I'll start with this... Most of what I'm about to say likely applies to all Gen2 N14 motors...

Hi,

Haven't been here in a while... I'm a happy (mostly) owner of an 2010 R55 Clubman S. Last year I installed Miltek non-resonated exhaust on the car, and up until recently, it was the only "performance" mod on the car. I don't think it did anything except make the car louder (if I were to do it again, I'd spend another $100 and get the 'resonated' version as the non-resonated drones a bit over 2800 RPM).

At the end of last year, I started acquiring additional bits to make my Mini faster. I was looking for bolt on items (with at least one CARB certified), and landed on the following (some aren't specifically speed related, but I'm doing it all at once, so you can hear about them here). My build list and expectations:

Tasks:
Install new Forge Intercooler (biggest job)
Install NM CAI (CARB certified)
Install NM Turbo Charge Pipe (should be done in concert with CAI)
Install NM Turbo Discharge Pipe (should be done in concert with Intercooler)
Install Cravenspeed Koala Intake runner extension (should be done in concert with CAI)
Install Alta Blow off Valve (should be done in concert with the Discharge Pipe)
Install BSH Direct Dual Boost Tap - carbon build up on intake parts is a real problem (intake cleaned twice in 43K miles)
Install BSH Oil Catch Can
Install NM Front Strut bar
VR Tune for all the parts listed above (they supposedly tuned out any potential CELs for when I upgrade to Miltek's downpipe/CAT

Why am I doing this? I've always wondered if these add-ons really added any performance, and since I'm dyno'ng the car three times, I figured I'd give you all a nice public service to answer the same questions for yourself.

Dyno 1 - Miltek only
Dyno 2 - Will get it Dyno'd a few days after HW installs (expect 20-25 HP)
Dyno 3 - Will install SW flash and dyno a third time after a few days on new SW (expect an additional 25-30 HP)

Attached, please find the results for the first dyno. Three runs
best HP = 148
best Torque = 162

About expected based on Mini's claim of ~180 at the crank.

I've already done the installs (next post), and will dyno it again this weekend.

Stay tuned!

 

The installs took much longer than expected, and I needed to do it over two weekends which were a month apart.

During every car project, there is what I call the '1.5 hour bolt'. It's that damn nut/bolt that is right there... you can see it, but you have no idea how you're going to get it off - let alone back on. This project had 2 of those, and one of them was a 3 hour bolt!

First day, installed:
Forge Intercooler (biggest job)
Install NM Turbo Discharge Pipe (should be done in concert with Intercooler)
Install Alta Blow off Valve (should be done in concert with the Discharge Pipe)

Nine parts and only three installed

We started with the IC. This means take off the bumper and wheels. Did you know that your Mini is put together with the equivalent of paper clips? Yeah, the panels are all plastic and held together with cheap plastic tabs. Be careful if you do this yourself. On the PDF, note how the tab of the top of the IC doesn't mate with the front of the bumper as Forge indicates in their install instructions. Fits anyway...

Next was the turbo discharge pipe. This had the 3 hour bolt. In the PDF image, you can see the bolt hole. It attaches on the middle of the fan shroud and is nearly impossible to get to. I would not do this again, nor would I recommend installing any similar piece as no manufacturer makes any power claims from this ("eliminates an OEM power-robbing muffler". After the install, I did hear a bit more intake noises because of this (NM pipe has no silencer), but they weren't cool enough to warrant the pain in the a$$ this thing caused.

I also installed the Alta BOV spring. Its supposed to help maintain boost between gear changes - esp. in automatic car (like mine). No idea if this helps, but I did get in there and see that it was pretty clean.

I had intended to install the remaining items, but that 3 hour bolt got in the way. Buttoned it all back up. I have to say, all the manufacturers provided very nice install guides. The plastic tabs holding the front of the car together are a bit jenky, but seems solid as a unit (like Lego).

Driving impressions:
Prior to the install, the car had been at the dealer for service. I was getting intermittent CELs, the traction control warning light would illuminate at odd times, and I had lost power and mileage was crap.

CELs caused by high pressure fuel pump issues (also probably by pre-cat O2 sensor which I had previously replaced - I think it was fouled by the intake issues), and also carbon build-up in the intake - walnut blasting required - 2nd time in 43K miles. They also re-flashed the CPU to "eliminate" future need for walnut blasting. I call BS on that one.

Traction control warning caused by low brake fluid warning sensor - that makes sense right? Why not have a brake warning?

