If your cat is restricting more airflow than normal the back pressure with destroy your turbo and then your cat! Put on a DP for now is money is tight, most you'll pay for a DP is $300.

 

Update:
After installing new turbo, oil pipes, oil, and coolant. I was told to flush the system. We undid spark plugs and turned on the car. It took three times to turn the car on as it would shut off shortly after...third try it began "flushing" I assume...then car would shut itself off after 10 seconds. I turned the car on three times with the spark plugs undone and it shut itself off each time after 10 seconds of "flushing". We then plugged the spark plugs back in, and turned the car on for real. Turbo was smoking, each time car was on. I'm unsure if it's normal due to coolant or oil being burned off, even though we were careful not to spill when pouring. Or, if it's something else. We did not prime the turbo before fully installing it in the car. Could that be the problem, is flushing the system not enough, and does it sound like a flushed it right? Thanks!

 

Anyone have broken valves.
Yellow engine light came on with reduced power while driving after 3 + hours.
47,700 miles heads were carbon cleaned beginning of summer some thee thousand miles before.
Mini shop is replacing one to four valves.
They are saying only valves one particularly are damaged everything else is okay except maybe carbon deposits.
Do valves go on these cars???

Change oil every five thousand.
Oil had around three when this happened.

 

triniricanchele........I don't know what you were flushing, but.....the only reference to "flushing" I've ever heard of is in reference to the cooling system.

Are you running now?

 

The reason why the valves break is because of the carbon builds up on the valve faces (seen here) around the edge which then the carbon heats up as you drive and the area where the carbon has attached gets very hot and eventually the metal on the valve burns breaks off. Anywhere there's carbon in the combustion chambers these areas are the hottest, use BG 44K every 3 months to prevent this. You won't find better carbon deposit remover!

When bought my MCS last year right from the get go I have pre-ignition which is cause be of all the carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, all over the piston top, around the rings and on the valves, 6 bottles later and no more pre-ignition and engine runs/idles like a new engine. If you got carbon build up on your valves, then you got carbon build up in your combustion chambers.

 

BG I assume that I can get at autozone?
Mini should tell us this but this job is lots of $

 

BG 44K (or any other additive) won't do much for the valves. Combustion chamber maybe, valves no. The only way to effectively clean the valves is by walnut blasting. Many independent shops will do this for ~$300.

 

BG 44K only cleans the combustion chambers and valve faces for those with Direct Injection engines, you still need the walnut blasting done for the intake valves and intake runners. BG 44K also cleans the entire fuel system, even injectors. You can buy it direct or from Amazon and even eBay. BG doesn't sell their products to general stores like AutoZone or similar automotive stores, they sell mostly to places like repair shops that offer injector cleaning and charge you boat loads for services. BG 44K does do what it claims, especially for those with port injection.

That Chevron Techron injector cleaner is great for gas related deposits, but not for heavy oily deposits that is typical for the N14 engines. Not all cars burn oil like our cars do and that's why bottles of Techron do very little, probably for injectors. This BG 44K stuff is thicker in comparison to the Techron stuff, short of removing your cylinder head this BG 44K is the last option before having to remove your cylinder head to clean the carbon off.

 

BG 44K is a fuel additive I am assuming.
The carbon issue is due to the direct fueling system assuming that how often is this treatment necessary?
Had the walnut head cleaning done at 43,000 miles.
Valve destroying at 47,000 miles of which mini says damage was done with high heat of carbon valve not turning properly in the seat.
Should all exhaust valves be replaced?
Is any of this due to oil usage? Engine does consume some oil.

Thnx

 

I was told that flushing was when you allowed the fluids to circulate through the car. I'm sure it's an incorrect term. My car is running now, though I do have an engine light on in my large speedometer. I am smelling smoke coming from the engine when my air conditioner is running and normally when my car is stopped in traffic. Any ideas?

 

Hello Everyone-

I have 2009 Clubman S Auto with 73k on it. It was -4 degrees F this morning. I started it up and let it warm up for 15 minutes while I shoveled the driveway. I then started my commute which is 30-40 minutes. About 15 minutes into the drive it went into limp mode while going 50mph. It was pretty fricking scary honestly. I got a backfire and immediate engine break on a slick 2 lane highway.

I got it pulled over to a safe place, I was only able to go 10 mph. I was experiencing fluctuating idle like shown here. After I got the tow truck scheduled I then shut the engine off fearing I would not be able to start it again. I restarted it, got the fluctuating idle and the check engine light. This lasted for 10 seconds, then the check engine light disappeared and the idle went back to normal. Using my bluetooth scanner I got the code "P1638, Throttle Valve Position Control". I then drove it to the dealer 30 minutes without issue. It is there being diagnosed now.

Can someone here point me in the right direction as this thread is very confusing? From what I'm reading there seems to be a bad design on throttle body causing condensation? Some people are ahving there whole throttle body replaced. Others just cleaned. It also seems liek Mini doesn't know what is going on considering the (Canadian Engineers are working on the problem) in this thread. Is there some sort of Service Bulletin? I just want to be prepared when the dealer calls me back. I'm obviously out of warranty and don't want to be charged for a bad design flaw they can't fix or don't know the correct fix.

