You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Hello.. This is my first post here. My dad just bought a Pepper White/Black MCS about 4 weeks ago...I bought him bonnet stripes for father's day, and I am trying to see what method people suggest for applying them.
Any help would be appreciated.
I've installed body kits, spoilers, and other mods to my own car, but never have done graphics...since this is my first time trying graphics, I'm thinking the wet method, since I can adjust the stripes.
I second dneal's advice - Wet Application ONLY! Dry will end in tears. Although an "official" application agent is preferred, a diluted soapy solution (like mild dishwashing liquid) works just as well and is how mine were applied. Be sure to have a proper squeegie though (3M makes them and they cost under a $1).
Awesome...thanks for the replies. I guess wet it is then.
BTW, I'm sort of "sharing" this car with him.. i must admit, a few years back when I saw it, I said to myself "why would someone buy that car" but after driving it, I can see why! I LOVE IT!!
Wet allows for much more working time, squeege light at first and then harder to push the water out to the sides of the graphic, always allow time for the water to get out before removing paper protective cover. If you try to remove the paper with alot of water under the vinyl still the tape will wrinkle a the edges or shift around which could cause problems.
A few drops of "joy" dish soap in a spray bottle of water will allow the graphic to slide while you are positioning it. Spray the hood and the graphic as you remove the backing.
Hey before you start clean the hood really good with water and then alcohol, like rubbing alcohol, that will remove any wax and give good adheasion.
The front of the hood where it bends down to the grill is the hardest part, if it wants to crease there at all, then just pick it back up a little bit up the hood and lay it down useing the squeege going down the middle of the graphic and then work it out to the edges.
You can do it, it's not that hard.
Blake
__________________ 06 MCS Hyper Blue/White Top -- let's rock!
Dry method you only have approx 30 seconds then abrasions occur, so if you don't think you can get the job done in 30 seconds then the wet method gives you more time but you may need a nap after the wet method
__________________
2006 MCS JCW #20/64 Competiton Edition (Canada's version of the GP but only 64), JCW Suspension, JCW Brakes, JCW Body kit, JCW Engine & exhaust with JCW header, ITG Filter, Brisk Plugs, RMW Tuned @ 196WHP, JCW CF dash, shifter and ebrake handle. English Panther Leather, full load, JCW R112 Challenge wheels summer and R98 webspokes winter {sig pic by COOPERation}
Last edited by #20Works4me; 06-21-2007 at 02:15 PM.
I picked up my MC Nightfire Red/Blk last wed and that night my wife and my daughter helped me put the stripes on. While I was at the dealer I saw a tech appliing a set using the dry method, looked easy, lol. I tried it dry, bad idea. Went to the wet method, big difference in quality of finished product. I used black stripes and added my own cream edge stripes to match the cream colorline in the interior.By the end of the install my 15 year old daughter was installing the last boot stripe by herself. The car looks fantastic, everyone we show cant believe we did the stripes ourselves, for 55 bucks or so. Go for it.
arnbut: i purchased the oem stripes from the morristown mini website.
i applied the stripes wet yesterday, and it was pretty simple! i do have a few small bubbles that will hopefully disappear within the next few days. has anyone had that issue?
If you have small (1-3mm) bubbles and theres not too many of them, they'll probably set up in the sun after a few days. High, hot sun does wonders to tighten it all up. If they're bigger than this, you might want to penetrate them with the tip of a needle (don't use a pin; they're too fat). Don't drive the needle into the bubble; penetrate only with the point at the edge of the bubble. Resist the urge to push it down; let the sun take care of that. Check after a couple of hot days and you'll be pressed to find the defect.