I had a 2096. Turned out one of my spark plugs were loose. Tightened them all up, didn't even clear the code. Two days later light shut itself off.

Food for thought !

 

I just ordered this. Thanks for the heads up. I will also have to setup a VM. The mechanic was telling me that my spacer was hurting me because it was reading the o2 as more lean. So I am going to rip that off and see how the new o2 sensors do on their own...

 

Thanks for the idea, I will tighten those up on mine as well just in case!

 

Spark plugs are tight. They are a bit old but they work fine. The car passed an intake smoke test no leaks. The car idles perfect but it leans out at some point because the code gets thrown still. The mechanic is almost certain its a fuel issue. Going to try and get some 100 octane tomorrow and see if that works....

 

I smoked my intake and the exhaust and there was no leak close to the o2 and there was little leak where the PVC house goes in or atleast it looked like it. I guess keep us posted on the fuel problem if you find any. I still haven't got the Romanian software yet, but I'm hoping it just a matter of clearing the adaptive values and that it.

Is there a video on hw to use the tool or someone made a YouTube video or something?

 

I drove around a bit with the 100 octane (well its 1/2 tank 100 octane and a 1/4 tank of 93 with octane booster...) and the light hasn't budged. They are resetting the light today (adaptives). We will see if that holds.

 

Took it back to the mechanic today and he used a bmw/mini tool on it and he said he has never seen anything like this. Every time they clear the code it comes back instantly. Usually codes will clear for at least a couple minutes then come back on. He said it's as if it never goes off.

So basically my ECU is "****ed"? Until I can find a way to clear this code. He thinks everything else is in order...

I am not really sure how to proceed... So my summer car is going into hibernation during the summer D:

 

Octane does NOTHING to change the amount of oxygen left in the exhaust....
I see a failure to understand the issue here....

 

I will be as clear as I can. (I understand now that 100 octane was a complete waste of money).

I have 2 brand new o2 sensors,
The car idles in the perfect range for the exhaust,
the exhaust has no leaks,
the intake has no leaks,
the spark plugs are tight and in good working order.

if you clear the adaptives (using a bmw/mini tool) on the car the light comes back on before you even start the car. So I am at a loss for what to do at this point in time.

 

Most code readers CANNOT CLEAR many emissions codes....
SOME pro versions can...some cannot. It is a "hard" code....
Adaptations are were gets reset....it's changes the motor makes to run better related to both fuel trims (using the o2 data) , your driving style, and wear....
Me...I would take the manifold off...bet you have a bad gasket....
Or take a smoke stick with it running, fan off at the least too see if it gets sucked in....
To fx a problem hi have to turn a wrench or two...not just push buttons or try fuel additives....
I'm getting the feeling you and your mechanic are over your heads in understanding....pretty surprising....
It seems to be a half hearted attempt at fixing...but never really trying....
Maybe I'm missing something....

 

Yes...I would be frustrated too...you have an inspection due?

 

Yeah 3 months ago. I will try the to smoke the manifold, but my mechanic already smoke tested and cleared the intake.


So you are saying you cant clear a hard code ever? He has the BMW tool.... Even without turning the engine on the light comes back. I understand its a hard code etc.

 

I'm in the same boat. P2096 never goes away.

 

Well...take it easy with 100 octane fuel....
It is usually labeled "for off road use only" cause it often had lead in it...about one tank is all it takes...
It will poison the o2 sensors and cats....
Then yes....the fix will be 2 more sensors AND a new cat.....just so you can start troubleshooting it more...cause you will also get a cat efficiency code....

 

Don't be a negative Nancy.

Sunoco SS 100 is an unleaded high octane gasoline that is street-legal in California. Its 100 octane rating will allow increased boost levels in supercharged or turbocharged applications compared to premium pump gas. Sunoco SS 100 can be used in high performance vehicles both old and new. It can also be used in applications such as motorcycles, ATVs, karts, and other smaller engine vehicles.

