clean up all equipment and flush all surfaces with water.
31) Check coolant level and top off as necessary.
32) Properly dispose of all used coolant mixtures (note AutoZone won't take it).

 

I did my coolant flush over the weekend using the shopvac method, and it worked great! Between what drained out, and what was in the vac I had 5 1/2qts fluid. I added just a tick over 6 qts back. In addition I also flushed with 2 gallons distalled so that the water draining out was clear (water in the bottom of radiator was clear too).

Thank you for the write up, very helpful indeed!!!

 

I'm adding an update to my 2008 post in this thread. In that previous post stated antifreeze has rust inhibitors, so it is OK to use tap water with coolant. Since that post, I've relocated to a location that has abominable tap water. I do not even wash my cars with it, let alone place it in the engines. So, I bought 5 gallons of distilled water today and will complete the flushing and coolant replacement using distilled water.

 

What sentiment? Most long use coolants (Like OEM coolants) are made with distilled water so there is nothing in solution to come out and form sediment. I have drained the mini for a T-stat repair and the coolant coming out looked great with about 30K on it.

In my spyder, I went 60K (now this is a car that is hard to change coolant in ) and the old coolant looked no different than the new stuff going in.

Tap H2O has a lot dissolved in it and engine heat and time will get those minerals to precipitate out. That is why you don't use tap water.