R56 Part Number for Timing Chain Tensioner?
#27
I'm thinking about calling Mini also seeing how I also have the cold start problems. In my case it sounds like a diesel truck for about 3 to 5 mins before warming up and running perfect. I try not to drive it until it's fully warm and if I'm in a hurry I won't go above 2500rpm. I'm still under warranty with only 24000 and being an 2007.
#28
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The chain tensioner on my 07 MCS was replaced in September with the repair order # showing as 11-31-7-597-895. I noticed the sound/rattle starting to come back. Is this the latest fix/update? I still have warranty on mine until 70K. I'm gonna have to bring it back. ****!
However, for those of U experienceing a loud rattle when warm, i'd get that system checked out asap. Could be the guides have been compromised, or some other serious issue. my Toyota PU with 272K on the clock started doing this, it got worse, and sure enough the guides were toast and the stretched chain was weariing down the sprocket teeth and slapping against metal. Result: new top end job, and $2K poorer. Still, not so bad with an engine at 272K.
IOW, the tensioner-related Cold Start Rattle is for when the engine is cold, not warmed up.
#29
That seems to be the latest part number (11 31 7 597 895).
That's what mine got 2 weeks ago, and is the same number listed in the Oct edition of the TSB.
http://www.minitis.com/tsb/bulletins...p/M110207g.htm
Now they may have made changes to the same part number I suppose....?
Also - as a side note, there is a different tensioner part number (11 31 7 607 551) listed on the TSB if you are only getting the tensioner (i.e. deflection < 68mm) than the one you get if your measurement is >68mm (new chain, sprocket, bolts, slides, tensioner, etc...)
That's what mine got 2 weeks ago, and is the same number listed in the Oct edition of the TSB.
http://www.minitis.com/tsb/bulletins...p/M110207g.htm
Now they may have made changes to the same part number I suppose....?
Also - as a side note, there is a different tensioner part number (11 31 7 607 551) listed on the TSB if you are only getting the tensioner (i.e. deflection < 68mm) than the one you get if your measurement is >68mm (new chain, sprocket, bolts, slides, tensioner, etc...)
#30
Important to remember that the redesigned tensioner released in June 2010 is the one that must be used. I dont have my service order in front of me, but I'll look it up when I get home. I had my 3rd tensioner installed in August with the dealer using the redesigned part, and have had NO issues since, even on near-zero mornings as of late. seems the redesign did the trick.
However, for those of U experienceing a loud rattle when warm, i'd get that system checked out asap. Could be the guides have been compromised, or some other serious issue. my Toyota PU with 272K on the clock started doing this, it got worse, and sure enough the guides were toast and the stretched chain was weariing down the sprocket teeth and slapping against metal. Result: new top end job, and $2K poorer. Still, not so bad with an engine at 272K.
IOW, the tensioner-related Cold Start Rattle is for when the engine is cold, not warmed up.
However, for those of U experienceing a loud rattle when warm, i'd get that system checked out asap. Could be the guides have been compromised, or some other serious issue. my Toyota PU with 272K on the clock started doing this, it got worse, and sure enough the guides were toast and the stretched chain was weariing down the sprocket teeth and slapping against metal. Result: new top end job, and $2K poorer. Still, not so bad with an engine at 272K.
IOW, the tensioner-related Cold Start Rattle is for when the engine is cold, not warmed up.
#31
Ok I'm going in next Wed to drop off my mini to the dealer. Before the noise was only during cold starts but I'm noticing a weird almost grinding or high vibration coming from the engine when letting off the gas real fast during shifts or just to start slowing down. Also if I keep a steady 3500-4000rpm it's very noticeable and doesn't sound good at all. It's not coming from the transmission I believe it's just the time chain tensioner has to much slack and is hitting or rubbing against the housing when there is pressure put on the chain.
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