Sunoco SS 100 will not harm catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. It does not contain metallic compounds. SS 100 contains a comprehensive additive package to minimize engine and fuel system deposits. It is compatible with two-stroke synthetic and mineral-based engine oils. As with any gasoline, it should be stored in opaque, tightly sealed containers and kept where temperatures are stable. Properly stored, the shelf life of SS 100 is in excess of 1 year.

 

Ok...just saying....we have 100 octane leaded pump gas sold for off-road use at our local Hafner's gas station chain in NH/MA...labeled as off road, with the lead warning. Folks sometimes forget to be careful what they buy for a street car. Yes...the pump does get a line an night when the local track is open...from the smell, I'm pretty sure it is 100LL av-gas...
Many folks that were not around during the era of leaded and unleaded fuel don't understand the issues ...so just pointing it out....heck unleaded road fuel predates me a bit...but it's still available around tracks.....

 

haha no problem just giving you a hard time because I can. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

 

I just got a Smoke machine from ebay coming in next week. I'm going to try Zip suggestion to see where there is a vacuum leak. The exhaust checks out 100%.

 

If the smoke machine works good, pleAse post some details about which one you picked. Good luck!

 

Funny memories. I remember my old man paying some sleazy mechanic to modify his unleaded-only filler neck so he could use the cheaper leaded fuel when it first came out...

 

Have you taken it to the dealership and had them update the ecu?

I really do find it hard to believe your computer is 'bad' yet the car runs perfect.

I do believe a few people have had success in 1) resetting adaptations and 2) getting the most recent updates flashed to the computer.

I've also found that the Bosch obd2 readers that oreilley's uses can clear all codes, including p2096, from the pcm.
Only reason I know this is from when I had the 2096 and had no idea my spark plugs were walking their way out. Went there once every week or so for about a month and cleared it out.

Where exactly does your mechanic hook the smoke machine up to?

There is a vacuum port on the passenger side of the intake manifold underneath the hot side of the supercharger horn. It would be ideal to use that port as it is directly on the intake manifold and feeds to the back side of the throttle body.

This will easily rule out:
1) that annoying oval green gasket
2) the metal gasket between the horn and SC
3) the throttle body gasket
4) the intake manifold gasket
5) any other vacuum lines


On most cars you can run a smoke test from the brake booster check valve by pulling the hose off and hooking the machine up.

On our car you'll notice it's a hard plastic line. It WILL break of you try and remove it from the check valve lol

On a side note, have you cleaned your map sensors? Done an induction clean with sea foam?

I'm asking a lot of questions but I'm trying to better understand what has been done in attempting diagnosis.

 

My brother in law is a mechanic and gave me this document. I have been treating it like a check list. I marked some things off w/ yellow that I have done. Some of the things that I have "done" I have really just ruled out...

 

Thats a good point. How could the ECU be bad if the car runs well. I have had the dealer reset adaptives, but they charge $100 each time. So I have only had them do it once or twice. I had another shop reset it recently and they did it for next to nothing and they are the ones that told me that the code comes back before the even start the engine. I will have to ask them where they hooked it up for the smoke test. They also told me they smoke tested it while the car was still warm, because they couldn't let it sit long enough (they need to do it while I am at work).

Maybe I will walk over on lunch and chat with them to see what exactly they did.

Thanks for the tips!

p.s. I just cleaned my intake filter Saturday - it was disgusting. I am now getting 4mpg more.... so it was pretty bad... maybe if I put some miles on now...?...

 

That screenshot is of Identifix. Totally useless piece of software unless you need specs and procedures. Even then, it's pretty much useless. Most regular shops use alldata, because it doesn't suck.

That list you're following is just an updated list of things other mechanics have done that "fix" the problem. The issue is the mechanic can update that regardless of whether or not he/she has the vehicle come back for the same issue.

As far as the code goes, I know it can be cleared via the Bosch code reader. The only reason I can see the code coming on BEFORE the engine is running is because the code was never successfully cleared.

I know you've had the dealership reset adaptations, but did they do any software updates at the time as well??

 

they claimed to have updated the software... but I might have to go back and see if they can do it again, or retry...

I bought that shady bmw software off ebay I am going to try and clear adaptiations with it tonight...