Front wheel bearing/hub replacement

BVNitta · #1 09-26-2007, 06:14 AM

Hi guys,

Can someone please post a step-by-step on replacing the front bearing/hub assembly on a 2002 Mini ? Especially any tips or things to watch out for.

I actually started the job but get this, I can't get the freaking rotor off. The torx screw wouldn't move, so I drilled it out and the rotor is still stuck on the hub ! Has this happened to anyone ?

Before I proceed further, I wanted your advice on what works and what doesn't. The axle nut was easy but I peeked at the 4 bolts holding the hub to the control arm and cringed at their location and the rust on them. Is it a good idea to take the driveshaft off ?

Thanks in advance,

BVNitta

meb · #2 09-26-2007, 03:51 PM

...the rotor first. you should borrow or buy an impact racthet. These come with hardened bits ready for abuse. You simply use the appropriate phillips head, insert into the screw and hit the end with a hammer. This forces the screw off. Make sure you lube the screw next time but don't over lube it; we don't want grease pouring onto the rotor when things get hot.

The four bolts holding the bearing in place...use some sort of anti-sieze lubricant on these...wait for a while...have a coffee or a soda which will allow the lube to soak into all of the parts. Use an extension to reach these. Once these four bolts are off, you can lightly tap the bearing housing from many sides so that it slides off the axle splines. Very easy! Make sure you support the axle.

Install in the reverse...be carefull when you slide the bearing onto the splines...this is not a step to rush! I do not remember the torque settings. The axle nut torque setting is very important.

I would suggest you purchase four new bolts, and definately a new axle nut.

BVNitta · #3 09-27-2007, 07:10 AM

Thanks man. I'm kinda stuck on step 1. The rotor is now not being held to the hub (I had drilled the screw out - got the conical head off and went almost all the way to the end of the hub with a 1/2 inch bit) and banged on the back of the rotor, but the rotor still doesn't want to come off the hub !

Partsman · #4 09-27-2007, 07:27 AM

Go to your local parts store and buy a can of PB Blaster...
http://www.blasterproducts.com/store...m?Product_ID=1

Spray it into the lug bolt holes so that it seeps in between the rotor and hub. The rotor should pop right off after a few minutes.

BTW, I would be interested in your old hub assembly for experimental purposes, thanks.

03BRG · #5 09-27-2007, 07:31 AM

Kroil and heat around the hub of the rotor. Take ice when nice and hot and quickly cool the hub of the rotor. You may also have to use a dead blow hammer to get it to come off. after all of this you may need to replace said rotor.

sonichris · #6 09-27-2007, 07:44 AM

don't heat! just hit the HUB SURFACE of the rotor with a BIG hammer. hit it HARD. that's it. it will pop off. don't hit the back, you will damage the face. don't heat it, you will warp it.

03BRG · #7 09-27-2007, 08:40 AM

As he pointed out he has already started beating the rotor off. The heat will only aid in getting it off with the rapid cool down. the damage has already been done with beating on the rotor.

BVNitta · #8 09-27-2007, 11:03 AM

Guys, thanks for the suggestions. I'l try them tonite. I was hitting the back working surface of the rotor with a dead blow hammer - don't think I damaged the rotor itself.. But having drilled out the torx screw and part of the rotor as well (1/2 inch bit takes out some serious surface) I'm thinking the rotor balance might be affected..

sonichris · #9 09-27-2007, 11:37 AM

don't use a dead blow hammer, use a big normal hammer. a dead blow will not give a strong enough impact, which is probably why you couldn't break the rotor loose. just give the hub surface a good whack or two and it will come off.

the reason i said not to use heat is that it will warp the rotor, and if anyone else is reading this trying to get a rotor off, they will warp the rotor doing that. i don't think the rotor will be out of balance given how close the removed material is to the center and how little material was removed compared to the mass of the rotor.

sonichris · #10 09-27-2007, 04:09 PM

ok, i just test fitted some R56 brakes on my R53. i had to whack the rotor 4 times to get it off, which was 3 more than i expected. so hit it hard!

BVNitta · #11 09-27-2007, 04:24 PM

Got it. Thanks !

rl.48.mini · #12 09-28-2007, 06:06 PM

I'm going to be doing a front bearing replacement this weekend. Does anyone have the torque setting for the axle nut? (my manual is on order and won't be here for a few days and from the sound of the bearing it can't wait) Thanks!

**cristo** · #13 09-29-2007, 06:20 AM

axle nut is 182 Nm, 134 ft-lb

bearing hub to steering knuckle is 56 Nm, 41 ft-lb

rl.48.mini · #14 09-29-2007, 06:43 AM

Thanks!

