R60 Soft Check Engine Light
#1
Soft Check Engine Light
So this is now the 3rd time it has happened. If I give a long full throttle pull in 3rd or 4th gear I get an orange check engine light. Nothing changes in the performance of the car. When I turn the car off and back on, the engine light is gone and there are no codes or engine lights. Dealer told me it is most likely the gas cap, anyone else have an idea before I buy a new one?
#3
The CEL only stays on until I shut the car off. I can literally come to a stop right after it turns on, shut the car off and restart, light is gone and no code to be found. I have a Scangauge hooked up at all times and never any codes. I've even checked with another code reader and nothing. I purchased this vehicle used so I don't have all of the service records, not sure if the HPFP has been replaced.
#4
try to scan it when the CEL is on. since it is intermittent and happens only when you demand speed, it then has something to do with ignition system. either not enough fuel (HPFP), not proper spark (spark plugs) or turbo not giving enough air.
you feel hesitation and loose of power WHILE that is taking place?
you feel hesitation and loose of power WHILE that is taking place?
#5
try to scan it when the CEL is on. since it is intermittent and happens only when you demand speed, it then has something to do with ignition system. either not enough fuel (HPFP), not proper spark (spark plugs) or turbo not giving enough air.
you feel hesitation and loose of power WHILE that is taking place?
you feel hesitation and loose of power WHILE that is taking place?
No loss of anything. It came on last night after a long 3-4th gear pull to 100mph to merge onto highway. Then drove over 60 miles at 70 mph+ with no issues. a few other on ramp romps on the way home and boost was still hitting 15psi (I have jb+). After getting to first stop sign I turned car off and back on, light was gone and no code. Drove 20 miles to work today and everything was normal.
#7
Correct, only comes on during long (20+ second), full throttle pulls, which aren't often. Short 10 second romps or anything that requires a shift and lift off accelerator never shows a light.
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#8
Sounds similar to my check engine light issue which was revealing a code related to turbo when I would downshift hard--spiking up the rpms. As their are at least 6 codes for turbo/blow off valve, the dealer could not tell me which particular code it was. Dealer recommended and reprogrammed the engine for $185 with the statement that 9 out of 10 times it will resolve itself (I assume by making the thresholds limits more lenient). They quoted that if you needed a turbo replacement, it would be $4,000 (turbo itself is $2,700) Good luck..
#9
Sounds similar to my check engine light issue which was revealing a code related to turbo when I would downshift hard--spiking up the rpms. As their are at least 6 codes for turbo/blow off valve, the dealer could not tell me which particular code it was. Dealer recommended and reprogrammed the engine for $185 with the statement that 9 out of 10 times it will resolve itself (I assume by making the thresholds limits more lenient). They quoted that if you needed a turbo replacement, it would be $4,000 (turbo itself is $2,700) Good luck..
Turbo going wouldn't be the worst thing... Would give me extra incentive to go bigger sooner! thanks for the input, I'm going to keep an eye on it, I'll order a new fuel cap as it's a cheap easy part I can scratch off the list of possibilities. Until I can get a code out of it I'm just throwing darts.
#10
You need a dealer level code scan to see if any historical or pending codes exist that other readers don't see. I scanned my car with three different readers and only the independent mechanics one showed all the codes I never saw. My gas cap went, but produced a code and the light stayed on.