Anyway, after I got my car back, (I had an N18 based S as a loaner while the car was in the shop), it was meh performance wise compared to the newer N18. I let the SW settle for a week, and my car still didn't feel like it had any guts. Part throttle and full throttle were the same. Car was mildly torquey up to about 2000rpm, but between 2000-3500, it was flat and unresponsive (like my 07 Civic). Mileage improved again to ~27mpg from 23 in mixed driving (using math not computer).

After the day 1 installs, the car felt exactly the same. A bit more intake noises from the discharge muffler delete, but no extra zoom according to the butt dyno.

I got busy during the next month and couldn't complete the HW installs until a few days ago...

 

Finished the HW installs last weekend.

Tasks:
Install NM CAI (CARB certified)
Install NM Turbo Charge Pipe (should be done in concert with CAI)
Install Cravenspeed Koala Intake runner extension (should be done in concert with CAI)
Install BSH Direct Dual Boost Tap
Install BSH Oil Catch Can
Install NM Front Strut bar

I have a few pics, but none of the final install, but I'll edit later with the finishing touches. Nothing too exciting that you can't already see on the vendors websites.

Started by disassembling the intake box as the Koala, CAI, and Charge pipe all require access to the passenger side of the firewall and the OE intake box is in the way. The air box comes off easily.

The Charge pipe wasn't too bad. It replaces the OE pipe which has a secondary silencer pipe that runs into the firewall. It vents to the firewall and doesn't do anything else as far as I can. 1lb weight savings

The Koala web site states it installs in 10 minutes... except for that 1.5 hour bolt! In the image, you can see a rod which connects the intake manifold to some point under the block (no idea what's under there - tranny and axels in the way). The red bolt was "visible from under the car" if you spin your head around like an owl and feed your hand thru an open area near the passenger stut, up around the axel and into uncomfortable land. Took a while and lot of jiggling. You can't install the Koala with it attached, and it will not go back on with the Koala installed. The rod is still there and doesn't move, so I guess its ok. Cravenspeed claims a 10HP increase from this (we'll find out this weekend). It is a nice piece of aluminum craftsmanship - maybe they should anodize it blue. They also sell a spacer to help with OE intake installs which I didn't think I'd need, however, I wanted to mount the Catch Can on the fire wall (catch can pics courtesy of BSH install guide), but since the Koala is ~1" long, it slightly rotated and pushed the soon to be installed CAI to the drivers side making the mount not usable. More on that later.

Next came the CAI. Fairly easy to install using the OE box mounting points (on the intake manifold which is now closer to the firewall). NM provides a bracket that allows you to retain the OE location of brake booster line and OE fresh air pipe (which is nice to have because it will bring cool air from outside the car to the back of the engine bay for the CAI). After buttoning it all back up I realized that I didn't have a mount location for the Catch Can. As such, Catch Can and Boost Tap not installed - but they don't affect performance anyway. I will likely remove the fresh air tube (other CAI makers recommend removal as well) soon.

If you've installed a CC and plug on the passenger side, please PM me as I have a few questions.

Last we installed the tower brace. Easy job, looks nice too. Goes much faster now

One thing to note. While working, we dropped a nut behind the engine, and it didn't fall thru. I probed around a bit with my magnetic reach tool, bumped into something behind the engine and it arc'd to the tool. No idea what I hit (starter?), and no idea what was carrying unprotected voltage. Anyone have a suggestion? Scared the crap out of us.

Buttoned it all back up. Car fired right up. Sounds the same as before. The Miltek drowns out most of the intake noises from inside the cabin. You can hear the intake a bit from outside, but who drives from there right?

Initially, didn't notice any difference with the butt dyno. Next day, car felt a bit peppier. The flat response in the mid range was lessed (still not impressive), but part to full throttle changes did make a difference which is a perceived improvement. Car seems more alive than before.

Real dyno this weekend with results to follow soon after. I'll also flash the CPU next week and dyno a third time.

 

Was driving a bit more last night. Noticed some additional intake noises.

Can hear the BOV at higher RPMs (>3500) during throttle lift and gear changes - not high pitched Fast n Furious pppffssst - more like a warbly fart.

I can hear intake whistling between 2500-3500 RPM. Sounds a bit like air rushing over a leak in the sunroof.

Some additional pics as well. Sorry so dark. Taken at night with cell phone flash...

 

Following. Wonder about the koala.

 

Today wasn't such a good day.

Got to the dyno shop. Hooked everything up (post intake install).

Do a couple runs. HP ~ 125, Torque ~ 115

That's not right. Drop of ~25HP and ~45lbft. Butt dyno doesn't agree that the car is down any power. We do a couple more, and the dyno throws very consistent numbers (Mustang II). I re-iterate with my guy all the things we changed, and his only suggestion was that maybe the flow across the bigger IC is causing the numbers to drop

I did get a new CEL code, P2882 - Wastegate valve min, what is that? Clear it, and it pops each dyno run. No CELs prior to the dyno.

