At seven years and 72000miles I have my first oil leak from the head gasket. I also had a flashlight shine on my serpentine drive belt, and ... yikes! Almost broken into smaller pieces. I have scheduled its replacement for the coming week.

Folks, check the drive belt.

It's on the starboard side (US passenger side), low down, far left as you hang over the open hood.

 

Calvin, a PW/B basic Clubman, is my second MINI. The first, a SG/B basic MC named JoeGreen, came to our garage 31 Jan 03. We have MINI experience!!

Calvin is running like a top ... now. Manual tran is working well. Clutch is in good shape (knock wood ... my first MINI's clutch lasted until 150K). This Clubbie has 98,879 miles today as I average a bit over 20K per year and always have for years.

I just replaced OEM Conti-ProContacts again for the 3rd time at 90K. I regularly - 20K - align the wheels but I have not rotated the tires. We have a lot of speed bumps and pot holes here. I'm not happy with 30K tire wear but it's a lot better than the experience I had with the first MINI.

I do oil changes with MINI oil at 10K at a local extremely talented garage. They check over everything including codes during the oil service. I give them a lot of credit for this vehicle's superb maintenance.

But, I have been to the dealer a few times since the end of warranty, too. Most recently, severe engine performance problem with codes indicating inlet adjustment and solenoid issues. On the first trip to Charleston MINI, the inlet adj was replaced. At the same time, oil change and the original battery was replaced (80K). However, I had to make a second trip at 2K later to replace the solenoids. They claimed they were going by 'the codes.' The service advisor suggested that I had used 'bad' oil which caused the problems. I confirmed that only MINI parts and supplies have been used including the higher prices. Not Happy!

Given the significant reports of timing probs with the S, I'm still apprehensive about where Calvin will end up in this topic. Hence, we have started looking at other brands with better reliability. To me that means that major parts don't go bad too soon and cause a surprize regardless of consistent, high quality maintenance.

Before warranty ran out, the dealer replaced the water pump because the housing was cracked (35K) and I made 2 trips to replace both sides of the fuel system because the gauge stopped working correctly (48K). I thought about trading then but I've stuck with it because I love driving, sitting in, hauling things around in the Clubman.

Frankly, even though I've driven the 'new' MINIs, I'm not convinced they wouldn't have the same odd problems. And, I don't like the pricing scheme. Several other brands are putting the options on their vehicles as standard items for a lower price. Maybe I'm not so interested in German technology anymore.

 

On April 16 he rolled over and we celebrated with a paid day at the car spa.

 

Wow, 250k, that's great. I'm holding strong at 36,500 miles on my 08.

 

Ok so please tell your story. I have not seen one R56 with over 187,000 miles so when I see 250,000 miles I want a story.

What year?
What have you replaced?
Original engine?
Issues?
Any other good information.

And thanks.

 

'Pelle' died early July, a month shy of his 7th birthday, 256k plus a few. I had plenty of clues the timing chain was stretched, but never found the time to measure or replace it. He started acting funny after a fill up, not wanting to run and missing real bad, unless I cooled him down about an hour. Then he'd rum like nothing happened. Until the next fill up. Replaced gas cap, intake and exhaust solenoids and air filter but problem persisted. Replaced both O2 sensors no change. Baffling problem but again a chain with 250K miles told me I was close to the end. Read on here to disconnect the intake solenoid to override the system and sure enough the misses stopped and he purred like new. Killed the engine to put things away and forgot to rehook up the solenoid...went to start him and chain went clunk clunk...no werkie. I towed him to a friends house where he still sits, awaiting my next move. Bought a cheap Jetta, gas model...ALMOST caved on a TDI just before that storm hit, but decided last minute that gas was better than replacing particulate filters which is very costly in Cali..thousands every few years. Yes, I should have changed the chain this summer..just never found the time. All he ever had was brakes done by me, water pump and thermostat changed last summer by me, and 5K miles Mobil One Euro oil changes. Great little car, and I know I was MUCH luckier than most. I feel guilty enough to try and fix him, hoping turning him over didn't damage valves...but only one way to find out. Cheers!
Edit: 2008 Justa N12

 

Well there u go. My hopes shot down.
A non-turbo engine R55. I knew it was too good to be true. I have seen very few R56s with over 150,000 miles and none over 200,000. Probably just too early. Need to wait a few more years.
Thanks again.

