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As soon as I get a second set of wheels/tires, that's on my list of other things to get. I'll still use my torque wrench for the final tightening though.
__________________ 2006 MCS-JCW No. 15543, BRG/W, Sport Pack, Chrono Pack, M7 SRP I love deadlines. I love the "whooshing" sound they make when they go by. - Doug Adams ambientpixel@mac.com
I'll still use my torque wrench for the final tightening though.
Yeah, thats huge.
I'll share my little idiotic experience, not because I am proud, but only because maybe it will save someone a real bad wreck.......
The ONLY time I have ever NOT used a torque wrench was a couple years ago in Oklahoma at a Divisional. After puting the street wheels/tires on, without a torque wrench, we hurried out of their very early after our runs and sped back to KC for the 300 mile journey back to catch the last heat of runs at Arrowhead. On the way home, driving a real good bit above the posted speed limit, trying to make it back in time, we noticed something making noise when we would go on/off throttle. Didn't think much about it and were kind of puzzled as to what the heck the noise was. So, we arrived at Arrowhead where the KC region let us make our 8 runs as we pulled in on our street tires, then we were assigned cleanup, finshed that and got back on the road for another 15 miles home. On the way home, the noise(sort of loud click) on/off throttle got significantly worse. We pulled in the driveway and parked it for the night. The next morning, I went to take the car for a spin, the noise now was severe, I went probably 200 yards and decided to head back home, I got about 15 feet and my freakin wheel fell off the car!
Anyway, moral of the story is, don't be a dumbazz like I was, use a torque wrench. Thats probably the absolute luckiest I have ever been in my life. My guardian angel must have been real dizzy from holding my wheels on after I pulled back in my driveway after the 300 mile trek. Definitely a miracle since when the clicking started, I drove another 100 miles and ran 8 autocross runs. I cannot believe I didn't know what the clicking was, it would be obvious to me now, I guess I have come a long way over the last few years.
Don't try to autocross without one. Wheel/tire changes can be done in 1/4 of the time or less with an impact gun.
I have a DeWalt Impact driver wrench.
They come in different diameter drivers and with different battery sizes.
I got 12V and 1/2" driver to match my socket wrenches.
Lots of different battery sizes from small to very large (heavy and expensive)
Drivers can be 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" but I didn't want to fuss with adapters all the time.
Works great and I charge it about every 3rd event. I use it and let all the other MINI drivers in my area use it. Not to heavy and keeps a good charge.
I spent my first two seasons changing wheels by hand then got the cordless wrench for myself for christmas. I've not looked back since.
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I use a 48" braker for all the lugs then lift the car one side first, use the drill to take off the lugs. I put the new tire on, then hand start the lugsnuts, then drill tighten knowing it can never but more then like 10ft.lbs on. I use a torque wrench on both wheels then trop the car do the other side.
I do like the idea of use a cordless impact, but since i have to hand start evey lug anyway the only real advantage is not using the braker at the begining. But that only saves me like 20seconds a side.
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I use a 48" braker for all the lugs then lift the car one side first, use the drill to take off the lugs. I put the new tire on, then hand start the lugsnuts, then drill tighten knowing it can never but more then like 10ft.lbs on. I use a torque wrench on both wheels then trop the car do the other side.
I do like the idea of use a cordless impact, but since i have to hand start evey lug anyway the only real advantage is not using the braker at the begining. But that only saves me like 20seconds a side.
I do the same. I keep looking at the cordless impacts though. I think it's a peer pressure/he who dies with the most toys thing. I picked up a 18v cordless drill from Harbour Freight for $18. If it's mislayed at the track or broken I'm not out much.
I had heard the Goodyear were an excellent choice but only available in-store, which, I don't have one within 150 or so miles I think.
I ended up selling both Dewalts and buying a Snap-on CT4850(I think thats the model). I figured since I do a couple hundred tire swaps a year, I can sorta justify the extra expense. If the wifey new though, something bad might happen. lol Anyway, my pocket is a bit lighter now, so, I should be quicker, right? :-)
I still have my old HF 1/2" drive unit from 2001. Never had any problems and the batteries are still in great shape. When it dies I'm eyeballing the new IR W360 with 350 ft-lbs. How much torque does the Snap-ON model have?
