R50/53 Advice on new suspension for MCS 06
#1
#2
The best bang for the handling buck is performance struts and a heavier adjustable rear sway bar.
Advocates will recommend KONI FSD or Bilstein (not familiar with Bilstein) and a 19 or 22 MM RSB.
Check with some of the on site vendors for prices. The KONIs are often as much as half off. Below is an example of RSB performance.
OEM Stock Bar (17mm ) Baseline For Rate / Effective Rate =117 LBS/IN
ALTA 19mm Bar Setting #1 115% Higher Rate / Effective Rate =135 LBS/IN
ALTA 19mm Bar Setting #2 140% Higher Rate / Effective Rate =165 LBS/IN
ALTA 19mm Bar Setting #3 177% Higher Rate / Effective Rate =208 LBS/IN
ALTA 22mm Bar Setting #1 213% Higher Rate / Effective Rate =250 LBS/IN
ALTA 22mm Bar Setting #2 260% Higher Rate / Effective Rate =305 LBS/IN
ALTA 22mm Bar Setting #3 329% Higher Rate / Effective Rate =386 LBS/IN
PS: A link for finding choice country roads for spirited driving: http://www.motorcycleroads.us/index.html
Advocates will recommend KONI FSD or Bilstein (not familiar with Bilstein) and a 19 or 22 MM RSB.
Check with some of the on site vendors for prices. The KONIs are often as much as half off. Below is an example of RSB performance.
OEM Stock Bar (17mm ) Baseline For Rate / Effective Rate =117 LBS/IN
ALTA 19mm Bar Setting #1 115% Higher Rate / Effective Rate =135 LBS/IN
ALTA 19mm Bar Setting #2 140% Higher Rate / Effective Rate =165 LBS/IN
ALTA 19mm Bar Setting #3 177% Higher Rate / Effective Rate =208 LBS/IN
ALTA 22mm Bar Setting #1 213% Higher Rate / Effective Rate =250 LBS/IN
ALTA 22mm Bar Setting #2 260% Higher Rate / Effective Rate =305 LBS/IN
ALTA 22mm Bar Setting #3 329% Higher Rate / Effective Rate =386 LBS/IN
PS: A link for finding choice country roads for spirited driving: http://www.motorcycleroads.us/index.html
#4
#6
+1 on the B4's. Great direct OEM replacement with a slightly stiffer feel and increased handling potential while retaining a smooth ride. They're cost efficient and perfect for a daily driver. Are you just looking to do the shocks/struts or you looking to overhaul your suspension. We offer a few options that you might be interested in:
A complete suspension kit (stage 2 has the B4's): http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0. You can also delete out any items from the kit that you do not want once you add it to your cart.
Or you can just do the shocks/struts:
Struts - http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item3
Shocks - http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item4
and I'd also recommend replacing your mounts while you're in there,
strut mounts (Lemforder or Genuine) - http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...SUSSHK_pg2.htm
shock mounts (Lemforder or Genuine) - http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg2.htm#item8
and of course if you plan to do this replacement yourself we can help as well. We have articles here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...htm#suspension
With this set up you do not need to go with adjustable rear control arms as you're not changing your ride height. If you change your ride height you will want to invest in a set. If you have any questions please let me know.
A complete suspension kit (stage 2 has the B4's): http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0. You can also delete out any items from the kit that you do not want once you add it to your cart.
Or you can just do the shocks/struts:
Struts - http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item3
Shocks - http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item4
and I'd also recommend replacing your mounts while you're in there,
strut mounts (Lemforder or Genuine) - http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...SUSSHK_pg2.htm
shock mounts (Lemforder or Genuine) - http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg2.htm#item8
and of course if you plan to do this replacement yourself we can help as well. We have articles here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...htm#suspension
With this set up you do not need to go with adjustable rear control arms as you're not changing your ride height. If you change your ride height you will want to invest in a set. If you have any questions please let me know.
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#7
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
https://www.waymotorworks.com/h-spor...-sway-bar.html
After that it will depend on what you are trying to do. If you're not lowering the Koni FSDs are the best
https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-fsd-shocks.html
If you want to lower there are many more options, but our simple TSW lowering springs drop the car approx 3/4 inch and ride great, while drastically improving the handling.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/tsw-mi...e-springs.html
Otherwise let us know and I'll can help find what works for your needs.