Maybe if we flash the VR Tune, things will go back. Clear all the CELs and flash the VR Tune (4 min). I get 3 more HP. Keep running it, and dyno is consistent. Pull it off the dyno, check the codes again and see:

U114/5b - lost control with engine control torque 1/3 - what the hell does that mean?

Again, the car doesn't feel like its down any power. These mods allowed VR to adjust the tune more agressive, so I shouldn't have seen less than a 25HP/30lbft gain (from original). It doesn't feel like its gained 25HP, but it doesn't feel down either.

Had a busy day, so I couldn't see if the trouble codes came back (without throwing a CEL), so if I have time, I'll check tomorrow.

I do recall during day 1 install that when we put the BOV back together I sorta stripped the head of one of the mounting bolts. Maybe its got a small leak. I'll look at it again too.

Anyone have any ideas? I've asked the dyno guy to run a baseline on another known car. He should do that on Monday. As far as I know the Mustang Dyno is solid and doesn't have any settings that can be screwed up, but I need to rule out that variable before I rip everything apart again.

Stay tuned.

 

Following As I'll be headed down the same road soon.... Maybe.

 

Thanks. It will be interesting to hear what you find.

Apologies to the rest of you who are following. Its been a busy couple weeks and I haven't had a chance to tinker with the car. It runs, there are currently no CELs, but there might be some hidden codes that I'll check out as soon as I can bring the laptop and VR's reader down to the car. Some of these codes only show on the VR reader.

As I mentioned before, the car seems to run well and is a peppy when cold, but looses breath as it warms up. Almost seems like the turbo isn't working.

I've done some searching, and most of the research indicates there might be a leak in the intake system somewhere or something could be wrong with the PCV system. But - most of the odd code issues are BMW related, and there is very little info about them with respect to Minis.

I'm still planning to install the BSH Oil CC and Boost Tap. This should eliminate any potential issues with the PCV. Hopefully this weekend...

 

Curious about the Koala.

CAI is the worst bolt-on I've invested in so far. I dyno'd the car with the stock air box and after I installed the AEM. Apart from a very minimal increase in torque (negligible), no increase in HP as advertised.

 

Agreed with the CAI...

However, I think if the entire system is opened up, it does allow for potential increases in power. Never know until you try though.

I think I have a leak on the boost side which is why I'm down on power. Not looking forward to troubleshooting it.

 

I had some time last night to do some investigations. Before I started, I plugged a code reader in. No errors, but there were a couple warnings:
O2
Heater

Not really sure what they meant.

Proceeded to tear down piping between CAI and turbo. As I was inspecting the bolts on the BOV I noticed a loose cable under the turbo. Hmmm... why's that there? I plugged it in to a port just under the drivers side of the turbo and declared, "I bet that's the problem!" I believe its #2 in this realoem diagram:

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...44&hg=11&fg=50

Decided that while I was in there I would install the boost tap and oil CC. Its shocking how much oil residue is in that system. No wonder I've been walnut blasted 2X in 43K miles. No real issues with the install. In fact, the BSH stuff is very subtle and looks kinda stock. I'll post some pics in a day or two.

Put everything back together (I had removed the OE fresh air line to make room for the CC). Started the car. No CELs, but forgot to check for those other warnings (I'll do that today). Took it for a spin.

Totally different car! I still have the VR Tune, but will flash back to stock, dyno, reflash VR, and dyno again. At this point, the butt dyno says I've gained all my power back and added more. I honestly think the Alta BOV spring makes a huge difference when shifting gears (esp. in the automatic). The car positively surges, lag is minimal and torque steer isn't too bad. From 2-3 and 3-4 under power, the car seems to surge even faster after a gear change (probably due to the turbo's torque curve) - my buddy had the same observation. The BOV no longer sounds like a warbly fart. True Fast n Furious pppffssst, but not quite as high pitched. Honestly, not what I was looking for (I'm too old for that kind of attention), but still makes you giggle a bit.

I'll schedule the dyno and get back to you guys in a few days. If I can find a safe place for some 0-60 runs, I'll try to get before/after tune runs for those as well.

 

Ahh yes, that would have been the diverter valve (or BOV as you called it) you left unplugged! Probably when you installed the upgraded spring That has a direct effect on how the turbo works. I'm glad you found the culprit! Get those runs in and hop on that dyno! Let's see what its got now!

