New MINI codes, what do they mean?
#1
New MINI codes, what do they mean?
Ryan was nice enough to help me out during his busy weekend while he was working on his Miata (thanks Ryan ) and found a total of (4) codes stored:
-P2187 "system too lean at idle"
-P0301 "cylinder #1 misfire" BTW, this is really starting to act up alot more now Its got a noticeable "stubble" when you get off the gas and now when you lightly accelerate its rearing its head!
Then he came up with these two, must be exclusive to MINI/BMW:
-B2AOO
-B2AAA
Since Saturday the car is running even worse and my appointment isn't till Wednesday. It seems the dealership has only (1) tech trained for the R56 and another is going in about 2 weeks. I hate to be the "guiney pig" but atleast some others will benefit from my ordeal, I just hate looking at my car across the street this afternoon and not really being able to drive it So if someone has experience with MINI/BMW codes let me/us know about this, I'd like to be as educate as possible when I go in there in a couple days, thanks!
-P2187 "system too lean at idle"
-P0301 "cylinder #1 misfire" BTW, this is really starting to act up alot more now Its got a noticeable "stubble" when you get off the gas and now when you lightly accelerate its rearing its head!
Then he came up with these two, must be exclusive to MINI/BMW:
-B2AOO
-B2AAA
Since Saturday the car is running even worse and my appointment isn't till Wednesday. It seems the dealership has only (1) tech trained for the R56 and another is going in about 2 weeks. I hate to be the "guiney pig" but atleast some others will benefit from my ordeal, I just hate looking at my car across the street this afternoon and not really being able to drive it So if someone has experience with MINI/BMW codes let me/us know about this, I'd like to be as educate as possible when I go in there in a couple days, thanks!
#3
I've come up with an "uneducated guess" about the codes, what you guys think about this. The computer shows the "regular" codes so that if a repair shop doesn't have more updated equipment they can get a reading and the other codes, the ones that start with "B" are B-M-W but are the very same thing, what do you think about that
#4
Im sorry to hear the car isnt improving. I did a quick search on Google and found this bit of information.
http://www.sciam.com/article.cfm?cha...26471&colID=11
Apparently the B codes are for Body, P for Power Train, C for Chassis and U for the vehicle's communications network. Im going to keep searching, surely there is a website somewhere that can give us an idea what those 2 other codes mean.
http://www.sciam.com/article.cfm?cha...26471&colID=11
Apparently the B codes are for Body, P for Power Train, C for Chassis and U for the vehicle's communications network. Im going to keep searching, surely there is a website somewhere that can give us an idea what those 2 other codes mean.
#5
Trinity - you are awesome.
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Thanks guys!
Lava, I actually filled up the car when I got back from G.R. and the flatness was "here and there", but even when it was "there", it wasn't really like it was before all this happened. I've also filled up again this past Saturday, again, "here and there", but now the problem of "stubbling" is rearing its head a bit more, especially between shifts and when you give it a little bit of gas and get off of it, even going normal speeds in the subs you can hear the "stubble".
Trinity, thanks for all the info you found out, its MUCH appreciated I read the link about the misfire and bad plug/wire/coil pack and IMO its gotta be one of those:impatient
I'm going to call the dealership tomorrow and see if they can get me in a day early, its worth a shot and if I can't, well, I'll have to drive the car VERY normal. I really don't like the idea of driving the car if its not firing right because its using more gas and just loading up, how are the other plugs doing when this happens I wonder. I guess I just don't want to hurt the car anymore than it needs to be
Trinity, thanks for all the info you found out, its MUCH appreciated I read the link about the misfire and bad plug/wire/coil pack and IMO its gotta be one of those:impatient
I'm going to call the dealership tomorrow and see if they can get me in a day early, its worth a shot and if I can't, well, I'll have to drive the car VERY normal. I really don't like the idea of driving the car if its not firing right because its using more gas and just loading up, how are the other plugs doing when this happens I wonder. I guess I just don't want to hurt the car anymore than it needs to be
#9
Here is the thread I mentioned before - sorry, I had to go back for the url:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=96609
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=96609
#10
Here is the thread I mentioned before - sorry, I had to go back for the url:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=96609
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=96609
#11
#12
Hopefully the dealership wont give you problems about the exhaust, its up to them to prove that whatever issue you are having is caused by the aftermarket part. I hope youve returned your intake back to stock Good luck at the dealership today, hopefully they will get you in early.
