OK, I have been over this to the point of losing conscience. I purchased a newish 2008 with 42k miles on it 34 days ago. I have had nothing but issues with the brakes, wheels and tires. The dealer swapped out customs for stock wheels and tires because the sensor was tripped. And after visiting 4 repair facilities that say the rotors are bad. (The dealer says all bmws act this way...and the powder from hell all over the rims is "normal") They threw in $90 worth parts (pads and a brake sensor) and sent me on my merry way. Immediately I noticed a loosy goosy trashy sound when braking...clicking, and going into drive and I'm getting oscillation and vibration over 60mph from the driver side. Before I drove off, I protested. They didn't want to give me any paperwork, but after standing their with this incredulous look on my face, the saleman at least handed me the parts list. I could tell the car wasn't the same, clicking noise...etc. The co-owner says, "All cars do that, if you take it to a mechanic and you find something wrong with it we'll fix it." He continued, "Remember you have a great extended warranty that kicks in at the end of the month." I go: "Rotors and brakes aren't covered." He insists they are. So out of my pocket again. Just to verify the same darn thing the other mechanics said. Rotors.

I bring it to a fourth place, a specialist in European cars. Great guys, and top-notch (I tried going to New Country Mini of Hartford, but I'll spare you the pain of that visit.) Four shops, all saying the four rotors are bad to the tune of $550-$700 for the repair. He says the oscillating sound is probably an alignment or balance issue. But reasserts, the rotors are gonna squeal soon.

The car primarily is ok, I get this rubbing sound on occasion when lifting off the brake or putting it in drive, and when I turn the corner upon startup...I wanna say there is a foiling sound...like a sword. Otherwise W*** Bros. said the car was fine. (no transmission issues which would have been my guess, but I don't know cars)

So I call the dealer and I told him, look...this car's rotors are gonna start squealing soon according to the last mechanic. I told him that I was still under 60 day warranty and he starts yelling at me: "That's only if the car breaks down!" I responded: "Not according to the State Consumer Affairs Office, that's safety,". He stops talking over and around me; "Well you have to bring it here, if there is anything wrong we'll fix it." I said "fine, we don't have a problem then." But here are my concerns:

1)The noise won't be there and they'll claim there is no problem. Then I go ape shh and lose my cool.
2)This is my 4th time returning. I'm even wondering if it's worth the hassle or if I should just replace the darn things myself. $700 on top of the $200 I have already spent on diagnostics is nothing to sneeze at in the first 30 days of ownership.
3)My car had 42.3K when I bought it. It's a carfax dealership. Aren't they supposed to run it through 100 point inspection prior to sale?
4)Is it ok for them to sell a car with worn rotors or am I being a big baby?
5)I also think because they are a small dealer with only like 50 cars on their lot, I shouldn't raise a stink and think of this as an expensive lesson in car buying.
6)I have been trying to get the car aligned for a month, and can't because I can't get pass the brakes/rotors.
7)I'm thinking about writing the owner a letter, with all my estimates, a copy of the law and an invoice for my missed work. Asking him nicely to fix it and drop it in certified mail. This dealer has lied to me saying they did repairs I caught on inspection and they didn't do them, so now I'm thinking I really don't want to visit their office and get the "Oh you are so difficult" treatment.

Please assist. Thanks in advance.
Newbie MINI Cooper S
Chili Red
2008
43.3K miles
Loving it! (other than the brake and wheel issues

 

I can only speak from my experience which is....When you purchase a used car there is bound to be something wrong with it (hell even new ones have problems now) ...Carfax means nothing, it is a marketing scam! and Dealerships are ....well, out to make money and once you sign the papers its yours! I purchased a 2010 a few months back with 52 000 on the odometer and I also purchased an aftermarket warranty for 4 years but I still had to pay for a walnut shell blast because the valves were gunked up and I am now in the process of replacing shocks and rotors and pads on all corners. These are considered wear items usually so I bought the stuff and am doing it myself. Am I a mechanic....Hell no! I just will not trust anyone to do it and I am cheap! paying the dealership 650 for just the front rotors and pads seems like a lot to me so I will trudge on. These cars are fun little pieces of machinery but they come with a list of things that need to be looked after. Even if this guy does take care of you in the end just take it to the fourth place you mention and have them get familiar with your car . It should have been a good purchase and yes as you say they should stand by their 100 point inspection but there is a line of thinking when purchasing a foreign car and that is pre purchase inspection...done by someone you know usually for 100 smacks and they will find anything questionable before you sign on the dotted line. Most people don't do it but it is recommended because of this sort of thing. Buyer beware is always the attitude one should have when purchasing used. Sorry for your dilemma and sorry it has spoiled what should be a great first ownership experience but you will get through it ...either this guy will step up or you'll take it elsewhere. Good luck and happy motoring!

