Another p0015 code issue
#1
08-05-2015, 09:25 PM
Another p0015 code issue
I've been getting a p0015 code ("B" Camshaft position-timing over-retarded (bank 1)) for several months. I have not been having drivability issues, so I'm not sure that I believe that the cam timing is really off. Occasionally there is a hiccup or pause in acceleration at low rpm, always I think when cold, but this is fairly rare. Could this be a) a timing chain issue, or b) a cam position sensor, rather than a VANOS problem? Any diagnostic suggestions? It seems to me that if the exhaust camshaft was really permanently set for high rpm, there would be more problems starting or accelerating.
2009 Mini Clubman, by the way.
Thanks!
2009 Mini Clubman, by the way.
Thanks!
#2
05-25-2017, 09:30 AM
2nd Gear
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4303758
Check your timing chain guide. My car threw the code after the plastic guide part broke off and fell down by the crankshaft. Car still ran. The relative timing between the intake and exhaust camshaft changes without the plastic slide in position. It causes the intake cam to retard relative to the exhaust cam.
Check your timing chain guide. My car threw the code after the plastic guide part broke off and fell down by the crankshaft. Car still ran. The relative timing between the intake and exhaust camshaft changes without the plastic slide in position. It causes the intake cam to retard relative to the exhaust cam.
#3
04-29-2018, 07:19 AM
I’m trying to address the exact same issue. Like you the engine runs really smooth and rarely if ever do I hear any real rattling of the timing chain. I have a 2009 MC at 93000 kms.
I’m trying to avoid a $2500cdn timing chain replacement so I’m replacing easier things to see if they resolve the problem.
Yesterday I did new spark plugs and coils and cleaned the front exhaust Vanos solenoid.
the new plugs made it run way smoother so that’s probably worth doing in any event and was super easy to do if you have the socket and a wrench extension.
Within about 20km P0015 came back.
The solenoid has some brown varnishing on it so it’s possible it’s beyond cleaning.
I have two new solenoids coming this week and will install one or both next weekend. I will let you know how that goes.
I also have the timing chain tensioner for stretched chains that I will try if the solenoid replacement does nothing.
Other than that damn CEL coming on, it’s running perfectly.
I’m trying to avoid a $2500cdn timing chain replacement so I’m replacing easier things to see if they resolve the problem.
Yesterday I did new spark plugs and coils and cleaned the front exhaust Vanos solenoid.
the new plugs made it run way smoother so that’s probably worth doing in any event and was super easy to do if you have the socket and a wrench extension.
Within about 20km P0015 came back.
The solenoid has some brown varnishing on it so it’s possible it’s beyond cleaning.
I have two new solenoids coming this week and will install one or both next weekend. I will let you know how that goes.
I also have the timing chain tensioner for stretched chains that I will try if the solenoid replacement does nothing.
Other than that damn CEL coming on, it’s running perfectly.
#5
07-01-2018, 05:51 PM
I have a 2007 Mini R52 which has been having the same issues as posted above. Starts and runs until it is warm, and then it runs rough, idles down looses power and becomes impossible to drive without dying. It has thrown P0014 and P0015 codes. I have replaced the both VANOS solenoids, both cam shaft sensors, new spark plugs (Bosch iR) and an oil change and still have the same issues, but it will now idle better. I doubt it could be a timing chain jump, because it idles so well while warming up, and if you hold down the throttle slightly, it will continue to run.
could it be a fuel flow issue? My next step is to change the fuel filter and clean the injectors. Any other suggestions?
could it be a fuel flow issue? My next step is to change the fuel filter and clean the injectors. Any other suggestions?
#6
07-01-2018, 05:52 PM
I have a 2007 Mini R52 which has been having the same issues as posted above. Starts and runs until it is warm, and then it runs rough, idles down looses power and becomes impossible to drive without dying. It has thrown P0014 and P0015 codes. I have replaced the both VANOS solenoids, both cam shaft sensors, new spark plugs (Bosch iR) and an oil change and still have the same issues, but it will now idle better. I doubt it could be a timing chain jump, because it idles so we’ll while warming up, and if you hold down the throttle slightly, it will continue to run.
could it be a fuel flow issue? My next step is to change the fuel filter and clean the injectors. Any other suggestions?
could it be a fuel flow issue? My next step is to change the fuel filter and clean the injectors. Any other suggestions?
#7
07-01-2018, 09:35 PM
I have a 2007 Mini R52 which has been having the same issues as posted above. Starts and runs until it is warm, and then it runs rough, idles down looses power and becomes impossible to drive without dying. It has thrown P0014 and P0015 codes. I have replaced the both VANOS solenoids, both cam shaft sensors, new spark plugs (Bosch iR) and an oil change and still have the same issues, but it will now idle better. I doubt it could be a timing chain jump, because it idles so we’ll while warming up, and if you hold down the throttle slightly, it will continue to run.
could it be a fuel flow issue? My next step is to change the fuel filter and clean the injectors. Any other suggestions?
could it be a fuel flow issue? My next step is to change the fuel filter and clean the injectors. Any other suggestions?
