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I learned today that if some Mo Ron is tailgating you in your mini and you use your rear window wipers the fluid gets all over their car and windshield and they'll back off.
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T Cox
Charlotte, NC
2011 Mini Cooper S, Chili Red, "Red"
JCW Stage One Tune
I learned today that if some Mo Ron is tailgating you in your mini and you use your rear window wipers the fluid gets all over their car and windshield and they'll back off.
I love having 10 illuminated markers for the fuel gauge. Instead of thinking in quarters of a tank and eighths of a tank, I now think in tenths - i.e., I have 7 tenths of a tank, or 3 tenths of a tank, etc. Each illuminated symbol (or each 'vane' if you think of it as a windmill ... or 'carrots' if your name is Bigprfed22, candy corn if you are RJKimbell) represents .10 tank, or one tenth. The system turns the windmill red at .2 (20%). It was funny when I told my wife I had six tenths of a tank left ... she looked at me like I was nuts.
The fuel gauge is non linear, so if you have 6 petals left, you probably don't have six tenths of a tank. There are several threads about exactly what each petal means.
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Serial MINI owners (keep 2), Shawn: 08 Cooper-S (DS/B with red cloth/leather interior). Tristan: 07 Cooper (LB/W with blue cloth/leather interior). Quentin: 05 Cooper-S (PH/W). Our first: 04 Cooper (Indi Blue/White)
The fuel gauge is non linear, so if you have 6 petals left, you probably don't have six tenths of a tank. There are several threads about exactly what each petal means.
The R56 has a 2-stage thermostat. Normally runs 220-230 degrees F, which is boiling for most cars, for greater efficiency. When you drive harder, the second stage opens up and temperature drops to 180-ish, for greater air/fuel density and extra power. Clever.
The R56 has a 2-stage thermostat. Normally runs 220-230 degrees F, which is boiling for most cars, for greater efficiency. When you drive harder, the second stage opens up and temperature drops to 180-ish, for greater air/fuel density and extra power. Clever.
Not so much. Boiling temprature would be determined by the radiator pressure cap. Every modern car uses a pressureized cooling sysem. Boiling won't occur until you have exceeded the staturation temp of coolant at the rated pressure of the cap. (say you have a 19 psi pressure cap, that's 33.7psia. Saturation temp at that pressure is 257F. it's an example, not an actual measurement from a MINI) So most cars really aren't close to boiling...
The water temp should usually stay right at 220F +- a couple. Turn on the AC to max, and you can watch the temp drop like a rock to about 178F. The water pump, tstat and engine cooling fans are controlled by the ECU>
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No matter where you go, there you are...
MINI changed the chrome trim ring around the key for the LCI (or maybe a bit before). From a cheap chrome-look plastic one - both of which for my 2007 Cooper are now cheap white-look plastic, and one has broken . To a proper metal ring.
I tracked down the part number for the metal ring: 61313456374
(With thanks to another forum here on NAM )
__________________ pw4
R56: K-Mac camber, JCW brakes, K&N CAI, Hella 1000s, sunroof, wood,...
R56 LCI: Alta rear bar & gauges; JCW brakes, gearknob & dash; LSD; 17" RJR wheels; sunroof; Lyle wraps; stripes; Hella 500 & FF500 lights,... Chili Red Owners Club #642
__________________ 2007 Cooper S. NM CAI, NM titanium turbo heat shield, 3rd brake pulsar, Zimmerman cross drilled rotors, EBC redstuff brake pads, H Sport rear sway bar, Enkei 16X7 WMD wheels, Yokohama S drives 205/50r/16 shoes, BSH OCC, Forge BOV kit, boost tap. MiniMania alloy upper strut brace, Z series adjustable antenna. Sparkling silver with flat black stripes, limo tint. Blackjack union mirror covers, skuttles, and door handles.
There are only 4 or 6 threads dedicated just to that subject, yeah...
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2012 Justa "Fenimore". 3000 miles and counting!
Ice Blue, White top, White stripes, Sport seats, Sport suspension.
Ordered: 8/23. Built 9/9. Loaded on the Platinum Ray 9/13. Delivered to the Port Hueneme VDC 10/4. Driven HOME by me 10/7.
On my car push the start button and release....then depress the clutch. The car will start. I tried this with 2012 Countryman on the showroom floor and it worked as well. I wonder if it will work the same on an auto...Push and release the start button...then depress the brake.
On my car push the start button and release....then depress the clutch. The car will start. I tried this with 2012 Countryman on the showroom floor and it worked as well. I wonder if it will work the same on an auto...Push and release the start button...then depress the brake.
gary
FYI....Just tried it with my auto and it didn't work.
__________________ 2007 Cooper S. NM CAI, NM titanium turbo heat shield, 3rd brake pulsar, Zimmerman cross drilled rotors, EBC redstuff brake pads, H Sport rear sway bar, Enkei 16X7 WMD wheels, Yokohama S drives 205/50r/16 shoes, BSH OCC, Forge BOV kit, boost tap. MiniMania alloy upper strut brace, Z series adjustable antenna. Sparkling silver with flat black stripes, limo tint. Blackjack union mirror covers, skuttles, and door handles.
MINI changed the chrome trim ring around the key for the LCI (or maybe a bit before). From a cheap chrome-look plastic one - both of which for my 2007 Cooper are now cheap white-look plastic, and one has broken . To a proper metal ring.
I tracked down the part number for the metal ring: 61313456374
(With thanks to another forum here on NAM )
Covered under warranty in the US My August 1st, 2010 build 2011 (yes, the first day of production) had plastic rings.
I read earlier in the thread that holding the steering wheel arrow left or right will seek the next station am/fm up or down instead of the momentary next preset up or down. When in Srius if you push INF the steering wheel arrows will take the radio to the next channel up or down as opposed to when not in INF using the arrows taking you to the next preset.