R50/53 What next for power
#1
What next for power
So I've done a bit of searching and I still find my self lost as to what should be the next logical step to get more power out of my 2005 r53, so many people have told me so many options, the car currently has a DDM CAI, %15 sc pulley, colder plugs, and a borla cat back, what would be my next logical step, I looked into a flash tune for the Ecu but RMW told me they wouldn't do it unless I had a cam, which I am not looking to upgrade
#3
Power wise, if you're not looking to do a cam, you could put a new header on it, bigger injectors, and tune. If RMW won't tune it for you without a cam (which sounds really strange to me) then I'm sure someone will. Maybe look into a byketronic tune?
You've done all the easy power upgrades except a tune, so to me that seems like the next logical step.
You've done all the easy power upgrades except a tune, so to me that seems like the next logical step.
#4
#5
Power wise, if you're not looking to do a cam, you could put a new header on it, bigger injectors, and tune. If RMW won't tune it for you without a cam (which sounds really strange to me) then I'm sure someone will. Maybe look into a byketronic tune?
You've done all the easy power upgrades except a tune, so to me that seems like the next logical step.
You've done all the easy power upgrades except a tune, so to me that seems like the next logical step.
I'm really not opposed to a tune but they just kept talking about their street cam when I was trying to email them, if I went to a smaller pulley, 17 or 19 and bigger injectors and s tune think I could get anything worth while out of it?
#6
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
ECU tune is always the last mod we recommend after doing all your hard parts as the tune will be used to pull everything together and be done for how the car is that day so you won't want to make changes if you get a full dyno tune. We do offer a basic tune that allows you to continue to do mods without fear of running lean or causing problems, but it's not going to net you a bunch of power as it's designed for safety and ability to continue adding mods.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-ec...-cooper-s.html
If I would you the next mod if you haven't done it would be an ATI damper, not only will it be a little lighter and give you a slight bump on boost, but these are so common to fail this would also be considered a maint item as it would prevent you from having to worry about the stock one failing in the future like they all do.
But our Way Mild Street cam would be a nice bang for the buck and the next mod I would recommend.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/way-mi...t-r52-r53.html
I know you said you didn't want a cam, but it is idealy the best next mod.
Otherwise adding a Quaife LSD would be a great mod as it will allow you to get all the power you currently have to the ground, but will cost more and take more time.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-ec...-cooper-s.html
If I would you the next mod if you haven't done it would be an ATI damper, not only will it be a little lighter and give you a slight bump on boost, but these are so common to fail this would also be considered a maint item as it would prevent you from having to worry about the stock one failing in the future like they all do.
But our Way Mild Street cam would be a nice bang for the buck and the next mod I would recommend.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/way-mi...t-r52-r53.html
I know you said you didn't want a cam, but it is idealy the best next mod.
Otherwise adding a Quaife LSD would be a great mod as it will allow you to get all the power you currently have to the ground, but will cost more and take more time.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
R53
So I've done a bit of searching and I still find my self lost as to what should be the next logical step to get more power out of my 2005 r53, so many people have told me so many options, the car currently has a DDM CAI, %15 sc pulley, colder plugs, and a borla cat back, what would be my next logical step, I looked into a flash tune for the Ecu but RMW told me they wouldn't do it unless I had a cam, which I am not looking to upgrade
http://new.minimania.com/Mini_Cooper..._for_your_Mini
I love my R53, and we can help answer any of your questions!
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
#9
I wouldn't recommend a 19% pulley, they spin too fast, make a ton of heat, wear belts rather quickly, and put the M45 out of efficiency.
If you're looking to go with a smaller SC pulley I would recommend 17% max, and a 0% crank pulley.
More boost doesn't always equate to more power, flow dynamics will though. So added cam duration, quality header, a quality head, more fuel, a tune is where you go from here, and it can get quite expensive quite quickly, so what you expect from the car is the question in need of answering.
Personally I have the same engine mods on my car with the addition of 380 injectors, but the suspension has been gone through; sway bars front and rear, lowering springs, Koni yellows, poly bushings here there and everywhere, brakes, sticky tires, and those mods are what really woke the car up to me. The performance gains from the suspension work was worth more to me than any of the performance engine mods.
If you decide to start tuning the car, do so with the proper monitoring; boost gauge and wideband O2. It makes life easier to have a loader, or software to do your own file loading and logging so either a Mynes setup or the RMW loader would be beneficial to keep your downtime to a minimum.
If you're looking to go with a smaller SC pulley I would recommend 17% max, and a 0% crank pulley.
