I’ve responded to many threads here and I decided to try and put my regular wash/seal/detail procedures into one long plan. After several weeks of pecking away at it during remnants of lunch-hours, I sent it to BradB, a regular in the NAM auto detailing boards, for review. Brad was very helpful and has added his comments to several sections. I could not have done this without him. I thank him and my cars thank him for their better care (my wallet, being substantially thinner, isn't so fond of him :smile: ). As a whole, he is much more detail oriented than I am and uses better processes and tools. I’ve made a few trade-offs for speed and cost, sacrificing quality. If I had my dream car, I’d probably abandon several of my methods and buy better equipment.

I’ve broken it up into a schedule (semi-annual work, monthly work, weekly work and a mid-week touch up), specific directions for each step in the process and a list of equipment / supplies. I don’t keep a calendar with the work marked, but I just wanted to give you an idea of how frequently I do each step. Each week, as I wash my cars, I assess their condition and decide what needs to be done and how much time I have. It’s all a balancing act.

agranger

Disclaimer:

I know that I have automotive Obsessive / Compulsive Disease (AOCD?). I enjoy being outdoors and love the satisfaction of driving a perfectly detailed car. I’ve got a 7 year-old daily driver sedan (’97 Nissan Altima) that I treat this way… It’s just me. (PS: Wow... this thread has been rolling for a while... I'm now 12,000 miles in on my '06 MCS. When I took the Altima in to be apraised for a trade, they guessed that it was only 2-3 years old...20-30k miles - on a 9 year old car w/ 80k miles!)

Feel free to modify my plans for your level of need, want or desire. I bought a great deal of the stuff during one month to get a basic stable of products together (washing supplies, sealant, etc.). The others I bought as I needed /wanted them (compounds, polisher, etc.). BradB convinces me, every few weeks, that I need yet another product…

I have no automotive training… I just like to have a clean and shiny car. I’ve accumulated these processed through years of trial and error on my own vehicles. I’ve done my best to reproduce the steps that I follow, but read the directions for any automotive product that you intend to use and follow them.

My Bias: I like Zaino. It’s got a HUGE shine and the application is easy (once you do it once or twice). I’ve never tried Klasse. My instructions are for Zaino with the ZFX system, though I believe that Zaino has a new polymer accelerant system, so you will have to adapt to that using their instructions. I am just telling you how I do things and what I use. I like the results that I get and have had several unsolicited comments on how nice the effect is.

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My semi-annual program (maybe annual if the car is garaged at work and at home)

1. Engine Detailing (see engine detailing procedures below)
2. Wash car with a quality automotive shampoo (I use the Zaino Z7 shampoo, but almost any name brand auto shampoo that you can buy in bulk at Wal-mart should be fine)
3. Clay-bar the entire car (see claying process below). (Note from BradB: I “spot” clay the car several times a year as needed. It’s a continual process for me. I hate grit! I inspect at each wash and take care of issues as they happen. I prefer Zaino, Mothers and ClayMagic Clay. The Only one I really dislike is Meguiars. It leaves too much sticky residue.)
4. Wash with auto shampoo (see wash process below)
5. Polish paint (see polishing process below)
6. Polish glass (see glass polishing process below
7. Wash with auto shampoo
8. Seal with Zaino (see Zaino process below)
9. Quick Detail (see quick detail procedures below)
10. Treat wiper blades with 303 Wiper Blade Treatment.
11. Care for Rubber Seals (see seal protection procedures below)
12. Wax the wheels inside and out.

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My Monthly routine

1. Glass – I use a glass microfiber towel and Stoner’s Invisible Glass Spray on the interior glass. Because I Zaino the exterior glass, I just use a polishing microfiber towel and Zaino Z6 quick detailing spray on the outside. This yields a highly reflective shine that doesn’t degrade the performance of wiper blades like Rain-X. Note from BradB: I clay my windshield bi-monthly. I clean exterior glass with glass cleaner after every car wash. (I am never satisfied with the ever-present streaks that any chamois or even microfiber drying towel leaves on the windshield after washing) My favorite glass cleaner is Einszett. Stoners Invisible Glass and Eagle 20/20 are standby’s. The new Sonus cleaner is quite good as well. I polish the windshield glass monthly with Einszett (superfine) or Autoglym (slightly more abrasive) polish. Both work fast and have almost no residue.
2. Leather care – I use the Zaino leather cleaner, which seems to work just fine. I love the smell of the Zaino leather conditioner, which you apply after the cleaner has dried. BradB also recommends Mothers Leather Dressing.
3. Quick touch-up of the engine compartment – I wipe down the engine compartment with an old washcloth dampened with 303 Aerospace cleaner. I might use a bit of 303 Aerospace Protectant on the rubber or plastic.

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My weekend routine

1. Wash
2. Quick Detail (BradB: I do this as needed sometimes daily. I hate dust!)
3. Tires and exterior rubber: I generally use the Zaino plastic and rubber treatment for the exterior plastic bits. BradB also uses Zaino, but also likes Eagle One Concours Satin Shine. He dislikes messy sprays and absolutely hates gels.
4. Interior – Vacuum floor and dust/treat dash. I frequently use the Zaino treatment inside, but also like 303 Aerospace Protectant.