Thanks for your help!

**Update**

Ok, the Stealer got back to me. They want $660 for a new modified intake manifold designed for this colder weather. I replied why am I paying for a part design defect and why is MINI not covering thier insufficient engineering? He didn't budge said he would talk to the service manager.

I meanwhile called MINI USA and explained the situation. I was shocked that I got a nice representative. She is looking it on her end and contacted the dealer.

 

The problem you described was the reason why I had to dump my '08 clubman S after only 10 months. Took delivery in May 08 and returned to the dealer in March 09 under lemon law. Once the weather got cold, it was never able to be driven. Towed at least 4 times to the dealer. First they cleaned the ice out of the intact, then eventually changed to a new intake manifold (once they designed one). Still didn't work. I think I drove it maybe 1500 miles all winter (considering I was driving 80 mi/day, that's nothing).

I've read of similar problems from 07-11 S models, and I didn't buy another mini until everything was fixed. I haven't read of any issues with the 2011+ LCIs, but I may be wrong. I've now had my 2013 MCS for 15 months, and no problems in the cold (down to -10° F standing temperature).

 

I've got an '08 clubman S and I've now had this problem 4 times this winter (in Ottawa Canada). I had it a few times last winter too. I basically need to drive the car in limp mode for 15-30 minutes, then park and turn the engine off for 5-10 minutes and restart a few times until it is no longer in limp mode. Of course the problems only started after I was out of warranty plus I was not the original owner so had not chance to try to get a warranty fix. So far I've just been living with it, but today I went to the dealer (got there in limp mode as they are now just down the road). The service guy admitted that yes the Mini's had that problem and he was quite familiar with the issue. He said though that a new manifold was no guarantee that this problem would not re-occur and furthermore that all cars could have this problem in cold weather!! (what BS that is). He said he'd check the parts and labour cost, discuss it with his manager and see what they could do for me, so I took a seat for a few minutes. He then called me back to his booth and gave me a printout of the only manifold available for my VIN (11 61 7 595 078) ($575) and said there was no redesigned manifold available for my VIN (TP71650 MM33) ! How can this be?? Basically he said there was no solution other than opening it up, drying out the throttle, etc.
How can that be?
Have other people here received a replacement "cold weather manifold" (either in or out of warranty) for an '08 Clubman? What is the part number?
These cars are a piece of crap. I'm going to have to engineer my solution, or put a heater in the hood overnight when I'm parked at home and I know it will be under -15C, or probably I'll just sell the car this Spring.

 

Any update from MINI USA? I have the same issue when it's really cold here. Luckily it hasn't happened while I'm driving, only on start-up.

 

Here is the factory version, it says it fits your Clubman. I was going to buy one for my MINI Cooper S 2007, but not sure how hard it is to install:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2008-C...ate/ES1875402/

 

Thanks so much! I may buy it and have a friendly non-dealer mechanic install it or look for the install instructions. If you find out any more about how hard/easy it is to install please let me know.


...Roger

 

I got Mini USA to half. I'm pretty disappointed they didn't pay for the whole thing. I'm also disappointed in the Mini dealer would do nothing as well as they knowly sold the car to me with a faulty manifold that would sure fail in Wisconsin cold weather.

 

Check my earlier post. There is an updated cold weather manifold. Unless yours already has it installed? I had to contact MiniUSA directly. Explain your situation thoroughly and that this is a widespread propblem you know about in cold weather. The Rep will act dumb as they never heard it it before. But, they will then contact your dealer. Hopefully you can get them to cover a portion as I did.

 

Good to know. I'll have to call them. I did nto do the work yet, since the dealer charges a LOT for the work. Half off would be easier to swallow, but I agree, MINI knew of the defect, fixed the defect with a new part, yet does not fix it under warranty. Seems like a safety issue also if it causes cars to go into LIMP mode while driving.

 

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And it's back. What do ya know. Good ol' Mini, with the same symptoms.

 

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I have got the exact same symptoms that I had quoted I had from 3 years ago. This is what I had done 3 years ago. Can't remember all the reasons. Some was recall, some warranty, and some out of pocket. If I had to guess, my O2 sensor went again?

• Performed recall on Auxilary Water Pump
• Replaced "additional coolant pump for the exhaust turbo", hose clamp, and added coolant
• Replaced corroded (valve stem seized) right rear Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) Stem
• Performed Oil (98B1MI Motor Oil SAE 5W-30 Longlife: 832511) and Filter Service and topped off all fluids
• Replaced Engine Belt (Ribbed V-Belt:115031) (was cracking/worn)
• Adjusted and Greased Sunroof
• Right Tie Rod wouldn't move for alignment (I declined to have it fixed at this time)
• Replaced Coolant Temperature Sensor and did System Bleed (was causing slight coolant leak)
• Replaced Rev Counter (Tachometer) Assembly and reporgrammed control units
• NYS Inspection with Emissions
• Replaced Inlet Pressure Sensor (fault for intake manifold pressure sensor found)
• Replaced Lambda Monitor Sensor (O2 Sensor)

 

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Had one on my amazon wish list for a while now. Guess it's probably a good time to just buy it.