My car is a R52 2005 MCS JCW.

I've been plagued with convertible top problems since I got this car, and it's tiring trying to track it all down.

First, the problem was with the sunroof cable linkage, which I replaced.

Then I replaced the sunroof motor (the plastic gear was stripped).

Then I replaced the convertible top module.

With all of this, the top still won't go down. Here's what happening:

1. Push button, sunroof goes back
2. Push button again, latches unlock
3. At this point, the hydraulic pump is supposed to activate, but doesn't

I have access to GT1, which is the BMW diag software. I accessed the sensors -- all sensors are working correctly. I checked the relay activation, and it shows that when I press the convertible top button (at #2), the convertible top relay is supposed to activate, but it doesn't.

I thought this was the problem, so I replaced all four relays. There was no change. The convertible top would unlatch, but it will not go down.

But get this. If I manually bring the top down, suddenly the convertible top works. I can bring the top up, or down with absolutely no problem.

Here's the catch: as soon as the top latches touch the frame (as in, the top touches the windshield frames, locks the latches and closes the sunroof) I can't reopen the top anymore. I'm back to #3. When I have the top working, I can move it up or down at will. So long I don't have the top touching the windshield frames, it works exactly as it should. But like I said, as soon as it closes, poof, top won't open and I have to manually move it for it to start working again.

I've noticed that as soon as I manually open the top and move it just two inches away from the windshield frames, presto, the hydraulic pump kicks in and it starts to go down by itself.

At first, I thought that this was a problem with the hall sensors in the crossframe of the top. So I had GT1 read the sensors, and the sensors work exactly as they should. As soon as I move the top by hand, the sensor reports that the top is open (as it should). When the top touches the frame, the sensor reports the top is closed....like it should.

So, I thought that this might be a grounding issue with the convertible top touching the frame, so I had the top half way open and used a DMM to see if there was a current going from the top to the windshield frame. And there was a current. So to test to see if this was the problem, I covered the frame with a bed sheet (so metal doesn't touch metal) and closed the top as normal. Like before, as soon as the top touches the frame, poof, top won't retract anymore.

I'm at my wit's end. I don't know what else is the problem. I'm thinking of reserving a whole day this weekend to tear down the fabric and start to trace all the wires going from the sunroof motor to the CVM to the hydraulic motor and see if there is anything going on.

To recap:

--sunroof motor is new and works
--sunroof cable linkage is new
--GT1 confirms that all five sensors (the three hall sensors in the top, the two sensors to the left of the top) are in working condition and report what they should at the correct time
--the two microswitches in the back are working. The shelf microswitch is closed when the shelf is down, and open when shelf is up. The latch microswitch is also working.
--all four relays (two relay for sunroof and two relay for convertible top) are new and activate when the top is operational
--convertible top module is new and working
--CVM does not have any code whatsoever. To make sure that the CVM works, I unplugged the sensor plugs, and the CVM spat out codes about the sensors short circuiting or there is a open circuit. So, the CVM is working.

I'm so frustrated. I'm this close to basically selling the car at a serious loss just to get rid of it.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Bump...anyone?

 

Is the GT1 the top echelon software? I had my car at a guy who had a level of software that didn't give him the complete picture for my top problem. He took the car to another guy who HAD the correct program and they determined that the passenger side window motor was the issue. At the moment my car has a 90 day dealers warranty but in too short a period of time it will be expired and I'll be sitting with my posterior in the wind for all needed work.

And please don't ask me how then passenger window motor not working could disable the top in the down position. However, whatever was done made the top work so I have to believe it I guess. My Miata had a manual top and it worked fine every time I used it!

 

GT1 is the old BMW diagnosis software, but it's still the official one.

The newer BMW software is called OSS, I think. I have both, and it seems that both have the same features. Only... the OSS can connect to F10 cars and above, whereas GT1 connects to all BMW with a E model and all mini with a R model (not the R60 and above).

Regarding your rear window issue, I can believe it. The top operation requires very specific conditions to work, and the rear windows being fully closed is one of them.

Either way, I'm still stuck, because both of the BMW official software say that there's nothing wrong with my car, but top won't go down.

 

An aside to my window issue, it was the passenger door window, not the rear window, however that doesn't help you either way! And as for the OSS, F10 and all the other "modern" lingo, I'm lost. I am from the carburetor, points, plugs, and distributor generation and have essentially NO comprehension of the electronic cars of modern times. I don't quite date back to the hand crank period, but it wasn't too far before I was born!

I wish I could offer you more than a shoulder but that's about all I have!

Good luck either way.

 

Hoping you get some help here as I have the same scenario however we repaired the cables instead of replacing them. In the process we shortened them about 6 MM. Worried that the process effected the ability of the hall sensor to read properly.

Cannot get the pump to start!!! Are you having any luck figuring out on your end?

 

Same scenario. Replaced right side leaking hydraulic pump. now the top will go down 25% of the time. The latches disengage, "sounds" like the pumps are working, but roof does not go down

 

My top has had this problem for quite awhile. The passenger side sunroof latch wont disengage, the plastic cog in the sunroof motor has been ground down, so now you have to open the top manually. I'm looking at around 3 grand for the dealership to fix what ever the problem. My only concern is what caused everything to break in the first place. Has anybody else had this bad of a top problem?

 

When one side of my top wouldn't disengage it was because the cable had broken loose from the slider on this part:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-C..._Top/ES158840/



The dealer wanted over $3800 to fix mine, saying I needed the whole "cassette". I was able to replace just that part and fixed it.

The motor is actually the cheaper part, and very easy to replace. It's just held in by 3 bolts, and then you undo the electrical connection.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-C..._Top/ES184353/

 

Glad you got it fixed and saved. Steve LV Motors are the easy part , the cables do take some time to install. Added the motor pic for you. Check both locations the cables detach near the connections at the front, and you can pop out and inspect the cables and the motor right above the center brace, under the cover, again a couple bolts. If the motor is ok , just put it back in exactly how it was removed.

Sunroof Mechanism / Convertible Top Cable Set , come in a pair only. Part # 54347174761 And we have them in stock most of the time so you can get that fixed asap.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/54347174761/





http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/67616961172/





Thanks