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Mid week touch-up (on weekend as well if the roads have been clean/dry)

1. Dust exterior – If it hasn’t rained, I use the Oxo Car duster. BradB says that he has a California Car Duster but only uses it occasionally… he tends to wash first.
2. Dust interior – I run a Swiffer duster over the dash to knock down the dust a bit. BradB has one of those tiny California Interior Car Dusters, but I might have converted him to Swiffers.
3. Quick Detail

 

Process for Engine Detailing

1. Warm the engine. You don’t want one that is hot. Start with a cool engine and run it for maybe 5 minutes.
2. Some people cover the electronics. I don’t bother because I go slowly and use low-pressure streams of water. Do what makes you comfortable.
3. Spray everything with 303 Aerospace cleaner. You can dilute it 1/10 for this purpose in a separate spray bottle if you wish. Use it full-strength for nasty, greasy spots.
4. Let sit for a few minutes. You can use this time to work the greasy areas with a stiff bristle brush. I bought a rounded nylon detailing brush at an auto supply shop that works well. I think it was next to the engine degreasing supplies, so I’m probably using it for what it was intended.
5. Rinse with a mist of water. I use one of those multi-head hose attachments that just barely mists out the water. You want low pressure so you don’t force water into the electronics.
6. Reapply cleaner as necessary
7. Dry with an old rag or allow to dry while you wash the rest of the car.
8. Apply dressing to rubber hoses, caps, wires, etc. Do not use dressings on belts, etc.
9. If you want to go crazy, use a bit of cleaner wax on the painted surfaces to shine up your engine compartment a bit. You have already gone this far, so why not? I use cleaner wax for the additional solvents and abrasives. If I had a spanking-new car that was worth the effort, I might break out the Zaino. My wife’s leased SUV does not get this treatment… A new Ferrari, on the other hand, would probably get it. Let the wax dry to a haze and buff off with a clean towel or buffing microfiber.

BradB is more detailed when working on the engine compartment. Here are his notes:

There is a myriad of different materials in the engine compartment and I use a lot of different things for it. I never use the hose down method. I am never happy with the results and it doesn’t seem to last long. I take a methodical procedure doing one component at a time, doing it very well, then moving on. It seems to last a long time and look better that way. It then wipes off easy when it gets dirty from rain splashes, etc. I don’t use 303 because of its low durability water based nature it is very heat sensitive and wears off quickly. I think it’s one of the best interior products, though. For oil/grease soiled areas I use medical swabs soaked in aerosol brake cleaning spray. It literally soaks up the dirt into the swab. Small areas like wires and switches and harnesses are usually sprayed with Griots Engine Gloss or CD2 Engine Detailer. This makes it look very clean and hides dirt. Larger hard to reach areas are sprayed with Stoners Trim Shine. Metal items are rubbed with NeverDull. Items that get subjected to heat or get dried out I use Forever Black on. Hoses get Meguiars #40 Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner.


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Process for Washing the Car

1. Add an ounce or two of auto shampoo (or Dawn Dishwashing liquid if you are using it to strip off old carnauba – don’t use Dawn just to be cheap – it will dry out your rubber and plastic) to a 5 gallon bucket of cool or luke-warm water. Use a 100% cotton chenille or wool wash mitt with no nylon thread in the seams.
2. Rinse the car and loosely sponge some wash water over the nastier areas before you begin to wash. To reduce the chance of creating swirl marks, BradB sprays the gritty areas of the car with a diluted auto shampoo and water mix, letting it soak for a minute or two before spraying off with a bit of force. Wash from the top down, washing one body panel at a time and rinsing it thoroughly before moving on. You want to think of floating the dirt off of your car with the soapy water… not trying to grind the dirt off with the mitt.
3. Rinse the mitt frequently in the soapy water. Every few panels, put your hose inside the mitt and rinse out, letting the discard water drip onto the ground. Note from BradB: I rinse the mitt after virtually every pass or two on the car. I NEVER stick the mitt back in the soap bucket without rinsing. And I never go more than three passes without re-soaping. Lubrication is the key to avoiding swirls.
4. If your wash water starts to look dirty, replace it with fresh! A great suggestion from BradB: I use two mitts every time I wash a car. One mitt is used for the area above the beltline. A second mitt is used for below the beltline. The reason I keep them separate is the “good” mitt is segregated to the clean part of the car and never gets a chance to get grit in it that comes from the lower panels. I don’t want to accidentally scratch an upper panel so I am doubly careful up top.
5. Wash your tires and wheels last. I use a feathered nylon brush to scrub the tires and use a wash mitt (one reserved for the wheels – not to touch the paint ever again) to wash the wheels themselves. BradB recommends a foam bottle brush from the grocery store to get behind the spokes and clean the inside of the wheel. This prevents the brake dust accumulated back there from dripping down the clean front of your wheel the next time they get wet. He also uses a small sponge to clean in and around all of the small nooks and crannies in his wheels. Some people apply a wheel cleaner at the beginning of the wash, just to make the brake dust easier to remove. I don’t drive that aggressively and haven’t needed to do this. BradB doesn’t recommend the use of brushes on your wheels as, if their bristles don’t scratch the finish, the wire core of the brush just might.
6. Dry your car. I use a California Water Blade to remove most of the water (may cause scratching if you get a bit of sand or grit on the blade). I then finish drying with a large white, 100% cotton towel. BradB’s process: First, get most of the water beads off your car by “sheeting” the water off with the hose. Let a slow stream of water pour out of the hose and stream easily off each panel. This will sheet the water minimizing the beads of water that remain on the surface. This gives you much less water to dry off to start with. I use an Absorber synthetic chamois to get the bulk of the water off the car. Never pull the Absorber over the car. Simply lay it on the surface and pull it back off quickly. It takes just a second, literally. I quickly walk around the car doing this. I spend perhaps one to two minutes doing this. It is very fast. I follow this up with a bath towel sized Microfiber Waffleweave Drying Towel. I fold this towel in half and drag it front to back. I rarely have to wipe twice. I have a smaller Waffleweave for use in the door jams, trunk edges, etc. I use an air compressor to blow out extra water from creases, the grill, the wheels and brakes.

