Any one with cooling fan staying on or not working check out the resistor pack in the offside top of the cooling fan housing,housing will require removing to check.At this time only way to repair is to change resistor pack which comes with fan and housing assy,good luck.

UK Buddy

 

<raises hand> Me too. It's happened 3 times in the past year, each time correcting itself after 1 or 2 days. Now I'm having the issue again and pondering installing a toggle switch for convenience until I can get it to the dealer. Any advice on DYI replacement of the fan?

 

With very little mechanical knowlege this unit can be replaced even if vehicle has aircon fitted, fan cowling assy can be removed with out disconnecting aircon system new unit comes with fan,resistor,wiring and housing.

 

Thanks. I've been researching various threads and it seems the A/C and cooling radiator can be tilted out after disconnecting only the upper water hose. I ordered a new housing with fan from the dealer and should have it in a day or two. Then I'll place it on the worktable for a few weeks because the existing will run fine as long as the new one is within sight.

 

For anyone who's interested, the cooling fan housing indeed can be pulled up and out once you have the A/C coil and radiator loose and tipped out of the shroud. I ended up draining the coolant from the bottom figuring I'd have a mess just disconnecting the upper hose and I preferred changing out the coolant rather than mix products. Whole process took about 6 hours as I took my time working my way in and double-checking everything as I reassembled it.

As for the operation, the new fan operates just as the old one did. I'll probably replace the low-speed fan relay just to make sure all is right. I only get one fan speed intermittently and for short bursts. Seems to keep the water cool enough as it stays right on temperature.

I do have some photos if someone needs to see some of this process. I'll put them on Flickr.com soon.

EDIT: Soon is here and here are some pics at http://s253.photobucket.com/albums/h...oBFree_001.jpg Start there and use the BACK button and you can see it in order of disassembly.

 

Did you ever replace the low speed fan relay, and did that get the low speed working on the fan again?
I'm having what I think is the same issue with my '04 Cooper S. The fan runs only for short bursts (5-10 sec) and is quite loud. I think the low speed is inoperative, and what I'm hearing is high speed. I have checked this theory by feeling for the relays to click (low speed relay clicks, nothing happens, a few seconds later the high relay clicks and both PS and main cooling fan come on loudly).
I was thinking about changing the fan, though it's a big job and not particularly cheap. I'd replace the relay first if it was readily available - where did you find one?

 

I am experiencing problems with the fan running continuously after the a/c has been on and now the power steering pump has gone From reading a lot of posts I wonder if both things can to be related in some way?

Twice now I have come out to a dead battery - the first time was the fan running "all night" and it killed the battery. The second time no a/c but the steering pump problem.

My MINI (a 2002 S with 80,000 kms) is in for a replacement pump. BMW wanted $1200 for a new one but my mechanic got a rebuilt ZF one of $600 - still a ton of money but you really can't live too well (or long) with a steering pump which cuts in and out.

The a/c replacement fan is quoted at $400 but you can buy the relay for $20. My mechnic says that's all that is needed so I am tempted to do the replacement work myself to avoid all that labour.

Question why that is not the preferred route for other folks who have had this problem

 

For me, too much effort to find someone who would surely know what relay to buy. Since the whole front end comes off to get to the housing anyway, might as well replace the whole thing and be done with it. I've had no issues with the PS pump.

If anyone needs it for experimenting, I still have the old cooling fan and housing sitting in the box the new one came in.

 

Well for one thing it's $20 versus $400. The relay can be sourced at BMW so there should be no problem getting the right one.

It is a ludicrous design to have to dismantle the whole front end to get at a radiator but it doesn't look too difficult so I think I will give it a go.

On the steering pump I got it replaced for just over $1,000 including a battery recharge and $50 worth of fluid - the steering feels very light now so makes me think this had been brewing for some time and I has slowly been dealing with stiffer and stiffer effort.

