I have a 2011 Factory JCW and have had this problem twice. Both times has been when it was below freezing. I drive home (about 25 min) from work and it goes into a heated garage. I read that it was from condensation forming in the throttle body putting the car into limp mode. My garage has no vents for condensation, so I leave a window in the garage open now and have yet to have the problem come back and it has been two months. Just sucks now when I drive to work at 5am I have to get into a cold car :(

 

Well its my first winter with my '07 MCS that I bought in July and I had this happen to me this morning at 7am when it was -4F and after work at 4pm when the temperature was 15F. I have my car outdoors at all times since I have no other option.

I started the car and the CEL came on and then turned into the CEL with no engine power. I let it run like that while it revved for a couple minutes and then turned the car off. Repeated this three times until I just had the CEL and drove it to work without issue. I came on here quickly and read the first 1st page during my lunch break and scheduled an appointment for Saturday at my dealer. After work the CEL and no engine power came on right away when I started my car. This time the engine actually died 2 or 3 times. Eventually I got it to start with just the CEL and made it home. I did a scan and got this reading:

P1638
Throttle valve
Position control
Throttle stuck temporarily

I drive 25 miles each way to work and back so I'm not looking forward to tomorrow but I'll keep my fingers crossed. From the 8 or 9 pages I've read I see the dealer will most likely replace my intake manifold and that it won't actually solve the problem. I'll update after my visit to the dealer Saturday.

 

I had this problem 2 weeks after getting my MINI Cooper S in November of 2008 (it's a 2009 model). It had nothing to do with snow, but happened when the temp was below 20 degrees F. The intake manifold service fixed the problem.

 

I told them about the problem. Diagnostics confirmed the problem. They had the new manifolds in stock and replaced immediately. All done under warranty...

 

Update from Thursday:

Friday morning was really cold again and this time I couldn't even drive the car to work because of how bad it was. I would turn the car on and the CEL with no engine power light would come on right away and the engine would start to rev. It sounded as if someone was slamming on the gas really hard and it looked like the hood was shaking from it. I let it run twice for ten minutes and when it did get any better I just borrowed my brother's car and drove to work. After work I let the car run with just the CEL light on for about ten minutes.

Saturday:

My appointment was scheduled for 11am so I was up at 9am nervous if I'd even be able to get it to the dealership. Luckily the weather had drastically improved by then (of course), it was in the high 30s and my car started without a CEL. I got to the dealer and told the service person what had happened the last two days and what the problem probably was based on the reading I did here. I asked him if he was familiar with the issue and he said that they'd seen it before. He told me that they could take the car but would have to recreate the situation before they got the go ahead to order the intake manifold. I told him that they could take my car as long as I got a loaner since there's no way I could get to work or anywhere else without one. I received a 2011 MCS loaner about 25 minutes after being at the dealership and was I was anticipating that I'd have to wait a couple days to get my car back. Luckily I got a call around 5pm that day stating that the intake manifold had been replaced and I would be able to pick the car up. I am picking my car up after work today. I'm guessing they didn't wait to "recreate the situation" because the weather is a lot warmer now for at least this week and my car would just be sitting there while I put on miles on their loaner.

 

Hello all -

New to this site and in need of advice.
My new 2010 mini Cooper has 1,100 miles after 5 months. I have had to tow 2x-once for a failed Servo motor; 2nd time for a blown vacum pump which in turn killed the timing belt = toasted engine. Both times the car did not want to start or ran very rough with no acceleration. Check engine light came on both times with the oil light coming on before the last time the car died. Both times it was cold--

Dealer has offered to replace engine--do I accept this car back? Does it effect the trade in value of the car?

I love the car and would prefer a new one--do I have any options?

Many thanks--eg

 

Unless you've had other, major issues with the car, I'd accept the replacement engine. On the whole, a new engine is probably a wash where the value of the vehicle is concerned (compared to the same vehicle with the original engine that hasn't had any issues). One thing's for certain: at this point, your car isn't worth much without a new engine in it...

I've heard you can sometimes get MINI to take the vehicle back on trade for a new one; can't recall the name of that program or how it works exactly, but I'm sure someone will chime in with that information.

