R50/53 Did I break something? HELP
#27
When I turn ASC and the A/C off, the car runs great (albeit with the occasional ABS rattle). No CEL, but ASC and ABS lights are on.
I don't know where the ABS sensors are, and where they plug in. Are they the blue plastic cylinder that are ziptied to the subframe? Do they have to be ziptied a certain way? I remember clipping off the ziptie on the passenger side when I dropped the subframe for what I thought was a clearance issue. Ended up being unnecessary but I didn't re-ziptie it on.
Can't hear a sound when turning while driving at speed, only while stopped (suspension geometry needs to change a lot for there to be noticeable noise). Are there parts that might need grease? Very obviously contained to passenger-side suspension, nothing pump-related.
I don't know where the ABS sensors are, and where they plug in. Are they the blue plastic cylinder that are ziptied to the subframe? Do they have to be ziptied a certain way? I remember clipping off the ziptie on the passenger side when I dropped the subframe for what I thought was a clearance issue. Ended up being unnecessary but I didn't re-ziptie it on.
Can't hear a sound when turning while driving at speed, only while stopped (suspension geometry needs to change a lot for there to be noticeable noise). Are there parts that might need grease? Very obviously contained to passenger-side suspension, nothing pump-related.
What about the ASC off and A/C ON? Still have issues with A/C blowing warm?
I would focus your efforts on the passenger side since you recall messing with the ziptie.
Here is an example of the R53 wheel speed spensor
Plug in A:
Passenger:
Driver:
Plug in B:
TRY THIS LINK
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ressure-3.html
Pull off that right front wheel and locate the sensor. Your MINI was running well the other day and now it is having issues when the ASC is monitoring things. Locate the sensor wiring and make sure everything is plugged in, snug and out of the way.
Since you did not ziptie/secure it before, start on one end and follow the wiring from one connection (hub) to the other connection. If everything worked well at first and is NOW having issues, I am wondering if the wiring “got in the way” of the wheel, a suspension component or the crankshaft pulley and got clipped/damaged?
Secure the passenger side and see if that fixes your issue. If not, I would jump over to the driver side and perform the same exercise. If the wiring looks good, I would pull the sensor out of the hub and inspect it for damage. If fine, reinstall and carry on the crusade. Something will stand out to you.
#28
#29
#30
Sensor should only cost around $40-75ea for the front side I believe.
#31
#32
#33
#34
Okay, never mind. They literally plugged their scanner in and were like "yeah your passenger side wheel sensor is bad," and charged me $50. Apparently my work on the subframe all checks out, and it's probably a worn tie rod end that's giving me the weird steering feel.
They're also recommending replacing the entire A/C system because the compressor apparently is shot and probably blew chunks of metal through the system. If that is the case, where can I find a quality "AC Repair Kit" (that's what he told me to look up)?
They're also recommending replacing the entire A/C system because the compressor apparently is shot and probably blew chunks of metal through the system. If that is the case, where can I find a quality "AC Repair Kit" (that's what he told me to look up)?
#35
Okay, never mind. They literally plugged their scanner in and were like "yeah your passenger side wheel sensor is bad," and charged me $50. Apparently my work on the subframe all checks out, and it's probably a worn tie rod end that's giving me the weird steering feel.
They're also recommending replacing the entire A/C system because the compressor apparently is shot and probably blew chunks of metal through the system. If that is the case, where can I find a quality "AC Repair Kit" (that's what he told me to look up)?
They're also recommending replacing the entire A/C system because the compressor apparently is shot and probably blew chunks of metal through the system. If that is the case, where can I find a quality "AC Repair Kit" (that's what he told me to look up)?
A/C. I was afraid of that, but didn't want to say something as I am ignorant in the way of the A/C. Swapping compressors is easy, is it as simple as someone recharging it then?
How do you remove the chunks? RA has Denso/Delphi compressors that are running $285-340.
#36
You're looking at an A/C system flush, pressure test, etc. Won't be cheap, but probably won't take an arm and a leg. Add on a new/used compressor and... You're in AZ; you know how important A/C is. Bite the bullet and get it fixed right or you'll rue the day you bought the car and all of that work you did on it.
My tie rod outer ends were $56.72 (both) from AutohausAZ. That's a pretty cheap replacement, and not too difficult job to do - especially since you were just under there. Probably take you an hour.
My tie rod outer ends were $56.72 (both) from AutohausAZ. That's a pretty cheap replacement, and not too difficult job to do - especially since you were just under there. Probably take you an hour.
#37
Yeah, compressor replacement is straightforward. The evap core is in the dashboard though. And the condenser is immediately after the compressor, so its likely any bits that the compressor through are packing up the condenser. I just don't want to buy an Ebay kit and have it fail on me 200 miles down the road.
I'll pick up a wheel speed sensor this weekend, should get rid of my dashboard christmas tree!
I'll pick up a wheel speed sensor this weekend, should get rid of my dashboard christmas tree!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MidwayMountaineer
Stock Problems/Issues
13
06-27-2022 07:39 AM