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Process for Claying the Car

1. Wash with auto shampoo. Don’t bother drying.
2. Get out your clay. I use the Zaino clay-bar because I like the feel, but I have only used one other brand – Mothers. It wasn’t bad, but I liked the Zaino better.
3. If you drop your clay on the ground, throw it away. Contamination sticks to the clay and will scratch your paint.
4. BradB’s directions were much better than mine, so here they are: I recommend that you cut your claybar into several pieces and knead into silver dollar size wafers about 3/16” thick. Use one side until visibly dirty. Flip over and use second side. Then throw away. Do not be tempted to use a large piece of clay and knead the dirty debris into the clay. This contamination will eventually come back to the surface and cause a scratch. You will get better results and avoid scratching from the clay itself if you use an auto shampoo as a lubricant. This is important. You get best results when you rub in back and forth motions only. (In fact, everything….washing mitt, drying towel, claying strokes, should be front-aft motions on car. This consistency will help optics regarding micro-marring and scratches/swirls) (Note from agranger: I keep my ‘spent’ clay in a sealed container… It’s great for polishing glass.
5. When you finish one body panel, wash and rinse it well. Clay everything with a smooth finish: chrome, paint and glass

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Process for Polishing the Glass

1. Wash the windshield to get the big stuff off. Leave the surface wet.
2. Apply a bit of the Rain-X Glass Polish (BradB recommends Einszett (superfine) or Autoglym [slightly more abrasive] polishes) and work until almost dry with the orange Sonus foam pad on the Porter Cable DA Polisher. Do not let dry out.
3. Rinse well
4. Wash with auto detergent before it can dry.
5. Rinse well.
6. Wash again (this stuff doesn’t like to come off)
7. Rinse well and dry.

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Process for Polishing the Paintwork

A write-up on compounding and polishing could easily fill another document of this size. If the car is new or in good condition, I polish with the Porter Cable DA polisher and Sonus paintwork cleanser after every full claybar treatment. This section is to give you an idea of what is involved. Do your research and work slowly and carefully.

Compounding will help restore a neglected finish to a state where Zaino can take over, enhance your shine and protect your finish. This is a fairly drastic change and requires time, attention and commitment. The more abrasive the compound, the more dangerous it is, so work carefully and examine your work very frequently. I once removed some single stage paint in about 3 seconds of compounding with the DA polisher (medium cut compound and orange pad). I had no idea that there wasn’t clear coat on that B pillar and I didn’t know what was going on until the pad had turned black from paint transfer. BE CAREFUL.

Once or twice a year I do step 3 on my well maintained cars… you shouldn’t need to compound every year.

1. If your paint is badly neglected, start with a medium-cut compound and the orange Sonus pad on the Porter Cable DA polisher. Follow the directions on the bottle, but you basically apply the compound to the pad and polish a small area of the car until almost dry. Buff off residue with a buffing microfiber and move on.
2. After this, you will need to use a fine-cut compound to remove the scratches left by the more abrasive compound. Use the Green Sonus pad on the DA polisher.
3. You may need to use a swirl mark remover step (see process for scratch removal below), but I was able to go directly to step 4. If you need the swirl mark remover, use the Green Sonus pad on the DA polisher.
4. Now the finishing step: Sonus Paintwork cleanser using the blue Sonus foam pad on the DA polisher. This brings out the brilliance in your finish… Zaino has a STUNNING effect on a finish after a good polishing.

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Process for Quick Detailing

Your detailing spray should depend on your finish. I use Z6 on my Zaino treated cars and I love it. If you have topcoated the Zaino with carnuba, use a carnuba quick detailer like Sonus Carnuba Spritz. Sonus also makes a quick detailing spray for Klasse. Using a Quick Detailing spray that doesn’t match your topcoat protectant may result in streaking and a cloudy finish. If you see either of these, re-examine your choice of QD spray.

Just one spritz per body panel and use a buffing microfiber to remove. If there is a bit of dirt and/or grime on the car, use a bit more Z6.

Since I put Zaino Z2 sealant on my windows, I use Z6 and a microfiber to buff the glass clean! This yields a deep shine and makes your wipers work better than ever before.


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Process of Caring for Your Soft Rubber Seals

I use a product that BMW recommends, GummiPflege Rubber Protection Stick. Available at BMW auto and motorcycle dealers.