 

Thanks -

I just found out today the replacement engine is not new but a refurbished one. It will have the original 4yr 50K warrenty but all Mini is willing to add on is an extended maintenance warrenty meaning oil changes. This doesn't seem to be much of an offer.

Thoughts?

Eg

 

Well, to some degree, they've got you between a rock and a hard place; as I already mentioned, the car isn't worth much without a functioning engine. You really don't have a lot of choices with regard to the warranty repairs; you can either accept their offer (which is what I would probably do), decline it, try to negotiate a better repair deal, or take some kind of legal route (which will probably do no one any good -- except the lawyers that get involved). Perhaps you can push MINI for a new (rather than rebuilt) engine, but there's probably no reason to assume that a rebuilt engine isn't just as good as a new one. It will [presumably] have been restored to like-new condition in function and performance. If there are problems down the road, you'll still have a full warranty on the engine, starting from its in-service date (not the vehicle purchase date). A number of folks on the forum have had their engines replaced, and I don't recall hearing that any have had issues.

This may seem minimalist (pardon the pun), but all MINI is obligated to do under the vehicle warranty is repair or replace (at their discretion) the defective/damaged components -- which is exactly what they're offering to do. A whole new (albeit rebuilt) engine is a far better solution for you than if the dealer had tried to cobble your existing engine back together by replacing only the defective/damaged components.

If you still have some level of discomfort accepting the repaired vehicle, you should speak to the dealership about MINI's vehicle replacement program; in some cases (and I don't know if this is one of them), they will take your old vehicle back on credit toward a new vehicle. This program (as I understand it) provides a courtesy service somewhere between a lemon buyback (for which your vehicle would not currently qualify) and a trade-in. But as I said, I'm not savvy about all the details, so it's something you would have to discuss with your dealership.

 

Many many thanks-

I'm pretty familiar with the rock and a hard place at this point. I can see your point on the rebuilt vs new engine it's just such a shock to have things go this wrong this quickly. Compounded of course by the fact that owning a Mini has been a dream since they showed back up on the car scene.

I'll let you know how it all turns out-

Cheers-

eg

 

If you still have some level of discomfort accepting the repaired vehicle, you should speak to the dealership about MINI's vehicle replacement program; in some cases (and I don't know if this is one of them), they will take your old vehicle back on credit toward a new vehicle. This program (as I understand it) provides a courtesy service somewhere between a lemon buyback (for which your vehicle would not currently qualify) and a trade-in. But as I said, I'm not savvy about all the details, so it's something you would have to discuss with your dealership.[/QUOTE]

This car cannot qualify for the lemon buyback?

 

Hmmm.... I admit I haven't been keeping up with this thread; IMHO with the new-engined MINI now on it's fifth year of production, depending on how many miles you have on yours I'd tend to be sympathetic. This issue should have been resolved long ago with a design change.

My 2-07 build R56 had a tranny replacement at about 12K miles after I took it in & complained about the cold start issue the first time. I'd mentioned in passing I was having issues getting into 1st & 2nd. Apparently they deemed it worth a replacement. As this was a the start of the 2nd year's production I 'assumed' I got a new cogbox... not many "refurbs" available, my box had to be shipped in from Germany.

Whatever they did at the dealership about the cold start wasn't effective. It only got worse as the weather grew cold. That incident sparked my desire to cultivate a relationship with the MINI dealer closer to home, who resolved the issue a few months later... after five weeks in the shop.

I'm approaching 74K miles now & my big concern is oil usage: I don't drive nearly as much as I used to (having become unemployed a year ago) but at $8+ a quart for Syntec I'm uncomfortably aware of when it needs topping off. Seems like a quart every 500 600 miles, maybe less.

Now that weather's warmer (& my miles are increasing) I'm going to be keeping a close eye on the dipstick.

 

It looks like I can't create a new thread, so I'll post this here...

 

There's some malarky there. The rev limiter is precisely there to prevent over reving the engine using the throttle.

You CAN over rev the engine by downshifting and popping the clutch and the rev limiter won't help that.

 

.

