The temps will actually go below target since the thermostat control is duty cycle based. The Ice Water is a good solution for those running a stock tune or for those running an older tune that doesn't take advantage of lower coolant temp to increase oil viscosity and reduce detonation. For tuned vehicles running this coolant (ie southern climates and on track cars) we raise the targets to 95C to compensate.

When it comes to lowering the coolant temp via tuning, it has proven beneficial enough to me that we include it in all of our calibration files, even the Stage 1.

 

 

 

No the new motor is for Vlad. Well not new it's another JCW motor I picked up with about 30k miles on it. Anyway, Tigger was sold not long after I purchased Vlad. Pretty sure the wife wouldn't go for two project cars at the same time. Gotta keep her happy. She bought me Swift springs for Christmas one year so she's a keeper.

+1 for the poly bushings. Since the front will be off for the engine I plan to do the entire front with poly then. Now that the ethanol content sensor and wideband is installed I ordered everything for the rear with the exception of RSB and lower trailing links bushings. Ordered those from Hotchkis.

 

Gotchya. So you did not snag the GP motor from Allmag Auto Parts. (I was hoping

That story warms my heart. Does she ever drive Vlad? My wife loves to drive Turbo but I get to take over primary driving duties until she can tolerate a proper driving position again. I'm assuming that'll be right after the baby transitions to his own seat

We're thinking wait until our next alignment and go full poly when we install the new suspension. Speaking of supspension... have you had any experience with KW (V1-3) or Greene Performance coilovers? If so, how would you compare them with your öhlins?

 

Nah she can't seem to figure out driving a stick for some reason. So I don't have to share. Hey there's another reason to keep her lol. Congratulations on the little one on the way! May they be healthy and happy. BTW keep that up and you're going to need a Countryman. 😜

I can't remember if it was V1's or V2's. Very high quality build and that Inox coating is the bomb. If longevity is your main concern and you drive on salted roads in the winter I'd probably give the KW's the nod but if your looking for the best performance, the dampening system on the Ohlin's cannot be beat in this price range.

Friend of mine races professionally with a dedicated track car and is also an instructor. He is running V3's right now. He used to have Ohlins and told me he wished he still had them. That was what finally sold me on the Ohlins.

 

Fantastic thread Tiger! Absolutely gut wrenching outcome :( I did a similar one for another vehicle, trying to post as much tech data, measurements, etc. I know it takes a lot of effort and thought, so thank you.

Thanks for the tips on the ECU interface hardware and software! It may end up helping me on another vehicle where the available ECU editing software is missing the ability to adjust certain critical values (Accel enrichment, injector dead time, LFTs, SFTs, cold start enrichment, etc).

I am curious about what's going on with my 2014 R59S automatic. S42 turbo, Wagner comp IC, hard charge/discharge IC plumbing, JB+ (CARB approved version), catless 2.5" DP.

With the stock turbo I was seeing 16-18 PSI on overboost downshifts, tapering at high RPM as is normal for it. After installing the S42, when I roll on the throttle I now see 10 PSI up to 3,600 RPM then it jumps to 13-14 and holds 13-14 to redline, it does this in all gears. It is definitely faster now from 3,600 to redline. When kicking the button for overboost it now jumps to 14 PSI +/- 1PSI and holds it. Seeing 6 degrees of timing until it jumps to 14 PSI, then it tapers to like 2 or so. I can feel that 5,500-6,500 is dead flat HP, it's the feeling of a platue instead of a climbing line on a Dyno plot.

With load based tuning, boost level is a factor of achieving target load, varying boost as necessary based on ambient conditions, as I understand it. Is it possible to have the ECU target a specific pressure instead of a specific load? I'd love to have it hit and hold 1.3 BAR consistently when rolling into it or when I kick the button, and if it tapers up top because it can't make 1.3 at 6,500 I'd preffer that so it's giving all it can safely.

I have an appointment with RPM in February to get it calibrated on a Dyno, so I know it'll be tuned right, but, like you, I want to understand the underlying process when it involves tuning engines.

Is it even possible in the code to setup the sport button for a different boost level e.g. non-sport 1 bar, sport 1.3 bar? If not I can just use an EBC but, than involves swapping to a pressure actuated waste gate instead a vacuum actuated one. If the sport button can do dual boost targets I can avoid the extra modifixations.

Any guess/idea on HP I should get with my setup at 1.3bar on a mustang Dyno?

 

It all turned out well in the end. I learned some lessons the hard way (like when in doubt do it yourself) and ended with an impetus to learn even more. The first thing I would do is measure the wastegate actuator length from the back of the attaching flange to the wastegate arm. That adjustment is critical to proper operation of the turbo. Feel free to PM me a picture of what you have after you get the heatshield off. Use a 6" scale if you have one. On the boost pressure question. No it is not possible to run these ECU's in a boost based mode. ALL of the code is written around load. Load is in essence the amount of air mass entering the engine. It can either be measured directly from the MAF or calulated by the delta between the MAP sensors on either side of the throttle valve if the turbo characteristics are known. The load tables and load limiters are not altered by the JB+ but RPM should do a nice job of getting all that squared away for you. Having said all that yes it is possible to target a specific boost by working through the load tables. The difference however is that if everything is designed around a 1.3 bar target you will not hit 1.3 bar every time. Air temperature, altitude, weather, etc all have an effect on air density which effects air mass and the real target is air mass.

It appears to be possible to alter boost with the sport button but the complexity of the MEVD17 makes it no simple task. It something I'm looking at but requires reverse engineering the code in assembly language, locating and reserving unused memory space, injecting the new code and maps and redirecting the function calls when in sport mode. Ideally, sport mode should also be altered so the last state is remembered after shutdown.

No sure on the RPM tunes but a standard 1.3 bar tune should be good for 25-30 hp with the stock turbo. If the tune is designed around the S42 then approx 40 hp. It also depends on what type of fuel your using. Hopefully you have access to 93 octane for best results. Just remember the 184 hp from the factory was measured at the crank, not the wheels. You loose 12%-14% of that in the drivetrain. Ideally you want a fourth gear pull on the dyno before tuning to see where you were and then afterwards to see where you end up. The final numbers are not as important because it varies from dyno to dyno, even of the same type. What's important is what you safely pick up and that you're grinning like an idiot on the drive home.