 

You can't expect a "used car dealer" to cover rotors that you say will start squealing soon. If you currently have brake issues and they gave you a warranty, then they should fix it. Sounds like you either need to get them to give you your money back for the car or move on and find a real mechanic to fix your brakes. It really isn't an expensive job and you might chalk it up to a learning experience. DONT BUY USED CARS, especially MINIS off a used car lot unless you have an iron clad written guarantee from a trusted source.

Agree with above, CARFAX is a marketing scam, means zip. You bought a used car, you need to negotiate worn items upfront with them and that means you need to have an indy mechanic inspect for you if you can't do it yourself. Then you negotiate those items with the dealer. A few bucks upfront can save headaches down the road.

 

I think it best to just be happy with the purchase and look to the future of fun open roads, but first get those brakes and suspension looked at.

Rotors don't have to be that expensive, for example our good friends at ECS carry these... $71.94 for the pair.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2008-C...ors/ES2586572/

...and Brake Pads as low as ... $73.39

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2008-C...ads/ES2153567/

The real key is finding a shop/mechanic you trust to take your car to.

Need to not only check the brakes but the suspension and alignment.

Motor on!

 

the craziest things is how do they know the rotors are going to squeal "soon" are they psychic? lol that seems nuts but all in all there is some great advice before me so I won't say anything else other than don't waste time or money on a car fax

 

I have a 2010 Mayfair S (Limited Edition Hatchback). Hart Brakes sent me 4 brand new drilled and slotted rotors (2 front, 2 rear) for $144.00 including shipping to California....I installed them myself in about 3 hours using the jack that comes with the car in my 1 car garage...have 1,000 miles on them. Took 500 miles for the old used brake pads to seat and quit making funny noises (they had some miles on them (the pads) already. I do have a set of brand new pads ready to install now. I found the "Hart Brakes" rotors on Ebay (free shipping)

 

i got a set similar to those, mine are brake motive, they were about the same price with shipping as well
theyre nice quality
I havent installed mine yet, im lazy and the rotors on the car are not completely shot yet
once the rain stops and i get some jack stands i will swap mine out, i dont trust that little jack that came with the car...

get your tires and balance checked for the vibration, i had a used tire put on my car and it had a horrible vibration at first
i took it to a better tire shop and they said the weights were falling off and werent put on correctly from the last shop

you clicking noises could be the pads moving slightly in the calipers, some brake pad grease should make that stop
check those when you swap out the rotors

i dont know why they say the rotors are going to squeal, these cars have electronic wear sensors so they wont squeal when they wear out
my pads dont even have the wear tabs on them to make the noise

 

General suggestion is if you want quiet brakes....and judging by the op's rant, he does, you stick to PLAIN rotors and decent nonperformance pads....
Slotted rotors usually "whirr"... Drilled can crack...and both wear out the pads faster in most cases, making MORE DUST....
Most performance pads are a bit " harder" and will have a tendensy to squeel when cold, and for the first few thousands miles till they bed....
OEM pads tend to be the WORST as far as dust goes ...
A near dustless option that is a good street pad is Akenoobono euro pads.....not a track or "fast pad, but works for many...best installed on new rotors...
And when you buy a used car, the dealer can only attest to the fact it is OK NOW....
"The rotors are gonna squeel soon " is an attempt to get you to spend your $$ now...
Car ownership, and mini ownership in general is $$$$....performance costs $$....style costs $$, and reliability costs $$....want them all, its gonna cost you $$$$. You bought what you Vought...dealer tossed on a new set of cheap pads....you could upgrade now or wait...IMO rotors are cheap, do them at the same time, especially if they seem to be getting thin or have a ridge on the edge or groves, or if you are **** about noise....

 

I always replace pads and rotors at the same time I did my rear brakes with Bosch pads and I forgot rotors I think textar foster rotors I spent a 100$ and 30 minutes ( sorry I'm a mechanic lol)

 