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#8
He is correct that the sway bar is the best bang for the buck suspension mod, kinda like the pulley for your suspension. We have found the Hsport Comp sway bar to be the best for the R53, just set it on the middle setting and don't hurt your face smiling.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/h-spor...-sway-bar.html
After that it will depend on what you are trying to do. If you're not lowering the Koni FSDs are the best
https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-fsd-shocks.html
If you want to lower there are many more options, but our simple TSW lowering springs drop the car approx 3/4 inch and ride great, while drastically improving the handling.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/tsw-mi...e-springs.html
Otherwise let us know and I'll can help find what works for your needs.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/h-spor...-sway-bar.html
After that it will depend on what you are trying to do. If you're not lowering the Koni FSDs are the best
https://www.waymotorworks.com/koni-fsd-shocks.html
If you want to lower there are many more options, but our simple TSW lowering springs drop the car approx 3/4 inch and ride great, while drastically improving the handling.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/tsw-mi...e-springs.html
Otherwise let us know and I'll can help find what works for your needs.
#9
Thanks Pelican Parts and Way Motor Works! I've consulted your sites ever since I bought my new to me 2006 R53 with 52,000 miles 5 months ago. Changed transmission fluid with Redline and switched to Royal Purple on its oil change. Only MOD to it so far is K&N Typhoon CAI.
Thanks again for all the advice.
Thanks again for all the advice.
#12
If you are referring to an aftermarket camber arm for the rear suspension, no. Didnt lower anything, so the stock worked just fine. I did take it in for alignment after the shocks/struts were replaced. No problems other than age and rust made it a pain for the guy.
#13
Not trying to hijack the thread....but let's say you already have some IE camper plates on the front and have around 2-2.5 deg negative camber....what rear bar would you want then?
I'm assuming that with more grip in the front from the added camber, you don't want a rear bar that's as aggressive......right? Is the stock bar a good match...or would you be better of with an aftermarket one that's just a little stiffer?
I'm assuming that with more grip in the front from the added camber, you don't want a rear bar that's as aggressive......right? Is the stock bar a good match...or would you be better of with an aftermarket one that's just a little stiffer?
#14
This question is for Way Motor Works and Pelican Parts. I think I narrowed it down to Bilstein Sports and Koni FSD. I believe the Bilsteins can be lowered or kept the same. In your opinion, What set up would work for a daily? Giving me the best comfort so my wife will stop saying "I hate feeling all these bumps". But I still want to be able to take turns like a mini was intended to.
I know the RSB is essential. I'm actually happy the pep it has now, might not even do the pulley. Really want to get my hands on a Milltek exhaust (resonated) after suspension upgrades.
I know the RSB is essential. I'm actually happy the pep it has now, might not even do the pulley. Really want to get my hands on a Milltek exhaust (resonated) after suspension upgrades.
#15
The Bilstein Sport shocks/struts will lower your MINI. The Bilstein B4's are the same ride height and therefore do not require rear control arms. If you're wanting comfort, the Bilstein Touring Class (B4's) are for those looking for a slightly stiffer ride and increased handling potential while retaining a smooth ride. On top of the increased in handling and ride comfort, the B4's are a great bang for your buck because they're an upgrade, but they don't cost an arm and a leg. For both fronts and both rears you're looking at a little over $255 vs. $600+ for the FSD's. Both are great upgrades so take into consideration what each one provides, including price.
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#16
#18
Not trying to hijack the thread....but let's say you already have some IE camper plates on the front and have around 2-2.5 deg negative camber....what rear bar would you want then?
I'm assuming that with more grip in the front from the added camber, you don't want a rear bar that's as aggressive......right? Is the stock bar a good match...or would you be better of with an aftermarket one that's just a little stiffer?
I'm assuming that with more grip in the front from the added camber, you don't want a rear bar that's as aggressive......right? Is the stock bar a good match...or would you be better of with an aftermarket one that's just a little stiffer?
End result here is you want a stiffer rear sway bar to set the car up for slight oversteer (rear end breaks loose first in the corners). A 3 position, 19mm connected at the middle position does that nicely. That's my story and it works for me in a 2005 MCS hatch.
Last edited by BruceJ; 02-10-2017 at 11:52 AM.
#19
I just got some Koni Orange struts and an HSport 19MM rear way bar installed on my '06 R53 a few weeks ago when the original shocks wore out. I was originally going to go with the Koni FSDs but since I may want to lower the car a little in the next year or so (most likely with TSW springs), I kept the stock springs for now and went with Orange. My only regret is that I didn't do this sooner. The ride is relatively harsh, but bumps are soaked up way better than expected and the ride is more comfortable than stock IMHO. Also, I participate in a few club rides that take me onto the roads of Western MD/Northern WV/Southern PA and I have had a blast on the last few runs we did in the area, even on the more questionably maintained roads. If you plan on doing a decent amount of country driving, I highly recommend this combo.