R50/53 Spences Air Ride 06 JCW Bild Thread
#51
Stock ride height....measured and checked various times...and its very accurate...I have no problem with a pressure based system and its so fun.
I have messed with the psi slightly to add extra comfort at ride height.
I have messed with the psi slightly to add extra comfort at ride height.
#53
Well apologies for being on hold.....but my new line of work is quite demanding in the summer months I'm finding so....I've been a bit behind.
I'm also having trouble locating my cable for my nikkon to transfer my photos I took without the memory card in.
Wheels arrived...but they are fakes..
So I'm dealing with PayPal as I paid BBS money and the investigation will go where it goes.
They were also double drilled 4x100 5x100
While I know it is common...I still don't trust affixing my wheel with only two of four lug holes fully in tact.
I'm going to start the interior this week.
And my phase 2 is going to be put back until I perform supercharger work.
I've been on the ECS, WMW, and Pelican sites compiling the next round of modifications to get the car truly show ready. Some things include
Ecu piggyback
440cc injectors
Fuel rail
Ported manifold
Fresh new seals for any and everything
Engine bay bolt kit
New oem accessorys like ac pump,alternator,ps pump ect.
Aluminum overflow,and catch cans
2%crank pulley
Crank scraper
And more....
I just got my hands in the cam as well and its beautiful
The installation couldn't be any easier either so I'm hoping to have that,valve springs & support mods completed by the beginning of September
I'm also having trouble locating my cable for my nikkon to transfer my photos I took without the memory card in.
Wheels arrived...but they are fakes..
So I'm dealing with PayPal as I paid BBS money and the investigation will go where it goes.
They were also double drilled 4x100 5x100
While I know it is common...I still don't trust affixing my wheel with only two of four lug holes fully in tact.
I'm going to start the interior this week.
And my phase 2 is going to be put back until I perform supercharger work.
I've been on the ECS, WMW, and Pelican sites compiling the next round of modifications to get the car truly show ready. Some things include
Ecu piggyback
440cc injectors
Fuel rail
Ported manifold
Fresh new seals for any and everything
Engine bay bolt kit
New oem accessorys like ac pump,alternator,ps pump ect.
Aluminum overflow,and catch cans
2%crank pulley
Crank scraper
And more....
I just got my hands in the cam as well and its beautiful
The installation couldn't be any easier either so I'm hoping to have that,valve springs & support mods completed by the beginning of September
#54
We did have some MINI BBS R90 17" on clearance but they sold out. Nice list of item you have going. Good luck.
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#55
I do have my eye on something special I saw drilled and filled to a 4x100
So if I can get the deal I might be rockin some Borbets
Btw of all things listed ECS how much do you have in stock right now? You can PM if necessary.
I just figure while I have down time I might as well have boxes travel
#56
No problem, stock changes from day to day, if it stated " in stock" we have it otherwise most part are 2 days out. Just PM is you are looking for something in particular.
Thanks
Thanks
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#57
But first I must buy wine and pasta so I can sit my wife down and show her my cart
#59
Very good pasta and lots of Wine
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#60
Install pictures !!! Well most of them...
So first of all im sorry that I dont have more pictures but...I will have more when car is further torn apart in about two weeks (going to Beaches car show on wed with some new Dubs)
This install was very simple and brought up a very basic rule everyone should follow. Which is if you do something unfamiliar learn from the familiar. IF YOU READ THE DIRECTIONS IT SHOULD ONLY TAKE A MAX OF 10hrs.
First thing I did was my tensioner, stop, and belt. No sense in dumping all the money in suspension and wheels if you don't do basic maintenance. My tensioner actuator was leaking.. it had no stop..and it was just plain crusty. Here's a shot of the new one
So before I installed any struts it only made sense to do things since the struts are 100% bolt on.
1) plumbing
2) mounting box
So I decided to route the management system and air
I felt the best way for me to ensure no abuse on the 1/4 DOT line included would be to run everything inside. So I removed all kick panels on the driver side and began making my air line measurements. I started with the passenger front side as that was the furthest from the managements location I selected for my "rough" trunk layout. Since everything was in a general designation stage rather than final I always added 5" to the line length to be sure.
Here's some shots of the tucked line up front and the process I used for concealing everything while maintaining serviceability.
I have a dodgey net signal so this will continue on another post
So first of all im sorry that I dont have more pictures but...I will have more when car is further torn apart in about two weeks (going to Beaches car show on wed with some new Dubs)
This install was very simple and brought up a very basic rule everyone should follow. Which is if you do something unfamiliar learn from the familiar. IF YOU READ THE DIRECTIONS IT SHOULD ONLY TAKE A MAX OF 10hrs.
First thing I did was my tensioner, stop, and belt. No sense in dumping all the money in suspension and wheels if you don't do basic maintenance. My tensioner actuator was leaking.. it had no stop..and it was just plain crusty. Here's a shot of the new one
So before I installed any struts it only made sense to do things since the struts are 100% bolt on.
