So I bought a 2011 cooper, it had a check engine light on. The dealer said they would fix whatever the light was causing.


Here's all the fault codes, they replaced the DSC control unit and YAW sensor. That lasted less than a month and everything came back on. What I have noticed is a crazy loud clicking noise when I insert my key and that's when all the lights came on. Now my car won't even start, it will turn over once and die then it won't even try like it has a dead battery but they battery has 12.7 volts and is brand new. Guy at the dealership said the fuse panel may be bad and possibly the CAS control unit also since it was listed in the faults. Please help

 

The same thing it's happening with my 2008 mini. But the only fault codes I have are for the o2 sensor, did you ever get your issue fixed? If so how?

 

I have the same problem, fuse box on passenger side making noise, dealer replaced the fuse box for $800 2 weeks ago and problem continues, can someone help please?

Thanks

 

check the battery.

 

I replaced battery and starter also

 

maybe the key is not sitting right in the docking? do you have another key to try?

 

Yes I do, I will try later today
Thanks

 

I tried with a different key and I have the same problem, it sounds like one of the relays is on and off

 

So, you insert the key, everything turns on, then you hit start with foot on the brakes, then it clicks on and off fast, right/? if so, check the battery connections. make sure they are tight and pressed down.

 

Sorry for my late response,
everything looks good, I checked all the wires
​​​​​​ The scratching noise would appear just by putting the key on the ignition with out pressing the brakes or gas pedals, most of the times would go away after a few seconds, but sometimes it doesn't
A quick note, before I got the fuse box replaced by the dealer, we notice that the brake lights would stay on after removing the key from the ignition and the only two options to turn them off was by putting the key several times on the ignition or by disconnet the negative wire on the battery for a few minutes
Thanks

 

Does any body have a suggestion what is creating this noise (problem)?
Note that before the fuse box replacement, brake lights would stay on and after putting the key on the ignition several times or removing the negative battery terminal the noise would go away for a week
Thanks

 

Any body??
​​​​​​

 

I spend over $2,000 to get the problem fixed, the last part the dealer replaced solved the problem
The part is:
CAS module
Hope nobody needs to do the same repair.
For now no more relays making noise or brake lights staying on

 

Did the dealer say what happened to the CAS module. Your description sounds like something shorted out. is it Possible that it got wet?

 

they don't know what caused the part to malfunction
​​​​
I did asked if the part got wet and ​​​​​​they told me that the part never got wet
I requested the old part back and looks like new no damage or signs of been wet

 

My 2008 Mini Cooper has a similar symptom. There is rapid clicking noise from near the secondary fuse box inside the car when inserting the key but before starting the engine, or when stopping the engine before and after removing the key. Sometimes the brake light will come on when the car is clicking and after I remove the key. Occasionally, I could not start the car when it is clicking. I found that these symptoms only happened during hot day. In the morning or at night, they never showed up.

My town does not have a Mini or BMW service. I brought the car into a garage specialized in Mini. After inspection, the mechanic told me the CAS needs to be replaced and I need to bring to car to the BMW dealership 100 miles away. Yes. He also gave a price of $2,000+ estimate.

I like my mini but on paper, its value is not much more than the new CAS. I intend to fix it myself to train my myself. But is the CAS replacement the correct way to go?

Help.....

MT

 

You have to take it to the dealer, they have to program the new part, I think your cost would be $1,200 parts and labor

 

With all my flooded mini, never one had an issue with the CAS module. Again, check the battery for proper voltage and connection. The fuse box is almost always at risk of damage from water leaks from the sunroof. Or moisture.

What town you're in?

 

Thanks. I live on the wet side of a Hawaii island. I checked my battery and the reading (11.8v) is low according to some other posts. It does look like I need a new battery. Will update once I do that.

Just curious about the cause. I understand that a complicated system like a car would go berserk if not enough electrics going thru it, but can someone relate the clicking noise and brake lights (i suppose they are mostly from one of the relays) with the electric power?

 

when you look at a battery, it is not only voltage you want to check. You also have the current to consider. it is possible to have a 14v battery with 50amp and still not being able to start the car.
Some systems in the car, like the ABS, may require higher amperage to function correctly while other systems don't mind a lower rating.

 

ok soo i have a similar situation where lots of clicking happen every time i put the key in. The clicking noise is coming from the the passenger side area. It does the crazy clicking every time i insert the key, then it does it again when i try to start it. When it does start which only at Night/Mornings after i turn it off the clicking continues a little and then it stops. I have changed the battery and alternator a couple days ago and all i can find is people talking about the CAS Module going faulty or the Fuse Box going bad. I do have the sunroof on my mini which i now learned about the situation with that but i still don’t get why it only starts in the morning or night time when is much cooler. Can anyone help me with what it could be?

 

Also Whatever it is, it drained my battery i have taken the battery to Orielly’s to get it charged. They tested the battery and the voltage is at 14.3 and they said its good and they also tested my alternator and it came out good. Keep in mind both battery and alternator are new but i still had them checked just in case literally got both a couple days ago.

 

When the fuse box gets corroded internally, the circuit board starts to draw current and causes these clickings. Double check that fuse box and make sure there is no corrosion inside or on the connectors. you may buy a used one with matching part numbers to see if the issue reoccurs.

 

Our 2012 Cooper S is having many of the same problems mentioned in this thread. Clicking (crackling) from under the passenger seat. Rear brake lights staying on. Battery draining. Also, some dashboard warning lights staying on - traction control and ABS lights. Car drives fine though. Our BMW/MINI dealer got out of the MINI business so went to a local Mercedes/BMW/MINI specialist. They are saying the CAS module is causing our issues and they see this often. They just got the part and will know tomorrow if that solves it. $1300 parts an labor - ouch! But sounds like in the ballpark of those already mentioned. I hope this solves it.

 

I have few mini coopers to actually test parts and give more accurate diagnosis vs guessing. I could also clone your CAS if need be and even make you a key for less than half that quote.

Keep me posted should anything change.

Ps. Located in the States.