 

My Yellow outline check engine light came on today (not flashing, but always on). Not terribly cold, maybe 40 degrees. Seems like I am running on half power maybe....not sure. I was able to get around to and from to pick up my daughter from school. Any ideas what it is? I opened the gas cap and closed it. Shut down the car and restarted a few times, but it is still on. It is a 07 MCS R56. I'm out of warranty, so I'm dreading taking it to a dealer, since I heard they charge about $75 for a diagnostic check....

Suggestions?

FYI, I already had the Timing chain tensioner replaced this year, (May) so it should not be that issue.

 

The yellow outlined engine lite can come on for all sorts of reasons. This year alone it's caused me to have the thermostat replaced, two ignition coils, the before-cat oxygen sensor... glad I bought into an extended warranty as all that - plus replacing a broken timing chain guide - woulda run close to $5,000.

When I had the cold-start problem the yellow warning light was half outline, half solid yellow. Last visit for THAT seems to have cured it: replaced high pressure fuel pump, had updated engine breather system fitted. Never got the updated intake manifold I was told was avalable at that time as they were in very short supply.

My advice? Biting the bullet & getting things put to right is the only way you'll get your MCS running proper again. You looked into whether you might have an independent shop in your area? Outfits that do Bimmers ought to do MINIS now too. Chances are you might save a few bucks but likely not many, sadly. These cars aren't at all cheap to get serviced

 

I had a yellow engine light myself... I checked it out with INPA and found out that it was the wideband oxygen sensor pumping current. Luckily spraying some WD40 on the contacts and re connecting was all I had to do.

DIS or INPA will tell you exactly what the error is. If not, there is a way to obtain the error code's hex number and compare it to a list (dont remember the procedure, check the WDS on BMW Planet).

 

Yikes....hopefully mine is not that involved. I know the Timing chain is ok, since that was just replaced. I'm taking it in NEXT Tuesday, as the dealer has no openings until then. He said it was ok to drive, since it was just a check engine light. If it flashes, I have issues.
He said it is $125 for diagnostic, but that money will go towards any repairs (if necessary).

 

alexs3d2 I'm curious what that INPA might be. Could you provide a url or other info please? I assume this to be some kind of plug-in gadget?

Wonder if there's an app for this? There's one for just about everything else!

 

INPA is a script engine part of "BMW Standard Tools" used by developers to test and program the vehicle's ECUs. It also allows you to read and delete the error memories of each ECU (and also reset some of the units). It is plain Windows software, which works through a serial or USB to OBD adapter connected to the car.

More information is available at bmwcoding.com and at the electrical section of this website.

 

OK, thanks. Somehow I doubt there's a Mac version (seeing that I'm Mac-centric).

 

I am a new owner of a 2008 MCS and yesterday I got the yellow outlined check engine light to pop up and I am not sure what I should do. This happened on my way to have some all season tires put on at Tires Plus. I had them try to run the codes and they told me they were blank. I also tried to use the OBC to view them per instructions from this site and nothing comes up. See the video below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJn2Z8sRfBI


This is the sound of my engine bay. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnSbYqmlWZg I think I am getting the timing chain chatter. My car is no longer under warranty so I was wondering if anyone know about how much this would cost to get repaired. Thanks for your help.

 

^Tsur,

Wish I could help. I've never gotten that and I have a 2009 MCS.

You're in the right place, though. Someone here will know!

 

I have a 09 clubman and live in Northern VT, it has been VERY cold here for the last week or so, my Mini is doing what so many here have outlined already. Problem for me is I drive half an hour each way to work, were the car sits outside for up to 10 hours, and then, IF it gets to running right it sits in an unheated garage with lots of air movement over night to start the whole mess over the next day.
I love the car, however, although it handles well in the snow/ice, and gets great gas mileage, I cannot have this type of problem everyday at work, if it breaks down at minus 20 degrees it could be a life or death problem. The nearest dealer is 6 hours one way from me and south, so to re-create the issue isn't going to happen. I have a garage that works on Mini's near me, Mine has extended warr. and is 95,000 miles, but Mini won't send them the updated parts, they want the car to go to them first, which I can't do.
Is there a core heater for this car? A water jacket heater may help me during the Vermont winters, if not, I'm afraid I may have to sell which I really do not want to.