Replaced the lower steering shaft on my daughter's 04 MC today. Prod date is 11/2003. Here's some things I learned. Hope this helps someone.

IDed part # from RealOEM. Part #32306763722 was superseded by #32306870777. Pic below.




Ordered replacement shaft from ECSTuning. When I purchased it was $157.77 plus 8.93 shipping. Current site pic below.



Shaft did not come with new lower steering shaft eccentric bolt and pinch nut or upper shaft pinch bolt. Ordered all 3 from Pelican Parts: Self-Locking Nut #32-20-6-782-616-BOE, Eccentric Bolt #32-30-6-781-749-BOE, Torx Bolt for Steering Coupling Column Joint, M8 x 33mm #32-30-6-778-609-BOE. $13.75 plus 4.75 shipping.

Followed Bentley manual instructions, page 320-10, most of the time

Prior to removing the lower steering shaft I removed left front wheel. Then aligned steering wheel so that nut is facing left wheel. This allowed me to access bolt/nut from side without laying under car. (Don't forget to lock ignition.) Used 3/8 racket and extensions & removed nut, bolt slides out easily.
When you align nut facing left side, the open end of the lower shaft knuckle is on the top. When the manual says "pry universal joint off steering rack shaft" I thought it would be easier to first remove the upper bolt. I wasn't thinking there'd be room to pry the lower joint toward the steering wheel. Didn't realize that whole shaft compresses and expands. Also didn't realize the steering rack shaft has a raised dimple on it so you can't pry towards steering wheel. Better way for manual to specify would be to pry lower knuckle down and off.

For Steering Column lower cover removal, here's what inside of cover looks like. It might help you as attempt to "release retaining clips". The clips on mine were just plastic part of the cover. The plastic grips a plate under the shaft. Here's pic:


Steering shaft upper universal bolt came out easy. Pryed upper knuckle toward floorboard and off shaft easy. Then went outside and pryed lower knuckle off steering rack shaft. Whole assembly slid up through hole in floorboard. My lower shaft ujoint was toasted. This was causing binding when turning steering wheel left and right. It was also causing front end drift due to the amount of play in joint. Here's some pics of the old and new:




My steering wheel was the "newer" version not the "DSC and early steering column". So I didn't need the wavy washer or adapter ring that came with the shaft. Here's pic of my steering shaft:

New lower shaft went in easy. I decided to connect lower shaft to steering rack first. Slid knuckle from bottom up around shaft to clear the steering rack raised dimple. When manual says "push steering shaft up as far as it will go" they are talking about ensuring the steering rack shaft is seated in the knuckle and clears the raised dimple. Again, you'll have to flip the knuckle up and around to make this happen. You can't just slip it straight on from the steering wheel towards the ground. New bolt and nut went on easy. Torque to spec.
Aligned pinch bolt hole in upper shaft with dimple in upper steering shaft. I decided to reuse the pinch bolt as the new one was torx and the original was not and looked good still. Here's pic:

Removed old rubber ring which was still on car and worked new rubber ring/plastic down over boot in floorboard. The rubber ring seats around the boot.
Replaced lower steering cover, dash cowl. Replaced wheel. Test drive. All good. Steering feels great now. No binding, no drifting.

 

I'm pretty sure this is the part I had to replace when I thought it was my power steering pump.
What was it doing or not doing prior to install??

 

Two things: 1. When turning right or left and then loosening grip on steering wheel to allow wheel to come back to center after turn, the wheel would bind and not come back to center. 2. When driving straight front wheels would drift right and left. This was due to amount of play in lower shaft ujoint.

 

Very good information. I've seen this issue pop up more than a few times without many detailed threads that go into the repair. This will most certainly help out someone in the future. Thanks for sharing. Also, we have the repair kit and steering clumn HERE as well with free shipping for anyone else that encounters this issue.

 

Thanks for the order great write up. Spraying some PB blaster on the U joint will by some time, that's what I did before you have to replace.

 

Thanks ECS. I had sprayed it up pretty good about 6 months ago when the shaft was'nt available. Big relief to have done as daughter heads back to school soon.
My next project is front suspension. Will start separate thread when I do that.

 

Nice , you are welcome.