More boost doesn't always equate to more power, flow dynamics will though. So added cam duration, quality header, a quality head, more fuel, a tune is where you go from here, and it can get quite expensive quite quickly, so what you expect from the car is the question in need of answering.
Personally I have the same engine mods on my car with the addition of 380 injectors, but the suspension has been gone through; sway bars front and rear, lowering springs, Koni yellows, poly bushings here there and everywhere, brakes, sticky tires, and those mods are what really woke the car up to me. The performance gains from the suspension work was worth more to me than any of the performance engine mods.
If you decide to start tuning the car, do so with the proper monitoring; boost gauge and wideband O2. It makes life easier to have a loader, or software to do your own file loading and logging so either a Mynes setup or the RMW loader would be beneficial to keep your downtime to a minimum.
#10
I wouldn't recommend a 19% pulley, they spin too fast, make a ton of heat, wear belts rather quickly, and put the M45 out of efficiency.
If you're looking to go with a smaller SC pulley I would recommend 17% max, and a 0% crank pulley.
More boost doesn't always equate to more power, flow dynamics will though. So added cam duration, quality header, a quality head, more fuel, a tune is where you go from here, and it can get quite expensive quite quickly, so what you expect from the car is the question in need of answering.
Personally I have the same engine mods on my car with the addition of 380 injectors, but the suspension has been gone through; sway bars front and rear, lowering springs, Koni yellows, poly bushings here there and everywhere, brakes, sticky tires, and those mods are what really woke the car up to me. The performance gains from the suspension work was worth more to me than any of the performance engine mods.
If you decide to start tuning the car, do so with the proper monitoring; boost gauge and wideband O2. It makes life easier to have a loader, or software to do your own file loading and logging so either a Mynes setup or the RMW loader would be beneficial to keep your downtime to a minimum.
If you're looking to go with a smaller SC pulley I would recommend 17% max, and a 0% crank pulley.
More boost doesn't always equate to more power, flow dynamics will though. So added cam duration, quality header, a quality head, more fuel, a tune is where you go from here, and it can get quite expensive quite quickly, so what you expect from the car is the question in need of answering.
Personally I have the same engine mods on my car with the addition of 380 injectors, but the suspension has been gone through; sway bars front and rear, lowering springs, Koni yellows, poly bushings here there and everywhere, brakes, sticky tires, and those mods are what really woke the car up to me. The performance gains from the suspension work was worth more to me than any of the performance engine mods.
If you decide to start tuning the car, do so with the proper monitoring; boost gauge and wideband O2. It makes life easier to have a loader, or software to do your own file loading and logging so either a Mynes setup or the RMW loader would be beneficial to keep your downtime to a minimum.
My car has all the same suspension upgrades as yours, so I'm thinking a %17 pulley and injectors and a tune
#12
So I've done a bit of searching and I still find my self lost as to what should be the next logical step to get more power out of my 2005 r53, so many people have told me so many options, the car currently has a DDM CAI, %15 sc pulley, colder plugs, and a borla cat back, what would be my next logical step, I looked into a flash tune for the Ecu but RMW told me they wouldn't do it unless I had a cam, which I am not looking to upgrade
I pretty much stopped with engine mods after I did all of the basics like you did, I'm concentrating on brakes and suspension mods now. I can't see spending thousands of dollars more just to squeeze out another 20-25hp. To me it's just not worth it...especially for a daily driver.
#13
R53 Upgrades
Good point, IQ. Extra HP doesn't work real well if you can't transfer it to the pavement and be able to stop, which is where suspension and brake upgrades come into play.
These performance upgrade and R53 guides might help. Please let us know if you have any questions:
http://new.minimania.com/Mini_Cooper..._for_your_Mini
http://new.minimania.com/MINI_Cooper...nd_Accessories
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
These performance upgrade and R53 guides might help. Please let us know if you have any questions:
http://new.minimania.com/Mini_Cooper..._for_your_Mini
http://new.minimania.com/MINI_Cooper...nd_Accessories
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
#14
#15
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
I run the stock bypass valve on my street car and on my race car.
The following users liked this post:
Here2Go (03-10-2023)
#16
I agree.....the reason I went with a DT bypass valve was because the spring in the stock BPV broke. The only real difference I noticed with the DT BPV was the boost comes in a little sooner, and I lost some mpg. If your stock one isn't broke ...don't mess with it.
The following users liked this post:
Here2Go (03-10-2023)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SuprCoop
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
42
08-23-2022 06:22 PM
Ngtphantom
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
11
07-22-2021 02:23 PM