I've used to drive justa R56 before and sold in 2013 with 90k miles.
it had only water pump and thermostat problem when it hits 80k miles.
I still missed driving mini cooper so this time, i am planning to buy s model instead of justa model. I've always been thinking that justa needed more horse power. anyway, i've looked up craigslist around my area and found a good deal (i guess) from private seller selling r52 06 mini cooper s automatic with only 39k miles. it's been only one owner. I haven't test driven it yet but the photos shows that it is excellent interior condition and exterior as well but rear emblem on trunk is faded and headlights are little foggy.
I think it's been well maintained on previous owners. however, my main concern is that I've read some posts regarding problem on r56 mini cooper s model and mostly had water pump & timing tensioners problem. I'm not familiar with R53 & R52. Are you guys recommending me to buy it?, Please tell me your thoughts.

 

The R52/ R53 S engine don't have near the issues of the early R56 N14 engines, the W11 engines are more simple and the supercharger whine sounds great. Post up some pics. I would check i out and go through it regardless on a PPI inspection or get it to a lift and have a person look over it.

I have an R52 MCC with over 254K+ now post #16

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-boy-blue.html





Let me know if you need anything.

 

Thanks for reply!!
Please see attached!

 

Looks clean... make sure to check the crank pulley and the transmission during the inspection. The rubber on the crank pulley breaks down causing the pulley to fail and can cause some major problems depending on how bad the failure is. When you change the pulley, a dampened aftermarket pulley is recommened. They are cheaper than oem and don't have the design problem inherennt with the stock pulley.

Pay close attention on the test drive to how the auto trans shifts and if you feel anything strange. Even if all seems good, I would have the transmission fluid changed and properly filled after purchase. The auto transmissions can be a problem and regular fluid changes can help avoid having issues. The fluid is not lifetime as stated in the owners manual and don't let anyone convince you that it is. Many owners are now using intervals of 25K - 45K for fluid changes. It takes about 3 changes, if you're just draining through the drain plug, to get about 80% new fluid.

What part of California is the car located? Bay Bridge Motors in the Cay Area and Mini Corsa in So Cal would probably be good shops to get an inspection.

 

Thank you so much for advise!! the seller is located in socal south bay area so i might have PPI at Miniworx. Do you know how much does transmission flud change cost?

 

Great looks like you have rare factory / dealer chrome R91 wheels

 

Seller just sent me a photo of inspection record from Carmax. it shows that Driver Quarter : Prior Paintwork.
which means it had a frame damage or something else?

 

Take your time, no rush. I took a month this year before locating the right R53. Fortunately, my colleagues have over 40 years experience with the brand for both street and track models. We received the first MINI in the U.S.

Check the TrueCar value for similar models in your zip code and beyond. Drive multiple years and models from various dealerships. You're in the Bay Area and we are in Nevada City, so don't be afraid to ask for help. We often have people drop by and ask for opinions.

Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.

 

If you decide to go with it, the first thing to do is ditch that danged swivel cup holder. Your passenger will push it out of the way to the left and it will push a few climate control buttons and drive you nuts. Just squeeze the rods together and they'll slide out of the bracket. Besides, when you take that first sharp twisty, the beverage of your choice will take flight, a poor design all around.

 

Not sure on how much the fluid change would be. Depending on how it's changed, it can take multiple changes to complete. Just draining through the drain plug typically gets about 1/3 of the fluid out. It takes 3 changes to get about 80%+ new fluid in the trans. A short drive should be done between changes to mix up fluid.

Dropping the transmission pan will get most of the fluid out in one shot, but it involves dropping the subframe which is a lot of work and more expensive. If you go this route, make sure to combine other repairs that require subframe removal. Some common things to check are the ball joints, lower control arm bushings (OEM always go bad quickly), power steering hoses (frequently leaking) or the power steering pump. Also, change the trans filter if you drop the pan.

Making sure the transmission is properly filled can be tricky since it's critical the temperature of the fluid is in the proper range when filling/checking the fluid.

It could have been major damage, but it could also be something simple like being keyed, or getting hit with a shopping cart. You'll have to look at it closer. Look behind panels like the wheel well liner, interior panels, or under the car to see if the car shows evidence of a major repair or accident. Also, look for things like new suspension components, trim, or the tailight to see if they've been replaced.

 

This is msg that the seller just sent me regarding paint.

