Hey guys, first post for my first mini. Last week I got a 2004 MCS w/ 52k miles on it, completely stock. My first mod was the one ball exhaust and I'm pretty happy with it. Coming soon is the supercharger pulley swap and a DDM CAI and I figure since I'll be doing one pulley I should consider a crank pulley swap as well right?... But I have a couple questions regarding the mods.

With the ddm intake there is an option to buy a hose with it, is that hose necessary or beneficial?

I know I need a sc pulley tool but will I need the belt tensioner tool as well as a crank pulley tool?

I'm pretty sure I read the crank pulley is better when paired with the sc reduction pulley but what type of gain would I be able to expect?


My base plan for now would be to do these mods, then potentially injectors and a tune, and if the clutch starts to go anytime soon replace it and add a lightweight flywheel. I've considered headers and exhaust but I'm concerned about being too loud, as my previous civic si was obnoxiously loud.

Any constructive input would be appreciated.

 

1. Host doesn't matter. Just for looks.
2. You will need the tensioner tool.
3. You keep saying crank pulley without giving any more specifics than that. Do you mean an overdrive crank pulley? I wouldn't, especially not paired with a 17% S/C pulley. Tends to be too much boost for stock internals. Get an ATI super damper at 0%.
4. You don't need injectors until the stock 330cc can't keep up with air volume. With a CAI and S/C pulley, you will still be fine on stock injectors.

 

Enjoy your new Mini!

My pry bar works great for getting the belt off. But if you don't have one I guess buy the pulley tool. Everybody has their own comfort level with tools though .

+1 to what sevin said about the crank pulley. Just do the sc pulley. If your crank pulley isn't broken, Im with the if it isn't broken don't fix it crowd.

Headers and exhaust aren't going to do all that much so if you're happy with the sound as is, I would have that pretty far down the list.

The best mod I've done on my mostly stock Mini is the rear sway bar. You might want to add it to your list, pretty easy to do too.

 

I'd say a good set of slotted rotors and good pads, and flush the old brake fluid with fresh fluid, would be my suggestion for first mods.

 

Slotted rotors do nothing on the street, they just look cool. Doesn't mean you can't buy them, just don't expect performance benefits.

 

If you are modding a car to go faster, it's prolly safe to assume you will be driving faster as well. Better braking performance is always a good thing, and noticeable when you are driving more aggressively.

I think it's a safe assumption that they are increasing horsepower to drive faster. I can't think of one person that's increased horsepower to drive like it's a station wagon.

 

On this website, some racers have said they prefer just getting non slotted/drilled centrics. I've never had slotted or drilled so can't comment personally.

The comment on station wagons reminded me of a work friends Caddy. They make a bad *** wagon

 

You're missing my point. I agree with you, better braking is a must when increasing power. But slotted rotors are not going to give you better braking performance. Bigger pistons will, better pads will, better fluid might give you a better feel, but slotted/drilled rotors will just look pretty on the street.

 

I'm not missing your point. You keep saying on the street. So being able to stop on the street isn't as important as on a track? Braking creates a small amount of gas between the rotor and the pad, not enough to matter for regular gas getter driving but during hard braking the slots help expel this gas. On both mustangs and Rx7 that I have owned I've noticeably decreased brake fade on hard braking from just swapping to slotted rotors. Now I do only recommend slotted and not drilled for the street as when they heat up, if you splash water on them from say a puddle or something there's a small chance of cracking from one of the holes.

Yes from a complete stock setup, good fluid, good pads, and braided lines will make a huge difference alone. But every little bit ads to the whole. And if your gonna be buying new rotors anyhow why not get slotted. Even if 90 percent of the time you don't notice a difference. That 10 percent you will be thankful

 

Well okay there are exceptions to rules but you got my point lol. I wouldnt mind having a race car people hauler lol.

 

@Richie416, a lot of the info above is correct.
S/C pulley:
15% reduction if your planning on tracking the car.
17% reduction for the street.
Crank Pulley:
0%, do it for PM purposes more than anything
Brakes:
Completely depends on your driving habits, you'll have your choice of just pads, all the way to a BBK.
Extras:
Do a rear sway bar, 22mm solid or 25mm hollow.

Then think about the tune and injectors and a header and possibly a cam, if your one ball isn't too loud the header won't be that bad, but if you think you may do the header, do it before the tune and ask your tuner about injectors, without the header (and even with) the stock 330cc's should be fine. Header and Cam not really.
Tools:
Tensioner/Belt tool - You'll need something, but a pry bar can work.
S/C pulley tool - You'll need this
Crank Pulley tool - It's just a standard 3 position puller, with the correct bolts.

Depending on where you live and where you buy your posts from, some of our vendors will rent the tools.

 

I drive my car pretty hard and we have a lot of great curvy canyon and mountain roads where I live, but I've never even had a hint of brake fade on roads. I've cooked brakes on the track, but never on streets. I just run standard discs and I'm happy with them, even on the track.