There's actually two fill plugs on top when I opened both up it allowed air to come in, So when I filled the other it went in pretty fast. I guess it all depends on the preferred method. The other one is more toward the back of the car on a slight angle. About 5 -6 inches a part. You could probably use the pump tool from the top as well as the bottom.

 

I'm trying to change the fluid in my 07 MC. I have followed clutchless' instructions as described in this thread, but I may have missed something.

1. Had the front of the car up on ramps. took out drain pan plug.
2. got out approximate 2.5 quarts.
3. removed standpipe, got an additional .75 quart.
4. leveled car with jack stands, replaced the standpipe back into pan.
5. screwed in VW vas tool in bottom of pan.
6. proceeded to pump in 3.25 quarts into bottom of pan thru VW tool.
7. 2.75 quarts decided to drain back out.

Can anyone tell me where I went wrong.

 

You cannot fill all of it back in thru the drain pipe. Make sure you did not damage it. The stand pipe only permits a certain fluid level, ie: about 2.0 quarts. Not sure why that much fluid drained out, that never happened to me. To insert more fluid you have to bypass the standpipe by filling from the top. It is a slow process but may be your only remaining option.

Someone in a prior post had luck with filling it all from the bottom and then really quickly screwing in the pan bolt before much fluid drained out.

 

Thanks, I'll try doing that when I get home tonight.

Damage what? The standpipe.

 

It appears to me the only way for that much fluid to leak out with the standpipe in place is if the standpipe broke or cracked. It is plastic and does not need much torque when screwing it back in place.

 

Question regarding the crush washer. Do I need to replace the washer each time I do a partial drain fill. Or can I use the original on the first two fills, and replace it on the last fill.

 

Save the new crush washer for the final fill.

 

I want to thank everyone on here for all the information especially clutchless for the awesome write up(pdf). I came upon this thread unintentionally as I was forced to seek help after I accidently removed the wrong drain plug when doing my oil change. I didn't realize what I had done until I checked if the oil had stopped dripping and noticed the red coloration. At that point I knew had just turned a simple job into a nightmare. I have no way of knowing how much oil drained out as it mixed with engine oil in the jug from a previous change. I didn't remove the stand pipe, until I read through the thread I didn't know one was in there. Also, when I drained the oil I had turned the car on for less than a minute to drive it up onto two ramps. The pan was warm to the touch, but not hot.




I'm fairly confident I can access the fill plug, but I would appreciate any advice on how to approach this.
Should I try to add some(i don't know how much) from the fill plug?
With a cold engine?
Jacked up or even surface?
How would I know if I added the correct amount?


Any help you can offer this dumb mini owner would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

fastestflash - I am a little confused by your statement regarding the position of the car when you drained the ATF. I think you meant it was on ramps when you drained it.
You probably drained around 2 quarts. It would be best if you removed the standpipe. Then you know you need to add 2.5 quarts. You might as well since you have to add it back in anyway and adding another pint is not more difficult.

Bottom line - you need to add more fluid thru the difficult to access fill plug. Do it with the engine cold.

You cannot accurately add enough more thru the drain plug, it will just mostly drain out right after you put it in.

At this point I would not start the car again or drive it until more fluid was added to the transmission. You need to do this cold as it is too difficult to access the fill plug on a hot engine. You need the tools described in the PDF to remove the fill plug, plus a funnel with a flexible tube.
Get some Toyota type IV ATF or better yet, some synthetic, one of the types mentioned in this thread, ie: Royal Purple, Castrol full synthetic TRANSMAX IMPORT MULTI–VEHICLE, Redline D4, etc as long as it says Toyota type IV or JWS-3309 compatible.

 

Yes the front wheels where up on ramps. It didn't seem like 2 quarts drained out from looking at the flow, but you're right about it probably being easier to just remove the stand pipe and letting the rest of the ATF drain out. That way I don't have to guess how much to add. I have everything except the socket cap which I will go buy today and the oil which I believe my local auto part store carries.


Car will be cold, makes sense, didn't think about how tight it will be and the potential to burn myself. Does the ATF I'm adding need to be warmed up to appropriate temperature?

 

You do not need to warm up the ATF. You said the car had hardly been run. The fluid expands when warm. So 2 quarts warm may be a couple ounces less when colder. I think 2.5 quarts total is about all most people were able to drain when the standpipe was removed. That is the amount I would pour back in.

 

The tool that I made included a valve to fill from underneath. I filled from under the car, shut the valve, and started the car. after a minute or two to warm up, I then removed the fill hose and cracked open the valve. When I didn't get any fluid out, I added a bit more and rechecked until I got the steady trickle that is described above. Then I knew I was at about the right level. I shut off the car, removed the fill tool, and reinstalled the plug.

IIRC the drain plug is 6 mm x 1.0, and I found an adapter at McMaster.com.

Have fun,
Mike

 

Well, i had a couple of hours today to try and get this done and what a disaster this has turned into. Now I have to buy new antifreeze, hahaha. In my haste to reach the fill plug(t55 bolt) I managed to disconnect a hose and all the antifreeze spilled out.
On the plus side I did manage to remove and install the stand pipe without incident although I had to use a T30 socket not an Allen key to remove the drain plug and stand pipe. I placed a pan to collect the oil to later measure how much came out after removing the pipe, but unfortunately antifreeze also made its way into the pan.
I didn't have enough time to start filling it today, but I definitely learned my lesson about rushing especially going on to the next part(filling) as I want to avoid spilling anything else. I know everyone's been draining about 2.5 quarts, but is it consistent for all the model years? I have a 2009 mini cooper s. As for the ATF I found some Valvoline full synthetic from my local auto parts store. It was the only ATF they had with the JWS-3309 printed on the bottle $6.43/quart. Also, I might have to search another thread for this, but does anyone know what kind of antifreeze the minis use? Mine was green in color.