1. If dirty, clean rubber seals around doors, hood, trunk, etc. with a damp microfiber
2. Apply GummiPflege to seal using the foam applicator tip on the bottle
3. Let dry
4. Shake a bit of baby powder (unscented, please) on a microfiber and wipe over the seal to stop it from sticking to the painted surfaces. (BradB: This, by the way, is a factory approved method used by Porsche service techs.)

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Process of Scratch Removal (shallow – not through the clear or color coat)

The key to safe scratch removal is working with the least abrasive compound that is necessary to solve the problem. Whatever product you use, you want to work it on the surface for a brief bit, buff off the product, examine and repeat as necessary. If 3 or 4 rounds of this doesn’t solve the problem, it is time to move to a more aggressive product. Once you get the problem solved (or minimized to your satisfaction), you move backwards through the progression of products you just used… using less and less abrasive products to buff out the scratches caused by the last one.

Again, a full write-up of scratch removal could very easily morph into a huge document. Do your research and work slowly and carefully.

Here are my products (in Abrasive order):

Least Abrasive

• Paintwork Cleanser (Sonus makes a good one)
• 3M Swirl mark Remover
• 3M Finesse It II
• Scratch-X (Meguiars)
• Fine-Cut Rubbing Compound
• Medium Rubbing Compound
• Rubbing Compound (I leave this one to the professionals and won’t let myself buy any because I’d probably do some damage

Most Abrasive

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Zaino Process

This is an abridged version of the instructions found on the Zaino website (http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...de=APPLICATION)

1. Everything begins with a wash using Dawn dishwashing detergent to remove surface waxes and oils. The Alkaline base in Dawn helps strip these organics away.
2. Surface prep is everything. Before laying down your base layers of Zaino, I definately recommend clay-barring your car and polishing with paintwork cleanser and the Porter Cable DA polisher (or by hand, if you have the time/energy)
3. For each ounce of polish (Z5, Z2 or Z2-Pro) you use, you need to add 5 or 6 drops of Zaino ZFX and shake well. Let it sit for 5 minutes and shake well again before use. One ounce of polish easily covers my wife's SUV. You may mix more than one batch at a time, but throw away any unused ZFX/polish mixture after 2 hours.
4. Spray 1-2 spritzes of Zaino Z6 detailing spray to your foam or 100% cotton applicator and apply the polish in long, even strokes. The thinner you apply the polish, the better. On the vertical surfaces, use up-down motions. On the horizontal surfaces, go front to back.
5. Zaino can be applied to the paintwork, hard/smooth plastic and glass. I don't recommend applying it to textured plastic (like the arches on a MINI) because it will gather in the nooks and crannies, but it will not cause the awful white streaks on these parts like wax.
6. I start with 2 layers of Zaino Z-5 polish. This has some swirl mark fillers to help reduce the apperance of swirl marks in your finish. If the car is pristine (no swirl marks) I might skip directly to Z-2 polish or only apply 1 layer of Z-5. If 2 layers of Z-5 don't take care of your swirl mark problem, you have bigger issues than Zaino can take care of.
7. After you apply a coat of Zaino polish, you need to let it dry until you can wipe the haze away with just an easy pass of your fingers. With Z2 or Z5, this can be 15 minutes on a warm/dry day to a couple of hours on a cooler more humid day. The new Z2-Pro is supposed to dry even more quickly. Buff off with a polishing microfiber or a 100% cotton towel. I frequently will apply a coat of Zaino and park the car in the garage over night. Before going to work the next morning, I'll buff it off (10-15 min) and do a pass with Z6 quick detailing spray. Between coats, it is important to use the Z6 quick detailing spray to enhance the final shine and remove residual polish from the last step.
8. I start with 2 layers of Zaino Z-5 polish. This has some swirl mark fillers to help reduce the apperance of swirl marks in your finish. If the car is pristine (no swirl marks) I might skip directly to Z-2 polish or only apply 1 layer of Z-5. If 2 layers of Z-5 don't take care of your swirl mark problem, you have bigger issues than Zaino can take care of.
9. After the Z-5, I apply at least 2 coats of Z-2. Z-2 is the highly reflective finishing polish that gives you the Zaino shine. Because Zaino is a polymer sealant, it can be layered. I've got 2 coats of Z5 and 5 coats of Z2 on my wife's SUV right now and it is stunning. I've heard of cars with 20-50 coats, but that's a bit extreme... even for me.
10. Finish off with a pass of Z6 quick detailer and a microfiber polishing cloth to make the shine pop!

Note: You should apply no more than 3 coats of any Zaino polish in a 24 hour period. The polish needs time to 'cure', even after it has dried and the excess buffed off.

