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I'll also note, at the release latch, I can reach in with my finger and start pulling cable. I only pulled a couple inches. The metal end may be broken at the release latch under the bonnet. Lets just assume so. How does one open the hood on this car without the interior latch?
The connection between # 11 and the #12 where the cable slides into that little U slot and then holds the cable in place is where it pops out. Get behind the lower kick panel and check it out. If the handle is busted it will need replaced, if its just bent you will need to bend it back. Once the hood open again spray penetrating fluid on the locks under the hood near the cables, they can gum up and bind causing the hood latch issues.
Yeah unfortunately on these cars there are two hood latches and the cable for them runs along the topside of the radiator support so tough to get to from underneath. You should be able to get the front bumper off without opening the hood and from there you might be able to access the latches. Alternately you might try pulling the drivers side fender liner and seeing what you can get to from there. I can't imagine it being easy though. Not easy at all.
Thanks for the info! Sorry I didn't get back earlier, I've been away, and trying do things on a forum from my phone is a royal PIA. I appreciate the time you took to post and I'm going to get on this when the weather permits. (Seems to always be snowing lately).
It turns out, it was (is) the hood release under the dash. It folded like a cheap card table. I guess I hadn't pulled enough cable out to realize it. (didn't want to make matters worse.) Even with the under hood latches lubed up with White Lithium grease, and re attaching and straightening the latch, it won't release, unless somebody is pushing down on the hood to release all back pressure. Going to have to order a latch. Always something...
This is apparently a common failure due to the design of the release lever; it wasn't something that I ever expected on a car-
The hood wasn't releasing on the 2010 Cooper S, and instead of getting a second person to push down on the hood as I pulled, I pulled harder.
The release levers may have been made shorter for the purpose of limiting the amount of force that someone could exert on it, but guess I either had stronger fingers or more determination than most, and with a resounding pop, something gave way.
Peering inside, the stamped steel bracket with the simple slot holding the release cable allowed it to pop off the slot, so the release lever just limply pulls the unbraced cable to no effect.
I needed to pop the hood in the meantime, so with someone pushing down on the hood, I was able to use my Leatherman to pull the cable as I braced the housing.
Good advice to keep everything well lubed and frequently exercise the release. And if it doesn't release with just one finger, find a helper to push down on the hood while pulling.
Glad you were able to get it open with that trick. Always check to make sure the cable did not pop out near the latch on the kick panel first.
I reattached it by pulling back the kick panel trim for access, but I'm going to take steps to secure it properly. Have to wonder if this stamped metal design was intentional or just a bad cost savings measure.
This shows the stamped metal bracket holding the release cable at the driver side kick panel.
I may just use zip ties and safety wire for good measure to keep the cable from sliding out of the little slot again. Better would be to rig up some kind of retainer that could be easily swung out of the way if there was some need to remove the cable, and keep it in place otherwise.
I have the OEM replacement. Really a cheap piece of tin. Doesn't really matter right now anyways. The Vacuum pump seized (78K miles) and destroyed the top end of the engine. Estimate is $6,000. It is at a MINI dealer in Pennsylvania...400 miles away. I live in Maine. Suddenly, the annoyance of the failed hood latch lever, failed water pump, failed thermostat housing, failed valve cover gasket, and failed intake manifold. . .don't seem so important anymore. Would have been nice if some of this happened under warranty.
My cable came unattached at the hood release latch, the white cable guide is still in the slot. I can pull about an 1 1/2" and push it back in but no unlatch. I even had someone push down on the hood. The cable only came off at the black hood release latch. I think I have a problem at the pop up cover on the fender well, where the two cables connect. Do I have to remove the bumper to get the hood released?
Wingerr!
were you able to secure the cable to the metal retainer? I have the same problem, and using pliers at the moment to open bonnet. thanks
Yes, I straightened out the stamped metal bracket so the prongs face more toward end of the cable, and after putting the cable back on, I used some wire to keep it from sliding out to the open end. You could use zip ties also, it just has to keep it from shifting if the flimsy metal bracket bends.
Ultimately, you want to keep all the latches and cables well lubed so it doesn't require that much force to open, because it's when the hood is not opened for a while and the linkages get gummed up that it needs more force to open.
Once the cable starts sliding towards the open end, the bracket gets weaker and weaker due to the force being exerted on the tips of the U, until it just slides completely off.
By making sure the cable is seated as far in as possible, it will be less likely to start bending.
The way they designed it is not able to put that much force on it (probably explains why the release lever is so short, to keep it from getting too much force on it)
However, when you have a determined guy with strong fingers, it can get enough force to bend the bracket and pop it right off the cable mounts.
They should have used a thicker gauge metal for the bracket or at least put a proper retainer on it instead of just relying on a friction fit.
Sometimes the cable rust up near the lock under the hood requiring more pull from the interior pull latch for the hood to pop, that's when the cable pops out the side or the flat metal bends.
There is a simple fix to get the bonnet open if the problem is not at the driver footwell: Use a long pry bar and press up on the latches from underneath the car. The right side latch is clearly visible and can be used for practice. The left side latch is a little more challenging but can be reached with a long pry bar. You want to press up on the part of the latch that is connected to the cable. It is slightly thinner metal. Find a spot with good purchase and hit the pry bar smartly with palm of your hand. You should be rewarded with a click/spring sound and the thicker part of the latch will have rotated.
Looks like I may be trying this soon. Tried to open the hood today and the pull handle make a loud pop and the hood didn't open. Going to the garage now to check the cable at the pull handle. Probably won't jack up the car until the weekend if I have to get under it to jimmy the hood open. :/
03-15-2014, 10:01 AM
Keep those from latches greased in the front at the connection to the cable.
