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Innovate finally release there new pressure/oil gauge (model 3918). Already placed my order hopefully it gets here before my next track day. I will be making a decision based on what i see while at the track.
The PWC car was pretty good for the first 2 or 3 laps then after that the tires are gone and his brakes was pulsing the whole time. either it wrapped or it was building up too much gases, It still stopped lol. The owner took me on a ride along and he was very confident in the car to the point where i wanted to get out having driven the car and knowing what the brakes felt like (got alittle scared lol).
Originally Posted by Eddie07S
Your car seems to be coming together well. It looks pretty flat and catching 1 g in the corners is good.
So finally got around to installing some more goodies.
OCC was connected today. I had it in there for several days just never got around to plug the hoses in and all. Also installed the battery still have some things to deal with since it has lots of room where the battery goes. Here are some picture
Battery size Comparison
Used my old coolant reservoir cap and a water bottle cap to fill in the gap. this is where i was thinking of using the Styrofoam to fill in the gaps. I checked today and it seems to be holding up pretty well.
Was thinking of using Styrofoam to fill the the gaps, what do you guys suggest NA or YA?
Innovate finally release there new pressure/oil gauge (model 3918). Already placed my order hopefully it gets here before my next track day. I will be making a decision based on what i see while at the track.
The important thing to keep the oil pressure from dropping is to make sure that it is always full. The dipsticks in these cars are not necessarily accurate. To check it, change the oil, filling it with the exact amount. Then start the engine, let it run, shut it off, let it sit for a few minutes. Then check the dipstick and observe the full point. When on the track check the level regularly. If it is down at all from that observed full point, add a bit to bring it back up to that level you observed, which may be something different than the full mark (my full level is above the full mark; go figure).
Say, does anyone know if there is an oversized oil pan for the MINI?
Best bet for the battery would be one of the mounts they sell for it. You can fill the gap with styrofoam, been done forever, I personally prefer a clean install. I got mine at the same place I bought the PC680, which is Aircraft Spruce (Oh Canada) and it was $54 CAD. There's a small lip at the bottom and top, so the battery doesn't move around. I added strips of rubber insulation on the delete plate itself and on the inside of the battery mount, just to avoid direct contact with metal and reduce the vibration.
I think I'm going to go with the styrofoam. Not ready to cut the battery tray out and seal it like you did, But your setup is clean. I would do the same if i was going to mount it flat or somewhere in the cabin.
Originally Posted by Da_Ghost
Best bet for the battery would be one of the mounts they sell for it. You can fill the gap with styrofoam, been done forever, I personally prefer a clean install. I got mine at the same place I bought the PC680, which is Aircraft Spruce (Oh Canada) and it was $54 CAD. There's a small lip at the bottom and top, so the battery doesn't move around. I added strips of rubber insulation on the delete plate itself and on the inside of the battery mount, just to avoid direct contact with metal and reduce the vibration.
Here is what i did. Cheap mounting system ever lol. $6 dollars for whole system. I was going to fill the whole cavity with this, but after making the middle section and seeing how the battery not going anywhere i just said forget it. Added the side pieces just in case someone wants to give me a hard time at track inspection on an HPDE day. Forgot to take a picture of the Solar battery tender. I put in the the rear moon roof section. Will update when i get a picture.
Originally Posted by Da_Ghost
I meant to use the battery mount to fix it in the factory box. You'd have to drill holes, so there's that.
However I think there is still some amount of rotation that will have to be handled. How about 4 gallon size food storage bags, put one in each open corner and fill each one with Great Stuff foam? That would full support the battery, would be easily removable and, most importantly, remains cost effective- that is, cheap
Don't know if that is a joke hahahah Sandwich bags lololololol Dude you made me laugh so much with this one.: lol:
The battery is not going anywhere. I purposely made the foam 1/4" taller, so the stock bracket can crush into foam and the foam and from itself around the battery and create an indentation in the foam. I added the side in the same manner, A little bit bigger so it tight. I can tell you this much not even 5gs of force will make that battery move lol. when i was tighting the bracket i thought i was going to explode the battery that how tight it got. I left it like this for about 2hr then took it off and the bracket had compressed the foam nicely and it was still tight. I just did the sides for any inspector at the track not to say anything.
I mean hell i only used 7.5"x7.5"x1" out of the 24"x24"x1" peace of Foam i got for $6. My original plan was to use 3x7.5"x7.5" and glue them together to make it 3" across the top, but when i saw how stiff it was with just one i said good enough for me.
Originally Posted by Eddie07S
I love it
However I think there is still some amount of rotation that will have to be handled. How about 4 gallon size food storage bags, put one in each open corner and fill each one with Great Stuff foam? That would full support the battery, would be easily removable and, most importantly, remains cost effective- that is, cheap
I was going to wait till next season/year to get seats/harness/steering wheel/roll cage, but after getting that experience in that PWC car, I just said F it and order the stuff. The only thing i didn't order was the Brackets and rails, since the seat i order has bottom mounts and I'm hoping it fits the stock rails/mount hole.
