well I finally got the motor torn apart, 2 broken exhaust vales laying on top of piston, timing chain completely destroyed, chain, sprockets, guides, oil pump and the head. So ive inspected the motor and came to my own conclusion. Cylinders are great, smooth bores no scratches. im replacing one piston, rod and bearings. Need to locate a head, oil pump, water pump, timing chain kit, gaskets and other misc parts. All in all this will save me thousands in labor cost.
QUESTION: Can I pull 1 piston and replace.
Also I was not able to lock crank and cams in place so can I still put motor in time before putting back together ??

 

Wow - did the chain itself fail, or just the guide rails?
If the chain went, I'm surprised only 2 valves are damaged, and not more.

What's the total cost for all the parts?
For reference, I had replaced the entire block with OEM unit for ~$3.5K last year. It included all of the above, plus new t-stat and vacuum pump (known weak points that should be addressed "while you are in there").

The standard cam lock position at 90 deg BTDC for cyl 1. All four cylinders will be exactly level, and you could measure piston height in each cylinder and set them to be exactly level when done. The flywheel locking hole should also perfectly align with the bell housing cutout at that point.

Getting the camps into the right position could be similarly accomplished manually: turn them until the shaft lettering is on top and the locking tool fits over the square locking portion of the camshaft, than lock them in place one by one, with the tool. But you absolutely need the cam locking tool to keep them in-place as you torque the sprockets to the shafts. There is no way around getting the camshaft locking tool.

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Thanks good advise. its frustrating because there are no videos out there on head or engine removal on a R-56 from 2007 and up, also the chiltons manual isn't very explanatory. Not that I cant tear down a motor but it would be nice to have some helpful info to expedite. not like your typical chevy v8.
the book doesn't mention anything about removing the one head bolt that fits under the intake solenoid, couldn't see it. then I had to remove the solenoid but could see the mounting bolt or bracket. no info on that either SOO channel locks a hard twist breaking the bracket off and its out. now I see the one head bolt with room for a socket, remove it and the head comes off. Frustrating, wish there was a step by step manual. maybe I should write one. lol
Not sure on cost for parts yet. I have yet to locate a complete head either rebuilt or new OEM. yes the cost of a long block may be 4500 BUT labor intensive for me and not so cost friendly for an expert on minies to do the work. im thinking 3000 for all parts doing it this way.

 

Not sure were the failure started from. I did however find an old chain tensioner bolt laying on the sub frame, it was pretty dirty. So someone had replaced it before at some point. this car only has 77,000 miles on it. previouse owner bought it with 52,000 miles. Nothing showed up in the VIN search for timing chain.

 

Can I remove and replace 1 piston rod and bearings from bottom to top. ive done it in a v8 but that's it. ???

 

IMO, you are better off rebuilding the head then to find a used one. I contemplated going with a used one when I bought my 07 MCS with a broken timing chain, but they were no where to be found on eBay and the like which should come as no surprise. In the end, I replaced all my valves and valve seals instead of just the four bent exhaust valves.
As for replacing just one piston, see no reason why not. Good luck on the rebuild.

 

2x on avadeev camshaft locking tool (got mine at Koch Tools) and vacuum pump.

 

If you don't already have it, get the Bentley manual. It has all the torque specs and proper timing procedures. Along with part numbers for special tools that may be needed.

BTW, the Bentley manual does have the bolt near the Vanos solenoid listed in the instructions.

 

@ sleepy289, the head was destroyed so ill have to find a good used one or buy new oem, I do have the tools to lock cams and crank. thanks


@Cerenkov, the Bentley manual, do I look for the mini version or the motor. ill try there manual if I can find one. thanks.

 

You need the one for the second generation MINI (the manual includes all the motors N12/16, N14/18):

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2777802/

 

You also need a chain tensioner tool, as described in the Bentley manual.

Fuel injector seals need a special tool to install. It might be easier to take the head to a dealer BEFORE you install it, let them do the injector seals. Labor costs vs tool costs?

For a used replacement head, send a PM to MNIPWR, he had one that might be in good shape. He replaced it with one rebuilt by Thumper, not because it failed. Regardless, you should have any used head thoroughly checked and valves seated.

Changing only 1 piston assy --- maybe OK for a daily driver, but it'll be like a chain with one extra strong link. And will you do a break-in procedure for just one piston?

Make sure the crank is positioned and locked correctly BEFORE mounting the head. With the pistons all at "half-mast", there will be no interference issues when positioning the cams.