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#8
07-01-2018, 10:03 PM
#9
07-01-2018, 10:04 PM
#10
07-01-2018, 11:34 PM
#11
10-10-2018, 03:46 AM
I just took my 2012 S that has 30,000 miles to have the HPFP changed under the extended warranty and the SA informed me that the timing chain tensioner needs to be replaced for $400, otherwise I'm looking at thousands if it breaks.
I obviously never knew this was an issue with these cars until now. Does this price for the repair seem reasonable or should I take it my indie mechanic?
Before telling this news, he told me I had an old plastic water pump and he would replace it for "free" before my warranty runs out in a month, why would he offer me this? I found it weird that he would offer me a water pump replacement while at the same time tell me about the tensioner.
I read all the complaints and not much about the cost of just getting the tensioner replaced.
I obviously never knew this was an issue with these cars until now. Does this price for the repair seem reasonable or should I take it my indie mechanic?
Before telling this news, he told me I had an old plastic water pump and he would replace it for "free" before my warranty runs out in a month, why would he offer me this? I found it weird that he would offer me a water pump replacement while at the same time tell me about the tensioner.
I read all the complaints and not much about the cost of just getting the tensioner replaced.
#12
10-10-2018, 07:32 AM
I just took my 2012 S that has 30,000 miles to have the HPFP changed under the extended warranty and the SA informed me that the timing chain tensioner needs to be replaced for $400, otherwise I'm looking at thousands if it breaks.
I obviously never knew this was an issue with these cars until now. Does this price for the repair seem reasonable or should I take it my indie mechanic?
Before telling this news, he told me I had an old plastic water pump and he would replace it for "free" before my warranty runs out in a month, why would he offer me this? I found it weird that he would offer me a water pump replacement while at the same time tell me about the tensioner.
I read all the complaints and not much about the cost of just getting the tensioner replaced.
I obviously never knew this was an issue with these cars until now. Does this price for the repair seem reasonable or should I take it my indie mechanic?
Before telling this news, he told me I had an old plastic water pump and he would replace it for "free" before my warranty runs out in a month, why would he offer me this? I found it weird that he would offer me a water pump replacement while at the same time tell me about the tensioner.
I read all the complaints and not much about the cost of just getting the tensioner replaced.
#13
10-10-2018, 08:17 AM
The only fault code I got was P15DF, which was for the HPFP and prompted me to bring to the dealership in the first place.
I called my local Mini mechanic and he said the tensioner doesn't typically start to cause problems until you get up in miles, like near 100K. Also, he quoted me at half the price to replace the part. I'm going to bring it to him and for less than an hours labor he'll take the head cover off and measure and inspect where the tensioner is at.
I called my local Mini mechanic and he said the tensioner doesn't typically start to cause problems until you get up in miles, like near 100K. Also, he quoted me at half the price to replace the part. I'm going to bring it to him and for less than an hours labor he'll take the head cover off and measure and inspect where the tensioner is at.
#14
02-10-2019, 09:25 PM
Are the cheap cam timing kit ok from eBay? I ordered one from them but the flywheel locking pin wouldn't fit. I am wondering if the much more expensive cam timing kit is the one I should go with.... $280 is a lot of money to spend on one single tool. So want to see if anyone has the same experience with the more affordable alternatives from eBay / Amazon.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#15
02-11-2019, 08:47 AM
2nd Gear
Are the cheap cam timing kit ok from eBay? I ordered one from them but the flywheel locking pin wouldn't fit. I am wondering if the much more expensive cam timing kit is the one I should go with.... $280 is a lot of money to spend on one single tool. So want to see if anyone has the same experience with the more affordable alternatives from eBay / Amazon.
Thanks.
Thanks.
You may want to hand sand if the handle is solid.
#16
02-24-2019, 08:38 AM
Thank you @Tim McCreary ,
I will give it a try today to sand it down so it will fit. Another question here. Does it matter which way I turn the engine when I try to get the camshaft to align? Facing the crank pully, should I crank clockwise or anti-clockwise?
I will give it a try today to sand it down so it will fit. Another question here. Does it matter which way I turn the engine when I try to get the camshaft to align? Facing the crank pully, should I crank clockwise or anti-clockwise?
#17
02-24-2019, 11:03 AM
2nd Gear
#18
02-24-2019, 12:18 PM
That's what I am worried about. I had the mini in service position where the front are pulled further out and the valve covered off (for more than a week now.... covered with cloths to keep dust away). From what I can find, looks like it runs counter clockwise when looking at the crank pull from the passenger side.
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...6135230AAwx3CS Will see if the Bentley manual mention anything there.
CORRECTION:
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...6135230AAwx3CS Will see if the Bentley manual mention anything there.
CORRECTION:
20190316 - Found in Bentley manual page 117-14 that it should be rotated clockwise.
Last edited by jli0022; 03-16-2019 at 11:26 PM.
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