OK, to everyone who took the time to write. I appreciate it. Here is the verdict. I replaced the rotors out of my own pocket. Total amount of nearly $400 most quotes were high 5s to $700. I got off cheaply because I took it to a not-so-retail mechanic who was actually interested in fixing my car. The reason it was so hard to pin down was this oscillating and vibration on the driver side. I was told it was everything from painted calipers with seizing brakes to worn rotors which it was. For those upset by the fact that I would dare ask the dealer to cover it, because brakes are safety, and this and other pre-inspection items were not fixed as promise before I purchased. I think it's reasonable to assume brakes should work when you spend close to $14K including warranty. Wouldn't you say? I took it back multiple times complaining of the noise and performance. The dealer's solution was to tell me "all foreign cars do that" and put on brake pads, which made matters worse. The dealer wanted to spend $100 instead of $350 ($150 in rotors) That's why the problem persisted. If I knew more about cars, I suppose I would have caught that. After the dealer brow-beat me, I decided not to leave my safety in his hands. I'll submit an invoice for the parts, minus labor. But I'm pretty sure he'll laugh it off. Now the car brakes brake like silk, and firmly...and I would say if feels like a better ride. (I think the rotor was warped or something) I have yet to take it past 60, but that oscillating sound seems gone, and the brakes work without the pedal being loosy goosy or grinding when I lift up off them. Safety first. Thanks again, Motorists.

 

It's so simple, I just loved watching the mechanics doing it.. The torx 50 on the rotor was stripped and they cut it off used a blow-torch. I should have been born a mechanic.

 

That's a great way of looking at it, americo11. I also think you have a great "can-do" spirit. I felt like I should take responsibility and just eat the expense. Now I know. I'm sure cars will be flying the next time I go shopping. Maybe I won't have to look at rotors and brakes. I'm dreaming.

 

Sometimes trying to get a place to "do the right thing" can cost more in time and effort than it is worth....you know what you are dealing with business wise...so watch out if you ever go back. Sounds like a place that sells a hunk of junk, hides issues, then sells a warrenty, and says (like they did), you have a great warrenty at the end of the month to fix stuff...
Watch your $$...sounds like a dealer that tries to make $$ on the sale, the selling if the warrenty, then the fix...the cost, your waller, and your time. Good to hear you calmed down...this stuff can be frustrating....but you used your head, save some $$, and it sounds like you came out ahead!!

 

You might want to have your wheel, hub bearings looked at, it could be a combination of wheel bearings and bad brakes or having the wheels bearings make it look like the brakes are the problem. You might provide some pictures of you brakes with the wheels removed. I think that the comment made by the last mechanic, "rotors are gonna start squealing soon" is a hilarious statement. If had a mechanic working on my Mini and he said that, I'd be like can I have my car back now.

 

+1 on that no way I'd let them look at my car

 

It's tough finding a competent mechanic, when you do find one life is a little easier on your nerves.

 

I know I'm so glad I am ase certified lol sucks doing it for a living but great to know you always have someone you can trust to work on your car ( you )

 

Brakes have nothing to do with alignment or the wheels and tires. What's the rest of the story?

 

I don't know PokeyJoe. I bought the rotors from O'Reilly's and had a friend's mechanic put them on. Total job $360. The reason the two issues became intertwined was because something was off with the ride, and the initial custom tires and rims were aligned and tires balanced and the strangeness continued (I discovered the rims and tires had damage). The dealer installed stocks, and it still continued. After several trips to various shops, the dealer replaced the pads only...but the problem was determined to be with the rotors, and that did affect the ride (above 60mph...didn't catch it on pre-inspaction because I had no need to go that fast) and braking. I bit the bullet and fixed it. I downgraded their review on Yelp and Google, and they called to rectify the matter. I told them to handle parts, which they did to the tune of $150. I noticed a big difference immediately, the brakes were no longer loosey goosey and that annoying oscillating sound left. It drives and handles well. I gave them a better review and everyone is back to their life of quiet discontent. Now...this coolant and knocking issue. It was a little low when it was bought 47 days ago, the mechanic topped it off and now it's down 1/2 inch. Hope that's normal. Also when on the highway and accelerating to pass, there is a hesitation with a brief knocking. Out the rear view, I notice a puff o' smoke after she kicks in. (looks cool) I hope these are normal Cooper peculiarities and I didn't inherit a psycho girlfriend/car.

 

OP you also might want to check out Pelican Parts. I just bought a bunch of parts for my Mini and didn't spend as much as I would at my local chain auto part store. The parts are OEM or at least better aftermarket than some chain auto part stores. I have 2 friends who are mechanics so getting the job done isn't a big issue and I would trust them with my life. Don't get down on your Mini I am sure you will find and fix the issues. They are really great cars and certainly are fun to drive. Just know you can always check in here to get your issues handled. I have found everyone here to be a great help and really nice!


Erik

 

The N14 equipped MCS model do burn oil but not to the point of seeing blue smoke, I burn through 1 quart of oil every 1500-2000 miles. My engine is strong and has excellent compression readings. The knock is probably happening because of the oil entering the combustion chamber, I think it's you oil seals for your valves, you need to do a compression test or better leak down test to see how the the oil is getting in your cylinders.