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  #1  
Old 02-08-2008, 06:45 AM
sck_nogas sck_nogas is offline
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Any more detailed steps to replacing alternator?

Last night, my 02 Mini Cooper (CVT) died on the way home, it started with the "Battery" light indicating a voltage/charging issue, but within a few miles I'd lost power steering, and had airbags, parking brakes, etc... going crazy.

So, get towed home, and check the voltage, the battery is drained. But, it's a 1 year old Interstate battery, so that shouldn't be the issue. Let's charge it anyway. After a couple hours @ 10Amps the battery has a 12V charge, let it finish off overnight with a 2A trickle charge.

In diagnosing the issue, I start the car, then disconnect the negative battery terminal while car is still running. The car stalls. Hmmm, I then use a voltmeter to measure the battery when car is off (12.5V) and when the car is on (12.4V). So this screams bad alternator to me.

In looking on NAM's boards I see that , chadtoolio in this post said.
Quote:
Remove front bumper cover, bumper reinforcement with crush tubes, pull 4 clips out of RH Rad. core support to fender liner. Disconnect horn wire on RH side, pull Rad. core support out to gain access. Disconnect battery, Remove alt belt, 3 bolts for alternator, one plug in connector at alt. and 10mm nut for B positive wire on Alt.
But, if I follow the Bentley Mini Cooper Service Manual steps on "Alternator, removing and installing (Cooper)", I don't remove the bumper, but need a "special tool 11 8 390 to release drive belt tension" and a "lock pin (special tool 11 8 280) to lock drive belt tensioner" and have to do the following...
  1. Disconnect Battery
  2. Remove fuel tank vent valve
  3. Remove Splash Shield
  4. Remove right front wheel
  5. Remove right front wheel housing liner
  6. Release tension using "special tools"
  7. Remove intake manifold
  8. Then disconect the alternator and remove
So, these two steps aren't even similar except the belt & alternator part. So, does anyone have more details?

Also, has anyone used an OEM (non-Mini) alternator? The Mini part is $400, then OEM is $160.

Scott
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  #2  
Old 02-08-2008, 09:05 AM
chadtoolio chadtoolio is offline
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HAhh, theres more than one way to skin a cat....I never even read the repair instructions that were suggested by MINI. I have replaced a few alternators on them over the 6 years of working on them and have always done them my way. However, I just read them and it is exactly how the Bently suggests. I will say that doing it the way that I suggested is very easy and the instructions don't differ in between the "S" and non "S" models. Do which ever way works for you... FYI though, it only takes me about 15 minutes to remove the entire front bumper and every thing needed to get to the Alt.

Chad
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  #3  
Old 02-08-2008, 09:11 AM
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greengobln greengobln is offline
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don't forget to install the new one HAHAHa
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  #4  
Old 02-08-2008, 09:22 AM
Bang110 Bang110 is offline
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I dont have a clue how to do it on the Mini but I rebuilt the motor on my Bronco not to long ago and I am good with mechanical things. I would come give you a hand if you needed it. I am in Escondido.
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  #5  
Old 02-08-2008, 10:17 AM
sck_nogas sck_nogas is offline
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Well, after getting pricing from Brecht Mini for the 2002 R50 alternator ($525 after discount) and online from ToeOut Performance for $353, I called Brecht to get their repair estimate of $1,100 and called another place European Auto Center in Poway (closer to me) for their estimate of $650. I think I'm going to let EAC do it for $650. It would too many days to have ToeOut ship to me and then do it myself, and EAC is only $125 more than the Brecht parts only price. So... I'm solved for now...

Plus, with my CVT I'd need to do a few extra steps...

But since I have built a longer detailed steps for both options in case anyone else needed it, I'll post them here. ENJOY!

Here's the two options spelled out...

Option #1 - Chadtoolio's method.
1. Remove front bumper cover
1. Raise vehicle & support
2. Remove splash shield under engine. 3 bolts, 2 screws
3. Remove screws holding bumper cover to Modular Front End (MFE)
4. Remove plastic rivets securing bumper to lower spoiler
5. Remove bolts securing bumper cover to position adjustment bracket
6. Detach bumper cover clips from bumper carrier
7. Disconnect fog lights, turn signals, & outside temperature sensor
8. Lift off bumper cover
2. Remove Front bumper carrier
1. Pull out electrical harness for outside temperature sensor
2. Remove fasteners securing front bumper carrier to front frame supports
3. Remove nuts from crush stand tubes
4. Lift out bumper carrier (watch for cables or hoses to be snagged)
3. pull 4 clips out of RH Rad. core support to fender liner.
1. Detach both front wheel housing liners from MFE
4. Disconnect horn wire on RH side,
5. Disconnect CVT radiator & cap lines
1. Remove screw holding CVT radiator to radiator
2. slide left to disengage
3. disconnect & plug CVT radiator lines
6. Remove front crush tubes
7. Remove bolt mounting each tube to the MFE
8. pull Rad. core support out to gain access.
1. Install two 100 mm (4 inch) m8 bolts to support the MFE
2. slide MFE forward
9. Disconnect battery
10. Remove alt belt
1. ???
11. Remove alternator
1. Remove 3 bolts for alternator, one plug in connector at alt. and 10mm nut for B positive wire on Alt.
When reinstalling, don't forget to do the following...
1. Replace radiator hose clamp
2. top off CVT fluid
3. top off & bleed cooling system