 

Yeah, when I was researching my trouble codes, I came across DV quite a bit... eventually figured it out.

DV = BOV = Blow off valve

Dyno scheduled for Monday afternoon.

0-60 runs scheduled for after work. Non-instrumented... anyone know if Torque app will do it automatically?

 

Hi Everyone,

On Friday, I performed some 0-60 runs.

Mini automatics are not fun for this. The results are far from impressive. Basically, unless you do a brake stand (not recommended for FWD cars), you can't get a good launch. I would hazard that a standard car would shave 1 second off each time. The auto is only fun when you're already moving. I tried some brake stands, but the car didn't like it and I didn't feel like risking the tranny. You guys are great, but I'm not going to shred my tranny for you

Results (approximations):
Intake only: 8.1seconds
Intake + VR Tune: 7.7seconds

Impressive right?

Actually not even a little. I actually did the Tune runs first. On the third run, the car freaked out. It threw that funny Engine malfunction light in the tac. It was yellow, but not quite in limp mode (I was able to go faster than 30mph). I could only clear it after going back to stock.

I got some CELs as well, but can't recall if it was before or after I flashed it back to stock. I'll report back later after I confer with my buddy. I recorded them, but forgot the timing:

U114/5b - lost control with engine control torque 1/3 (had this one before)
U115E - Lost communication with Engine Data
U0121 - Lost communication with Anti-lock Brakes System (ABS) Control Module
U1131 - ??? anyone?

For certain, though, I got two code reader warnings (with Tune):
O2 & Heater (not sure if they will clear with time

Today, I dyno'd again. Stock first followed by VR Tune. See pdf with a good example from each run (I round up). I forgot to mention this before. Mini's are a bit@& to dyno. You have to roll onto the throttle and go gradual (this could affect overall numbers). If you don't roll, the car freaks out and you have to start over.

Stock: 148HP 162ft-lbs 67F
Intake: 160HP 160ft-lbs 83F
Intake+Tune: 169HP 185ft-lbs 86F

During the Tune run, the car freaked out again on the third run (I sense a pattern). I haven't run the car hard on the street, but in all scenarios, it runs fine. I have a feeling that on a track or autocross day, though the VR Tune will freak out. I will reach out to them tomorrow and see what I can find. Also, it should be putting out more torque (at least 200). I didn't expect the power to be much higher as most tunes gain the extra power with the higher rev limit, and the auto tranny will always shift around 6300rpm. Threw a P2885 (Boost Pressure Control Deviation) today with VR Tune. Cleared it and it hasn't come back yet.

Back to the intake run. If I recall, the best run showed about 11HP and about 10ft-lbs gain over stock. Right in line with what Cravenspeed claims for the Koala. Its disappointing that the much more open system (intake and exhaust) didn't yield more gains - maybe Miltek downpipe will cure that later. However, power and torque did begin building about 250rpm earlier. It did feel much more lively than stock.

That's all I've got for now.

 

Hi all,

I updated the middle run from my previous post. Also, I'm attaching all the dyno runs except baseline here - baseline in previous post.

Dyno1 recap:
best HP = 148
best Torque = 162

Dyno2 = All intake HW from initial post (Stock ECU)
Dyno3 = Dyno2 + VR Tune ECU flash

Dyno2
best HP = 160
best Torque = 164

~12hp matching Koala intake claims - not sure if other parts helped with the increase. Overall torque was not as consistent and there were no gains.

Dyno3
best HP = 169
best Torque = 185

These numbers were all over the map and one run was a complete fail (136HP). These gains are significant, and you can feel the difference - esp when you compare Dynos 2 vs. 3 torque curves in the 3000-4500 range. There is a huge spike - see comparison in last post.

VR Claims:
208 HP | 225 lb-ft at crank with stock intake

Assuming 15% driveline loss, we're supposed to be at:
177 HP | 191 lb-ft (33HP & 48lb-ft claimed gains)

We're not that far off their final numbers, but way off the claims, and with the extra flow of the intake and my existing exhaust, I was told to expect both number to be well over 200. If we measure the claimed gains, I should be at:

Dyno2
best HP = 160+33 = 193
best Torque = 164+48 = 212
Not even close...

Also, the car still freaks out when pushed hard multiple consecutive times. Not sure if the claimed HP increases are supposed to be from area under the curve + extended redline or just from extended redline. They are next to be emailed.

Overall assessment:
The parts by themselves did make a difference in my car. I think mine is one of the N14s more susceptible to the intake woes we all read about. Prior to installation, I never noticed when the turbo kicked in. Throttle response was mediocre at best at all times. With the intake, the car was livelier and throttle response was much improved (in or out of Sport mode). Car also felt like it had more power/torque. The noises I hear now are pretty cool. It actually makes me marvel at how much engineering goes into masking those sounds.