Ordered
OMP TRS-E XL Seats x2 (FIA Approved) (crossing my fingers i can use the Stock rails)
G-Force 6 point harness (FIA Approved)
NRG Gen 3 Quick release
NRG Steering wheel
OMP Steering wheel hub adapter (collapsible)
AutoPower 6 point Bolt In Roll Cage (which i will eventually welded in) (Was going to go for a hardness bar to save some $$, but the price was from $280-$700 which is crazy just for a bar going across the seats).
This pictures are still missing the Oil Temp/pressure cables as well as about 3 other cables trying to go thru the firewall.
Originally Posted by HaveATank
So since the car is down. I decided to get some stuff done. Made a bracket for my OCC and i purchased a used cold side supercharger horn to install the WMI nozzle and a source to get boost for the WMI.
Plan on making the Headlight washer tank the reservoir. What I'm still trying to wrap my head around is getting about 2" diameter of cables and hose into the cabin from the engine bay thru the firewall. I know some of the cables i can cut and splice them back together, but prefer not to do this. Any ideas? here is the list.
This is going to be a useless question, but hope some one has the answer. I looked under the steering wheel and there seems to be a big gourmet that has the red cable which i assume comes from the battery cable in the engine bay, but i can't see it from the engine bay or is not accessible. Push come to shove ill just drill a whole and figure out how to make a gourmet or where to purchase one from. But prefer not to do this so if anyone can help me out here.
Found other air bag in the pile of stuff the guy gave me when i purchased the car. Going to install it and see if this will make my air bag light go away.
Don't know if that is a joke hahahah Sandwich bags lololololol Dude you made me laugh so much with this one.: lol:
.
Dude
Are you laughin' at me?
Are
Youuuuuu
Laughin'
At
Me?
Well, I actually was serious. Do you know about Great Stuff foam? This stuff has about a 5 to 1 expansion ratio. Inside of a un-sealed plastic bag it would conform to the shape of the space that it is in, without sticking to it. Then it hardens to be much like the foam board you used. The advantage is that you would not have to cut to shape and glue pieces together.
The downside is that it would have doubled your costs.
At any rate, a little laughter is ok. The world could use a little more of it.
They make rubber grommets that fit various hole sizes. Some have a rubber diaphragm across the opening that you can cut holes in that you can pass wires through. If you cut a hole for each wire a little small it will seal against the wire.
If you can only find the open grommets, cut a 2" hole in the firewall, put the grommet in, pass the wires through and then seal it all up with some black silicone sealant.
are you happy with the megans? I'm building up an R53 for track use and they are on the short list
I might cheap out with some blistein b4 touring and camber plates, 200 $ for new b4's right now on rockauto they are like 10 % stiffer? Not sure I already drag all the time ont he roads around here I'm kinda scared of lowering this car, but if it makes a big diff on the track I'll just pony up for coilovers
So far so good. I was putting close to 1gs in the corners and the car still felt like it had more. Some people say stiff suspension with good springs will do a good job, but i have done it that way before and the sway is crazy.
What springs do you plan on using with the B4? I think the spring pay a bigger role.
Originally Posted by mega72
are you happy with the megans? I'm building up an R53 for track use and they are on the short list
I might cheap out with some blistein b4 touring and camber plates, 200 $ for new b4's right now on rockauto they are like 10 % stiffer? Not sure I already drag all the time ont he roads around here I'm kinda scared of lowering this car, but if it makes a big diff on the track I'll just pony up for coilovers
Goodies that have come in still waiting for others to come in. Too bad lots of them are going to come in on Friday, but ill be away on a business trip.
Harness and hardware
One Seat came in waiting for the other
Steering wheel/quick release, waiting on the MOMO crush steering wheel adapter.
So far so good. I was putting close to 1gs in the corners and the car still felt like it had more. Some people say stiff suspension with good springs will do a good job, but i have done it that way before and the sway is crazy.
What springs do you plan on using with the B4? I think the spring pay a bigger role.
I made a separate thread, I need to decide before end of the month. I dont want to do a crazy drop aka if it dont make the car handle better I dont want to do it.
LOL I did a similar thread myself when i was deciding. My decision was made for me when the Coilovers that came with car broke and i had a track day coming, so i just went with CO. The Mod Mini Guy (YouTube) uses the Megan Racing and Way from WMW suggested this to me as well.
I use 17" wheels with 215/45/17 and i don't have a crazy drop if you look at the car. I don't bottom out anywhere. I also went with a stock alignment to start and that is working for me as well. I went with 17 because i was told i had to since i have the R56 JCW, but after getting the 17 i think i maybe able to get away with 16" but i would need to try them on first, but for now I'm good with what i have.
Originally Posted by mega72
I made a separate thread, I need to decide before end of the month. I dont want to do a crazy drop aka if it dont make the car handle better I dont want to do it.
06-29-2016, 11:51 AM
