Hi,


Just received my 'new' UK / Japan spec / RHD 2006 R50 Park Lane, 80k miles, 5 speed manual.


Driving along, everything seems normal but look over and speedometer is bouncing in big sweeping increments and the engine temperature is at full hot. Immediately pull over, turn car off and pop the hood. Everything looks fine in the engine bay, no signs of typical overheating, the fan is not even continuing to run with the engine off. OK, so maybe the fan isn't working and that is why the engine got hot?


Give it a few mins, start the car and right away the engine temperature is perfectly normal and no more bouncing speedometer. Drove it a couple more miles and everything seemed fine. Haven't driven it since.


I don't see how if the car was actually overheating; and at full warning temp, that it could cool to normal in a few minutes of engine being off and fan not on. I have the feeling it was a false reading and no idea what was going on with the speedometer.


My best guess is low battery or something causing gremlins in the electrical? Any other ideas?


Other issues I have to address:


Leaking power steering fluid (hopefully just the connection as pump / wheel turns well)
Oil pan gasket / crank position sensor leaks
Dreaded 3 lights - Need to replace (ABS)/wheel speed sensor which will hopefully sort it out
Clicking sound in the steering wheel column sometimes while parking(hopefully just a little grease needed on the bearing in there)


Sure there is more to figure out - looks like a full project car for sure but driving it sure is fun!

 

bttt

 

No ideas? Couldn't find anything on this searching Google etc. Has to be electrical related.

 

Wow, guess I will have to try and take a video, wonder if I am the first with this issue, lucky me

 

My cluster did this once. No codes. I disconnected the battery for 30 min to clear and reset the ecu. Never had it since. This was 3 years ago. It did freak me out. I thought my car was dead.

 

Did you get the full high reading on the engine temperature gauge as well?

 

You are not the only one that is having this issue. There are times that the gauges are working fine and then they all freak out for a few moments and then back to normal....

 

Cheers for the reply. Cleaned the battery terminals, took on a fairly long drive, no issues but something tells me it will return.

 

Well, the gremlins are back! Noticed the AC blew warmer but I am not convinced it is because the car was over-heating, I think it's just because the temperature gauge is freaking out (along with speedometer, handbrake light, etc.) and because the temp. gauge is reading high it automatically shuts down the AC cooling - makes sense? So although car is not hot, because gauge is showing hot AC cuts.


This is really annoying and nerve racking - loose wire? bad ecu? thoughts?

 

You could have a bad ground connection.

 

Thank you for your reply. Where are all the grounding areas and connections I should check? Obviously battery terminal (which I have cleaned, tightened, etc.), where else should I check? Is there a way to test for poor ground connection?

 

bttt

 

Got the computer fault codes read. This may help diagnose the wacky readings. BUS code faults etc.


I know replacing left, front, wheel speed sensor should clear those codes but the communications errors are interesting.


Any ideas?


Any other big red flags or issues based on the fault codes?


Thank you.

 

Hi, still looking for help with this. My rpm gauge (whole gauge) went dead for a few mins a couple of times as well (at this point the speedometer was working still) and then came back on like everything was fine. This whole thing is so strange.

 

Talking to myself here : - )


Further reading and searching has me thinking it could be a problem with the BC1 - Body Control Unit. Going to try and have a look at it in the next few days and see if I notice any signs of water, corrosion etc. as this has caused problems with other cars.

 

I would start by resetting your ECM connector. Do a really good inspection of under the bonnet, check they ECM connector and wire loom leading to it. Look for signs of rodent nibbling on wiring, loose connections, signs of obvious under bonnet cleaning (this sometimes is where connectors were unplugged then improperly plugged in again. or due to chemical or power washing has caused issues with the electronics)

If you can clear the codes do that and then drive it and allow it to generate new codes so you know you are working with only the newest of issues and not a list of historic problems.

You are facing the Technology Terror... Some of the most time consuming diagnostic work to come.

Best of luck.

Motor on!

 

Thank you for your reply. What's the best code scanner out there for a 2006 R50? I see BAV Auto has one and Peake makes one as well. They both claim to read 100% of the codes for my car, not just the generic ones. Truth? Any other suggestions for code reading? Thanks.

 

Do you have a sunroof? The drain tubes have been know to come apart and leak which causes issues with the BCM and or Footwell Module.

 

No sunroof thank god, hate everything about sunroofs. Hole in a roof, seriously, not if, but when they will eventually leak.


So need to check the BCM driver's side and there is another module in passenger footwell?

 

Ordered the Bavarian Technic's Enthusiast Package Scanner today so hopefully will be able to read ALL codes on my 330i e90 and R50. Really hope this thing can read all codes on the Mini, including shadow codes etc.

 

OK, removed the ECU wire adapters in the engine bay and they were squeaky clean, dry and looked brand new, seal on adapter is obviously working well. Then removed the covering and took a look at the Body Control (BC1) ECU inside the car. I don't have a sunroof and my car is a 2006 so some of the leak issues were meant to be sorted. Under my carpet in footwell, area around the BC1 all seemed to be bone dry and no sign of there any water ever have been in there (we had rain the last few days). The top of the BC1 has the cover on it protecting the wire adapters. Didn't remove the BC1 to inspect further but from what I can tell the whole area looks bone dry and I am pretty confident water in the BC1 is not the problem.


Back to square one - next step is to wait for my scanner to arrive, clear the codes and see what new codes pop up in regards to CAN BUS etc. Probably end up checking connections in the back of both main gauges (mid and on top of steering wheel). I am skeptical that these connections or gauges are the problem because I think it would be odd that both are doing thing strange things and at different times, sometimes same time unless a wire(s) connecting them directly together is the problem.


Tricky stuff and welcome to any ideas or suggestions. Thank you for your time.

 

How old is your battery? Old/weak batteries can cause all sorts of issues in the newer 2nd generation MINIs. Not sure about the 1st gen (which you have). If your battery is 4 years or older, I'd change it, even if it checks out "good".

 

Battery checks out as great and just did a full charge on my smart charger and still issues with gauges. I will keep this in mind and potentially change the battery out at some point. Thank you for message.

 

I bought the Bavarian Technic package and I am VERY impressed with its abilities. It should be able to read and reset all your codes. Every so often I get a P2097 code which is very finicky to reset and that code reader resets it without fail.

Al

 

Awesome, thank you for your feedback. You have the professional or enthusiast? If just the enthusiast do you know if it has the ability to change C to F, KPH to MPH, K/L to MPG, etc.?