1) plumbing
2) mounting box
So I decided to route the management system and air
I felt the best way for me to ensure no abuse on the 1/4 DOT line included would be to run everything inside. So I removed all kick panels on the driver side and began making my air line measurements. I started with the passenger front side as that was the furthest from the managements location I selected for my "rough" trunk layout. Since everything was in a general designation stage rather than final I always added 5" to the line length to be sure.
Here's some shots of the tucked line up front and the process I used for concealing everything while maintaining serviceability.
I have a dodgey net signal so this will continue on another post
#61
Part 2
Next step was to do drivers side. It required no thought and was simple since both sides have gromets you can run the line to the struts location.
I used the factory firewall grommet to run the loom for management, both front air lines, and my new digital boost gauge loom.
Here are some shots
I know the first one has the strut but the daylight helped illuminate everything.
Next I ran everything by the door sil and under the kick panels
Next up part 3
Next step was to do drivers side. It required no thought and was simple since both sides have gromets you can run the line to the struts location.
I used the factory firewall grommet to run the loom for management, both front air lines, and my new digital boost gauge loom.
Here are some shots
I know the first one has the strut but the daylight helped illuminate everything.
Next I ran everything by the door sil and under the kick panels
Next up part 3
#62
Thanks for the pics , are those the illuminated JCW door sills ?
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#63
Part 3
First I will point out the two non tucked fuses located by the battery fuse panel. Reason... this is a dd and accessible common problems are a must. Those are for my key on and battery tap
Next I ran everything to the rear and installed my SMC water trap. For those unfamiliar with what a water trap is I will explain so when you look at the picture it'll make complete sense.
A water trap is needed to collect moisture created by the air compression process. The reason you don't want water in your digital manifold is simple... water ruins electronics. I typically run one water trap. The trap is placed in a remote mount area of your choice. You run one line from the air reserve tank to the trap then the other into your manifold. Depending on
trap design you might either have to drain it manually or run an external drain like mine.
After that I made a box to house the compressor, manifold, and tank with the help of my main man/ father in law. He upholstered and built the unit to be snug and conceal everything
Next up
The conclusion
First I will point out the two non tucked fuses located by the battery fuse panel. Reason... this is a dd and accessible common problems are a must. Those are for my key on and battery tap
Next I ran everything to the rear and installed my SMC water trap. For those unfamiliar with what a water trap is I will explain so when you look at the picture it'll make complete sense.
A water trap is needed to collect moisture created by the air compression process. The reason you don't want water in your digital manifold is simple... water ruins electronics. I typically run one water trap. The trap is placed in a remote mount area of your choice. You run one line from the air reserve tank to the trap then the other into your manifold. Depending on
trap design you might either have to drain it manually or run an external drain like mine.
After that I made a box to house the compressor, manifold, and tank with the help of my main man/ father in law. He upholstered and built the unit to be snug and conceal everything
Next up
The conclusion
#65
Alright the final!!! Of the install pics I have at the moment.
Now that the management was done I installed the struts
The front and rear are easy to install
It's just like a coilover with an air line that you need to route
The fronts I tucked the ss lines into the engine bay area by the abs and the driver strut tower grommet for brake lines
The rear I grommeted into a factory drain hole that leads to the trunk.
After I did a leak test I calibrated the system and since then...
No issues, no rubbing and a lovely stance!
Coming Soon
Pics with dubs and photos from Beaches Cruise Night at PIR in Portland.
Now that the management was done I installed the struts
The front and rear are easy to install
It's just like a coilover with an air line that you need to route
The fronts I tucked the ss lines into the engine bay area by the abs and the driver strut tower grommet for brake lines
The rear I grommeted into a factory drain hole that leads to the trunk.
After I did a leak test I calibrated the system and since then...
No issues, no rubbing and a lovely stance!
Coming Soon
Pics with dubs and photos from Beaches Cruise Night at PIR in Portland.
#66
Looking good, Spencer. Keep it up!
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#68
Looking forward to it. Let me know if you need anything.
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#69
Awesome, well done.
Part 3
First I will point out the two non tucked fuses located by the battery fuse panel. Reason... this is a dd and accessible common problems are a must. Those are for my key on and battery tap
Next I ran everything to the rear and installed my SMC water trap. For those unfamiliar with what a water trap is I will explain so when you look at the picture it'll make complete sense.
A water trap is needed to collect moisture created by the air compression process. The reason you don't want water in your digital manifold is simple... water ruins electronics. I typically run one water trap. The trap is placed in a remote mount area of your choice. You run one line from the air reserve tank to the trap then the other into your manifold. Depending on
trap design you might either have to drain it manually or run an external drain like mine.