OK, so after some searching and disucussion with IR, the new W360 is the 360 ft-lbs improved version after they discontinued the 2530. There's a $90 rebate on the charger and if you buy the kit you get the rebate. There's a great price on the W360 starter pack with lithium ion battery at Arizona Tools and then the rebate comes from IR.
Just a couple hundred dollars cheaper than the Snap-ON from what I could find.
I still have my old HF 1/2" drive unit from 2001. Never had any problems and the batteries are still in great shape. When it dies I'm eyeballing the new IR W360 with 350 ft-lbs. How much torque does the Snap-ON model have?
Jim
Max breakaway on the Snap-on CT4850 is rated at 550 lbs with an output of 350 lbs. Not sure what that means with the 200lb difference, but, I have only charged the batteries once when new and I'm still on my 1st battery after the first 8 wheel swaps and the gun effortlessly breaks the lugs still. I paid $350 for it on Ebay with a case, charger and 2 batteries, a bit more than most, but, considering how many swaps I make, its worth it to me, but, would be hard to justify for many I'm sure.
On the breakaway vs output torque values, I assume that means torque off 550lbs torque on 350lbs
The IR has a 1000 cycle lithium ion battery and does not list any breakaway torque specs. I looked up the Snap-On and the battery description lists it at 600 cycles but no lithium or Ni-Cd designation. I suspect that it's a Ni-Cd. With my rebate I'll be getting the IR W360 starter pack for about $290. The IR lithium battery alone is $113. It's lighter and has more operating capacity than the Ni-Cd plus more life cycles.
I'm also drooling over the new 14.4V cordless 3/8" and 1/2" drive IQv ratchets. I'll have to add those to the tool box soon.
I'm sure the Snap-On is better just because it's a Snap-On but I've also had many years of reliable experience using Ingersoll-Rand products and I like their service and warranty departments. They are great for their customer care.
The IR has a 1000 cycle lithium ion battery and does not list any breakaway torque specs. I looked up the Snap-On and the battery description lists it at 600 cycles but no lithium or Ni-Cd designation. I suspect that it's a Ni-Cd. With my rebate I'll be getting the IR W360 starter pack for about $290. The IR lithium battery alone is $113. It's lighter and has more operating capacity than the Ni-Cd plus more life cycles.
I'm also drooling over the new 14.4V cordless 3/8" and 1/2" drive IQv ratchets. I'll have to add those to the tool box soon.
I'm sure the Snap-On is better just because it's a Snap-On but I've also had many years of reliable experience using Ingersoll-Rand products and I like their service and warranty departments. They are great for their customer care.
Jim
Jim
The IR certainly sounds like the way to go. I hadn't heard of that gun until your post, otherwise, I would have considered them. Anyway, we'll have to compare guns at Nationals. I assume you'll be there?
My HF is starting to walk towards the light. It's been used pretty heavily for 4 years and now the battery doesn't last that long...still has good enough torque.
Yes I will be attending Topeka Nats for Tues/Weds and it would be cool to compare the Snap-On and IR models. I also heard about the Milwaukee brand that has a 28 volt and 330 ft-lbs impact. It's a little more pricey and so is the DeWalt. I haven't had a lot of good experience with DeWalt branded tools. Most seemed flimsy and the batteries aren't the best made.
I have one battery for my HF impact that is feeling like it's losing life since it seems to run down a little faster than the spare but these batteries have run a lot longer with more cycles and working capacity than any of my DeWalt's.
Looking forward to trying out the new IR once it gets here in a week. More reviews later...
It's a bit more pricey than when I bought mine some time ago. Maybe it's the same since the charger, batteries, case and impact body look virtually identical and has the same 19.2 V rating?
Also looked around last night and found the 36V DeWalt that has the massive Li-Ion battery but also the weight. It does have 2000 duty cycles though and probably more than enough amp-hours of power for those days when you have to swap tires on and off about 10 times and swap shocks and springs and swaybars during an intensive test/tune session.