 

• The Porter Cable 7424 Dual-Action Polisher with Sonus foam polishing pads: (http://www.autopia-carcare.com/son-daspol-kit.html) $200 – It isn’t absolutely necessary for a new car, but it will help you bring out that last little bit of shine and will save you countless hours of hand-polishing if you are trying to restore a neglected finish or bring your older car back to showroom condition. The Sonus pads can be purchased separately here.
• http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?autopia+GjQk9r+pcdepot.html. Another great place to get the buffer is Coastal Tools http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/S...e84+1107924798
• Drying / Buffing Towels: I bought four white towels from Target, on sale for $15. They were the best ones they had – 100% cotton, but I know that there is some nylon thread in the bindings. Most people recommend cutting off the bindings, but I’ve got a dinky little dryer that clogs up with thread when I do that. I’m just careful to fold the towel in such a way that the edges are not exposed. BradB recommends all microfiber. For the Price I paid for these towels, I probably could have purchased a good set of microfiber waffleweave (another BradB recommendation) towels from an on-line distributer. I’ll probably make the switch when these wear out. He also suggests getting several smaller waffleweave towels for cleaning sills and trunk ledges. http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...9r+mf-200.html
• Microfiber Polishing Towels: I picked up 10-15 of these from Target. Maybe $2 a piece or so. (BradB left this note: “Be REALLY careful of these. They are LOW quality towels.”) Always wash microfiber by itself (no other cloth) using a light amount of liquid detergent. Tumble dry. Again, I’ll probably buy something better when these wear out… they were a good starting point for me. Brad Recommends the Sonus Ultimate Drying Towel: http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?autopia+GjQk9r+blpepotopk.html
• Microfiber Glass Towels: I bought 2 of these from an auto supply store. $3 each.
• CottonWash Cloths: When I was buying my towels, I spotted a 10 pack of very, very cheap white washcloths on sale for $1.50. I bought them to use while cleaning out the engine bay or other particularly nasty chores. If they are even remotely soiled, I just pitch them when I’m done. No point in screwing up my washing machine over 15 cents. These may scratch paintwork so I’d never use one to buff off the finish, but they are fine enough for general cleaning use.
• Wash Mitt: I currently use a 100% cotton wash mitt (chenille). I’ll probably switch to a good wool version the next time I order from an on-line supplier that sell them. A good wool mitt should run $9-$10. http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?autopia+GjQk9r+vk-103.html
• Eagle One Tire Swipes for applying dressing to tires and various trim. These can be found for $1 a piece at automotive supply stores... http://www.eagleone.com/_products/1,5015602.asp
• Oxo Car Duster: I love Oxo products. This duster has a rubber coated handle (no scratching) with an ergonomic grip. Works beautifully. Read the directions before use. It is similar to the California Auto Duster (http://store.yahoo.com/classic-motoring/cadukit.html) but has a rubber coated handle and the paraffin wax in the yarn is a bit lighter.
• California Water Blade: I know… I know… There is a risk of scratching your finish if your car isn’t perfectly clean. I use this on my wife’s SUV where drying the beast would take lots of towels. If I had a classic Ferrari worth over $100,000, I’d probably buy a few more towels or maybe lick it clean. For now, I am just very careful to wash and rinse the car well before using it. http://store.yahoo.com/classic-motoring/cadrybl.html
• Wax Applicators: I’ve been using cotton terry covered applicators for several years. These come in handy when buffing out a small scratch or paint imperfection. At about 50 cents a piece, they are almost disposable. It looks like, though I will be switching soon for this as well… From BradB: I would discourage using terry covered applicators for doing any kind of polish or compound work. The weave of the terry is very uneven causing the product being used to be suspended in a non-uniform fashion. This can cause problems with compounding and can cause marring and scratching. The terry weave itself can even “ball” up and cause scratches. I would only use these for application of wax where no pressure is needed against the paint and application evenness is not important. Personally, I don’t bother with these at all and use pure foam applicators exclusively.
• Bucket: I just use a large plastic 5 gallon bucket. They make inserts (Gritguard) so that you can’t use the bottom few inches (where the grit falls while washing). I’ve also seen dual-sided buckets for a dirty/clean side approach.
• Spray Bottle: I bought a spray bottle that I fill with a 1/10 dilution of auto shampoo and water. This works as clay-bar lubrication for spot jobs.
• Tire Brush: I bought a soft-bristled brush (frayed edge nylon) to use on the rubber of the tires. I also use it to scrub the inside of the wheel wells (black plastic liner and black undercoating). http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?autopia+GjQk9r+vk-103.html

 

General Supplies:

• Zaino: I would recommend the Zaino Ultimate Protection Kit for your first purchase. This has all of the Zaino products I rave about above. $130 at http://www.zainostore.com.
  • Z2: The high-reflectivity sealant from Zaino – your bread and butter
  • Z5: This is a sealant for swirl marks… it must have a bit of filler in there. My first coat or two are generally with Z5. If your swirl-marks don’t disappear after 2 coats, they aren’t going to go and you will need to go back to compounding/polishing to get them out. Don’t expect miracles in swirl mark repair from this. I figure it can’t hurt to use for the first few coats, though…
  • Z6: This is a quick detailing spray for the Zaino system. It brings everything up to a bright shine! The best QD I’ve found.
  • Z7: Zaino auto shampoo
  • Z9: Zaino leather cleaner spray
  • Z10: Zaino leather conditioner. It makes your car smell like a Coach leathergoods store! Great stuff!
  • Z16: Zaino rubber/vinyl treatment. It does a great job with trim, but doesn’t last very long. I love the way it looks when freshly applied, though. Goes a long way when applied with foam sponges.
  • Z18: Zaino Clay-bar. An exfoliant for your paint.
  • Zaino Applicators: 100% cotton cover and 100% cotton stitching. The Zaino recommended means for application. BradB recommends using pure foam applicators and I’m going to convert, though I’ve been using the cotton applicators for years… the foam doesn’t use as much sealant and allows for a thinner, more even coat.
• Mothers Clay-Bar: A locally available alternative to the Zaino Clay-Bar. http://www.mothers.com/products/
• 303 Aerospace Upholstery Cleaner: This is a good all-around cleaner for stubborn dirt and grime. (BradB: My absolute favorite upholsteryand carper/mat cleaner!) 32oz for $8 at http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...303-30551.html
• 303 Aerospace Protectant: A great exterior rubber protectant with UV blockers. $8 for 8oz at http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?autopia+GjQk9r+303-230330.html[/font] BradB: I recommend this for interiors. It has great UV protection for dash and seats, doors, etc. but low durability for exterior use. Matte finish. Has one of the highest UV protection levels on the market.
• Bug & Tar Remover: My grandfather had a can of this stuff from Turtle Wax in his garage. It’s full of solvents that will strip dried bug guts off of your car without scrubbing… along with your wax and probably your sealant. $3-5 dollars at Target. (BradB reluctantly admitted that he keeps a small bottle of this stuff in his trunk for “bug emergencies.”)
• Meguiars Scratch-X: I keep a tube of this in my garage and I reach for it first when I get a scratch. It has a good balance of abrasiveness and solvents for most uses. You will need to Dawn wash and re-seal as I believe it has a wax in it as well. (BradB: I don’t see the need to Dawn wash, really. But then, with so many better, i.e. more consistent abrasives available, I never use ScratchX. ) . $5 a tube or so. http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...g-g-10307.html
• Cleaner Wax: I’ve got a small sample bottle of Meguiars cleaner wax in my garage that I reach for when I have a small scratch. A cleaner wax has wax (of course), solvents and sometimes a bit of mechanical abrasive in it. It’s more gentle than Scratch X. Probably $5 at auto supply store http://www.properautocare.com/medprempainc.html
• 3M Rubbing Compound: This is the rough stuff. 3M makes a very good product with a very uniform cutting particle size. I’ve used other compounds with horrible results and I swear by 3M. BE VERY, VERY CAREFUL WITH THIS RUBBING COMPOUND. It can wear through your paint in a heartbeat. I’ve stripped away single-stage paint (no clearcoat) in less than 5 seconds when using this with my dual-action polisher. (BradB: It is best used on old, highly oxidized paint that suffers from serious neglect. It needs to be followed up by finer compounds.)
• 3M Fine-Cut Rubbing Compound: It’s more gentile than the regular rubbing compound. Use this to knock out the scratches caused by the more abrasive stuff. This is generally used to reduce scratches caused from 1000 grit sandpaper or paint touch up blobs. http://www.properautocare.com/3mperfincutc.html
• 3M Swirl Mark Remover: Even finer than the Fine-Cut. They make this in a dark car formulation as well… I’d bet that one has some filler in it to round out the bottom of the swirl marks. (BradB: There is a HUGE jump down from Fine Cut to SMR. SMR does have fillers in it. SMR for light cars and dark cars is exactly the same except for the pigment color of its filler. If you used Fine cut you need to use an intermediate step before you can use SMR. I suggest 3M Finesse It II.). http://www.properautocare.com/3mperswirmar.html
• Sonus Paintwork Cleanser: The final preparation step before sealing to really bring out the shine. Great Stuff. $13 for 16oz. http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...r+son-400.html
• Rain-X Glass Polish: I’m not a big fan of Rain-X, but their glass polish is top-notch. I bought a few bottles from a discount bin at an auto parts store. I’m sure that any glass polish would do fairly well. Probably $5 for 20oz bottle.
• Swiffer Dusters: These were made for dusting your house but do a great job of capturing dust from your dash as well. $10 for a multi-pack at your local grocery store. http://www.homemadesimple.com/swiffe.../dusters.shtml
• P21S Carnuba Wax: A carnuba wax with abrasives. Great stuff and fairly reasonably priced for a pure carnuba. $32 for 6.2oz at http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...r+p21-127.html
• Dawn Dishwashing Liquid: I buy the original blue formula. This stuff has a strong alkaline nature to it that strips away old wax and oils. It is important to wash with Dawn before applying a Zaino finish to ensure a proper bond between the Zaino and the paint. You don’t want to use this every time you wash as it will dry out the plastics and rubber in your car… maybe even dull the finish. (BradB: It won’t unless you used it weekly…..forever!) $3 at the grocery store.
• Plastic-X Plastic Polish: Use to polish plastic lenses (tail lights, etc). $5 at http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...g-g-12310.html
• 303 Wiper Treatment: Cleans and conditions your wiper blades to work like new. $4 at http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?autopia+GjQk9r+303-30336.html
• Enszett 1Z Rubber Protection Stick (Gummipflege): They used to carry it at Autopia (http://www.autopia-carcare.com/1z-914805.html) but they discontinued it. You might be able to get it at BMW dealers. $7 for a 100mL stick.
• Stoners Invisible Glass: A great all-around glass cleaner. I probably paid $5 for a can at an auto parts store. http://www.properautocare.com/9116.html
• Eagle One 20/20: One of BradB’s staple glass cleaners. $3 for a bottle. http://www.eagleone.com/_products/4,4045618M.asp
• Sonus Glass Cleaner: Another of BradB’s favorite glass cleaners. http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...r+son-150.html $6 for 16 oz.
• Autoglym Glass Polish: A solid glass polish. http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...r+ag-4325.html
• Never Dull: BradB’s favorite metal polish. 5oz for $5 http://www.eagleone.com/_products/0,1035605.asp
• 303 Aerospace Cleaner: A great all purpose cleaner that you can dilute. 32oz for $14 http://store.yahoo.com/classic-motoring/303aerclean.html
• Forever Black: A dye you can use to bring your black plastic bits back to showroom fresh. 4oz for $8. http://store.yahoo.com/classic-motor...bltrredye.html
• Meguiar’s #40 Rubber cleaner/conditioner: BradB’s recommended engine rubber conditioner. I believe he also favors it for the wheel arches (exterior textured hard plastic) on his MINI’s arches. http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...eg-m-4016.html 30oz for $10