After that I made a box to house the compressor, manifold, and tank with the help of my main man/ father in law. He upholstered and built the unit to be snug and conceal everything
Next up
The conclusion
First I will point out the two non tucked fuses located by the battery fuse panel. Reason... this is a dd and accessible common problems are a must. Those are for my key on and battery tap
Next I ran everything to the rear and installed my SMC water trap. For those unfamiliar with what a water trap is I will explain so when you look at the picture it'll make complete sense.
A water trap is needed to collect moisture created by the air compression process. The reason you don't want water in your digital manifold is simple... water ruins electronics. I typically run one water trap. The trap is placed in a remote mount area of your choice. You run one line from the air reserve tank to the trap then the other into your manifold. Depending on
trap design you might either have to drain it manually or run an external drain like mine.
After that I made a box to house the compressor, manifold, and tank with the help of my main man/ father in law. He upholstered and built the unit to be snug and conceal everything
Next up
The conclusion
__________________
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#70
So some bittersweet news today.
PayPal concluded their investigation and decided to refund me my money and since the seller can't be contacted I may keep the knock off wheels. I really wanted some RS wheels but this has opened up a new door for me so I'm content.
I found out from a good friend/rare wheel ***** that works for a local wheel distributor that the knock off wheels are safe to run. He explained in the 80's at his first shop they had two track cars and one set of wheels(the others had been in a collision by another driver) they drilled overlapping bolt patterns to fit both cars. He explained just how little the lug bolts/studs actually do if you run a metal hubcentric ring. He also has opened the door to his rare German and Italian multi piece wheel collection and offered to sell me a very select amount of pieces (purely out of empathy for my plight).
So I will get tires on the knock offs since he advised they are perfect for daily and I wouldn't ruin one of his sets and I now have aluminum hub rings.
ALSO IMPORTANT ADVISOR FOR AIRLIFT R53 FRONT STRUTS.
I've tested two sets of wheels both 17"
One on Falken Tires one on Federal both 205/ 50/ 17
IF YOU RUN THIS SIZE TIRE WITH THOSE STRUTS IT WILL RUB UNLESS YOU ADJUST THE THREADED BODY UP FROM FACTORY HEIGHT.
It's a very subtle wear but it will eventually disable your system or tire
More to come!
PayPal concluded their investigation and decided to refund me my money and since the seller can't be contacted I may keep the knock off wheels. I really wanted some RS wheels but this has opened up a new door for me so I'm content.
I found out from a good friend/rare wheel ***** that works for a local wheel distributor that the knock off wheels are safe to run. He explained in the 80's at his first shop they had two track cars and one set of wheels(the others had been in a collision by another driver) they drilled overlapping bolt patterns to fit both cars. He explained just how little the lug bolts/studs actually do if you run a metal hubcentric ring. He also has opened the door to his rare German and Italian multi piece wheel collection and offered to sell me a very select amount of pieces (purely out of empathy for my plight).
So I will get tires on the knock offs since he advised they are perfect for daily and I wouldn't ruin one of his sets and I now have aluminum hub rings.
ALSO IMPORTANT ADVISOR FOR AIRLIFT R53 FRONT STRUTS.
I've tested two sets of wheels both 17"
One on Falken Tires one on Federal both 205/ 50/ 17
IF YOU RUN THIS SIZE TIRE WITH THOSE STRUTS IT WILL RUB UNLESS YOU ADJUST THE THREADED BODY UP FROM FACTORY HEIGHT.
It's a very subtle wear but it will eventually disable your system or tire
More to come!
#71
Thanks ECS
currently working on box V2
It's made from heat form fitted plexi glass
It has a memory foam mounting base with brass inserts for all fasteners. Its upholstered in genuine Mini fabric I got from eBay ( man was selling just trunk section of carpet). The air line ports all come from the bottom and are grommeted and the lines and loom are all held by recessed fasteners. My father in law says I should advertise them for sale and I explained that one customer a decade isn't worth my time.
Just got my wife on board
That's cuz I made the pasta from scratch that night!
currently working on box V2
It's made from heat form fitted plexi glass
It has a memory foam mounting base with brass inserts for all fasteners. Its upholstered in genuine Mini fabric I got from eBay ( man was selling just trunk section of carpet). The air line ports all come from the bottom and are grommeted and the lines and loom are all held by recessed fasteners. My father in law says I should advertise them for sale and I explained that one customer a decade isn't worth my time.
Just got my wife on board
That's cuz I made the pasta from scratch that night!
#73
Fortunately he had the balance in there and I had the plus funds sign next to it.
I'm just waiting on the 3 day bank transfer bit. It should be in my account by Monday.
The collection looks good
I have my eye on a set of speedline Alessios, Lorinser wheel I'm not familiar with, some schnitz wheels and the borbet wheels I mentioned earlier so....It's going to be a tough choice
#75