Option #2 - Bentley Service Manual method.
1. Raise vehicle & support
2. Disconnect battery
3. Remove fuel tank vent valve
1. disconnect vent hoses via quick fit connectors
2. straighten retaining tab
3. slide vent valve off bracket
4. remove electrical harness connector
4. Remove splash shield under engine 3 bolts, 2 screws
5. Remove Right font wheel
6. Remove Right front wheel housing liner
7. Remove alt belt
1. Use special tool 11 8 390 to release drive belt tension
2. Use lock pin (special tool 11 8 280) to lock drive belt tensioner
3. lift off drive belt
8. Remove Intake Manifold
1. Remove air filter housing
1. Detach air duct from air filter housing
2. detach wire harness
3. Remove air filter housing mounting screws
4. Detach crankcase breather hose
5. Lift air filter housing
2. remove throttle valve assembly
1. Loosen & remove air duct clamp at throttle assembly
2. detach air duct
3. disconnect electric harness connector
4. detach fuel vent line
5. loosen & remove 4 throttle assembly mounting screws
6. lift off throttle assembly
3. Remove brake booster vacuum line
1. Press brake booster vacuum line locking ring downward to detach from manifold
2. remove hose from PCV valve
4. Remove fuel rail cover
1. Squeeze locking tabs to detach rear of cover
2. tilt and pull cover forward until plastic clips detach from fuel rail (careful, they break easily)
5. Detach electrical harness connector from intake air temp/MAP sensor
6. Detach electrical harness connector from knock sensor
7. Disconnect top fuel vent line and unclip at fuel rail
8. Detach Fuel Rail from top of engine
1. disconnect fuel injector electrical harness connector
2. disconnect harness connector
3. remove cover from harness loom and swing harness out of way to left side of engine
4. working at fuel rail, unclip hoses and ducts. Cut wire tires as needed
5. disconnect vacuum line at base of fuel pressure regulator
6. remove 2 fuel rail mounting bolts
9. Remove fuel rail together with fuel injectors from intake manifold
1. unclip fuel line from engine vibrations damper bracket
2. carefully fold hose to right & rear of engine. Protect fuel rail & injectors in a clean plastic bag
10. Remove oil dipstick
11. Remove intake manifold mounting bolts in sequence working outside to inside
12. Unclip coolant line below manifold
13. lift manifold
9. Remove alternator
1. Remove 3 bolts for alternator, one plug in connector at alt. and 10mm nut for B positive wire on Alt.
When reinstalling, don't forget to do the following...
1. replace intake manifold profile gaskets
2. torque manifold to cylinder head to 26 Nm
3. Coat fuel injector sealing o-rings with anti seize agent
4. torque fuel rail to intake manifold to 25 Nm
5. Replace sealing ring between throttle valve assembly and intake manifold
6. torque throttle valve assembly to intake manifold to 9 Nm
7. torque air filter housing to body 7-10 Nm
8. Replace air duct clamp
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  #6  
Old 02-08-2008, 01:33 PM
chadtoolio chadtoolio is offline
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NICE POST, but this would be my complete method...Installation is reverse of removal, and don't forget to bleed the cooling system!

Option #1 - Chadtoolio's method.


1. Remove front bumper cover
1. Raise vehicle & support
2. Remove splash shield under engine. 3 bolts, 2 screws
3. Remove screws holding bumper cover to Modular Front End (MFE)
4. Remove upper bumper cover screws.
5. Remove bolts securing bumper cover to position adjustment bracket
6. Disconnect fog lights, turn signals, & outside temperature sensor
7. Lift off bumper cover

2. Remove Front bumper carrier
1. Pull out electrical harness for outside temperature sensor
2. Remove fasteners securing front bumper carrier to front frame supports
3. Remove 16mm bolts from crush stand tubes to subframe.
4. Remove (2) 10mm bolts from cruch tube to Radiator core support
5. Lift out bumper carrier w/crush tubes (watch for cables or hoses to be snagged)

3. pull 4 clips out of RH Rad. core support to fender liner.
1. Detach both front wheel housing liners from MFE
4. Disconnect horn wire on RH side.
5. Detach upper radiator hose from elbow.