Lawnrat · #15 11-20-2009, 06:29 AM

I just wanted to make a quick post to all the information listed on this forum. I have saved myself big dollars doing these repairs myself. In the past two weeks I have replaced a front wheel bearing/hub and a windshield wiper motor. Both repairs were done from what people have posted on this site. Thanks again to all who post.

**howsoonisnow1985** · #16 11-22-2009, 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Partsman

Go to your local parts store and buy a can of PB Blaster...
http://www.blasterproducts.com/store...m?Product_ID=1
Spray it into the lug bolt holes so that it seeps in between the rotor and hub. The rotor should pop right off after a few minutes.
BTW, I would be interested in your old hub assembly for experimental purposes, thanks.

I kinda wanted to see if hub face is interchangable with R56 hub to do a real M14 to M12 conversion.

Chumperdink · #17 09-19-2010, 11:51 PM

Hey guys, I just replaced my front right hub bearing, Was I wrong to assume that it has lubrication already in it. The unit did not come with any grease, and I could not see any trace of grease on the spline coming from the axle. I drove it about 20 miles and all seems well but the suspense is killing me. Can anyone of you confirm if the hub bearing assembly is self lubricating. Thanks

sonichris · #18 09-19-2010, 11:57 PM

the bearings are sealed (and have grease in them) and do not need any grease added.

Chumperdink · #19 09-27-2010, 08:35 AM

Thanks for the reply. I should have been more detailed. I understand that the bearings are sealed, my true worry is where the axle splines go into the hub assembly. I did not see any lubrication there, but it is metal on metal. I was wondering if there is a thin layer of lubrication on the area where the front axle splines fit into the hub. Thank you for your time

sonichris · #20 09-27-2010, 08:49 AM

those go in there dry. if you want you can put some anti-seize on the splines to make removing the axles easier in the future.

Bwearl · #21 01-04-2012, 06:54 PM

Does anyone recommend an aftermarket or oem front hub assembly? The price of the aftermarket is about half the oem. Is the oem really better?

My mechanic wants the oem. I have a bad hum in the right front wheel.

Also should I replace both fronts at the same time?

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200..._assembly.html

Link where I found aftermarket.

Thank you for any feedback. I am new at posting on this site.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

bigdaddyslip · #22 01-25-2012, 10:08 PM

I came onto this site just for this reason. I Just replaced the front hub assembly on my wife's 2006 S after installing the bearing3 and torquing everything to specs I took it for a test drive it shook in second gear at 2600-3000 RPM. The shake felt like a shake from a beginner learning stick. Very jerky and did not go away from acceleration. I got it into third and managed to drive it a bit and it shook a few more times in second and again in third in the same RPM range. I pulled over checked what i could and it all appeared fine. As i took off from a stop and shifted into second the traction control light came on and i had now power at the pedal. pulled over down shifted and it went away. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to look for? CV Joint? Wheel speed Sensor? I am stumped. Thansk for any help.

essanvee · #23 01-27-2012, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddyslip

I came onto this site just for this reason. I Just replaced the front hub assembly on my wife's 2006 S after installing the bearing3 and torquing everything to specs I took it for a test drive it shook in second gear at 2600-3000 RPM. The shake felt like a shake from a beginner learning stick. Very jerky and did not go away from acceleration. I got it into third and managed to drive it a bit and it shook a few more times in second and again in third in the same RPM range. I pulled over checked what i could and it all appeared fine. As i took off from a stop and shifted into second the traction control light came on and i had now power at the pedal. pulled over down shifted and it went away. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to look for? CV Joint? Wheel speed Sensor? I am stumped. Thansk for any help.

Turn the steering all the way to the left and right and drive in circles in a parking lot... if you hear a clicking noise while doing this, you need a CV shaft on that side.

bigdaddyslip · #24 01-30-2012, 08:18 PM

essanvee,
Thanks for the idea. I just got back from the parking lot and no luck on either side or maybe it is luckier I didn't hear anything.

As of now I have replaced both front wheel bearings as well as both front ABS sensors with no resolve. The issue did not occur until after the install of the bearings.

essanvee · #25 01-31-2012, 06:42 AM

Did you follow torque recommendations on the main nut in the center of the rotor? You do not want this too tight.

I just did a driver side front wheel bearing a couple months ago, and can't remember exactly how the final assembly went.

But I know that in general, if you put too much torque on the retaining nut, you can over-compress the bearings and you will get a noise.

I know this is a sealed hub-one-in-all... but I still seem to remember you had to torque something in the center of the wheel at the end.

Take that center nut finger tight and then only another 20-50°. It should be snug but not over-tight.

Good to hear you don't have CV joint issues.