 

For those of you who would like a Word document of this process, I've attached it here.

agranger

 

wow.. insane process. Lots of time, but i'm sure the results are just plain amazing.

The write up is really helpful though, definitely something I'll take another read over when spring comes around and It's time to really care for the car. I've never used a porter cable though, I like to do things by hand for some reason.

 

I found this place that carries the 1Z stuff, since Autopia since discontinued it.

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...szt-detail.htm

 

Insane process? Well... I was surprised how long it was when everything was said and done. I could have kept going on several sections, but tried to keep it as simple as possible.
It looks kinda crazy when everything is written down like that, but once you get the car into a decent condition, you just do the weekly routine every weekend and then just add one more step from the larger processes. I don't schedule a massive wash/clay/polish/zaino/detail weekend twice a year... not only would my wife kill me, but I would also get tired of it very quickly.

A lot of the process is simple changes to the way I grew up washing cars in the driveway with my dad. It looks massive when written, but it comes naturally after doing it once or twice.

 

Wow - awesome writeup! Thanks, agranger and Brad! (And thanks for the Word doc - very thoughtful!)

I just wanted to add a bit on agranger's comment above. I just Zaino'ed my car for the first time, last week. Going in, I had felt very intimidated by the description of the whole process (and all those Z-this and Z-that numbers don't help at all - it's like trying to keep track of Porsche model numbers!). But once I got into the process, I realized that it's all pretty straightforward and it doesn't really take that much time. It pretty much comes down to:

1. Wash the car with Dawn
(optional) 2. Clay the car (optional, but highly recommended)
(optional) 3. Wash again (if you clayed)
4. Polish with Z5 (the "coarser" of the two polishes, to remove swirl marks)
5. Wait 30 minutes, wipe off polish, and go over the car quickly with Z6 spray.
6. Polish with Z2 (a "finer," "shinier" polish)
7. Wait 30, wipe, and apply Z6 again.
8. Repeat steps 6 (Z2) and 7 (wait, wipe, Z6) and you're done.

So, except for the clay, you basically wash the car and then wax it three times. I found the whole process lot less complicated, less intimidating, and less time consuming than it sounded from all the descriptions I've read. It made a lot more sense once I got into it.

And I'm assuming that now that I have a good "base" down, touch-ups will be a lot quicker. For example, I could wash the car, go inside and watch the Kings play (go Kings!), apply Z2 at halftime, watch the rest of the game, and wipe the car and Z6 it when the game's over.

So if you've been wanting to try the Zaino products but have been feeling overwhelmed, I'd say, just go for it. The results are outstanding and I've seen a few comparison tests where Zaino came out on top for shine and longevity.

My neighbor came walking by while I was on the final Z6 step and said, "Wow - she shines up real good!" And a couple days later, a friend commented that she looked "brand new" (with 5000+ miles on her).

(PS - be sure to use the ZFX Accelerator with the Z2 and Z5 polishes. That's what allows you to wipe off these polishes off after only a 30 minute wait.)

HTH-

 

LombardStreet's post made me realize that I forgot to include detailed Zaino-ing instructions! This beast is never ending!

I've edited the main posts above to include these instructions and I've updated the Word file for your downloading / printing pleasure.

Good catch LS!

 

I think the main thing that was insane to me was all the supplies. I can't imagine how much all that would cost. I noticed that you said you are working up your collection of items, but as of now, all I have to use is a lambs wool mitt, aerospace and some cheap microfibers. I'm already worried about the high price of Zaino, with the included costs of all these other supplies, I may not be able to eat for a month.

But, I guess I got to start somewhere. my first purchase will most likely be the zaino kit and some better microfibers.

One thing I'm worried about wasn't mentioned much was the carpet. I have the both the rubber all weather and thin carpet from mini, and although the fit is great, the very edge of my carpet gets dirty. What's the best way to tackle this, I really want to get a steamer to take it on, but is there any other way to do it? I remember seeing CSI one day and they said when you clean carpet generally all you are doing is pushing it deeper in the carpet, so I want to aviod that if possible.

 

I haven't cleaned MINI carpeted mats, so I can't speak to them directly. I have, however, done the OEM mats other cars. BradB has used and strongly recommends 303 Upholstry Cleaner (link in the supplies section above and he wrote a review of it in the past month or so on this board).