Thanks for the encouragement but I called them at 9:00 a.m. this morning to see if they had a cancellation and I haven't recieved a call back yet, so I'm assuming they didn't and/or she didn't check her voicemail I did put the stock airbox back on and yes, they have to prove its the aftermarket exhaust but honestly though, what can they say about a misfire? No I'm not nieve, but have faith in people, "blind faith" maybe but faith none the less. I will keep everyone updated and thanks again for your help
#13
*UPDATE*
Ok, I got my car there on time at 8:00 a.m. and on the way there the CEL flashed about (3) times and then stayed lit up. I told the SA about this and she said that's to show your misfire is current, yeah, no kidding After an hour or so she came out and told me they were going to take a coil off another car (cool ) to see if that fixes it. After sometime she told me that didn't fix it and she was putting me into a rental, so atleast I've got something to drive. My rental is an 07' MC w/automatic, CR/CR and bridge-spokes, not a bad combo. I told her I'd be washing the car when I got home and I did, but I actually took it a bit further and applied a coat of Klasse All in One to the car which it needed. I had to rub some of the bugs off of the car with it and I'm sure the car runs better now for it Anyways the SA said she didn't get a chance to speak to the tech about the codes and if I dont' hear from her before I have to go to work this afternoon I'm going to press her about the codes inparticular because all she told me was misfire, well the generic code reader told me that, I wanna know what the B2AOO/B2AAA mean. BTW, she said the tech looked at the exhaust and said since its a cat-back system its not a problem. I was honest and upfront about the exhaust system and she said she appreciates that, so I wanna keep the good will coming. Once I find out something either today or tomorrow I'll post it here for you guys to check out!
#14
My rental MINI
Fresh after hand washing, applying a coat of Klasse AIO, dressing the tires and cleaning the windows inside (yes, I'm a detailer and proud of it )
Just and FYI, when I was trying to remove some dried on bugs from the front of the MC, some of the red paint came off on my pad, ah the joys of non-clearcoated paint IMO the extra $450.00 for metallic is WELL worth it, just for this very reason. That being said though, I love Pepper White w/black
Just and FYI, when I was trying to remove some dried on bugs from the front of the MC, some of the red paint came off on my pad, ah the joys of non-clearcoated paint IMO the extra $450.00 for metallic is WELL worth it, just for this very reason. That being said though, I love Pepper White w/black
#15
I like the rental MINI! Im glad things are progressing well at the dealership, hopefully they will get it all figured out and have it fixed for you soon.
BTW - Youre very nice to wash the rental. I never once washed mine, it was a disaster. You say youre a detailer? When can I drop off my MINI?
BTW - Youre very nice to wash the rental. I never once washed mine, it was a disaster. You say youre a detailer? When can I drop off my MINI?
#16
I like the rental MINI! Im glad things are progressing well at the dealership, hopefully they will get it all figured out and have it fixed for you soon.
BTW - Youre very nice to wash the rental. I never once washed mine, it was a disaster. You say youre a detailer? When can I drop off my MINI?
BTW - Youre very nice to wash the rental. I never once washed mine, it was a disaster. You say youre a detailer? When can I drop off my MINI?
As far as you dropping your car off, are you going to be in the metro Detroit area anytime soon? I'd love to detail you car as you've been pretty helpful/encouraging so far
Please chime in on any or all of the above comments everyone, thanks!