Finally my mechanic confirms that the battery running down and the pump problems are related and solving one should solve the other

 

True, it is a lot more spendy. Be cautious on what relay you're replacing. I've read that one of the relays is within the fan motor itself (low speed I believe). If your fan remains on in high speed mode, you may also find that there is no low speed. That was my case. Replacing the entire assembly got me back a low speed and corrected the high speed. I'd tell you where I found the article on the subject, but I can't remember at the moment.

The dismantling isn't that hard. Just takes a few hours.

 

I'm having the same problem with the high speed kicking on for short bursts and no low speed. Seems like the following would work:

http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/inde...layCatalogid=0

Any comments?

 

Twice now I have come out to a dead battery - the first time was the fan running "all night" and it killed the battery. The second time no a/c but the steering pump problem.

My '05 Cooper had the power steering pump running after the key was turned off and this ran the battery down overnight- and killed the battery. Along with that, the main wires from the positive battery terminal to the power steering pump "melted". Fortunately there was no fire, but maybe there could have been one. The sound I heard I thought was the power steering fan, but it was actually the power steering pump. Repairs required a new power steering pump, new wiring harness from the positive battery terminal to the starter and power steering pump, new 3 wire plug from other harness (don't know which one) to new pump, new power steering fan (precaution) and a new battery, all from Classic MINI with a 20% N.A.M. discount-thank you Classic and N.A.M. Did work myself but it was a pain in the butt doing it with car on ramps; a lift would have made things waaaay easier. Good news is that my MINI is running again. BTW, this occurred at 116,000 miles.

 

Hello,

I was following along on your posts and was hoping to clarify a few things before I ripped the coop open! lol Thanks for your help in advance!

Do I have to remove the front bumper to remove fan assembly? Where are the connectors located so i check to make sure they are seated properly?

Is there anything else before I start removing parts that I can check? I checked all fuses under hood, checked a few in car, switched relays around so that should be ok. Anything else? What is the 1st step forward if I have to remove parts?

Ive read somewhere that people have checked their power steer fans for blockage? My 5amp fuse under hood WAS blown so perhaps that is part of the problem but Where is that fan so I can check it?

We had a ton of snow here and now the fan stopped working, could have been ice or snow caught in fan or maybe it knocked the connectors loose? The snow/ice has melted since but car overheats!

SIDENOTE: Before the fan stopped working I had noticed that the fan would turn on HIGH BLAST then off, then HIGH BLAST, then off...after turning off car so I assume that means no LOW SPEED FAN. Would a new fan assembly remedy ALL of these problems or are the relays not located on the fan. reminder, this is a 2002 MCS.

Thanks for the help!

Kev

 

I would check the fuse - I think it's #15 but check them all if snow maybe jammed into the fan. That would definitely blow it. The problem I had would not show up except when the a/c had been on but I did have an overheating problem when my fan seized up due to rust a few years back. I don't think that the problem you have is to do with the a/c in winter?

If you have to change the fan relay you do have to remove the bumper and I suggest you get detailed instructions before starting - there is a thread with good pictures but i don't remember if it's on this site. I bought a cd with all the info so was able to use that

 

There's a CD available for this? Do tell.

vjkevlar's "sidenote" does sound a lot like a lost low speed on the cooling fan. Checking all fuses and connections first is a good suggestion. The fan wiring harness connector is at the driver's side end of the radiator near the hood latch, slightly tucked in behind. I'd be surprised if that was loose as it's hard enough to unplug when you want to.

Note the fan speeds are controlled by both water temperature and a/c pressure so it is possible to overheat and notice the fan speed loss without using the a/c. My first lost cooling fan assembly started when I arrived home from a long trip through snow storms. I have the auto-climate control which I leave on auto all the time so the a/c is running though not really cooling.

On a related note, I did send one bad assembly off to UCONN for investigation but to date no one has actually published a sure repair or source for the faulting electrical component. At least not that I've heard about.

Oh, the PS fan is located under and just behind the engine near the oil drain plug. Get out the jack and lift up the MINI if you want to look closely at that thing. May be easier to visit a friendly shop that will let you stand under your MINI when it's on the lift.