When the mats get really bad my other cars, I just take them to one of those spray wand do-it-yourself places, hang them on the wall and blast them full of soap. Blast rinse them with LOTS of fresh water. I then set them on a trash bag in the trunk (they will be soaking wet) and drip dry them outside (or on my garage floor if the weather is nasty). This has restored nasty mats to great condition, but wears on the mats fairly quickly... 3-4 treatments like this and they get a bit fuzzy. It had gotten to the point where I was either going to replace them or blast 'em clean, so I figured "Why not try?".

When using this method, make sure to rinse out ALL of the soap or the soap will be sticky and will attract every bit of dust and dirt on your floor. Your mats will be grey with dirt in a few months.

I currently use a Wal-mart found (can't remember the brand) upholstry cleaner to spot clean my carpeted mats. After a few years, I'll try the wand method above and just replace them if they are beyond repair.

 

Your process is very good..and very well documented!


My only comment..and upon review I follow much the same routine(s) ... is that I've recently used Einszett Glanz Wax on the MINI and I really like the results. Much less involved to apply and I really like the look and feel.

Beyond that I'd just say that anybody who questions your routine as over the top....isn't sufficiently dedicated!

Peter

 

Agranger/ Brad B,


Great write up!! I appreciate you taking the time to share this info with us! WOW!! I printed it out and it will be a mainstay in my garage. Two quick questions for you. Why are you switching to the foam applicators? Why are they better than the 100% cotton? Who makes the "safest" foam applicators to use?

Also, I noticed that you don't use the z-1. The directions say to apply this prior to z-2 as a pre-cleaner. Is this step not necessary?

Thanks for your help!!

 

In regards to Z1: It is my understanding that Z1 is no longer needed when you use Z-2 or Z-5 (Zaino polishes) with ZFX (fast activator). I ordered the biggest of the Zaino kits about a year ago and Z1 did not come with it.

In regards to the foam applicators: BradB listed a slew of reasons to switch to foam applicators vs. the 100% cotton ones. The most important one is the ability to apply a thin, even coat of Zaino. I'm always frustrated with the Zaino 100% cotton applicator as it seems that half of the Zanio I mix up is still on the applicator at the end of covering the car. Brad mentioned in another post, being able to give 2 coats to a friends car with just an ounce of Zaino. I've done my car with just under an ounce, but 2 coats? No way! I also find it kinda difficult to apply it evenly at the beginning until the applicator has soaked up enough of the polish as to have a saturated surface.

I believe that there is also a quality concern with the applicators (Zaino-brand applicators are always 100% cotton, but most are 100% cotton covers with nylon stiching that can scratch your clearcoat). The foam applicators on autopia-carcare with the little handles seem very cool from an ergonomic point of view as well... http://www.autopia-carcare.com/vk-101.html

As for the process being over the top... My wife thought so too until people started asking her how she kept her car so beautiful. I had been waxing (Nu-finish or Meguiars Gold Class) every 6 months for years, but nobody mentioned it until I switched to Zaino. I parked her SUV outside of a cellular phone store the other day and went into the shop next door. One of the sales guys came running out when he saw us come back... their staff had been talking about the finish for several minutes and they had to know how we did it.

 

Thanks for the advice. I figured most of these questions for myself by 1) Late-night from your pamphlet , and 2) Diggin a little deeper in the zaino web site. Thanks for the tip on the good foam applicator.


I placed my order for a little kit I created.

Z2
Z5
Z6 QD
Zaino Leather Cleaner
Zaino Leather Conditioner
ZFX
2 applicators (got a 3rd one free!)

From Microfibertech:
1 Large Waffle Weave microfiber Towel
10 Pack polishing microfiber towels
2 buffing towels
2 glass towels

Along with all the other junk I have in my garage, this oughtta be a pretty good start . My wife is starting to look at me like ths !! It sure is frun though. Thanks for the advice!

 

Nice write- up

And thanks for the links....it did lighten my wallet a bit though

 

Great writeup! Very detailed, and lots of good info.

You can also save yourself a boatload of cash and time, by using Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax and get a result that looks better and offers more protection.

Two thin coats of NXT is better than 12 coats of Zaino and it smells wonderful!!!

 

An NXT fan, eh!

Just one of many tests of Zaino vs NXT durability.

 

how come this thread isnt stickied!

 

ive been using zaino for awhile now.. i gotta say it's probably the slickest stuff ive used ever!

i do have one question though.. ive looked over the zaino of those who wrote their method... is it true that after buffing off zaino, i can lay down a fresh layer with no reprecussion? i looked on zaino's website and it recommends that i wait 12-24 hours before i lay the next coat to make sure the first layer has cured...

bradb, aranger.. you guys want to fill me in on that?

 

If you use ZFX, the Zaino polymer accelerant, you can lay down 2-3 coats in a 24 hour period with no problems. After that, you want to give the 2-3 layers a chance to tighten up (cure). If you choose not to use ZFX, I would stick to 1 coat per day.

Thanks for resurrecting this thread... I hate bumping just for the sake of bumping and I'm surprised this hasn't gone 'sticky'.

 

My vote for a "sticky" as well.

While there is never one way to do anything, this thread is a wonderful, well though out resource that many people have commented on how much they have enjoyed it once they "found" it.

 

sticky this up!

 

You need to add Z8 to the process! The stuff is addictive, It makes a huge difference with wiping bugs off. Its like the car is made of non-stick teflon!