I did an engine swap after losing piston 1 to connecting rod failure. I bought a new block and and a rebuilt head and put everything together pretty easily.

However, I missed the Starter-to-Alternator cable and shorted out my starter to ground when I connected the battery.

I correctly connected the cable, replaced with a new starter. When I turn the key, no sounds, no click, nothing. The lights and accessories come on, but the starter won't turn. I can jump the starter with a wire to the ignition side of the solenoid, but not with the key turned.

I'm sure I'm going to have to trace back wire to the ignition switch, but going to start with power at the solenoid. I know the battery post should be ~12V, does anyone know the solenoid ignition post voltage when the key is turned? And, what all is between the ignition switch and solenoid (like relays, fuses, links etc?)

Thanks everyone,
Chris
2004 Mini Cooper Base R50, W10 motor (84303 first engine miles, 0 new engine miles)

 

There is a relay for the starter circuit. Check it. The typical BMW grayish-green version (they are color coded). As a very quick test, you could swap the relays around in the underhood fuse block

 

Thanks, David. I'll check that tonight. I'm going to take the battery in today to have it checked as well, just in case so I'm not chasing rabbits.

 

All those voltages should be 12 V or higher. A healthy battery at rest is really more like 12.6V. If it's damaged or discharged below 12V (or maybe 11.5V), the car won't even try to crank. Maybe check that first. It is still enough juice to turn on the electronics, but the computer is trying to save you from yourself...

 

I had the battery checked at two shops in town, no problems noted there (12.7 volts at each). I've got 12.6 volts at the starter (battery lead). With the ignition turned, 0 volts on the solenoid. I pulled the steering column panel off and tested the ignition switch. Red wires are 12.6 volts constant. Purple wire is 12.6 volts at Accessory turn. Blue wire is 12.6 volts at Ignition turn.

I've also swapped the relays, but no luck at the starter.

So I've got 12.6 volts coming from the ignition switch. Where does it go from there? What's between the ignition switch and solenoid?

 

Looked in the Bentley manual wiring diagrams. It shows the signal going from the ignition switch (pin 8 black/blue) to the immobilizer and then to the starter solenoid (Black/yellow). On the immobilizer, pin 2 is ignition switch in, pin 1 is (black/yellow) wire to the solenoid. Doesn't show a relay at all.

 

Page ECL-7 of the Bentley says the Immobilizer (EWS) has a discrete starter diode (left footwell, behind trim). Never heard of that before. Would love to see a picture if you find it...

 

Wow... Great help. I'll be on the hunt for those as soon as I can!

 

OK...I couldn't leave it alone. I found the EWS in the fender panel, behind and above the fuse panel (I'll post a picture later).

I pulled the plug and jumpered pins 1 and 2 and turned the ignition...good crank, 12.5 volts to the solenoid. Of course, no comm to the computer with this pulled so no ignition coil, sensors or fuel injector support.

So, my issue appears to be the EWS system and/or computer (or combination of that system). I live about 150 miles from the nearest BMW or MINI dealer. I don't know where to begin to check this system out! I'm just glad to find this out so that I can look into it and this MINI back on the road where it belongs!

 

View is from driver seat with lower dash panel removed. The EWS immobilizer is the gray box with green writing on it.

Does the manual say what the relay on the left edge of the picture is for? It's probably not related, just curios?

 

There are several EWS specific fuses. Might as well check them.

Might have blown the EWS module. I have not worked on the EWS, but presumably it has to be programmed to the car, so a used one is probably not an option. Might want to ask around to see if anyone knows how to code/reprogram a used EWS.

 

I don't know which relay that is, but all those gray-green relays are interchangeable. Try switching 'em

 

Thanks for your help. Do you know if an EWS 3.3 and DME are interchangeable with an EWS4.3 and DME set?

 

I was wondering if I messed up the neutral safety switch and attempted to Google that. I found that the CVT model has a starter inhibit switch mounted on the transmission housing. Any wiring diagrams for that? Does the starter write from the Ews go through that on the way to the solenoid?

 

Those are all digital signals. The computer decided what the state is and if it will allow a start (same for clutch safety switch and low-voltage cut-out). Try leaving it open and then jumping the leads together - those are all your choices...

 

Did you check the block fuses under the engine bay?

 

We moved at the end of May and have had no time to get back to the MINI. After some tinkering, searching and thinking, I came across someone talking about their neutral safety switch, MINI calls it a Start Inhibitor on the CVT.

I purchase one from British company for a MG Rover after research showed they were compatible... In fact the one I pulled is identical as the new one. The MG Rover purchased part was about 1/3 the price! Both marked Volvo 481453!

It was fairly easy to get out... Removed the driver-side front wheel, then pulled out with a 22mm deep socket and a pan to catch the transmission fluid. Pictured is the part.

Thanks everyone for the thoughts... That little switch wasn't letting the ecm know the car was in Park or Neutral.

Chris

 

Where did you get the part? Which vendor, I mean - They're coming up close to $200 thru MINI and I broke the plastic shell while replacing the axles on my girlfriend's car. I've got it patched for now, but I'd feel better if it was replaced.

 

I ordered Part No.: UHB100170 from riimerbros in the UK. Even with the shipping it was much cheaper...1 1/2 years later and no problems! https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-UHB100170

 

Good info. Moving to the Stock Problems/Issues area.