CarMax actually checks for that. The car was parked on the side of the road in front of my house and someone brushed along side it. The car was parked on a hill on the side of the road and the tires were turned inward. A car trying to pass another on our street came too close and brushed along side the front quarter of the car and clipped the front tire (which stuck out a bit because they were pointed toward the curb). They damaged some of the paint, tire and related suspension. Everything was repaired through insurance, which replaced the front driver side tire, related suspension and repainted the affected panels. This happened over a year or so ago. The car itself has never been in an accident.

 

Sounds reasonable... do they have any pictures of the damage or the repair bill you could look at. It really could have been minor damage, but without seeing evidence, the buyer doesn't really know what happened and should always think the damage was always worse than described.

Now that you know the story, I would relay that to the MINI specialist doing the inspection, along with any pics or the repair bill, so he can give his opinion on how bad it was, and determine if the car was properly repaired.

 

I just went to see the seller and took a photo of service records that he had received before. I also did test drove only few miles since he had to go back to his office. he seems really nice 40-50 old guy but he didn't seem like knowing much of his car. I found some weird problem while test drive. there is little air leak noise from passenger side and rpm wasn't stable. today it was over 90 degrees so he turned on a/c and rpm was around 700-800 but needle was keep moving up and down noticeably and suddenly bumps up to 1000. i asked him there is something wrong with rpm now and he said maybe a/c was turning on so after 30 seconds he turned off, rpm goes down to 700 but wasn't stable though. I've driven only r56 justa, it was way different experience. Please see attached and give me an advise.
Thanks

 

If that's the service history, I only see one oil change in 3-4 years. They did get a lot of things done and it looks like they could afford to service the car. I wonder if they had the oil changes done somewhere else. Also, I wonder why the two window regulators needed replacing?

 

Thanks again for advise!! I finally purchased that car yesterday and had an inspection from Miniworx at Southbay. they said everything is good condition except the tire has been cupped since front strut needs to be replaced. today as you have recommended i went to Minicorsa and let them know all about inspection statement and they said i don't need to replace the front strut and miniworx lies to me. they said miniworx might think the front strut needs to be replaced because tires are cupped. however, they said it looks okay with struts.
i'm very satisfied with the car condition now except the whistle noise from the convertible top on the passenger side. I am going to take it to Minicorsa tomorrow and will see how they can fix it. hopefully, it doesn't cost over $400-500.

 

is this normal?

 

The idle looks pretty normal to me.

Does it hesitate while you accelerate or something?

 

Thanks for fast reply! really? this is normal?lol
no it doesn't hesitate.

 

Congratulations on your new MINI!

If you're talking about the range, no, I don't think so. I'm not sure exactly the reading, but my auto usually shows a little over 300, maybe 320? when full. The calculated mpg and range is not precise, but I still think 264 is wrong unless there's actually an issue with your engine and that's about what it's been getting per tank in the past. Usually the displayed mpg has been about 1-2 mpg over my manual calculations.

I think there's a way to reset the computer but I don't remember how.

 

Ask MINI Corsa if your strut towers are mushrooming and the condition of your lower control arm bushings in the front. These, along with a leaking thermostat seal, leaking crank position sensor seal, low speed cooling fan resistor problem, and a leaking coolant tank are very common problems with supercharged MINI's. Also, get there opinion on changing the trans fluid.

 

In town driving is much less efficient as opposed to long distance highway. Besides the range reading, check out the MPG readout from time to time around differing driving styles. Reset it for around town then read and reset it for the highway. Should be a dramatic difference. Mine has been low like that after a few weeks of just running errands. Fill'er up, range reads 2XX and head off on the road you can actually watch the range increase.
Engine efficiency is also affected in part by fuel quality. Are you pumping Top Tier and top octane?

 

Normal, you will see it dip a hair if you run the A/C or something turns on that loads the system. If you loose idle dramatically, then you have an issue.

 

Yeah i'm planning to have trans fluid change since it's 10 year old car with low mileage. do you think i also have to replace the spark plugs?

 

If those are the original plugs, YES! Some recommend plug replacement every 40K or thereabouts. Consider replacing the coil and wires at the same time, proactively at least.

 

I would have the spark plugs checked for condition and to make sure they're the correct plugs for the SC pulley, the brand, and also torqued correctly. There's a brand, or two, that frequently come loose and blow out of the head possibly damaging the head in the process.

The coil and wires will probably last a good time longer, but if you do replace them stock is as good if not better than most aftermarket items.