6. pull Rad. core support out to gain access.
1. Install two 100 mm (4 inch) m8 bolts to support the Rad Core support
2. slide Radiator core support forward
7. Disconnect battery

8. Remove alt belt, using 3/8ths ratchet in tensioner(you need the special tool if you have an "S"
1. ???
9. Remove alternator
1. Remove 3 bolts for alternator, one plug in connector at alt. and 10mm nut for B positive wire on Alt.



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Last edited by chadtoolio; 02-08-2008 at 01:35 PM.
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  #7  
Old 02-08-2008, 01:41 PM
sck_nogas sck_nogas is offline
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I bow before your greatness!


By the way, I just heard from EAC, that Brecht (the place they were getting the alternator from) doesn't have the right one for my car, even though their computer says it's the right part, it doesn't fit. So, they have to get the part from another place, and it'll be in on Tuesday.

C'est la vie, would have happened to me if I did it myself.

Scott
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  #8  
Old 02-11-2008, 05:55 PM
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Rawhyde Rawhyde is offline
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Why not ****** the alternator off the car and take it to a starter/alternator shop and get the original unit rebuilt? You'll save a ton of money, and you'll be certain it'll fit, because it came off the same car.

Rawhyde
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  #9  
Old 03-30-2010, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadtoolio View Post

(you need the special tool if you have an "S"
Do You have picture of these special tools?
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:18 PM
rsvp9146 rsvp9146 is offline
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You don't need to remove the intake manifold. Just extend the front bumper/radiator and you'll have enough room to remove the alternator.
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Old 08-09-2010, 11:52 AM
GirlfriendsGreaseMonkey GirlfriendsGreaseMonkey is offline
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Hate to drag up a thread that's 5 months old, but I have to say thanks for the write-up!
My girlfriend's '05 had the alternator go bad, and I was wondering how I'd go about doing this. I haven't actually replaced it yet (we're going to pick up the new alternator later today, when the money decides to go home to the bank...), but I've taken the car apart in anticipation. I didn't do everything exactly, but this still helped immensely!
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Old 08-12-2010, 07:35 PM
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succubus succubus is offline
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So you gotta drain the cooling system? I don't see that as a step in your writeup. No?
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Old 12-11-2010, 04:15 AM
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I have an 03 MCS that has just succumb to the alternator failure. I have already purchase a reman'd alternator from Alternator Pro for $270 fedex'd & no core charge. I will look into taking photos & using chadtoolio's method and posting up here at a later date.......all going well !!
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Old 12-11-2010, 05:32 AM
ZippyNH ZippyNH is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCW03 View Post
I have an 03 MCS that has just succumb to the alternator failure. I have already purchase a reman'd alternator from Alternator Pro for $270 fedex'd & no core charge. I will look into taking photos & using chadtoolio's method and posting up here at a later date.......all going well !!
Good luck with the alternator...I recall a member that got 3 bad ones from that place if I remember right before they gave up and got one from the dealer...price and warrenty seemed good from the website though!! Maybe it was just bad luck.
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Old 12-11-2010, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZippyNH View Post
Good luck with the alternator...I recall a member that got 3 bad ones from that place if I remember right before they gave up and got one from the dealer...price and warrenty seemed good from the website though!! Maybe it was just bad luck.
Yeah, I am a little skeptical, so I will see how it all pans out. I have kept the old one & may just have that rebuilt. Will keep all posted.
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:39 PM
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Job Done

Quote:
Originally Posted by chadtoolio View Post

NICE POST, but this would be my complete method...Installation is reverse of removal, and don't forget to bleed the cooling system!

Option #1 - Chadtoolio's method.


1. Remove front bumper cover
1. Raise vehicle & support
2. Remove splash shield under engine. 3 bolts, 2 screws
3. Remove screws holding bumper cover to Modular Front End (MFE)
4. Remove upper bumper cover screws.
5. Remove bolts securing bumper cover to position adjustment bracket
6. Disconnect fog lights, turn signals, & outside temperature sensor
7. Lift off bumper cover

2. Remove Front bumper carrier
1. Pull out electrical harness for outside temperature sensor
2. Remove fasteners securing front bumper carrier to front frame supports
3. Remove 16mm bolts from crush stand tubes to subframe.
4. Remove (2) 10mm bolts from cruch tube to Radiator core support
5. Lift out bumper carrier w/crush tubes (watch for cables or hoses to be snagged)

3. pull 4 clips out of RH Rad. core support to fender liner.
1. Detach both front wheel housing liners from MFE
4. Disconnect horn wire on RH side.
5. Detach upper radiator hose from elbow.

6. pull Rad. core support out to gain access.
1. Install two 100 mm (4 inch) m8 bolts to support the Rad Core support
2. slide Radiator core support forward
7. Disconnect battery

8. Remove alt belt, using 3/8ths ratchet in tensioner(you need the special tool if you have an "S"
1. ???
9. Remove alternator
1. Remove 3 bolts for alternator, one plug in connector at alt. and 10mm nut for B positive wire on Alt.