With the VR tune, everything I already mentioned is magnified again. At speed the car feels faster. With the auto, the car is slow off the line, but from 10mph to whatever, its actually fast - not as fast as my supercharged Z3 M Coupe, but quicker than most other cars on the road. Torque steer is a bit silly at times. It should be faster and more stable though. But again, we're nowhere near their claims on increased power and torque. I'll bug VR and see what they say.

 

I didn't read your entire thread regarding NM mods but it's common knowledge that majority of aftermarket air intakes don't produce any horsepower but in fact looses low end torque. Only a true cold air (cai) that draws air outside the engine compartment will produce negligible gains.

 

I suspected as much, but thought I'd provide some data for the rest of the world. Of course, nothing ever goes as planned... so here we are.

Hoping some other readers can help with trouble shooting.

Currently, I'm running a softer tune from VR. They feel the intermittent CELs and limp mode were hardware related and the weak link has been called out (but not identified) by the added stress on the engine from the extra power. Sure... I'll send them some log files when I get a chance to run them.

Right now, with the MODs installed and with the softer tune, I don't have any CELs (again, each time I flash I get those weird ones that no one can explain), but they don't come back after they are cleared. However, my scan tool is displaying a few warnings (please see attached pic) that flash on the tool which would mean I wouldn't pass a smog test:
EVA (evaporative system)
O2S (O2 sensor)
HTR (Heater)

The car has been run for a couple weeks. These types of warnings usually show for a period off time after you clear the CELs, but its been a while, and they haven't gone away. Anyone have any idea what could be causing these? The O2S and HTR were present for both tunes, but the EVA is new with the softer tune (is it related to the Oil CC?).

Appreciate any feedback.

Next steps:
1. send log files to VR
2. tune back to stock and see if the warnings go away

Thanks!

 

I'd fold the cards and cash out. Drop that tune and move on. You shouldn't have to go through all of this with a tune. Heck even most AP tunes didn't have this much headache. I'd get on the horn with a Manic dealer and everything will be behind you. And no I'm not a Manic dealer or a Manic fanboy, heck I'm not even running a Manic tune! With everything you've presented us here, its clear the VR tune is not worth the time and will not perform like any other tune.

 

Perhaps, but I haven't verified that the warnings don't exist without the tune yet. I want to minimize the total number of flashes so I have to go in a specific order.

 

I just got my AEM intake it now comes with CARB compliance here in California I was happy to notice.

 

Hi everyone,

Its been a while, so I thought I'd update you.

Regarding the warnings on my code reader for:
EVA (evaporative system)
O2S (O2 sensor)
HTR (Heater) - also an O2 issue

All go away except the HTR when I remove the oil catch can. Guess my reader is sensitive to the PCV stuff. When I get it smogged, those parts will come off anyway (10 minute job). The HTR issue does not show when the dealer scans the car, so hoping it won't show when I need to smog it (due very soon). If it does pop during smog, the car is still under warranty, so dealer can fix it (new O2 sensors - again).

During all these upgrades, the car was in for service numerous times. This motor really is a POS (48K miles). To be clear, when the car went to dealer, all the HW mods (except CC and boost tap) were still installed on the car. The SW was reverted to stock. Here are the items that were fixed since we last spoke:
HP Fuel pump
PCV (and valve cover - apparently all integrated)
Coils (#3 was bad and was causing problems the whole time)
Spark Plugs
a couple other items that I can't recall right now...

Anyway, since I'm waiting for DMV to send me renewal/smog requirement, I haven't put the tune or CC back on the car (been a few weeks). As soon as I'm done with smog, I will put the first tune back on the car. Hoping that all my issues were due to bad coils and PCV. The new plugs are also 1 step colder. I don't plan on dynoing the car, but should notice if I go into limp mode after a few hard runs.

Downpipe is next/last upgrade...

 

I will be interested to see how it now performs on the Dyno now?

 

Glad you're still interested. Not sure if I'm going to spend any time dyno'ing it. The car does not dyno well and I'm not confident it reads correctly - too many sensors saying the wheels are moving at different speeds...

Needless to say, 95% of the time, the car runs great. Mileage is the same, but lots more oomph. However, I get a random limp mode (no CEL) periodically which goes away after I leave the car off for a while. Assuming its after a cool down. I'm going to have it taken in and see if there is a hidden code. If so, I'm hoping I can find the weak point in the system and keep this tune. Otherwise back to the 17psi tune.