 

Does anyone happen to know the temperatures at which the low/high speed fans click on? I believe it's in the Bentley manual but I don't have mine with me at the moment. I have a Scangauge and have been tracking my actual coolant temps for a while now. I'm in hot Florida so A/C line pressure is usually what determines fan speed. In these cooler months, I've noticed temps creeping higher (to be expected) but I could have swore the low speed should click on by 210 or 220 degrees. I've watched my coolant temp climb to 230 while sitting in traffic before clicking the A/C on to get the fan to cool things down. Maybe my temperature switch has gone south.

 

From the Bentley Manual: The cooling fan operates on low speed when the A/C is switched on and the system pressure reaches 8 bar. The fan switches to high speed should the A/C system pressure rise above 18 bar. For the engine cooling system, the fan operates on low speed at 105C (221F). When the temperature drops to 101C (214F) the fan will switch off. The fan switches to high speed at 112C (234F) and remains on high until the system coolant temperature drops by 4C (7F) at which point the system reverts to low speed.

(paraphrased) It also says the dash mounted warning lamp illuminates at an engine temperature equal to or greater than 120C (240F) via the engine control module. The low speed relay is mounted in the engine compartment fuse box and the high speed relay is mounted on the fan housing in the relay pack which includes the high speed relay and a voltage reducing resistor.

 

[QUOTE=ToBFree;2944619]There's a CD available for this? Do tell.

I bought a CD from the UK from a firm called Technical Information System - TIS - which covers all models of BMW up to 2006, including 1st gen MINIs.

There is probably a later version but I tried Googling the company but didn't find it

 

Good info exchange here, and for those with these issues please research in these forums re: cooling fan, power steering fan/pump, overheating. In older minis at least the power steering fan if jammed can melt the harness which also includes radiator cooling fan, and can even incinerate your entire Mini. There is a replacement harness but I cannot swear to it that it prevents that problem. Important to get upgraded gravel shield for power steering fan, it helps keep trees and boulders out, but it is truly an asinine location for it unless it's your fondest wish it should jam up, short out or get smashed. Make it a regular inspection item, ensure it turns freely, listen for it, and of course keep an eye on temp gauge.

 

The upgraded harness put the Power-steering fan on a separate fuse from the radiator fan...when you swap you fan, if you have a spare plug that looks like a power-steering fan plug (on the fan side, the other one, car side is removed), you have the mod. Also there will be a fuse in the drivers compartment added for the fan. A new fuse panel cover was provided for my car when MINI did the modification, all for free.

IMO the best mod you do to save $$$ on maintenance, and improve reliability (will save power-steering fans+Power-steering pumps) is the $79.95 power steering fan duct from MOSS-MINI (saves a 130-170 PS fan, and a $500.00+ install PS pump). It is the OEM part, first installed on the 06 MINI S's with 6 speed automatic cars, and some cabrio's. It is simple to install, and will totally shield PS pump fan. The aftermarket defector shields do little more than the newest fan from MINI, with the built in plastic shield...it prevents plastic bags, etc from getting stuck in the fan, but does not protect/shield it from road grit + water.
[IMG][/IMG]

There have been reports of Power Steering Pump failure for higher mileage Mini Coopers. Moss now has the only BMW Mini Cooper factory solution to extend the life of the power steering pump - a special ducting system to supply much needed air to the power steering pump fan. Drilling required. Professional installation recommended.
*NOTE: No Instructions Available. This Factory Upgraded Power Steering Duct & Panel are both incompatible with skid plates. Aftermarket fan shield will also need to be removed.


Install on my early '05's took 15 minutes, and all i had to do was drill 2 holes in my metal PS fan shroud....newer ones, usually installed under warranty, or sold with replacement fans have come with the holessince early 2005.

 

 

I just did the tyc fan assembly replacement in about 2 hours. the pics in the link above were extrememly helpful. the only sneaky thing was finding how to tip out the top of the radiator. the black expansion pins and the lock-sleeves were kinda stealthy, but after that, badda-bing, badda-boom.

great thread.
matt