Added the ATF this afternoon from the fill plug. First quart was messy as I tried to figure out just how much I could get away with pouring without it overflowing. For the second quart I put on my thinking cap and came up with poking a small hole in the cap of the quart of oil and hung it upside down from the hood letting it pour into the funnel. I stayed there the whole time to make sure nothing spilled or fell over, but at least it was a steady stream of oil pouring in that didn't cause it to overflow and it went much quicker without the mess. I added 2 quarts and 20oz to account for spillage, but I know I have to check the level per cluthless PDF. My mini is lowered so I'm going to have to figure out a way to keep it level, but give me enough room to get underneath and check the flow and temperature. My only concern is with step 4 of checking your level. Clutchless you say to remove the drain plug and "if fluid drains, let it drain until it stops and proceed to next step." However, this is confusing to me because this is exactly what I did by accident which is why I'm here now. The only difference being is that this time the car would be leveled and not on the jack/ramp. Cluthless, wouldn't that step put me back to square one?

 

Just for what it's worth I did this today all from under the car using the VW fill tool. I let it drain cold and 2 quarts 4 ounces came out. I had a pre-marked drain container to let me know exactly what came out. Using the VW tool and a small hand pump I pumped back out 2 quarts 6 ounces of new ATF fluid. The extra was to account for the 'line fill' in the pump. I quickly removed the VW tool and promptly put the drain plug back in, with a new crush washer.

All good there, exactly what came out went back in and the car drives great.

In hindsight I may not have needed to do this as soon as I did. I have a 2012 Justa with 47,000 miles and most of them are highway from my commute. The fluid I did take out was not nearly as 'cooked' as some others have reported. I'm still glad I did this now as my daughter has a 2010 VW that's due for the same job soon so now I know the routine.

 

Before I order this, does this go where the filler plug (the top in the engine) or does this go where the Pan Drain Bolt (the bottom where the oil pan) is is on a R56 2009 Mini?

I guess the bottom, then I'd use a pump to pump new ATF Mobil 1 3309 oil back in. I'd rather do that instead of a funneling it through the top filler plug just in case I do cause more mess and havoc ATF all over the engine .

Is it compatible? Great write up Clutchless!

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool...SM-ATF105.html

 

I don't know if this thread is still active, but I had a quick question that doesn't seem to be addressed.

In the PDF it says to leave the drain plug out. Then fill the transmission until the fluid comes out the sand pipe. Then start the car. warm up the car to 35-45 C....

I was under the understanding that ATF fluid should be checked when the car is at normal operating temps. That being said, if you leave the drain plug out and fill the transmission to top of sand pipe with transmission cold, by my understanding the transmission should be about 2 quarts low.....

I currently dropped the fluid in my 2007 MCS and had a leak prior to the fluid change. for some reason, the plug was loose... but since I don't know how much fluid was actually drained out of the transmission I don't know how much to put back in.... I have refilled the transmission with about 3.5 quarts, checked the drain pipe with the car running(exterior temp is about 100 degrees F), and still not getting any fluid out of the drain plug.

Am I reading this thread right or am i overlooking a small detail?

 

When you run the engine, the fluid is pumped into the transmission, filling all of the internal passages. With the engine running, and trans at temperature, you should barely get a dribble of fluid out of the drain plug (stand pipe in place). If you are not getting any fluid out of the drain with the engine at temperature and running, you need more fluid in the transmission.

When you shut off the engine, the fluid will drain back down into the pan, and flow out of the drain plug.

What this means is that you need the drain plug (and stand pipe) in place when filling and starting the car. Get the trans up to temperature, then pull out the drain plug. If you are not getting any fluid out, put the plug back in, shut off the engine, and add more fluid.

I hope that helps.

Mike

 

vudude101, the VW tool screws into the bottom into the drain plug hole so you can pump fluid up into the tranny oil pan. You have to be fast when unhooking it so you do not lose much fluid. Hope this helps. I do not monitor this forum much anymore since I sold the MINI.

 

Thanks much, I used the measure and replace method but was wondering to verify the level.
On A Side Note: I think you can get both the trans and coolant temps from the hidden data menu. (tachometer data menu)

 

Anyone have change the automatic transmission filter, how to remove the pan?

 

There is one bolt on the pan that is hidden by the subframe, other than that it is straight forward. The gasket is reusable.


I'm guessing that you are supposed to drop the subframe to get to the bolt, but I drilled a hole for access.


Mike

 

Yes, that is the problem i am facing how to get access to that bolt.

 

I'm sure that the proper method is to unbolt the subframe from under the car and bumper (leave the rear most bolts in place so that it pivots down). You may need to unbolt the lower engine mount as well. The subframe probably won't move too much with the rack attached, but you may be able to get an inch or two of clearance for the bolt.


The engine and trans are supported by the chassis, not the subframe.


You get quite a bit more fluid out of the system by dropping the pan and filter. Plus you get to inspect and clean the pan, which is worth doing at least once.


Have fun,
Mike




Mike

 

What are the parts need to be change beside the filter and how many liter of ATF oil needed? After changing need to reset anything?

 

I would get 5 liters of fluid. Make sure that you understand how to fill and check the level before you start, it is not simple like most cars.

Mike