Finally, don't try to salvage the cam mounting caps (10 or 12 --- can't remember), they're matched to the head and are NOT interchangeable.

 

Unless the rod bearing and rod journal are alright you shouldn't have a problem replacing the rod and or the piston, I more concerned about what you don't see as a major roadblock. Those piston rings are worn to match the cylinder, don't know how well new rings will be after break-in. You don't want your cylinders too far off psi wise. Best solution either rebuild entire engine or buy a new or crate motor, it's not always as easy as you might think once you start to find more problems. 2 cents.

 

All very good advise. My plan was to pull the one piston and replace with new, rings, rod, bearings etc. the cylinders are all really smooth but I also had plans on doing a lite honing on the one cylinder. this car is my 15 year old daughters car. ill drive it for awhile to break in before I turn her loose. I think im more worried about her boyfriends driving it than her, but that's another issue. hahaha
The fuel injectors came out really easy but your saying that I need a tool to install ??
All in all I do agree with your advise thanks for your imput. Will keep everyone posted.

 

Fuel injectors --- look at the new seals and compare the OD with old ones. Now imagine trying to install these mounted seals into the head. The tool compresses the seal for a few minutes so each FI ***'y can be installed separately, then the rail can be put on.

I suggest you assemble the FI system before installing the head. Maybe you can figure out how to do it without the special tool. If not, at least the head is still off and you can either take it to a shop that has the tool, or get your own tool. Considering the internal engine forces involved, I'd hate to screw up the FI seal.

I'm assuming that the rest of the NAM community hasn't mentioned this because most of us that have rebuilt these engines have had someone else do the work, and aren't aware of this problem. I hope I'm wrong about this assumption. Maybe they just haven't seen this thread yet.

 

Good advise, thank you. I guess im used to my diesel engines just pressing rt in.. I agree, I will assemble as much as possible before installing the head, theres a lot back there. thanks again, ill keep you posted.

 

I'm curious...Why not upgrade your pistons since you need to replace one? It seems like the best time to since you'll have all the labor cost already there?

 

laforze, don't have that kind of money, if I did id just buy a new OEM motor and have someone just install it for me. Ive been around motors all my life, from motorcycles to snowmobiles, cars, trucks etc. As long as you have good compression and no issues with the cylinders theirs no need to replace all pistons etc. Look at drag racing for instance, I have a lot of friends who drag, if they have a dead cylinder they'll fix it 1st rather than pull the whole motor and going through the massive cost of replacing all parts. if they burn a valve they'll yank only that head instead of both. Same concept here. This motor is in good shape, cylinders are all good, no scarring. Im only replacing the 1 piston and rod because the broke valve heads beat up the top of the piston. Again its mostly cost. 650 bucks for all 4 pistons only plus 100 ea for rods. $1050 or $250. ??

 

+1

 

Well after hours of looking on the web and getting prices for a cylinder head I finally found one in Washington, gave $770 for it and had it shipped. Then had it checked and cleaned by Folks racing engines in Norman Oklahoma. The head checks out fine and will not need a valve job thus saving me even more money on this money pit of a car. Oil pump has been taken apart and cleaned and checked, has high pressure. Now im looking for a piston and rod. Found one used on ebay but he is way out of range with pricing so anyone who may have one for my 09 R56 let me know. A new price is crazy high for 1 set.

 

I wouldn't buy a used rod and piston, not with the amount of money and time you're putting into this. There is a reason why that rod and piston aren't in an engine right now.

 

Agree, the only problem is I cannot find anywhere that will sell me just one rod, piston and bearings. any suggestions.

 

We have the rods in sets of four, that's only how MINI sells them. Pistons are singles, and comes with the rings. O sized.









Good luck on the rebuild. Need anything let me know.

 

I would keep looking, someone must have what you need out there somewhere. Depending on how the wear looks on your rod bearing you might be better off using the original and just change the rod and piston. The rod bearing and rod journal wear together like a fingerprint. Try putting a wanted add on eBay for the rod and piston.

 

Well I had the rod checked by Folks Racing engines here in Norman Oklahoma, they stated it was bent and twisted. The piston was beat up pretty good on top so I somewhat believe it. Question is do I take the chance on buying site unseen other used pistons and rods. Like you said there is a reason why they pulled them out. I would have to purchase them dirt cheep otherwise I may as well buy new.
$257 for a new piston with rings and pin. ive only found used rods or buy 4 at $400 plus.

 

I know you probably know...but just thing about having to do it all over again because your rods/piston where defective....I don't know but for that much work I would put brand new piston and Rods. My 2 cents