 

My 2009 Clubman S has 166,000 km, (103,000 miles). I've had him 3 years, second owner. A few issues starting to creep up. Replaced shocks from Sport to Koni FSW last month. Just had HPFP replaced under warranty. Now,I've lost tail/brake lights. Still, no car payment, fun to drive. I may keep him until he gives up the ghost

 

Well, we Justa N 12 folks can look forward to being the tortoise to the turbo hares. I've always appreciated the fun of the N 14 or 18 engines, but have winced at the delicacy of the components. You R 56 turbo owners must replace those chains and vacuum pumps, and drive (serpentine) belts if you want to go the distance.

I have already replaced my timing chain in my Justa at 75,000 miles since it was beyond spec, even with a new tensioner bolt back at 60,000. I am heartened to see this Pelle make it to 250,000, but wish we could have seen that new timing chain go in :-(

My Justa will be 8 years old in February, has about 85,000 miles and faces its greatest enemy in rust. My subframe has plenty of corrosion from all the salt up here in the north, despite my frequent spraying at the pressure wash around the corner.

I need to find a shop that can remove the rust and coat the critical parts...

 

I have a little over 128,000 miles on my 2010 Clubman S. Purchased it used with about 60k a little over 2yrs ago. I decided to purchase an after market warranty, thankfully. I am in sales and travel alot, so I knew the 36000 mile warranty would only last a little over a year. I had the car for about a month before "normal" maintenance issues began. Brakes, new catalytic converter. About a year later around 97k, timing tensioner goes. Catastrophic failure. Thank God I still had the warranty. I only had about a thousand miles left. I was only out of pocket about $500 for the cost of walnut treatment on existing valves which were not replaced. Rest of the work was about $5,000. Brakes again for the front around 110k. Still love to drive her, but she is a high maintenance girl to say the least. Quite pricy, especially through the dealer.

 

If you don't mind me asking what did the aftermarket warranty cost? For what coverage period?

 

106,000 going for 200,000 , on clubman S , oil change every 5 k

 

I'm a small fry.

2011 Clubman S
Bought in 2013 w/ 21k
Currently at 42k.

Had clutch replaced under Maintenance plan before it expired (thank you Morristown Mini). Also had a small oil leak from a oil pressure sesor fixed under warranty. Nothing big since then. Hoping my N18 engine holds up well. I change the oil every 6k miles or 6 months. She also gets 2 track days a year.

 

Well done,

 

I think it was around $3,000? 36000 mile warranty. Has more than paid for itself in the items that it has covered.

 

2011, 16,000 miles no issues!!

 

Only 16k original miles? Got any pictures for us?

 

Hi,
Any updates for "Justa" clubbys? Especially interested in 2011-> N16 as mine is a 2012. Purchased mini in June 2015 at 13,500 miles, 18,300 on it now. Only oil changes, tires (just swapped Conti pro contact SSR with Nokian WRG3 non-runflat), after market seat heaters, LED driving lights, and MINI roof rack.

 

Well hello to all, I have 114K on the clock on my Mini. I do all of my own wrenching. So far as of right now I replaced the timing chain at 90k for a preventative measure with an upgraded chain tensioner. This week I was disappointed when I had a coolant disaster, I lost the thermostat assy., (warning DTC check engine light came on and off for a week) which btw came out broken. So I went ahead and replaced the thermostat, and found the coolant cross over pipe "O" ring blew out right in the driveway and all the coolant drained down, and after getting and eye on the water pump and cross over pipe, (all the plastic versions). I found I need to replace the cross over tube, the water pump and thermostat all at the same time. It seems the "plastic" parts do not hold up or fare well to the test of time. I drive long distances to and from work. 104 miles a day minimum, So there you have it. No other issues except the hands free stinks big time But I do love this car and I vow I will keep driving this Mini as long as it lets me. I will need help on how to get the cross over pipe out of the engine. It does seem loose. Do I need to remove the intake to get to it?

 

More info here:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ater-tube.html




The tube can be hard to get off at the water pump side and the end can crumble on the plastic. Its easier with the the intake out , then reach under the manifold, of course the thermostat will have to be out.

 

Is the o-ring that is bad or is the whole pipe cracked? When you replace it, there is a clip that holds it to the thermostat, #3 below. Be sure to remove it in order to remove the pipe. It's in there pretty good and lots of people struggle with it to remove so don't get discouraged. We have the pipe and clip here if needed. Water pump and other cooling parts here if needed as well. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

I have looked at the job, And I did replace the thermostat, but it obviously has to come back out, just cant figure how to get the plastic tube out Ugh?

 

Robert Pritchard

Its linked in our thread above.

 

I already have the new metal pump, a new thermostat and I ordered the tube with the o ring from Minimania already. I figured it would be best to change out the tube, O ring and clip at this point. Basically Just needed to know if I needed to pull the intake and should I replace the gaskets on it too?

 

Top intake yes, main intake manifold no , you can work around it.