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Well the dealer was great about calling daily with updates but they said that they were not able to duplicate the knock even following my advise on the parked with the noise down, simulating the pull out of the garage and leave for a hour or two (like washing) and pull back in garage and start up the next morning. So after being on the road for over 5 hrs yesterday, I go out to the garage this morning to take my mom out for breakfast and guess what we hear? KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK!
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2010 Clubman S, Auto,H&R Sport Springs ,H&R Adjustable Control Arms, 22mm Rear Sway Bar, Alta Short Antenna, Joey Mod Xenon’s, Blacked Out Grill, Surround, Tinted Side Running Lights, 35% Ceramic Window Tint, DDM Works R56/R55 Cooper S Race Intake System.
It seems that if I park uphill and rev to around 3000 a couple of times before shutdown, I can somewhat control the problem.
That's the key, and I suggest anyone who gets this problem early on follow that procedure. You can even park nose down, and as long as U rev to 3 once hold it and hit the stop button it should be fine.
__________________ I say, boy, you dont seem to be apprehendin' the general gist of what I'm tryin' to convey here. Maybe you oughta take a second, let your head catch up to your tongue before it gets all sunburnt. That was a joke, son, I say - a joke! Nice boy, but he's about as sharp as a sack o' wet mice.
That's crazy. What kind of car needs to be parked nose up, revved to 3K, and then shut off?
A badly engineered one, of course. And I'm posting this because my mechanic told me it was my fault that there was cold start chatter - because I parked my car nose down! Damn.
I disagree. It's not the car nor the engine that's badly engineered; it's the substandard parts put into these cars and engines by an AG whose lowest manufacturing costs from contractors dictate their business bottom line. Give us quality parts--not ones made in developing third world countries with no Q/C--and watch the problem go away.
Another example are window mechanisms. for decades BMW has been using the same supplier--the cheapest one--and for decades window issues have been a major headache for owners and dealers. you think BMW'd change suppliers, but no, the cheapest supplier wins the bottom line business battle.
__________________ I say, boy, you dont seem to be apprehendin' the general gist of what I'm tryin' to convey here. Maybe you oughta take a second, let your head catch up to your tongue before it gets all sunburnt. That was a joke, son, I say - a joke! Nice boy, but he's about as sharp as a sack o' wet mice.
Took my 2009 MCS into the dealer yesterday. The replaced the chain tensioner. There is a service bulletin and a new part. So far so good...
Quote:
Originally Posted by miktvk
Ah jeez, this problem hit my car big time just this week, 2200 miles. Checked here found a few posting on same cold-start death rattle, went over to Mini2, found this>>
252 messages in one hair-raising 13-page thread, multiple sound clips included. I didn't even bother searching for others. Gonna call the dealer this week. Very dissappointing.
I'm bummed.
"Unable to reproduce the problem - the car is fine".
is that this is a known issue, the latest fix appears to not be the total fix that was anticipated, and that there are still dealers out there who pretend that this is an isolated, rare event so don't trust the customer.
It will get worse, to the point that even they will be able to reproduce it.
Try giving your dealer: Service Bulletin SI M 11 02 07 Performed timing chain tensioner measurement. Bulleting says only part to be replaced is the chain tensioner. (it is a newly designed part.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bssiesmth
"Unable to reproduce the problem - the car is fine".
I sent the bulletin to my dealer. Apparently, it says you don't need special permission from the plant in order to do the change. Unfortunately, it also says cars with build dates up to November 2008 are affected, so I can easily see them telling me my car isn't affected.
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2010 Laser Blue manual MCS ("Guido"), Chili Package, stock!
My MCS has the rattle as well. It does not always show up. But, when it does, it's typically when its very cold. However, sometimes (rarely) it shows up when its above freezing.
I sent the bulletin to my dealer. Apparently, it says you don't need special permission from the plant in order to do the change. Unfortunately, it also says cars with build dates up to November 2008 are affected, so I can easily see them telling me my car isn't affected.
Hi there, Any chance of posting up the SIM bulletin? If not would you PM me with it.
Thanks for your help.
__________________ 28April2008, 'Trixy' Cooper Automatic+Sunroof+AutoAir+HiFi+CruiseControl+15" Rotator Six Spoke
Mods: European Center Armrest+Wet Okole w/Lumbars over 4" Memory Foam(see Gallery)+XM-Radio+ScanGauge II
I sent the bulletin to my dealer. Apparently, it says you don't need special permission from the plant in order to do the change. Unfortunately, it also says cars with build dates up to November 2008 are affected, so I can easily see them telling me my car isn't affected.
This affected build date keeps inching up-- at first it was 2007s only, then 2008s, and to Nov 2008 would take into account the first two months of 09 production, like mine (9/25/08). Pretty soon, it'll be all the 09s and YUP you guessed it the 10s: when does the wild train ride stop?
__________________ I say, boy, you dont seem to be apprehendin' the general gist of what I'm tryin' to convey here. Maybe you oughta take a second, let your head catch up to your tongue before it gets all sunburnt. That was a joke, son, I say - a joke! Nice boy, but he's about as sharp as a sack o' wet mice.
Never stop...
It's a R&D default !
So it would cost too much money to create an other camshaft system...
In France we fight with dealers to find one that is able to understand the trouble and fix it !!!
Now, because I'm not confident with dealers, I took an extend warranty for my MINI (+36 months). I will wait for my engine to explose !!!
We seem to be dealing with two distinct issues here, based on the descriptions and vids posted.........
There is the chain dragging noise, which rises and falls distinctly with engine RPM, and goes away quickly when the oil pressure comes up.
Then there's the knocking noise that seems most noticeable at lower RPMS, and can be made to be worse at certain engine revs.
I had the tensioner replaced on my '09 and so far it's fixed the problem. Of the two issues it seems to me the tensioner issue is the one most easily able to cause massive engine problems.
I have absolutely no idea what's causing the knocking sounds, whether that's from timing/injection issues or valve issues or what, but it's definitely there on some emgines.
If you just go ahead and drive the car when it's making that knocking noise, does it affect the performance? What happens if you just take it up thru the gears while it's doing this, does it change the noise? Make it worse or less?
Is it temp related? worse when cold? Does it ever happen on a warm engine?
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'09 LB/LB Clubman S
'69 Jaguar XK-E
'04 Audi Allroad Twin-Turbo
MMC#580
Here is an interesting quote regarding oil change interval:
Quote:
There are still vehicles that need 3K oil changes, but it's not because the oil goes bad after 3K miles. One example is the Saturn S series. These vehicles have a timing chain system that is very sensitive to clean oil because oil pressure is used as hydraulic fluid to ratchet up the timing chain tensioner. If varnish forms in the timing chain tensioner bore then this system can fail and the chain will become loose and eventually break.
KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK!
I say, boy, you dont seem to be apprehendin' the general gist of what I'm tryin' to convey here. Maybe you oughta take a second, let your head catch up to your tongue before it gets all sunburnt. That was a joke, son, I say - a joke! Nice boy, but he's about as sharp as a sack o' wet mice.
28April2008, 'Trixy' Cooper Automatic+Sunroof+AutoAir+HiFi+CruiseControl+15" Rotator Six Spoke
