bttt

 

OK, so received my Bavarian Technic Enthusiast, works well from what I can tell so far.


Please see attached codes which looks like it relates to my weird instrument cluster activity.


Can anyone decipher further? Looks like I may have a bad ground, any ideas how to go about checking the grounds? Does the fault code give any indication of what ground point? Any other ideas after looking at these codes.


All other areas of fault codes showed a clean bill of health.....for now : - )


Thanks!

 

Bttt

 

Think I may need to try and better ground from battery terminal direct to a good grounding point on the car. Thoughts?

 

I would check to makes sure the connections are clean and tight.

 

I have checked the battery terminals, cleaned them, greased them, made sure battery was fully charged, etc. on several occasions. Need to find all the ground points and address them now. I have been searching for a diagram / pictures of the actual grounding points for the car. I have seen the points written but nothing like a picture to really know where to get to them etc. Anyone out there have a link to pictures of all the grounding points?


Thanks.

 

Like I said earlier in this thread that I was having the exact same problems and I am in the process of checking my ground locations and electrical connections everywhere. This is driving me insane trying to find the problem. I did have a mechanic friend look into what he could find out about this issue and he found that replacing the ignition switch resolved the problem. Still looking into that and I will report back if I find anything. Sorry.... but I am glad that i am not the only one with this issue.

 

I did not mention. My mini is a 2006 R53 6 speed Manual with sunroof

 

Thank you for the reply. Great to know I am not alone.


Just checked all the main grounds in the car and they look great, zero corrosion issues, all tight, etc.


This ignition thing sounds interesting, I will hold-off from trying anything else until you check this ignition solution out


Is the 'switch' the actual whole ignition or some little electrical part outside the ignition? Changing the ignition for me would be a nightmare.....UK/JPN spec car now home in the Caribbean LOL.


Also glad I am not the only one.

 

Hey MiniBarr,


Any progress from your end? Checked a few more grounds but so far no resolution.

 

Seems like it's happening less frequently now. Electrical gremlins.....how frustrating when no solution in sight.

 

Symptoms:

r53
No sunroof.
No water damage ( that I can find )
69k on odometer.

Had a local, MINI only shop finish a diff/clutch install. As soon as the car was picked up, I had tach and speedo issues ( speedo simply has a line across the LCD where milage is read (THAT IS ALL) overall 99% functional)

My tach has now stopped working completely...
At first it was the small LCD screen within the tach and now it's the entire unit...

Power is still getting to tach since the red illumination still is active, but no RPM change or anything else.

Things I've done:
1)BCU inspection

I've inspected block "d" (large blue 54 pin connector) on the body control unit... specifically looking at pin 28 "kbus to cluster" and pin 30 "power to x15". No corrosion at all. - this would dictate an issue with BC to cluster issue overall.

2)Fuses/X15 inspection
I inspected all fuses in driver footwell. Also examined black connector x15 under the driver side panel. No issues. - This powers the OBD, TACH and some other items...

3)Tachometer inspection
I've disconnected the 6 pin green connector under the tachometer on the steering wheel. - was hoping for it to magically come back on when i plugged it back in.

Things left to do:

Swap tachometer with some one local. ( found some one, doing it tonight )

Take speedo out of dash and inspect connector from tach to speedo to kbus.
I believe that there is a Qseries of connectors/pins that dictate info sent to and from Tach.

Am I missing anything?

After reading this thread, I might start searching for a bad ground, but I doubt its that.

No other issues.

 

This sounds pretty similar (if not exactly the same) as the same problem the old Neon's had. The soldering in the tach might have gone a-miss and somehow managed to overheat itself. You could take it off and re-solder it or look for cracked/melted points. Ground could have also dislodged somewhere. I'd check everywhere before blowing cash on something else but that's just me.

Should be fairly easy.

 

I swapped tachometers with a local owner... fixed the issue. I believe that there is an internal issue with my tach, and as the poster above me points out, it's probably a soldering that has gone array.

 

Sorry for the delay in reply.. I work too much. I heard about if the battery was weak under load it would possibly cause an issue so I checked my battery and it was good until I put it under a load and it dropped down to the beginning of the weak stage of the tester that I borrowed so I went ahead and purchased a new battery... no problems for a week and then it reappeared. Doh! I ordered a new ignition switch and it is due in next week. I will let you know if that does anything.


Later

 

Great, thank you, looking forward to the ignition swap update. Is the ignition switch the whole unit that the key goes in to?


Cheers.

 

No it is not. It was about $77 for the part and it was easy to replace.. just need a really narrow screw driver to loosen the two screws to pull out the old one. After the replacement I did not have the dancing gauges on the dash anymore but my tachometer was still acting up and I took the gamble and found a used tach for $55 and installed it. It has been a week or so with quite a bit of driving and not one issue. If I have any more issues I will let you know. Best of luck to you on getting yours fixed. Hopefully this will work for you too!

 

Hi MiniBarr,


Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. Any chance of the part# or link for the $77 part and any ideas on where I can go about finding a used Tach, website?


Also, if any of the issues pop again (I truly hope you have solved it) can you please take the time to post in here again as it will probably be a few weeks before I can try your solution so it would save me replacing something that may not be needed.


Thank you again.


Cheers,
Ray

 

Ray


I purchased the ignition switch from from a Mini dealer that was online because I don't have a dealer close to me. The Tach I found was on Craiglist.


Part #61326913965 Ignition switch $77.23


Good Luck


Dave

 

Thank you.

 

R53
2006
6 spd
Sunroof
155K

Same issues with tach intermittently going out, but backlighting stays op. That's been going on for a while.. And I think it's a separate issue.

Couple days ago my speedo wigged out and my engine temp gauge gave sporadic false readings. Plus MIL lights flashing on and off and no specific rythym.

Codes in ECM for lack of comm with ABS/DSC.. Connector and harness look fine. I'll post anything I find.. No reoccurrence since 3 days ago..

 

Tach/Auxillary Cluster was faulty.. intermittently disrupting CAN communication for all modules connected.

Symptoms:
First my tach/auxillary cluster on my steering column would appear to turn off while driving, or when sitting parked.. But the backlighting would still work. I didn't have the time to fix it so I let it do it's thing while I ignored it. Then a few weeks later I was driving and started having a whole new batch of symptoms --> ABS light, Check Eng Light, Tire Pressure Light, Eng Temp gauge fluctuating to max, A/C compressor disengage, Cruise disengage, Tach fluctuation, Speedometer needle fluctuation.

Scanned with my Snap-On Solus:
DME
P1613- Serial Communication with ASC
P1607- CAN status
ABS/ASC/DSC
5E14- CAN: Connection with Engine ECU Failed
5E16- CAN Instrumentation
5E1E- Steering Angle Sensor CAN
5E18- CAN: Data Error from Engine ECU
5E11- CAN: Control Module
INSTRUMENT PANEL (KOMBI)
60- CAN Bus, Bus Offline
61- CAN: No Signal
67- CAN: Timeout KOMBI
62- CAN: ABS/ASC Signal


Solution: While car was "acting up" I left the scanner connected and disconnected the tach/auxillary cluster. All the current CAN codes left, and the car functioned like it should. Reconnect the tach, and the CAN issues come right back. I'm driving tach-less right now with no issues.

Your Solution: Likely to be the same component, but other modules connected to CAN, can cause the same problems..