#17
Hi KA -
Dont worry about the compression test itself. Thats no biggie. I havent said anything about the 1st 2 codes Ryan found for you because I didnt want to freak you out for potentially no reason. Now that the car is at the dealerships and they are going to be doing a compression test its beginning to confirm my thoughts. The codes individually are worrisome, together even more so. The 1st one "cylinder #1 misfire" could mean the rings or piston (or both) in that cylinder is shot. Then you have the 2nd code "system too lean at idle" which is more than likely a symptom of the 1st code. Have you noticed decreased gas mileage since this started? Im hoping that something is going on with the ECU and/or MAF that is causing those readings and it just needs to be reset. I guess only time will tell and I would really rather be wrong. Keep us updated, Ill be watching and keeping my fingers crossed for you
The next time Im up in Detroit Ill take you up on your offer
Dont worry about the compression test itself. Thats no biggie. I havent said anything about the 1st 2 codes Ryan found for you because I didnt want to freak you out for potentially no reason. Now that the car is at the dealerships and they are going to be doing a compression test its beginning to confirm my thoughts. The codes individually are worrisome, together even more so. The 1st one "cylinder #1 misfire" could mean the rings or piston (or both) in that cylinder is shot. Then you have the 2nd code "system too lean at idle" which is more than likely a symptom of the 1st code. Have you noticed decreased gas mileage since this started? Im hoping that something is going on with the ECU and/or MAF that is causing those readings and it just needs to be reset. I guess only time will tell and I would really rather be wrong. Keep us updated, Ill be watching and keeping my fingers crossed for you
The next time Im up in Detroit Ill take you up on your offer
#20
#22
Ryan was nice enough to help me out during his busy weekend while he was working on his Miata (thanks Ryan ) and found a total of (4) codes stored:
-P2187 "system too lean at idle"
-P0301 "cylinder #1 misfire" BTW, this is really starting to act up alot more now Its got a noticeable "stubble" when you get off the gas and now when you lightly accelerate its rearing its head!
Then he came up with these two, must be exclusive to MINI/BMW:
-B2AOO
-B2AAA
Since Saturday the car is running even worse ...
-P2187 "system too lean at idle"
-P0301 "cylinder #1 misfire" BTW, this is really starting to act up alot more now Its got a noticeable "stubble" when you get off the gas and now when you lightly accelerate its rearing its head!
Then he came up with these two, must be exclusive to MINI/BMW:
-B2AOO
-B2AAA
Since Saturday the car is running even worse ...
You're welcome, I'm glad I was able to help get those codes from the ECU. Having a scan-tool that reads CAN-bus helps lots with the new R56!
I've been a bit perplexed as to why your car is throwing both Cyl.#1 misfire and too lean at idle. Cyl.#1 misfire is usually because there's a problem with the ignition coil or spark plug. The fact that you're saying it only is apparent during a specific driving condition [transitioning from under load to engine braking] means something is messed up in the calibration, not likely the hardware. However, now that you're noticing it during light load means there could be a real hardware issue, like a flaky ignition coil perhaps. Too lean at idle is implying the ECU is out of calibration, or the injectors have been recently exchanged to a smaller flow-rate and the ECU hasn't interpolated yet. Being neither is likely the case, um, I dunno off the top of my head. Maybe the ECU suddenly has bad memory sectors, and also the wideband O2 sensor is crapping out? The two codes don't seem to match up for one issue, IMO.
Thanks Trinity for pointing out the B = Body code, I had forgotten about that! I'd be curious to know what the two B-codes are that are showing up in Klasse's car.
I hope the dealer finds something [crosses fingers and knocks on wood, MCM isn't the brightest out there]
#23
I'm glad you've chimed in here too Ryan because between you and Trinity you've provided alot of info. Right now I'm not doing too well to be honest with you W/O getting into too much my path to this car has been a long, winding road (pardon the pun) and this is probably supposed to happen to me. Ok, enough of that, IF the motor is bad, how long will it take for them to get one and will they let me keep the rental in the meantime
BTW Ryan they did swap out coils and plugs already.
BTW Ryan they did swap out coils and plugs already.
#24
Dont worry, I felt the same way you did when my car went in to get its new transmission. They will get it taken care of for you, it sounds like they are being very responsive. Dont assume my theory is correct, its based off of cars that were much older and in no way as technologically advanced as our MINI's are. There is a lot to be said for that. I imagine no matter how long they keep your car you will be able to keep the rental.