Great post chadtoolio, I compared the Bentley procedure with chadtoolio's. Super simple, remember to detach both wheel well covers. I swung the entire assembly out, hinged the assembly from the left side (drivers) alternator end a lot further out for access & rested it on a jack stand. While I was in there I changed out my radiator fan as well, due it only having high speed.
Over all the job took about 2hrs, fairly straight forward. I have some photos along the way, I will edited them & put them in my gallery for anyone interested.
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:27 AM
DavidBauder DavidBauder is offline
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This is a 2004 R50 with CVT Tranny...

I used the below method and it worked great for me. I did not touch the drivers side wheel liner though as others have suggested be removed. I could angle out the radiator enough to get a wrench on the alternator and replace it.

I didn't know what some of it meant but I figured it out. It's not insanely hard, just you gotta remember where all screws and bolts go and get the bumper in place BEFORE you start fully tightening down bolts because if you tighten them too early, other parts won't slide on correctly.

I took just 3 pics during the process of doing it.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'm in Atlanta, so locals could possibly ask me for help.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.


Quote:
Originally Posted by chadtoolio View Post

NICE POST, but this would be my complete method...Installation is reverse of removal, and don't forget to bleed the cooling system!

Option #1 - Chadtoolio's method.


1. Remove front bumper cover
1. Raise vehicle & support
2. Remove splash shield under engine. 3 bolts, 2 screws
3. Remove screws holding bumper cover to Modular Front End (MFE)
4. Remove upper bumper cover screws.
5. Remove bolts securing bumper cover to position adjustment bracket
6. Disconnect fog lights, turn signals, & outside temperature sensor
7. Lift off bumper cover
2. Remove Front bumper carrier
1. Pull out electrical harness for outside temperature sensor
2. Remove fasteners securing front bumper carrier to front frame supports
3. Remove 16mm bolts from crush stand tubes to subframe.
4. Remove (2) 10mm bolts from cruch tube to Radiator core support
5. Lift out bumper carrier w/crush tubes (watch for cables or hoses to be snagged)
3. pull 4 clips out of RH Rad. core support to fender liner.
1. Detach both front wheel housing liners from MFE
4. Disconnect horn wire on RH side.
5. Detach upper radiator hose from elbow.

6. pull Rad. core support out to gain access.
1. Install two 100 mm (4 inch) m8 bolts to support the Rad Core support
2. slide Radiator core support forward
7. Disconnect battery

8. Remove alt belt, using 3/8ths ratchet in tensioner(you need the special tool if you have an "S"
1. ???
9. Remove alternator
1. Remove 3 bolts for alternator, one plug in connector at alt. and 10mm nut for B positive wire on Alt.




Last edited by DavidBauder; 09-09-2011 at 07:11 AM.
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  #18  
Old 11-03-2011, 08:42 AM
technicallyrite technicallyrite is offline
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Thanks guys, this was a helpful thread! With a helper, we also used DavidBauder's method. The whole process took about 2 hours. It's actually easier than it looks, which is a testament to the mini MFE being a good design. One of the hardest parts was fishing for a marker light wire after it was all buttoned up ;D
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Old 01-19-2013, 01:26 PM
Largekid Largekid is offline
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does anyone know anything about the "special tool" required on S models for the tensioner? I don't want to pull everything apart to find out it really is a special tool and not a ratchet end or something lol.
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:55 AM
chicolean83 chicolean83 is offline
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You can use a 16mm socket and a long pry bar to release tension and stick a Allen key in the second hole. Their are write ups on alternative methods to releasing the tension on Nam. Should of read this b4 buying the tool lol.

Good$$Mendez
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:14 AM
wakeslayer wakeslayer is offline
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02 alternator out

Hey NAM folks,

My daughter's alternator decided to croak last night. Just beginning my research to add to Daddy's Mini Repair's skill set.....

I found this video on Youtube.


That is more or less what I thought when first looking at it this morning. Now going through this post, I am not super interested in removing the front of the vehicle. I found a reman locally for $204, and there is a shop that will do a rebuild for $95 in half a day.

Any opinions on the removal process outlined by this guy?

Thanks

Mike
Lead Technician - Daddy's Mini Repair Svc
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:50 AM
wakeslayer wakeslayer is offline
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In response to my own question....

I have no idea how that guy in the youtube video was able to get to the bottom bolt on the alternator. I currently have the front end about 2/3 off. My hands, nor any of my tools were going to pull that off... This is not a simple job in my opinion, and I cannot imagine it being done in two hours unless we were dealing with a relatively new vehicle. As this one has 163k on it, it's going to take a bit.

More later.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:50 AM
 
 
 
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