For the front suspension , here is a thread to get you started.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll-joints.html

 

Did you take the car somewhere with a quality scan tool and have the steering angle sensor zero'd after you did the job?

The only reason you had to remove the steering wheel and reinstall is due to the shaft only being produced in right hand drive now. You need to zero the SAS for the ASC/DSC.

 

Apologies if I wasn't clear nkfry. I didn't have to remove the steering wheel to replace the lower shaft. On the inside of car I only had to remove lower steering column cover to gain access to the bolt securing upper end of lower shaft to steering shaft. I locked ignition before any dismantling and did not move steering rack or wheels. New shaft was laid out mimicking old shaft. I didn't zero the SAS.

 

Thanks for the great advice. Steering on mine was binding on and off while turning. I was able to fix it thanks to this post.

 

PB blaster buys some time which it did one mine at the joint, but in the end its will bind more the need replaced.

 

I did something silly and jacked up the car during this repair. The wheels wound up moving and no longer were aligned with the steering wheel. If this happens to anyone else, check out http://www.georgeco.org/diy/mini-heavy-steering/ on how to fix it. Specifically, this part:

 

So after getting the steering shaft in, my steering wheel was driving down the road completely crooked. I wound up taking it out, and comparing it to the old one. Take a look, I think I might have been sent a RHD steering shaft.


Steering shaft old versus new. Take a look at the difference in angle!

 

It probably is because there are only RHD shafts available if it's new. MINI has a bulletin on how to install them on a LHD car. I can't find the bulletin, but check out this thread for more info, posts 3 and 8 in particular.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ks-in-usa.html

 

Sure enough...wow! Here is the technical service bulletin on it thanks to Way Motor Works Steering Repair.pdf

 

Do you need to remove the steering wheel to do this?

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32306763722/

Is the newest part that does not need the steering wheel adjustment. (not the RHD version swap to LHD) If you pop the bottom out first and slide it off and get the cover off under the steering wheel, you just need to undo that top clamping bolt and then slide it out.

 

Oh ok I thought I had to take off the steering wheel to replace the steering shaft.

 

I just replaced my steering shaft and when I took off the old one there was no wavy washer, so I guess I didn't need it for the new one. Also what is the torque spec for the upper bolt? I could not fit a socket in there and had to resort to using just a wrench and I stopped when it was hand tight.

 

Mini_Chan, Bentley manual tightening torque for "Lower steering shaft universal joint pinch bolt to upper steering shaft (M8 x 35mm, replace bolt and nut)": 30 Nm (22 ft-lb).
Manual also says wavy washer is not required in vehicles without DSC or with new steering column. Mine did not require the wavy washer either, if I remember correctly.

 

is that the same torque for the bolt under the steering wheel?

 

Hi, all. I recently replaced this lower steering shaft in my '04 MCS and now the steering wheel won't telescope. Any idea what I could have done wrong?
Thanks!

 

I know this is an older thread but the system wouldn't let me post a new one for some reason. Hopefully this will still get some views.

While doing some front end work with the subframe removed, I decided to replace my steering shaft due to play in the lower joint. This was a used shaft and I got rid of the play but now have all the other issues mentioned (steering return, notchy feel, and some binding) This led me to a couple of thoughts.

• Has anyone successfully replaced the u joint in the steering shaft?
• Does anyone know the name of the supplier that manufactured the shaft?

I have a spare on now and if I can source the joint, I plan on replacing it on both shafts and having a spare. I see listings for these at places like Napa but they are not in stock so I couldn't physically compare them. I feel only the lower would need replacement since it is exposed to everything.

In my experience, these parts are typically made by a handful of suppliers and if I can determine who that is, I plan on contacting them to see if the joints are available.

***Also, to the question above, my thought would be to lube the center of the shaft and work it back and forth a few times. Both of mine were difficult to pull by hand.

 

I would just get the whole thing, replaced them as a unit and the supplier does not sell into the aftermarket. You might be able to match up another U joint on its own from another supplier? I don't know anyone who has done this.

If a supplier sells anything in the aftersales, since we work direct with them and actually meet with the suppliers for MINI, I usually know if they are authorized to sell into the aftermarket.

Only options so far.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/32306870777/

 

100% recommends replacing they whole shaft. https://www.detroittuned.com/mini-co...ng-repair-kit/